RIN
Well-Known Member
Terrific as ever Vas. You must be getting a huge sense of achievement from what you have accomplished. Most of us here are just in awe of the project
MiToS re-built/fit- versilcraft Mystery43
- Thread starter vas
- Start date
Bouba
Well-Known Member
The fit and finish of your work is way more than I would expect out of a professional trimmer. A true masterclass
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
vas, I dont know how you have the energy to keep going with this project. My admiration for your fortitude grows with every update
rafiki_
Well-Known Member
Fantastic work as ever Vas. Hard top fab coming along nicely. If you can get MitoS over to Lefkas in Sept, we can share a bottle of ouzo ��.
Lloydroberts
Well-Known Member
Patience of a saint, skill of a craftsman.
Very, very impressive.
Very, very impressive.
vas
Well-Known Member
thank you gents,
too bloody hot to work, so stayed at home and prepared another update.
Had to finish off the galley and surrounding area and mainly the storage space which was underutilised. So removed the oven (a chance to find out why it wasn't working...) upholstered the whole are in front of it and under the dash panel all the way to the front under the windshield.
Then I added the "lid" to that opening there using some fancy and quite expensive blum mechanisms that were a pig to setup they way I wanted. They were meant to be for vertical hanging cabinet fascias opening by pulling and lifting up. I used them flat, opening them up and outside clearing the dash horizontal panel and not fouling on the oven cabinet... Worked in the end but must have lost a dozen litres of sweat in the process!
finished article filled up with pans, chopping boards, et al. Note on the port side the slanted side panel didn't allow me to fit the mechanism, so had to built a new L shaped panel, upholster it and bolt it down in order to support the mechanism:
Hidden behind the oven is a double socket for the La Pavoni which should be standing on top of the oven and pulled down to the worktop when in use.
Further, George did a 12mm iroko worktop with tongue and groove diy joints. Relatively easy job to fit, again 5-6 coats of oil and fitting. Haven't secured it yet, need an upside down L shaped piece on the front to hold it down and avoid warping under the extreme heat of the galley.
Still missing a deep drawer in under the dash where the iroko worktop ends and a cabinet door where the old school lifejackets live (temporarily). I want to have plates, glasses and stuff like that in there so got to find decent layout to keep them all apart and from rattling/braking.
Problem is that the drawer I want to built is impossible to hang and have sliding mechanisms for, as all mechanisms expect some space to the sides and or under the drawer when pulled out. I have none unless I do the trick of reducing the width of the drawer and keep a wider fascia panel in front. We shall see.
Another project completed was the table top for the original ali framed table. I think I've overdone it here, plinth is 30mm thick with a 12mm ply lined with a 12mm iroko on top and 8mm iroko leftovers underneath, all epoxied and pressed together. Plan was to make sure the thing wont warp as it often happens when you line something on one side...
In between the layers I added the consealed 8mm nuts for the studs that bolt it on the frame:
End result after 6-7coats of a decent quality oil is rather good:
A comment from a friend is that I didn't built side extensions to increase the table width. Indeed didn't like the idea, may do a snap-on piece in the winter although it's good enough for a few of us eating. Not too bothered now.
Hard top work is progressing well. All pieces for the panel frame is in the workshop, test fitting tomorrow and starting welding. Planning to fit early next week. Probably post in the w/e on that alone.
cheers
V.
too bloody hot to work, so stayed at home and prepared another update.
Had to finish off the galley and surrounding area and mainly the storage space which was underutilised. So removed the oven (a chance to find out why it wasn't working...) upholstered the whole are in front of it and under the dash panel all the way to the front under the windshield.
Then I added the "lid" to that opening there using some fancy and quite expensive blum mechanisms that were a pig to setup they way I wanted. They were meant to be for vertical hanging cabinet fascias opening by pulling and lifting up. I used them flat, opening them up and outside clearing the dash horizontal panel and not fouling on the oven cabinet... Worked in the end but must have lost a dozen litres of sweat in the process!
finished article filled up with pans, chopping boards, et al. Note on the port side the slanted side panel didn't allow me to fit the mechanism, so had to built a new L shaped panel, upholster it and bolt it down in order to support the mechanism:
Hidden behind the oven is a double socket for the La Pavoni which should be standing on top of the oven and pulled down to the worktop when in use.
