jfm
Well-known member
Yep, I can see that. Hence rheostat/potentiometer suggestion!
MiToS re-built/fit- versilcraft Mystery43
- Thread starter vas
- Start date
MapisM
Well-known member
LOL, I was going to reply "well spotted" to jfm, for noticing the somewhat confusing indicators setup, but your spotting of the reason is even better!
Trouble is, the Bravo outdrive is not designed for a mechanical indicator, so it's necessary to install the add-on visible in the first pic, and it works by pushing the cable inside when the outdrive is lowered.
I guess the builder could have "inverted" the indicator movement with some sort of leverage behind the dash, but probably decided it was better to keep the cable path as straight and simple as possible, and let the helmsman get used to the way the indicators work - which is no big deal, in fact.
But there's no doubt that it would be more intuitive the other way round.
In fact, with real racing outdrives like the #6 or the M8, I've always seen the indicators working in the same way as the tabs.
Re. the slightly raised installation, I suppose the reason has something to see with the bolts position, possibly interfering with the very substantial lamination between the hull and the stern, but I'm not positive about that.
And I don't think that could make any meaningful difference anyway, also because those tabs are longer than the pic perspective suggests.
PS: coming to think of it, I've also seen sportboats with the tabs installed perfectly horizontal - therefore with the internal part obviously much higher than the hull bottom.
I think that the advantage of this type of installation is in a better straightening of rolling at high speed, albeit at the expense of a slightly less efficient water flow...
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vas
Well-known member
sorry for the delay in replying, but I spent last w/e in bed with a nasty flu, this w/e I managed to do some work so there's something to show!
nice suggestion, but unless I get my act together, any ppl coming along will spent their time in the tavernas as I probably wont have time to even meet them
Closing to June deadline, I should have some more time and organize work properly. Then whoever wants to come will have a couple of jobs available and will be welcomed. There's a guest room at home waiting
It's not so much of the never give up as it is a general vision and plan that I have. This works well with setting small mental deadlines to keep me happy that there is indeed progress. Yes, if you go through the thread in a couple of days you do see some impressive progress (mind I have to congratulate you for going through over a thousand posts ) but if you work on it day by day and week by week, you easily loose track of what you have achieved. OK, enough with the philosophy of the work, time for an update
lower helm has progressed through a series of ideas and iterations shown next.
next pic shows everything in place even the "door" covering the new el/panel. This will be lacquered, whereas the rest will be lined:
eventually, finalized the angles/layout of the side panel, got it cut and formed out of 1.5mm galvanized steel and got it back in the boat for fitting. Fitting alone took a few hours...
At that point I decided to change the layout yet again and to squeeze wiper controls, engine on/off, gen panel AND the three bilge controllers ALL in there. Didn't seem possible initially, but eventually turned out more than feasible once I changed the layout and scrapped the box where the wiper controllers were in. Further on the slanted panel and above the chartplotter it is possible to fit both the a/p cetrek control AND the autoanchor windlass control and have space above them for the b/t and horn button. Seems that vhf wont fit in this layout so I'll hang it on the side somewhere, not decided yet.
Today I did all the drilling and cutting in the steel panel and I'm almost ready to line it with black vinyl. My experience from lining a steel sheet with vinyl from the engines' gauge panel (which currently looks carp and has to be relined!) was that there's no fcking way the vinyl under all that heat will live and stay glued WITHOUT stretching it and stapling it onto something. So I cut iroko leftovers into strips and bolted them with countersunk screws onto the panel, so that I can stretch over and staple the vinyl Worked out quite well, just took an awful lot of time. Further, I have to cut to shape a piece of ply to line and give thickness around the genny panel and the bilge control panels. This I haven't yet done as I run out of time, but it's needed so that I can bolt the genny aluminum panel onto it. Once done, I can stretch the vinyl and start assembling the pieces of the puzzle. Will use a 3mm foam for a bit of a plush feel to it. Also smoothens out any screwhead detailing and other blemishes in the panel.
Dremel was invaluable, took me 6 smallish cutting disks to do all this cutting:
following pics are awful, but it's almost midnight and I cannot get any natural light on them so flash reflections of my phone make them look really bad.
TBH, feel very relieved with this out of the way, as I can wire all things up and only need the three buttons for nav lights plus the bowthruster and horn controls on the slanted panel.
