Mixer taps

Bit more here and gen maintenance tips .

...the the hot waters all electric like iam saying on bigger engined boats they don’t do engine cooling circuit heating .
No one on here has disputed that on larger boats the hot water is usually heated electrically, not from the engine jacket water. That's how my new SanLoz is set up for example.

Ref your video, as ever take care when thinking stuff on the internet is true. That guy was a mechanic not an engineer.

He was incorrect at 2.57 where he said removing crud from a heating element increases efficiency through shorter "on time" of the heating element - that just isn't correct and the efficiency is unchanged.

He was also incorrect at 3.54 in saying his pump #2 allowed guests to continue having hot water in their showers if pump #1 failed. There would be hot water in the bathroom if both pumps were not running, only it would arrive after a 5 second delay rather than instantly. That's all those pumps do - they provide instant hot water rather than 5 seconds delayed hot water. That back up pump installation, subcontracted out, was a waste of €4k of his owner's money. Sanlorenzo built that boat in the video correctly with one pump, and my Sanlorenzo is specced deliberately with one pump.
 
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I removed the thermostat and tested the continuity with a multi meter and I think it is dead
Ok.now you can just connect together the two wires from the thermostat..Switch off power supply first!! ....and this will prove the thermostat..But dont leave it unattended and dont use it like this...its for test only!!
If it doesn't get hot then you have something else that is faulty. Only do what you feel you are capable of or get an electrician.
 
My calorifier is Quick (Italian) it is heated from the engine or by 230v.
It seems the problem is electrical and I will take another look tomorrow. Just had a cold shower
As your water is also heated by the engine, another test would be to run the engine and see if the water gets hot. If it does, it points to the AC heating being faulty, if not, it's something else.
 
Just to put this thread to bed... I did a continuity test on the element and thermostat without removing them from the tank. The thermostat failed and I replaced it (nearly €50 😱)...now I have piping hot water...until the next thing goes wrong🤔😳
 
Just to put this thread to bed... I did a continuity test on the element and thermostat without removing them from the tank. The thermostat failed and I replaced it (nearly €50 😱)...now I have piping hot water...until the next thing goes wrong🤔😳
That continuity test worked but it would probably have been better to test the supply using the 220v/240v - at each point in the circuit.
Setting your multimeter to an AC voltage greater than 220v.
For example between the live and ground or neutral as it goes into the thermostat and then between live and neutral or ground as it comes out.
And then again as it goes to the live side of the immersion heater.
Testing that would eliminate other supply problems.
I would have done that days ago.
 
That continuity test worked but it would probably have been better to test the supply using the 220v/240v - at each point in the circuit.
Setting your multimeter to an AC voltage greater than 220v.
For example between the live and ground or neutral as it goes into the thermostat and then between live and neutral or ground as it comes out.
And then again as it goes to the live side of the immersion heater.
Testing that would eliminate other supply problems.
I would have done that days ago.
Because the power didn’t trip...I reasoned that it wasn’t a problem.
 
Because the power didn’t trip...I reasoned that it wasn’t a problem.
The trip only lets go under certain circumstances. It will not trip if the stat is faulty, the element has failed (providing it hasn't shorted to live or neutral, or there is a break in the wiring anywhere between the consumer unit and the calorifier. Hurricane is correct.
 
But testing for the 220/240v would confirm that there wasn't a problem with the trips - or anything else.
Testing like I said goes straight to the point and you work back from there.
I appreciate that...and maybe I got lucky. As an amateur electrician I just use detective work and logic to find faults...I am not so good at diagnostic equipment or theory
 
The trip only lets go under certain circumstances. It will not trip if the stat is faulty, the element has failed (providing it hasn't shorted to live or neutral, or there is a break in the wiring anywhere between the consumer unit and the calorifier. Hurricane is correct.
Hurricane is seldom wrong.....if ever. But I have (for now) fixed it😃
 
Fault finding is a funny thing.

This example excepted.
Fault finding is usually a matter of getting something to work and then working back into the problem thus eliminating equipment/systems on the way.
This is particularly the case with software - start with something that works and gradually work back to your problem.
 
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