Further, George did a 12mm iroko worktop with tongue and groove diy joints. Relatively easy job to fit, again 5-6 coats of oil and fitting. Haven't secured it yet, need an upside down L shaped piece on the front to hold it down and avoid warping under the extreme heat of the galley.
Still missing a deep drawer in under the dash where the iroko worktop ends and a cabinet door where the old school lifejackets live (temporarily). I want to have plates, glasses and stuff like that in there so got to find decent layout to keep them all apart and from rattling/braking.
Problem is that the drawer I want to built is impossible to hang and have sliding mechanisms for, as all mechanisms expect some space to the sides and or under the drawer when pulled out. I have none unless I do the trick of reducing the width of the drawer and keep a wider fascia panel in front. We shall see.
Another project completed was the table top for the original ali framed table. I think I've overdone it here, plinth is 30mm thick with a 12mm ply lined with a 12mm iroko on top and 8mm iroko leftovers underneath, all epoxied and pressed together. Plan was to make sure the thing wont warp as it often happens when you line something on one side...
In between the layers I added the consealed 8mm nuts for the studs that bolt it on the frame:
End result after 6-7coats of a decent quality oil is rather good:
A comment from a friend is that I didn't built side extensions to increase the table width. Indeed didn't like the idea, may do a snap-on piece in the winter although it's good enough for a few of us eating. Not too bothered now.
Hard top work is progressing well. All pieces for the panel frame is in the workshop, test fitting tomorrow and starting welding. Planning to fit early next week. Probably post in the w/e on that alone.
cheers
V.
rafiki_
Well-Known Member
Some lovely woodwork Vas.
Scolly
Well-Known Member
Personally I think we should club together and purchase a 50/60 foot basket case and give it to Vas and waynes world to refit. Would be the re-build thread of the century
vas
Well-Known Member
nah, you got to get two totalled ones (of preferably the same brand and model...) get say the bow one to W in the UK, and the stern to me down here, we do our bit and then meet somewhere and glue them together
well, plan is to have a rest of big jobs and focus on real work and enjoying MiToS!
got a list of smallish to do in hand, so thought I'd work on a few these days.
First, is it normal to have a rule 800gph you know the small barrel red/white bilge pump fail by locking itself and burning fuses??
Did it once, thought the fuse wasn't right, did it trice, checked the pump, used a screwdriver to turn the thing, felt slightly stiff, worked, plugged it in worked for a few days, now the same. So replaced it with a 500gph one I found in a box, works fine!
saw a small leak behind the el. toilet (the good one that's never caused problems, the other is a bitch!) turns out the top seal where the seawater gets in the top of the bowl is getting hard and leaks. Toilet out, pipe/rubber out sika time putting it again together, nice.
The other crappy el. toilet had a failing rubber gasket between the motor manifold and the plastic base. So yesterday after cleaning carefully all bits and the mating faces, I smeared a bit of SIKA on the gasket and put it back together. So now it BOTH leaks AGAIN AND wont pump out the water, nicer!
Pretty sure that some sika squeezed inside and is blocking the black plastic rotating barrel. So dismantling it AGAIN and sorting out the excess sika as well as cutting a new rubber gasket, nice.
Fitted the new ECU I got from coastalrides and confirmed the other one (bought s/h from ebay...) had failed. So at least I now have a/p working for a change!
Finished the wiring of the watermaker and spent 2h sorting out crap on the garage trying to find the high pressure pipe that connects the pump to the RO membrane pressure vessel, argh! Going at night back at the boat to search AGAIN for it.
no pics today just rants
Tomorrow the top frame H/T should be all welded and ready to be welded/bolted onto the 4 pilars.
Hope that by Wed it will be fitted, fingers crossed!
cheers
V.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
First off you have been busy and great work kida, love the wood work, and are you not yet fed up of making panels for it lol
Just get a move on hey, i have found us a joint project if your up for it. This would do us right to the ground, and ok you can have the back end. Although i do like a good back end
Bit over priced though but what a cracker it would be, not far from me aswell.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/project-b...12berths-houseboat-charter-etc-/332317594932?