Means that this coming week I'm planning a day off to work on MiToS (or maybe go up the mountain skiing, fresh snow today and more expected tomorrow!) so that I can focus on the galley above the sink cabinet, for George to start working. Ideally I'd like the galley and lower helm done by easter (or throughout easter) so that as soon as the weather heats up (currently impossible to work outside for more than a few mins at a time due to extremely wet and cold N winds hitting the aft deck) I can move outside.
Next projects are salon, fitting seals on the salon sliding windows (currently there are some small leaks due to missing seals) and then sanding and treating the iroko toerail/capping and fitting, polishing and general sorting out the railings.
On the chartplotter front, seems that I'll either stick to my 3006C old plotter (no NMEA2K on it) connected to a GSD20 sounder module and the GMR24HD radar replicated on the salon TV via a 15euro video out cable, and connected via NMEA0183 to the CETREK autopilot OR I put them all on ebay and get a newer plotter.
Being following what's available on ebay and considering that 7 or 8inch max is what will fit on the slanted panel, my options are not really limited (going for Garmin only!) but definitely not cheap. GPSMAP 4008, 5008 and 6008 are old tech and surprisingly cost MORE s/h than the much newer wifi/bt, multitouch 721 plotter NEW... Would be nice to know what's the difference between 721 741 and 751 though, but Garmin cannot be bothered, so I'll go for the cheapest.
Considering I've also got a f/b to accommodate somehow and trying to have a fairly minimal layout up there, I'm seriously considering a 721xs (with sounder for approx. 1100euro from Italy) on the lower helm replicated on any of the android devices we carry onboard or on wife's new ipad. Looking at garmin helm s/w youtube videos, I have to admit I'm quite impressed with response and functionality! I know since I don't have a garmin autopilot, I wont be able to steer and move the boat a'la JFM from the bow sunpad but I can live with that as it's a much sorter walk to the helm anyway
Remember that there are two GMI10 donated by JFM to be fitted on the upper helm either side of the central pod showing all engine data through a NOLAND RS-11. So there wont be any gauges on the f/b dash, just the two GMI10s. Initial plan was to fit a GPSMAP 520 INSIDE the steering/compass pod. Still have all the kit for it, not sure I still want to do it though. May also sell a brand new 520 and a s/h 521 as well to fund the 721.
Hopefully I'll have the panel ready and fitted next weekend with some pics to prove
cheers
V.
nice suggestion, but unless I get my act together, any ppl coming along will spent their time in the tavernas as I probably wont have time to even meet them
Closing to June deadline, I should have some more time and organize work properly. Then whoever wants to come will have a couple of jobs available and will be welcomed. There's a guest room at home waiting
thanks for the kind words, never thought of the FG analogy tbh
It's not so much of the never give up as it is a general vision and plan that I have. This works well with setting small mental deadlines to keep me happy that there is indeed progress. Yes, if you go through the thread in a couple of days you do see some impressive progress (mind I have to congratulate you for going through over a thousand posts
) but if you work on it day by day and week by week, you easily loose track of what you have achieved. OK, enough with the philosophy of the work, time for an update lower helm has progressed through a series of ideas and iterations shown next.
next pic shows everything in place even the "door" covering the new el/panel. This will be lacquered, whereas the rest will be lined:
eventually, finalized the angles/layout of the side panel, got it cut and formed out of 1.5mm galvanized steel and got it back in the boat for fitting. Fitting alone took a few hours...
At that point I decided to change the layout yet again and to squeeze wiper controls, engine on/off, gen panel AND the three bilge controllers ALL in there. Didn't seem possible initially, but eventually turned out more than feasible once I changed the layout and scrapped the box where the wiper controllers were in. Further on the slanted panel and above the chartplotter it is possible to fit both the a/p cetrek control AND the autoanchor windlass control and have space above them for the b/t and horn button. Seems that vhf wont fit in this layout so I'll hang it on the side somewhere, not decided yet.
