divonic
New member
I have run out of ideas, I have read lots of threads without seeing my particular problem, so I'm turning to the community ...
1980 Volvo MD5A, raw-water cooled, flexible impeller water pump. Seacock at top of Saildrive 110S, new transparent hoses, 18" hose from seacock to pump, 12" hose from pump to engine block. Pump is above sea-level. No raw water filter (that's a different issue, but the Saildrive has a grating and it's quite deep).
Last season, our first year, I replaced the impeller using the Volvo Kit 3586496 that includes the paper gasket for the plate. It would not self prime, i.e. no water when the engine started after launch. I primed it 'manually' by taking the hose off the engine block, sucking water (yes, with my mouth) to above the pump and replacing the hose. Then it worked fine while the engine was running. Same problem next time the engine was started. I had kept the old impeller because it was in perfect condition, so I compared the two and could not see any difference between them. I put the old impeller back in, and after initial priming as above it worked fine - so I shrugged and went sailing a lot.
This season, same sequence, same problem with two differences - sometimes it sucks the water up and sometimes it doesn't - and I'm talking about after a few hours sailing, or sitting in the marina ... and the old impeller was showing signs of wear so I had binned it (pity about that in retrospect).
I've got smarter about the manual priming - I used to do it with engine running, meaning I got a faceful until I jammed the hose back onto the engine - now I suck it up with engine off, close the seacock, start the engine and open the seacock. There's never a problem once it's running through.
If I close the seacock and try to suck I get nothing. If I suck up the water, close the seacock and leave it, the water stays put (transparent hose).
So in my analysis there's no blockage and no leak.
Q1. I shouldn't be able to suck water through the pump if it's not rotating, should I? It needs a strong suck but it does come through. You'd think there must be a gap in the pump, but I checked and the impeller face is aligned with the front of the pump where the gasket & plate screw on. So what's happening?
Q2. a flexible impeller pump is supposed to be self-priming, right? So it should not matter if it’s sitting with air in it (it only has to lift water about 4 or 5”)?
Q3. would you expect the water to fall back through the pump to sea-level when the engine is switched off – or given there’s a water-trap on the exhaust, should it stay put because there’s a seal stopping air getting into the cooling system through the exhaust (the only way in)?
Thanks in anticipation for any ideas – it’s driving me crazy. I have a workaround, but not for when I need the engine in a hurry, and I’m fed up with being a contortionist in the engine compartment – she’s a Jaguar 25 and there’s not a lot of space.
1980 Volvo MD5A, raw-water cooled, flexible impeller water pump. Seacock at top of Saildrive 110S, new transparent hoses, 18" hose from seacock to pump, 12" hose from pump to engine block. Pump is above sea-level. No raw water filter (that's a different issue, but the Saildrive has a grating and it's quite deep).
Last season, our first year, I replaced the impeller using the Volvo Kit 3586496 that includes the paper gasket for the plate. It would not self prime, i.e. no water when the engine started after launch. I primed it 'manually' by taking the hose off the engine block, sucking water (yes, with my mouth) to above the pump and replacing the hose. Then it worked fine while the engine was running. Same problem next time the engine was started. I had kept the old impeller because it was in perfect condition, so I compared the two and could not see any difference between them. I put the old impeller back in, and after initial priming as above it worked fine - so I shrugged and went sailing a lot.
This season, same sequence, same problem with two differences - sometimes it sucks the water up and sometimes it doesn't - and I'm talking about after a few hours sailing, or sitting in the marina ... and the old impeller was showing signs of wear so I had binned it (pity about that in retrospect).
I've got smarter about the manual priming - I used to do it with engine running, meaning I got a faceful until I jammed the hose back onto the engine - now I suck it up with engine off, close the seacock, start the engine and open the seacock. There's never a problem once it's running through.
If I close the seacock and try to suck I get nothing. If I suck up the water, close the seacock and leave it, the water stays put (transparent hose).
So in my analysis there's no blockage and no leak.
Q1. I shouldn't be able to suck water through the pump if it's not rotating, should I? It needs a strong suck but it does come through. You'd think there must be a gap in the pump, but I checked and the impeller face is aligned with the front of the pump where the gasket & plate screw on. So what's happening?
Q2. a flexible impeller pump is supposed to be self-priming, right? So it should not matter if it’s sitting with air in it (it only has to lift water about 4 or 5”)?
Q3. would you expect the water to fall back through the pump to sea-level when the engine is switched off – or given there’s a water-trap on the exhaust, should it stay put because there’s a seal stopping air getting into the cooling system through the exhaust (the only way in)?
Thanks in anticipation for any ideas – it’s driving me crazy. I have a workaround, but not for when I need the engine in a hurry, and I’m fed up with being a contortionist in the engine compartment – she’s a Jaguar 25 and there’s not a lot of space.