Or a bit cheaper
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/houseboat...717204?hash=item44085754d4:g:3DkAAOSwopRYiRoR
I blame Scolly for this lol,
Just get a move on hey, i have found us a joint project if your up for it. This would do us right to the ground, and ok you can have the back end. Although i do like a good back end
Bit over priced though but what a cracker it would be, not far from me aswell.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/project-b...12berths-houseboat-charter-etc-/332317594932?
Or a bit cheaper
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/houseboat...717204?hash=item44085754d4:g:3DkAAOSwopRYiRoR
I blame Scolly for this lol,
vas
Well-Known Member
W,
I'd opt for the first one (but not that happy tbh) but then I might as well leave Greece and emigrate to the UK as my dear wife will try to kill me for sure if she hears that (let alone see this mess...)
so, I'll skip for now
Just back from a full week on board exploring the isles around us, swimming, sleeping and generally relaxing. Not in a mood to work at anything, so I thought I'll update on the H/T which was fitted a few days before leaving.
Remember side elevation was meant to be something like this:
Not far off it, radar base is different and unfortunately I specified it too high imho, and it's not easy to chop it either.
Nikos having already built the mock for the superstructure and fitted the 4X48mm pilars, went into fabricating the top where the two 2X1m panels fit. In order to do so, he made two mocks of the actual solar panels (oversize by 6mm on each side to cater for the UL polywhatever strip that will be fitted between ss frame and ali panel) so that he could weld and built all the construction around them. At this point he also bolted on the side gutters the stronger (5mm thick) L shaped section that the pilars would weld on. Plan is that I can (if I wish) undo 10 M8 bolts and lift the top frame of the pillars.
Worked a treat:
And off it went to the dock by the boatyard to be lifted and fitted:
Unfortunately haven't got any pics when trying to fit the beast, so next pics are with the H/T fitted...
I can say it wasn't an easy job, and would have been 100X easier with the boat on the hard, but couldn't justify the cost having recently paid the diver to clean the hull...
Now to the problems:
Plan was to have the two side gutters (which are closed on the front as seen in the pics above) to send all rainwater to the aft, so it was important to get the levels right. Which apparently we didn't
I was hanging up there with a spirit level trying to find the right spot and having secured the rear two pillars on the superstructure when two bleeding liners passed by at the time creating enough wash to almost mess up everything and at some point I thought I got it right and drilled through. Apparently the front two pillars supports on the superstructure need to lift up by 10mm. Not an impossible task which I'll discuss with Nikos and proceed soon.
The other BIG failure was the slanting of the superstructure the degrees of which were measured with an app on my mobile and didn't match the metalwork that Nikos built as a mock on his workshop (using an acurate digital tool). So we have mainly on the front (again) pillars a discrepancy of around 6mm in the 120mm dia plate. That's a serious issue and the solution to it will be to built with George four nice round rings of iroko tapered to match the 6mm (which will be anyway reduced as we pull the pillar plates away from the superstructure). I'll do the first test with softwood at the w/e and see what we come up with George on that. That's a v.silly mistake and all mine!
We are not over yet though...
I knew that the construction would be flexing and would need some kind of support so to start with we got two lines to hold it in a back forth movement. If you remember my initial plan was to have a third set of columns supporting the H/T but Nikos was not able to built in in a mock and would have to bring the whole mess back and forth to his workshop which would be impractical (and way too expensive...)
To start with I got two 30mm dia tubes and their paraphernalia to fit from the side of the dash to the main beam between the two panels. Nikos came on the spot and welded them (temporarily) will have to undo them and get the upsidedown V shape to his workshop for finishing off the welds and polishing.
Things improved massively but we still had a bit of a side play, so two more pieces of smaller 25 (or 28mm) tube and the necessary supports were added in the H/T. Rigidity is fully restored and was happy with a F6 we got in the way and when moored in Alonisos.
Solar panels are fine pumping 15.5-16A @24V for a good number of hours everyday, pitty my 4X180Ah normal batteries are completely shot and wont hold half that load for half a day... Now that's all sorted, it's time to go for deep discharge batteries, doesn't look I can stretch up to Trojans, so Sunlight seems to be the next option.
Radar worked straight away, still failing with the heading sensor on my A/P so occasionally image was rotated and allover the place. Wasn't really necessary so mainly was playing with it.