Today I did all the drilling and cutting in the steel panel and I'm almost ready to line it with black vinyl. My experience from lining a steel sheet with vinyl from the engines' gauge panel (which currently looks carp and has to be relined!) was that there's no fcking way the vinyl under all that heat will live and stay glued WITHOUT stretching it and stapling it onto something. So I cut iroko leftovers into strips and bolted them with countersunk screws onto the panel, so that I can stretch over and staple the vinyl
Worked out quite well, just took an awful lot of time. Further, I have to cut to shape a piece of ply to line and give thickness around the genny panel and the bilge control panels. This I haven't yet done as I run out of time, but it's needed so that I can bolt the genny aluminum panel onto it. Once done, I can stretch the vinyl and start assembling the pieces of the puzzle. Will use a 3mm foam for a bit of a plush feel to it. Also smoothens out any screwhead detailing and other blemishes in the panel.Dremel was invaluable, took me 6 smallish cutting disks to do all this cutting:
following pics are awful, but it's almost midnight and I cannot get any natural light on them so flash reflections of my phone make them look really bad.
TBH, feel very relieved with this out of the way, as I can wire all things up and only need the three buttons for nav lights plus the bowthruster and horn controls on the slanted panel.
Means that this coming week I'm planning a day off to work on MiToS (or maybe go up the mountain skiing, fresh snow today and more expected tomorrow!) so that I can focus on the galley above the sink cabinet, for George to start working. Ideally I'd like the galley and lower helm done by easter (or throughout easter) so that as soon as the weather heats up (currently impossible to work outside for more than a few mins at a time due to extremely wet and cold N winds hitting the aft deck) I can move outside.
Next projects are salon, fitting seals on the salon sliding windows (currently there are some small leaks due to missing seals) and then sanding and treating the iroko toerail/capping and fitting, polishing and general sorting out the railings.
On the chartplotter front, seems that I'll either stick to my 3006C old plotter (no NMEA2K on it) connected to a GSD20 sounder module and the GMR24HD radar replicated on the salon TV via a 15euro video out cable, and connected via NMEA0183 to the CETREK autopilot OR I put them all on ebay and get a newer plotter.
Being following what's available on ebay and considering that 7 or 8inch max is what will fit on the slanted panel, my options are not really limited (going for Garmin only!) but definitely not cheap. GPSMAP 4008, 5008 and 6008 are old tech and surprisingly cost MORE s/h than the much newer wifi/bt, multitouch 721 plotter NEW... Would be nice to know what's the difference between 721 741 and 751 though, but Garmin cannot be bothered, so I'll go for the cheapest
.Considering I've also got a f/b to accommodate somehow and trying to have a fairly minimal layout up there, I'm seriously considering a 721xs (with sounder for approx. 1100euro from Italy) on the lower helm replicated on any of the android devices we carry onboard or on wife's new ipad. Looking at garmin helm s/w youtube videos, I have to admit I'm quite impressed with response and functionality! I know since I don't have a garmin autopilot, I wont be able to steer and move the boat a'la JFM from the bow sunpad but I can live with that as it's a much sorter walk to the helm anyway
Remember that there are two GMI10 donated by JFM to be fitted on the upper helm either side of the central pod showing all engine data through a NOLAND RS-11. So there wont be any gauges on the f/b dash, just the two GMI10s. Initial plan was to fit a GPSMAP 520 INSIDE the steering/compass pod. Still have all the kit for it, not sure I still want to do it though. May also sell a brand new 520 and a s/h 521 as well to fund the 721.
Hopefully I'll have the panel ready and fitted next weekend with some pics to prove
cheers
V.
rafiki_
Well-known member
Sorry to hear of the Man flu Vas. There's been an awful lot about this winter. Lower helm layout looking good, and should scrub up nicely with the vinyl finish. I'm also a fan of the dremel, has a multitude of uses, and I struck lucky last time in Michigan with a decent cutter set for a couple of bucks. I can go through these things quite quickly.
vas
Well-known member
weekly progress report time!
Managed to finish this complex panel, all nicely upholstered, cables lengthened, bolted on in place and ready to be fitted.
test fitted in situ:
and then back home to finish off and lengthen 14 wires connecting the engine on-off key and buttons to the central wiring loom behind the gauges panel. Unfortunately when I originally designed the thing keys were meant to be 20cm closer to the gauges and now cables weren't long enough.
Quite happy with everything, but need to rethink the stretching of the lining over the hole of the gen control panel. Bevels (or is it chamfers) too tight and lining wont stretch properly, so thinking of forming a thin sheet piece and covering the edge with it.
