MiToS re-built/fit- versilcraft Mystery43

petem

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thanks Pete, but the guy doing the inspection is coming this week and I need to have the name of the boat in place. Checked with a local firm and got an amazing quote of 35euro for cutting all the letters in 316 shinny 1.5mm steel. Chickened out on the 2mm as I'm afraid the curvature of the transom wont be accommodating.
So, sorry, had to take the local option on this...

Well done VAS that's an amazing price, even the Chinese can't do them that cheap! Was that for all the letters or just some of them? Whatever, you need all the cash you have for the other bits of the boat.

Anyhow, I hope I was some help in getting the art work sorted. We still need pics!
 

vas

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Well done VAS that's an amazing price, even the Chinese can't do them that cheap! Was that for all the letters or just some of them? Whatever, you need all the cash you have for the other bits of the boat.

Anyhow, I hope I was some help in getting the art work sorted. We still need pics!

TBH Pete, I didn't believe it when I heard the price...
It is indeed for ALL the letters, Mitos, NP4089, and twice Mystere in polished 316 SS. They even managed to do the sig on the T and looks really good.
Didn't peel the protective film yet, but I undid a bit on a letter and it looks good. it is 1.5mm, edges are not treated but tbh it's quite a small area and doesn't bother you probably unless you're under 45 and you look at it from 20cm, not the case, so I'm happy :p
Will post pics when I fit them.
BTW, your help was critical in getting the letters and curves right, ended up converting the AI files to AutoCAD DWGs with splines and that worked fine.
Now, my only issue is getting them secured on the painted hull. Doesn't look I'll go for the double sided tape, heard some horror stories with letters dropping off a GRP hulled sailboat with decent 3M double sided tape after a season in the sun! Mind with that price I can afford to get a few letters done every now and again :rolleyes:
Considering using the grey TDS caulking I've used on teak decks for the heads. JFM, any objections?
I'd prefer that as colour is quite close to the hull colour and if I end up spilling it wont be a big deal and will be almost invisible (although I'll try my best keeping it clean!)

Great stuff Vas, and useful progress again. Will swap you some cool breeze for some heat please.

Paul definitely need some cool breeze as I'm planning to covering the hull with copper filled epoxy this w/e at these temps I'll have no luck whatsoever unless I do 200ml at a time which will be a right pain!

A bit more progress and since I'm talking of antifouling, I had a good study of the "before" pics trying to figure out where the waterline should be. Tried some mental maths on how different the weight distribution is after the repairs of all decks, removal of all the carp, 6coats of paint everywhere (that alone must be 200kgs :p ) and refitting. Adding the bowthruster which is a good 50kg on the nose, shifting the heads towards the bow, adding a 80kg passarelle, adding a 30kg watermaker, adding another 100kg on the new bathing platform, etc.
Anyway, decided that life's too short, and I'll try lifting the waterline 3-5cm off the last actual waterline (with just 300lt of fuel out of 1200lt and full water tanks)
If it doesn't work, I'll lift the line on next liftout. Rather that than going too high and then either having to add coloured lines (which I don't like) or repaint the hull to sort it.
Will get hold of a laser spirit level on a tripod on Thursday but tried my trusty old 60cm spirit level on the transom and side of the hull. Two hours later and three attempts at getting the port side marks consistant and where I wanted, I got there ( at least I think!). I'll use the laser to place the masking tape more accurately.
Sanded with a 120grit the transom with all the obstructions (trim tabs, anode bolts and 3 lumishores) and early in the morning I'll try two different recipes for rolling 4 coats on the hull.

On the engine front, got the sea water exits bronze pipes enlarged and turned from the 38mm outside dia to 45mm that matches the ss exhaust riser water inlet AND means I can use proper exhaust flex hose for them. Costed 7euro for the 45deg elbows from a plumbers shop and 35 for welding them. Currently look like this:

portengine_refit_10.jpg


portengine_refit_11.jpg



Painted them and will fit them tomorrow. That's the last step before fitting the 127mm exhaust hose and starting the engines.
Well, got to finish off the removal of the old impeller on port engine. Got to admit am an impeller virgin and I wasn't impressed with my first attempt. The two screwdriver approach is a pain, wish I could get hold of a proper extractor tool. Anyway after 39mins of sweating (and swearing of course), I'm at this stage (that's around I/4 of the depth of the bleeding thing!)

portengine_refit_9.jpg


Cranked the port engine and it moved after 3yrs of rest. Did also check to make sure that the stop solenoids work and indeed they are wired properly and working. Remember, I've messed about all these cabling by relocating the start/stop panel and integrating it in the overall lower helm design.

Bathing platform work is progressing, George managed to prepare the first of the 4 teak panels. Test fitted on the frame, looks perfect, guess the colour differences between the pieces will soften under the Med sun, rather quickly!

bathing_platform_23.jpg


bathing_platform_24.jpg


bathing_platform_25.jpg



Starting finishing off small bits of work leftover over the years. A heads panel wasn't caulked for some reason or another, so went through the process last night. Now looks fine, waiting for it to dry for at least 4days before sanding and fitting.

heads_teakdecking_12.jpg


heads_teakdecking_13.jpg


heads_teakdecking_14.jpg


Also done quite a lot of sketching trying to figure out the ladder bringing you up from the bathing platform and the flybridge furniture. Will post on them tomorrow or the day after.

cheers

V.