More pics of the finished article in another post as dropbox is too slow today and still has a good 50pics to grab off my mobile. Mind H/T wont look good unless the sides are covered with iroko, the front section gets an (again) iroko set of louvres to keep the sun away from 9 to 11AM and the back side of the panels and frame are lined.
cheers
V.
I'd opt for the first one (but not that happy tbh) but then I might as well leave Greece and emigrate to the UK as my dear wife will try to kill me for sure if she hears that (let alone see this mess...)
so, I'll skip for now
Just back from a full week on board exploring the isles around us, swimming, sleeping and generally relaxing. Not in a mood to work at anything, so I thought I'll update on the H/T which was fitted a few days before leaving.
Remember side elevation was meant to be something like this:
Not far off it, radar base is different and unfortunately I specified it too high imho, and it's not easy to chop it either.
Nikos having already built the mock for the superstructure and fitted the 4X48mm pilars, went into fabricating the top where the two 2X1m panels fit. In order to do so, he made two mocks of the actual solar panels (oversize by 6mm on each side to cater for the UL polywhatever strip that will be fitted between ss frame and ali panel) so that he could weld and built all the construction around them. At this point he also bolted on the side gutters the stronger (5mm thick) L shaped section that the pilars would weld on. Plan is that I can (if I wish) undo 10 M8 bolts and lift the top frame of the pillars.
Worked a treat:
And off it went to the dock by the boatyard to be lifted and fitted:
Unfortunately haven't got any pics when trying to fit the beast, so next pics are with the H/T fitted...
I can say it wasn't an easy job, and would have been 100X easier with the boat on the hard, but couldn't justify the cost having recently paid the diver to clean the hull...
Now to the problems:
Plan was to have the two side gutters (which are closed on the front as seen in the pics above) to send all rainwater to the aft, so it was important to get the levels right. Which apparently we didn't
I was hanging up there with a spirit level trying to find the right spot and having secured the rear two pillars on the superstructure when two bleeding liners passed by at the time creating enough wash to almost mess up everything and at some point I thought I got it right and drilled through. Apparently the front two pillars supports on the superstructure need to lift up by 10mm. Not an impossible task which I'll discuss with Nikos and proceed soon.
The other BIG failure was the slanting of the superstructure the degrees of which were measured with an app on my mobile and didn't match the metalwork that Nikos built as a mock on his workshop (using an acurate digital tool). So we have mainly on the front (again) pillars a discrepancy of around 6mm in the 120mm dia plate. That's a serious issue and the solution to it will be to built with George four nice round rings of iroko tapered to match the 6mm (which will be anyway reduced as we pull the pillar plates away from the superstructure). I'll do the first test with softwood at the w/e and see what we come up with George on that. That's a v.silly mistake and all mine!
We are not over yet though...
I knew that the construction would be flexing and would need some kind of support so to start with we got two lines to hold it in a back forth movement. If you remember my initial plan was to have a third set of columns supporting the H/T but Nikos was not able to built in in a mock and would have to bring the whole mess back and forth to his workshop which would be impractical (and way too expensive...)
To start with I got two 30mm dia tubes and their paraphernalia to fit from the side of the dash to the main beam between the two panels. Nikos came on the spot and welded them (temporarily) will have to undo them and get the upsidedown V shape to his workshop for finishing off the welds and polishing.
Things improved massively but we still had a bit of a side play, so two more pieces of smaller 25 (or 28mm) tube and the necessary supports were added in the H/T. Rigidity is fully restored and was happy with a F6 we got in the way and when moored in Alonisos.
Solar panels are fine pumping 15.5-16A @24V for a good number of hours everyday, pitty my 4X180Ah normal batteries are completely shot and wont hold half that load for half a day... Now that's all sorted, it's time to go for deep discharge batteries, doesn't look I can stretch up to Trojans, so Sunlight seems to be the next option.
Radar worked straight away, still failing with the heading sensor on my A/P so occasionally image was rotated and allover the place. Wasn't really necessary so mainly was playing with it.
More pics of the finished article in another post as dropbox is too slow today and still has a good 50pics to grab off my mobile. Mind H/T wont look good unless the sides are covered with iroko, the front section gets an (again) iroko set of louvres to keep the sun away from 9 to 11AM
and the back side of the panels and frame are lined.cheers
V.