Opposite, on the galley area, sorted out the size of the cabinet on top of the sink, formed the "floor" of it and have it ready for George to take over and built the cabinet. It's slanted outside the lining panel and vertical to the panel between the panel and the outer superstructure ply. Make is possible to construct as a whole and fit it in after lining the panel. It's high enough for a mid shelf, but still thinking if it's going to be a plain shelf or I'm going to lasercut "seats" for various glasses. Was thinking of skipping the "seats" but instead put the hinges to this thing on the bottom so effectively folds "out" making easier to catch something before it drops as you try to open the cabinet after a bumpy ride Further opening it up (and having a 20-30mm lip around this "door") means I have a bit more space to organize laying out things around there when preparing or serving. Also not so keen on having a proper thick back to this cabinet, will probably upholster the superstructure ply and have the cabinet just rest and squeeze on top of the upholstery. Slightly tricky to get it right with no gaps, but I doubt I'll get it that wrong that a wine glass will slip in between I also understand that constructionwise it's not a proper design, but I can live with that.
Finally, the dash under the windscreen had at last the main panel trimmed and test fitted. Panel originally was around 150mm lower and slightly slanted meant a two step cut process to get it right. Now it clears over the wipers' motors and I have to invent the detailing towards the side windows. A lot of head scratching hasn't produced the goods today, will work on it and figure out something...
in place, note the missing piece around the spirit level, there I'll have to put a patch as its only use was to clear the Sailor VHF on the much lower dash. Now, it's just a matter of putting it back together.
awkward detailing to be sorted out:
George should be picking up this week in order to built the galley cabinet and start preparing the wrap around the oven on the old chart table as well as the rest of the cabinetry work around there.
Changed my mind (yet again!) on where to fit the old classic VHF, so now the sailor seems to be finding a spot way behind the gauges, leaving the central area just over the staircase free for a decent size cabinet (or most likely a deep drawer). Managing to utilize all space around there which is good.
Next installment should have the wipers/engines/genny/bilgepumps panel bolted in place and wired up.
Currently working on the f/b layout but too windy to work at all up there. Once weather improves, that's going to be the next task.
cheers
V.
Managed to finish this complex panel, all nicely upholstered, cables lengthened, bolted on in place and ready to be fitted.
test fitted in situ:
and then back home to finish off and lengthen 14 wires connecting the engine on-off key and buttons to the central wiring loom behind the gauges panel. Unfortunately when I originally designed the thing keys were meant to be 20cm closer to the gauges and now cables weren't long enough.
Quite happy with everything, but need to rethink the stretching of the lining over the hole of the gen control panel. Bevels (or is it chamfers) too tight and lining wont stretch properly, so thinking of forming a thin sheet piece and covering the edge with it.
Opposite, on the galley area, sorted out the size of the cabinet on top of the sink, formed the "floor" of it and have it ready for George to take over and built the cabinet. It's slanted outside the lining panel and vertical to the panel between the panel and the outer superstructure ply. Make is possible to construct as a whole and fit it in after lining the panel. It's high enough for a mid shelf, but still thinking if it's going to be a plain shelf or I'm going to lasercut "seats" for various glasses. Was thinking of skipping the "seats" but instead put the hinges to this thing on the bottom so effectively folds "out" making easier to catch something before it drops as you try to open the cabinet after a bumpy ride
Further opening it up (and having a 20-30mm lip around this "door") means I have a bit more space to organize laying out things around there when preparing or serving. Also not so keen on having a proper thick back to this cabinet, will probably upholster the superstructure ply and have the cabinet just rest and squeeze on top of the upholstery. Slightly tricky to get it right with no gaps, but I doubt I'll get it that wrong that a wine glass will slip in between I also understand that constructionwise it's not a proper design, but I can live with that.
Finally, the dash under the windscreen had at last the main panel trimmed and test fitted. Panel originally was around 150mm lower and slightly slanted meant a two step cut process to get it right. Now it clears over the wipers' motors and I have to invent the detailing towards the side windows. A lot of head scratching hasn't produced the goods today, will work on it and figure out something...
in place, note the missing piece around the spirit level, there I'll have to put a patch as its only use was to clear the Sailor VHF on the much lower dash. Now, it's just a matter of putting it back together.
awkward detailing to be sorted out:
George should be picking up this week in order to built the galley cabinet and start preparing the wrap around the oven on the old chart table as well as the rest of the cabinetry work around there.
Changed my mind (yet again!) on where to fit the old classic VHF, so now the sailor seems to be finding a spot way behind the gauges, leaving the central area just over the staircase free for a decent size cabinet (or most likely a deep drawer). Managing to utilize all space around there which is good.