PS. a big thanks to all contributors, never expected my rebuilt thread to be so popular (neither to take 3yrs as well but let's not get into that :D )
 
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rafiki_

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I don't think it will be a disaster if the antifoul line is too low, as I agree it is better this way than too high. Can always raise the line on the next lift. Bathing platform looks fantastic. Quality job!
Could do with some of your sun next week please Vas. We have the week on board Rafiki.
 

vas

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morning all,

an awful lot of progress and unfortunately no time to report it...
Alekos finished all painting leftovers from last year, plus redid the f/b helm that had some problems due to him continuing on the preparation and priming done by me and George that was clearly not up to his standards...
New salon sliding doors fitted with new tinted laminated glazing.
E/R ready for firing the engines (need some help getting the 127mm ID exhaust hose in place and cut in size)
Heads are ready, el. toilets in place (one has a minute leak I got to sort tomorrow), marble sink fitted in place, just missing mirrors (not sure if I go plexiglass ones or real glass ones, tempted for the real thing tbh)
Cabins are ready (for what they'll be like this year!) and even wife came over and started cleaning the mess...
4 cabin doors restored by George, two of them needed some glueing /pressing back in shape and all needed their endcaps repainted (two main surfaces are formica and in excellent nick)
Cleats fitted, back plates secured
Windlass needs gearbox oil after the rebuilt 3yrs ago... (I think I was told 120grade but will have to check again)
aft deck fixed benches painted, side panels fitted after a decent clean, check and a bead of silicone all around to make sure no rainwater is sipping through to the lazarette bilges.
Aft deck iroko capping sanded, checked and trimmed on the transom to match the underlying curvature, needs lacquering
Bow and stern alloy nav lights rebuilt (after a lot of pain!)
Bow railing section that was a real mess eventually straightened (after 6 tries and bending sessions on the workshop...) ready to thread the anchor light cabling through it to the anchor locker...
F/B bench and side box (for the gas cylinder) is ready, Alekos needs to get the top coat on the ply box on his workshop on Monday. The lot will be fitted on Tue.
F/B railings and cone mounts with their through mounting screws test fitted and need final securing with lots of Sika tomorrow.
New engine hatches built (er, I may have overdone them...) massive things, can jump up and down in the middle and they don't flex at all.
Rest of skin fittings in place, MiToS almost ready to get back in the water.
Copper based a/f done on 80%, need the side waterlines and the area around the shafts/rudders done. Getting the waterline was story itself involving investigating all the pics I've taken, rough estimates on up or down on weight and distribution of change due to bow thruster, relocation of heads, passarelle, platform, watermaker, f/b superstructure (to be done) and a laser spirit level. Curious how close I'm going to be...
Bathing platform all done waiting at George's workshop.
25 and 32mm dia tubing for the platform frame support bought and waiting the fitter/welder

Plan was to be in the water by today, eventually will be on the trolley on Tue, will be shifted forward a couple of metres to make the bathing platform job easier (stbrd part is over the water atm and a pain to work on) and to touch up the spots were she was sitting over the last few years, and should be in the water on Thursday.

Phew, that was a very concise report, sorry about lack of photos, but I'm basically working all day with a short lunch break and an hour of siesta to make it for the last 2-3weeks. Today is a bank holiday and I'm not allowed to work as we are visiting some friends a few villages away by the sea.
Fingers crossed, looks like next report will be floating. Don't worry I'll fill in the (photo) gaps in retrospect and there's plenty of work to be done while afloat.

cheers

V.
 

longjohnsilver

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So Thursday is the BIG day, bet you can't wait! Hope it all goes well and look forward to seeing all the pics. How long since she was last floating?

When she's back in, will you be leaving her in for the winter?
 

MapisM

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Windlass needs gearbox oil after the rebuilt 3yrs ago... (I think I was told 120grade but will have to check again)
V, can't remember by heart what brand/model your winch is, but FWIW the manual of my '95 vintage Lofrans Falkon specifies SAE 90 long life.
Btw, I've also got the PDF file - just let me know if you'd like me to email it to you.

Really looking forward to the next round of pics! :encouragement:
 

Firefly625

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Wow Vas, what a load of work, tbh quite nice not having pics and imagining all the bits in my head. Odd knowing a boat so well that is so many miles away and I have never seen. I'm excited to see her in the water, those are the pictures you HAVE to get uploaded..

Good luck with the launch.
 

WorstCase

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Finallly portlights were painted by Alekos, checked, matched and fitted yesterday morning but I run out of time (and cool weather...) to finish off with the also black matt painted rings on the port side. Sbrd side looks more complete and the bow portlight on the stbrd side shows why I had to get all 10 270mm dia tempered glass to the local CarGlass company who are fitting the darkest available tint film on them for 110euro, not bad!

topcoat_52.jpg


Looks really nice

topcoat_53.jpg


topcoat_54.jpg


cheers

V.
 

MikeBrazier

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Thanks for the update Vas, it sounds like you have a lot going on at the moment!!!

I hope you can find time to post some pictures of your progress, I would love to see them.

Mike.
 
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NICE!!!! NICE !!!! There are Manufacturers who would die for a hull finish like that. i do not believe that an appropriate superlative exists that adequately describes this project.

Rant over ;)
 

MikeBrazier

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I hope Vas is too busy enjoying his now floating boat to update the thread.

I hope everything went to plan and you are enjoying yourself.

Best wishes
Mike.
 
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