Bouba
Well-Known Member
The finished top looks exactly like your drawing. Well done, excellent bit of engineering
waynes world
Well-Known Member
I agree,it looks great ,Love to see some good engineering going on aswell 
I can see it now lite up at night with some nice LED`s and you chilling out with a bottle of your fav
I can see it now lite up at night with some nice LED`s and you chilling out with a bottle of your fav
rafiki_
Well-Known Member
Interesting job Vas. Has the additional mass up top made any difference to the dynamics of MiToS underway, or when moored. I guess the natural frequency has slowed down a tad, but with a bit more amplitude? Like Wayne I am looking forward to seeing a pic of you and yours chilled with a bottle of Athos or similar.
vas
Well-Known Member
must be the longest period since the thread start without an update, apologies!
P, cannot really say I can feel anything changing. It's like on person permanently standing on the f/b.
Fabricator was concerned on behaviour against wind. Got a couple of cases where I was against a F6, nothing odd felt, no flexing and moving no squeaking, so happy overall.
Will take some time before a pic of me drinking up there, I've only got one drinking raki and eating urchins if you like, but I was also helming
So, started working on correcting what I don't like on the h/t. First was getting the angles of the flanges right so that they make good contact with the superstructure. They looked like this:
So last week I undid the 8bolts holding the horizontal frame with the two solar panels to the stbrd side, plus the 6 bolts on the two flanges and carefully removed the stbrd side frame/pillars. Only needed to prop the rear of the h/t with a 30X50 wooden post. Got them to Nikos workshop and by the evening I had them back repaired, rewelded, re polished, everything. Fitted them with 3mm rubber flanges, bolted them hard against the superstructure and the solar panels frame and it does look absolutely perfect!
Now need to do the port side (only I don't have time). Sorry no pics of the finished article
Rewired all the bits (radar, VHF, anemometer) for the aft stbrd pilar and I'm getting ready for the front stbrd pillar (f/b dimmable lights, speakers, anchor light, bathing platform flood led light, a couple more lines just in case)
Today after lots of thinking and sketching, I managed to cut and remove the slanted 80mm dia pilar holding the radar 200mm above the frame. It was a horribly stupid idea as unless it's July or August sun angle meant that you had serious shading of the panels (and practically no power to the MPPT controller) So plan is to lower it to just 20mm above the frame and shift it as much back as possible. Pilar and round base goes to Nikos tomorrow in order to remove the pilar, add an extra hole for the cables and fill the existing cable hole in the middle.
looked like this:
marked how I want it modified:
TBH, I've not worked much over the summer, too exhausted and my back wasn't at it's best, so decided to work on two small projects.
USB charging devices (mobiles, tablets, cameras, et al) and anchor chain counter.
First one as reported on this thread and here, was successful at last (about time as I've now a massive collection of different 30->5V droppers...) so now each cabin features at least one Vimar idea USB port capable of charging at either 0.5A, 1.5A or 2.1A. Tested with a nice app on my android mobile, works fine, even able to charge swiftly ipads and iphones, well impressed!
some tests with lots of resistors around. Eventually got a simplified version and another one slightly more complex for higher output.
Well, this chain counter, must be the hardest project in the whole rebuilt! Doesn't help that I'm a self taught programmer and my first attempt at programming with reed switches. Also doesn't help using an expensive marine reed switch that was smacked a couple of times by the anchor chain, slightly bent and eventually died. That's what it looked like:
New sensor is a euro (max) magnetic contact for a typical domotic system secured and protected with a L shaped ali piece.
Anyhow, had the whole project working apart from a couple of stupid mistakes on the UP windlass triggering and calculations which took over a week of couple of hours a day to sort, and EMI which took much longer as I thought it was some problem in the code and i was writing and rewriting the routines for a couple of weeks! Eventually, disconnected the reed and noticed that system was still registering pulses and gypsy rotations. Finally only this evening all worked properly with a combination of s/w and h/w debounce.
Same arduino box has NASA anemometer, an old CETREK analogue rudder sensor and a couple of fluid level sensors (one ultrasound, one pressure) all working properly feeding data to the N2K bus.
Now getting ready for another engine mount this time var-> NMEA2K converter for g/b oil pressure, seawater coolant temp, EGT temp etc. Got the whole winter to implement that, so not in a hurry.
cheers
V.
P, cannot really say I can feel anything changing. It's like on person permanently standing on the f/b.