Next installment should have the wipers/engines/genny/bilgepumps panel bolted in place and wired up.
Currently working on the f/b layout but too windy to work at all up there. Once weather improves, that's going to be the next task.
cheers
V.
jfm
Well-known member
Hi Vas
Stretching the vinyl around corners like you need for genset panel is close to impossible. The alternatives if you cannot front mount the genset panel include (a) a big radius in the plywood, and live with the look (b) or do what my builder has done and use a super stretchy vinyl, and (c) stitch it neatly like a car dashboard to create a 3d shape to the vinyl -I would mention at this point the beauty of a Sailrite sewing machine but Deleted User would mention Mumsnet Also you could find a very fine frame section, take to a picture frame maker to cut/mitre/staple, then spray in black paint - quite a faff though.
I would be careful with those bilge pump switches. They are clearly made to look like the uber good quality Carling Contura switches but they are clearly NOT genuine Carlings, so they might be Chinese knock offs. Maybe they are fine, but worth checking.
Stretching the vinyl around corners like you need for genset panel is close to impossible. The alternatives if you cannot front mount the genset panel include (a) a big radius in the plywood, and live with the look (b) or do what my builder has done and use a super stretchy vinyl, and (c) stitch it neatly like a car dashboard to create a 3d shape to the vinyl -I would mention at this point the beauty of a Sailrite sewing machine but Deleted User would mention Mumsnet
Also you could find a very fine frame section, take to a picture frame maker to cut/mitre/staple, then spray in black paint - quite a faff though. I would be careful with those bilge pump switches. They are clearly made to look like the uber good quality Carling Contura switches but they are clearly NOT genuine Carlings, so they might be Chinese knock offs. Maybe they are fine, but worth checking.
MapisM
Well-known member
LOL, I guess Osculati should have rather avoided to put their logo on those switches, if they wanted to disguise them for Carlings... Which they also sell, btw.
Mind, I'm neither saying that they are of equally good quality, nor that they aren't made in People's Republic, but they are pretty popular stuff, and fwiw for I've yet to hear anyone complaining about them.
Which they also sell, btw.Mind, I'm neither saying that they are of equally good quality, nor that they aren't made in People's Republic, but they are pretty popular stuff, and fwiw for I've yet to hear anyone complaining about them.
vas
Well-known member
true, haven't managed to find superstretch vinyl in similar colour/texture around here and tbh I cannot be bothered. I was hoping I'd be able to do a thin (around 5X10mm) section of iroko to smooth and cover the edge, but this panel you see has costed me around 25h from design, mocks, headscratching, more mocks, cutting on laser, test fitting, drilling, securing iroko strips to stretch and staple the vinyl on and finally fitting all the bits and bobs on it. Two hours alone were the redoing (and soldering the tips!) of the 14 cables from the engine on/off switches as they weren't long enough to meet the gauges panel and I wanted to route them carefully and securely around. Spending another 3h on a tiny strip of wood is not high in my priority list and should be able to do it on the spot. Next time I'm at my lasercutter's place, I'll get a 10mm by 2mm thick strip of alloy to stretch/bend around the cross section. Got a spray can of black colour laying around, so that will do itHi Vas
Stretching the vinyl around corners like you need for genset panel is close to impossible. The alternatives if you cannot front mount the genset panel include (a) a big radius in the plywood, and live with the look (b) or do what my builder has done and use a super stretchy vinyl, and (c) stitch it neatly like a car dashboard to create a 3d shape to the vinyl -I would mention at this point the beauty of a Sailrite sewing machine but Deleted User would mention Mumsnet
LOL, I guess Osculati should have rather avoided to put their logo on those switches, if they wanted to disguise them for Carlings...
Mind, I'm neither saying that they are of equally good quality, nor that they aren't made in People's Republic, but they are pretty popular stuff, and fwiw for I've yet to hear anyone complaining about them.
OK, now I know that my switches are copycats of Carling (I only knew of an awful lager under that name), so thanks for broadening my horizons John
P., they are NOT Chinese, they are proper Taiwan stuff
Haven't bothered opening one up, but feel quite sturdy anyway. I bought them as they were branded Osculati as MM points, they were reasonably priced (not the cheapest available and not stupid expensive) and the switch itself felt very solid and well rated at 15A at 24V. Bearing in mind they'll probably be sitting all their life in a nice warm environment (lower helm even now is 20C with 10C outside, reaches 45 easily during the summer) in the AUTO position I doubt they'll ever fail. Only thing I'm not sure is if they lightup when bilge pump in operating (would be a useful addition, may drill them up and install a small indicator bulb not sure and definitely not now)
Off to Brussels on Friday so got to manage and find a few hours to brief George in doing some cabinetry work while I'm away.
