Bouba
Well-Known Member
Ok something wrong with my photo hosting site
It's the forum.Ok something wrong with my photo hosting site
No one on here has disputed that on larger boats the hot water is usually heated electrically, not from the engine jacket water. That's how my new SanLoz is set up for example.Bit more here and gen maintenance tips .
...the the hot waters all electric like iam saying on bigger engined boats they don’t do engine cooling circuit heating .
Ok.now you can just connect together the two wires from the thermostat..Switch off power supply first!! ....and this will prove the thermostat..But dont leave it unattended and dont use it like this...its for test only!!I removed the thermostat and tested the continuity with a multi meter and I think it is dead
As your water is also heated by the engine, another test would be to run the engine and see if the water gets hot. If it does, it points to the AC heating being faulty, if not, it's something else.My calorifier is Quick (Italian) it is heated from the engine or by 230v.
It seems the problem is electrical and I will take another look tomorrow. Just had a cold shower
That continuity test worked but it would probably have been better to test the supply using the 220v/240v - at each point in the circuit.Just to put this thread to bed... I did a continuity test on the element and thermostat without removing them from the tank. The thermostat failed and I replaced it (nearly €50)...now I have piping hot water...until the next thing goes wrong
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I replaced it....the reset button is supposed to pop up...and it didn’t on my old oneare you sure you reset it
Because the power didn’t trip...I reasoned that it wasn’t a problem.That continuity test worked but it would probably have been better to test the supply using the 220v/240v - at each point in the circuit.
Setting your multimeter to an AC voltage greater than 220v.
For example between the live and ground or neutral as it goes into the thermostat and then between live and neutral or ground as it comes out.
And then again as it goes to the live side of the immersion heater.
Testing that would eliminate other supply problems.
I would have done that days ago.
Can you now please shower ,I can smell dizzel.Because the power didn’t trip...I reasoned that it wasn’t a problem.
But testing for the 220/240v would confirm that there wasn't a problem with the trips - or anything else.Because the power didn’t trip...I reasoned that it wasn’t a problem.
The trip only lets go under certain circumstances. It will not trip if the stat is faulty, the element has failed (providing it hasn't shorted to live or neutral, or there is a break in the wiring anywhere between the consumer unit and the calorifier. Hurricane is correct.Because the power didn’t trip...I reasoned that it wasn’t a problem.
I appreciate that...and maybe I got lucky. As an amateur electrician I just use detective work and logic to find faults...I am not so good at diagnostic equipment or theoryBut testing for the 220/240v would confirm that there wasn't a problem with the trips - or anything else.
Testing like I said goes straight to the point and you work back from there.
Hurricane is seldom wrong.....if ever. But I have (for now) fixed itThe trip only lets go under certain circumstances. It will not trip if the stat is faulty, the element has failed (providing it hasn't shorted to live or neutral, or there is a break in the wiring anywhere between the consumer unit and the calorifier. Hurricane is correct.