Fabricator was concerned on behaviour against wind. Got a couple of cases where I was against a F6, nothing odd felt, no flexing and moving no squeaking, so happy overall.
Will take some time before a pic of me drinking up there, I've only got one drinking raki and eating urchins if you like, but I was also helming
So, started working on correcting what I don't like on the h/t. First was getting the angles of the flanges right so that they make good contact with the superstructure. They looked like this:
So last week I undid the 8bolts holding the horizontal frame with the two solar panels to the stbrd side, plus the 6 bolts on the two flanges and carefully removed the stbrd side frame/pillars. Only needed to prop the rear of the h/t with a 30X50 wooden post. Got them to Nikos workshop and by the evening I had them back repaired, rewelded, re polished, everything. Fitted them with 3mm rubber flanges, bolted them hard against the superstructure and the solar panels frame and it does look absolutely perfect!
Now need to do the port side (only I don't have time). Sorry no pics of the finished article
Rewired all the bits (radar, VHF, anemometer) for the aft stbrd pilar and I'm getting ready for the front stbrd pillar (f/b dimmable lights, speakers, anchor light, bathing platform flood led light, a couple more lines just in case)
Today after lots of thinking and sketching, I managed to cut and remove the slanted 80mm dia pilar holding the radar 200mm above the frame. It was a horribly stupid idea as unless it's July or August sun angle meant that you had serious shading of the panels (and practically no power to the MPPT controller) So plan is to lower it to just 20mm above the frame and shift it as much back as possible. Pilar and round base goes to Nikos tomorrow in order to remove the pilar, add an extra hole for the cables and fill the existing cable hole in the middle.
looked like this:
marked how I want it modified:
TBH, I've not worked much over the summer, too exhausted and my back wasn't at it's best, so decided to work on two small projects.
USB charging devices (mobiles, tablets, cameras, et al) and anchor chain counter.
First one as reported on this thread and here, was successful at last (about time as I've now a massive collection of different 30->5V droppers...) so now each cabin features at least one Vimar idea USB port capable of charging at either 0.5A, 1.5A or 2.1A. Tested with a nice app on my android mobile, works fine, even able to charge swiftly ipads and iphones, well impressed!
some tests with lots of resistors around. Eventually got a simplified version and another one slightly more complex for higher output.
Well, this chain counter, must be the hardest project in the whole rebuilt! Doesn't help that I'm a self taught programmer and my first attempt at programming with reed switches. Also doesn't help using an expensive marine reed switch that was smacked a couple of times by the anchor chain, slightly bent and eventually died. That's what it looked like:
New sensor is a euro (max) magnetic contact for a typical domotic system secured and protected with a L shaped ali piece.
Anyhow, had the whole project working apart from a couple of stupid mistakes on the UP windlass triggering and calculations which took over a week of couple of hours a day to sort, and EMI which took much longer as I thought it was some problem in the code and i was writing and rewriting the routines for a couple of weeks! Eventually, disconnected the reed and noticed that system was still registering pulses and gypsy rotations. Finally only this evening all worked properly with a combination of s/w and h/w debounce.
Same arduino box has NASA anemometer, an old CETREK analogue rudder sensor and a couple of fluid level sensors (one ultrasound, one pressure) all working properly feeding data to the N2K bus.
Now getting ready for another engine mount this time var-> NMEA2K converter for g/b oil pressure, seawater coolant temp, EGT temp etc. Got the whole winter to implement that, so not in a hurry.
cheers
V.
petem
Well-Known Member
Great updates Vas. Nice to be doing the fun stuff too I imagine.
I can't remember you being that Grey when you started!
I can't remember you being that Grey when you started!
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rafiki_
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the update Vas. Love the OCD'ness with the flange mounts. Your tenacity is a lesson to us all! MiToS is a very unique and brilliant boat now. What a transformation from the tub you bought all those years ago!
MapisM
Well-Known Member
Positively +1 to everything Rafiki said!
Congratulations particularly for the h/t final result.
One major constraint is that the height required for an h/t on the f/b makes it stand out a lot on any boat under 70 feet or so, because the h/t looks too high in proportion to the whole boat.
This is also true for MiToS to some extent, but I can't imagine how you could have made it any nicer/sleeker than that. :encouragement:
Sorry if you already did and I missed that!