On my Garmin chartplotter and autopilot front, a lot more reading and still unsure of certain details. Good thing is that my neighbor with the P45 is happy to buy the GPSMAP 3006C for what I paid for (plus cards/reader) - that's around 300euro. Bad thing is that I need to get a NMEA0183 gps mushroom for it and the cheapest no name I've found on ebay is almost 100euro. No s/h around for some reason, what do ppl do with their old mushrooms? leave them up the radar arch indefinitely???
Anyone got one going cheap, I'm interested!
Wasn't planning to use one myself, as having a N2K network I can get 0183 signals from a GMI10 to the 3006C, but he's got some ancient stuff I think Raymarine and I'm not even sure there's any backbone or other way to get the data across.
cheers
V.
MapisM
Well-known member
V, I suspect that most folks who upgrade their onboard electronics just throw the old stuff away, particularly those things (as the gps mushrooms) that are inevitably in lousy conditions, after years of exposure in the sun.
In fact, I sympathize with you, because also my old Navionics plotter is connected to a NMEA183 mushroom that occasionally just stops working.
I also had a look around the web and couldn't find any at a sensible price, so for the moment I just kept the existing one.
After all, whenever it starts misbehaving, I always have onboard the notebook with its own (and more updated!) charts, interfaced with the smartphone GPS, so that's a completely redundant system, just in case.
And these days, most of the time I'm cruising in waters that I know like the back of my hand anyway...
vas
Well-known member
V, I suspect that most folks who upgrade their onboard electronics just throw the old stuff away, particularly those things (as the gps mushrooms) that are inevitably in lousy conditions, after years of exposure in the sun.
In fact, I sympathize with you, because also my old Navionics plotter is connected to a NMEA183 mushroom that occasionally just stops working.
I also had a look around the web and couldn't find any at a sensible price, so for the moment I just kept the existing one.
After all, whenever it starts misbehaving, I always have onboard the notebook with its own (and more updated!) charts, interfaced with the smartphone GPS, so that's a completely redundant system, just in case.
And these days, most of the time I'm cruising in waters that I know like the back of my hand anyway...
Quite right, I put up a post in the wanted section just in case. I've only found a half painted red
and with cable cut 5cm off the mushroom from the States but that still will set me back over 50euro...Anyway, got the panel back in the boat this evening, test fitted it and it looks perfect, quite pleased:
I'll get it fully connected and leave it there for the time being, I'll also line up the "floor" so to speak next to it and wait for the final decision and purchase of the chartplotter I'll use before drilling holes and finilising the slanted panel.
Spent a good two hours with George designing and detailing the galley ex-charttable cabinets. Should end up looking great as we have lots of 10mm thick by 120mm wide 2m long planks of iroko that will be joined together and epoxied on a 6mm ply. Further he'll sort out some solid 16mm thick edging and get the whole wrap around the oven done in one go. Having the dash (whatever you'd call the under the windscreens flat panel) in place, we calculated the size of the folding up door panel and sorted out how the massive central drawer will work. Difficult to visualize, will have to wait for the pics I'm afraid.
He also got the necessary mocks and side panel for the galley above sink cabinet. I hope there's going to be some progress by the time I'm back.
cheers
V.
wakeup
Active member
Looks great Vas.
Is that snake skin on the helm seating in the first picture? Was that original spec?
Is that snake skin on the helm seating in the first picture? Was that original spec?
vas
Well-known member
thanks wakeup,
yep, genuine fake snake skin that is. Actually the WHOLE bleeding salon is covered in that ****...
Previous owner's mate was very proud for the job that he did. No idea what was originally there.
Needless to say it's going in the skip. You want some FOC?
It's in surprising good nick for all these years, haven't even managed to tear it will all the tools and stuff I've thrown at it!
Not quite sure how I'm going to reupholster (or rather redo!) the lot, but the cushions on the sofa are really fluffy, deformed and awful, so looks like a rebuilt job is needed there as well.
cheers
V
wakeup
Active member
Well I think the snake skin is ahead of its time and should be kept!