Btw, NMEA2K conversion aside, I would have thought that your engines didn't come with any EGT sensors, originally.
Was that one of your many improvements which I missed, maybe?
PS: I also love sea urchins, both raw and as pasta sauce.
But raki... Ain't that a bit too strong? I usually pair them with Vermentino (white Sardinian wine)...
Congratulations particularly for the h/t final result.
One major constraint is that the height required for an h/t on the f/b makes it stand out a lot on any boat under 70 feet or so, because the h/t looks too high in proportion to the whole boat.
This is also true for MiToS to some extent, but I can't imagine how you could have made it any nicer/sleeker than that. :encouragement:
V, could you possibly list the specific components which you eventually found to work better, and their connection scheme?
Sorry if you already did and I missed that!
This is another interesting development I'm looking fwd to hearing about.
Btw, NMEA2K conversion aside, I would have thought that your engines didn't come with any EGT sensors, originally.
Was that one of your many improvements which I missed, maybe?
PS: I also love sea urchins, both raw and as pasta sauce.
But raki... Ain't that a bit too strong? I usually pair them with Vermentino (white Sardinian wine)...
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rafiki_
Well-Known Member
Raki? Or is it Ouzo? Goes floculant with water?PS: I also love sea urchins, both raw and as pasta sauce.
But raki... Ain't that a bit too strong? I usually pair them with Vermentino (white Sardinian wine)...
vas
Well-Known Member
nice one Pete, was 47 when I started I'm well past 50 now you know. BTW with all the sun hair becomes even lighter in colour, you should see me in March for a darker shade
Indeed P, I went through the thread trying to find some details (easier than searching around 4K hi rez pics on my server) and was amazed at how MiToS looked back then, you do forget easily afterall...
Was one of my concerns, everybody was saying that it's too low (it's actually 1.80 clear at the edges and 1.85 in the middle. It feels just fine no matter if you re standing or sitting.
I have some ideas on the side cladding which will hopefully make it look more part of the boat and not a cap on top of it. We shall see.
The really awful mistake was getting the radar 200mm higher, looked okayish on the workshop, looked bad on the truck moving it to the boat and worse in place. Really couldn't stand the sight as I was walking along the pontoon going to the boat everytime. Should be back in place during the w/e.
I'm planning to do so P, only I linked to two threads that have relevant discussion but there's a third one (that i didn't start!) that has the final part of the development. Don't remember, may have been Jez's thread? Anyone?
I'm planning to post which droppers I used, and the three layouts of resistors that work for different currents. Really does work!
EGTs, no IVECOs didn't have any, note I scrapped the exhaust elbows and built new ones and had them drilled and prepared for thermistors (I think that's how they are called) During the winter I'll sort out my programming and sensors and try them in the summer. It's quite easy tbh, a few ppl already have that in PBO and they suggested sensors etc.This is another interesting development I'm looking fwd to hearing about.
Btw, NMEA2K conversion aside, I would have thought that your engines didn't come with any EGT sensors, originally.
Was that one of your many improvements which I missed, maybe?
PS: I also love sea urchins, both raw and as pasta sauce.
But raki... Ain't that a bit too strong? I usually pair them with Vermentino (white Sardinian wine)...
At the same time I was planning to have a seawater flow sensor installed to check for blockages on supply but the sensors I bought (admittedly 2-3 euro each
) I wouldn't dare get them close to an engine, so plan is now to use another such sensor (got a dozen from China ) to monitor exhaust elbow water supply before the spraying thing (how do you call that?) I will not fit this second sensor inside the water path, but probably in contact with the ss pipe leading to the exhaust elbow. We shall see.Well spotted P.!
And to answer the other P. comment above, batteries are buggered (3KW produced by the solar panels each day, fridges off by midnight!), temps were 35+, nothing cold in the fridge, my cousin who was with us brought along some ouzo (which I rarely touch!) so it was my only option. Yes, was strong but at the time I was doing 5knots and cousin was trying to fish from the aft deck (unsuccessfully I may add...)
on another note, found a s/h avon 3.20 seasport jetrib with the jockey seat and bike handlebar thing, i thought all of them were with proper wheel and different seating arrangment. Any problems with them (other than the 2-stroke motor) as I may have a go at one!
cheers
V.