Thanks for the offer, it would certainly make my Jeanneau Leader unique, i doubt there are other snake skin coverer 805s out there. Perhaps I should as I am about to put her on the market I should be following JFMs rules of making a boat unique.
Thanks for the offer, it would certainly make my Jeanneau Leader unique, i doubt there are other snake skin coverer 805s out there. Perhaps I should as I am about to put her on the market I should be following JFMs rules of making a boat unique.
jfm
Well-known member
Yep, good plan wakeup. Snake and Croc is where it's at. I have snakeskin on the bed trims on my boat - the only sq78 with this...Well I think the snake skin is ahead of its time and should be kept!
Thanks for the offer, it would certainly make my Jeanneau Leader unique, i doubt there are other snake skin coverer 805s out there. Perhaps I should as I am about to put her on the market I should be following JFMs rules of making a boat unique.
...and croc skin on the dining table and bedroom bureau
All fake of course
benjenbav
Well-known member
Sorry: this is off message in oh so many ways: I have a friend who has a sealskin waistcoat (which is not fake). He was wearing it at a wedding and was approached by a clergyman who asked if he could stroke it. To which my friend replied: "Go ahead, I haven't been touched by a vicar since prep school."
vas
Well-known member
You guys are really really awful,
You're now going to have me go and remove carefully the helm seat, steam clean it to make sure that there's no damage done after 3yrs of rebuilt work!
I'll think about it and ask wife's opinion/permission
John, I can very well see the point of having that as a feature, but not bleeding everywhere! So, I'm definitely dumping the sofa skin though, so open to offers, since it's such trendy material, the FOC offer is over! 100euro/sqm now!
cheers
V.
You're now going to have me go and remove carefully the helm seat, steam clean it to make sure that there's no damage done after 3yrs of rebuilt work!
I'll think about it and ask wife's opinion/permission
John, I can very well see the point of having that as a feature, but not bleeding everywhere! So, I'm definitely dumping the sofa skin though, so open to offers, since it's such trendy material, the FOC offer is over! 100euro/sqm now!
cheers
V.
wakeup
Active member
You guys are really really awful,
the FOC offer is over! 100euro/sqm now!
cheers
V.
Vas that is about equivalent of 5 of our English pounds the way to euro is going at the moment. You could make some nice cowboy boots out of the sofa
BartW
Well-known member
good going on the dashboard assembling
unfortunately I could't propose a meeting (that we discussed about years ago ;-) )
as tonight I have a company dinner,
and tomorrow and sunday other obligations
don't know how long you stay here ?
dont forget to give a sign the next occasion, as you do regular visits to Belgium I believe ?
unfortunately I could't propose a meeting (that we discussed about years ago ;-) )
as tonight I have a company dinner,
and tomorrow and sunday other obligations
don't know how long you stay here ?
dont forget to give a sign the next occasion, as you do regular visits to Belgium I believe ?
vas
Well-known member
Haven't being up here for some time Bart, and it was a last minute decision anyway (bought my ticket on Wednesday...).
Currently stuck in a meeting closely followed by dinner.
Tomorrow I'm finishing the meeting early lunchtime and then I have to be to Luxemburg for the night. Probably have some time for a lunchtime espresso
Staying there and flying back to Greece on Monday morning. So doesn't seem to be any time left anywhere there
Should try to organize something next time I'm up here, will give you a shout indeed!
cheers
V.
PS. no progress report other than that George set up the iroko strips for laminating on a 6mm marine ply in one whole 200cmX57cm strip that will measure cut mitre and built the cabinet next week. Still a few details to finalize, that's bedtime work, so fun!
Divemaster1
Well-known member
Same heritage ?
Still impressed with the progress Vas !!
Sorry about the thread drift .... but just FYI as I came across this one ... As mentioned before, I am fairly certain our boats share same heritage.... in 1979 CentroMarine made a 44 footer (Open SS and Fly S) ... and the 44 Fly looks even more like the Versilcraft Mystere and JCL's Mystere/Mirage than what our 1983 45 footer does...
Still impressed with the progress Vas !!
Sorry about the thread drift .... but just FYI as I came across this one ... As mentioned before, I am fairly certain our boats share same heritage.... in 1979 CentroMarine made a 44 footer (Open SS and Fly S) ... and the 44 Fly looks even more like the Versilcraft Mystere and JCL's Mystere/Mirage than what our 1983 45 footer does...