Mariner Outboard

[markju]

Hi. I have just picked up a small GRP dinghy and outboard for not very many of my pounds and am quite pleased with the dinghy. Going to use it to take my nephew fishing in the local rivers etc.
The problem is with the outboard, which was kind of chucked into the deal almost as an afterthought.
Its a Mariner 2 (2hp?) serial number 646-018322. I believe this was the same as the yamaha of that era?
its not seized but is going to need a bit of fettling i think.
Does anyone know of a website where i can gather a bit more info particulary a diagram of the internals etc.
Dont mind putting a little time in this as i got it quite cheaply but at the same time dont want to flog a dead horse.

 

[sailorman]

Hi. I have just picked up a small GRP dinghy and outboard for not very many of my pounds and am quite pleased with the dinghy. Going to use it to take my nephew fishing in the local rivers etc.
The problem is with the outboard, which was kind of chucked into the deal almost as an afterthought.
Its a Mariner 2 (2hp?) serial number 646-018322. I believe this was the same as the yamaha of that era?
its not seized but is going to need a bit of fettling i think.
Does anyone know of a website where i can gather a bit more info particulary a diagram of the internals etc.
Dont mind putting a little time in this as i got it quite cheaply but at the same time dont want to flog a dead horse.

Vic will be along soon
mariner, yam et al were all Tohatsu engines re-badged

 

[Lakesailor]

It'll be fine. I have a very old Tohatsu (same thing) Mine doesn't have gears but the Tohatsu dealer can't tell me if it's 2 hp or 3.5 as it seems none of the early ones had gears. It doesn't even have a serial number.

You will find a directory here with various pics of the internals and also the items titled "section" plus a number, are exploded diagrams.

If it turns out not to be the same motor I'll be surprised, and you'll need to look elsewhere.

 

[markju]

It'll be fine. I have a very old Tohatsu (same thing) Mine doesn't have gears but the Tohatsu dealer can't tell me if it's 2 hp or 3.5 as it seems none of the early ones had gears. It doesn't even have a serial number.

You will find a directory here with various pics of the internals and also the items titled "section" plus a number, are exploded diagrams.

If it turns out not to be the same motor I'll be surprised, and you'll need to look elsewhere.

That looks just like the little blighter thank you.

 

[30boat]

If your engine is the same as the Mercury I can email you the workshop manual.

 

[markju]

If your engine is the same as the Mercury I can email you the workshop manual.

I believe it is. Thats very kind of you thank you.

PM sent (hopefully)

 

[KREW2]

Mine ran well for 6 years with very little maintenance, so this year I put in a new impeller, and cleaned out the waterways.
Two months later I went to start it and it had seized. I stripped it down and and found it was the main bearing. After working it loose and reassembling it started first pull, and runs well, but it does sound a bit rough.
Maybe it will be better if I run it on a stronger mixture?

 

[VicS]

646-18322 makes it a Japaneses model from ca 1978 or 79

I think you may be right in believing that they were re-badged Yamahas in those days.

Youll find exploded diagrams at http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Mariner/2A/646-31100 AND BELOW/parts.html

You should be able to download an owners manual from http://download.brunswick-marine.co...isnew/desc?mod=4&lang=EN&categories=OUTBOARD$ Its not always easy to find the right one though

?? if the link works http://download.brunswick-marine.com/filereader/file/pdf/4/enen/outboard/1985/mariner/43897r85.pdf but its a big file

 

[markju]

Thanks for the replies. Just what i was i looking for.

 

[Lakesailor]

Mine ran well for 6 years with very little maintenance, so this year I put in a new impeller, and cleaned out the waterways.
Two months later I went to start it and it had seized. I stripped it down and and found it was the main bearing. After working it loose and reassembling it started first pull, and runs well, but it does sound a bit rough.
Maybe it will be better if I run it on a stronger mixture?

If you are using 100:1 you are short-changing it. Use 50:1
I replaced the top main bearing (under the flywheel). If yours is still a bit rough maybe the bearing you didn't do needs changing.

 

[VicS]

If you are using 100:1 you are short-changing it. Use 50:1
I replaced the top main bearing (under the flywheel). If yours is still a bit rough maybe the bearing you didn't do needs changing.

The manual says 50:1

the similar/ identical Yamaha was badged up as 100:1

 

[markju]

Well...short update. First of all thanks to everyone who replied.
Cleaned the points and plug and got a nice spark.
Cleaned a bit of gunk out of the carb and stuck some fresh fuel in.
Put a 17mm socket into my cordless, that takes care of winding the beast over, electric start now!
Started and ran quite well but zero water output. Checked the impellor - that was past its best so a new one in there, and cleaned all the waterways out in the block, (found that info on this forum after a search), every way was cock full of salt, and now it runs quite nicely. Think the gasket is playing up on the waterpump as a lot of water came out of the exhaust although some also came out of the water outlet holes below the engine so at least it seems to be circulating nicely.
After running for about ten minutes, the head was hot but not so hot that i could not keep my hand against it. Is that about normal?

I have to say i,ve quite enjoyed playing around with this over the last couple of evenings.

 

[Lakesailor]

If it's overheating you won't be able to put your hand on the head without going "ouch". Most of the water should be coming out of the exhaust. The little holes are just for reducing back pressure and steam will show there if you are overheating.

Most outboards will show up their problems better after a 15 minute run under load, on the boat.

That's your next step.

 

[Seajet]

I have one of these; the water from the outlet should never get above cold / luke warm when putting a hand under it.

They do clog up with salt, requiring a good flush through with fresh water as frequently as possible, and the head off in the winter to check and clear the waterways.

 

[Ben Dockrell 22]

With the cost of powerful outboards easily going into the tens of thousands of pounds it becomes very worthwhile to learn about building these motors from scratch or getting components from those bought as damaged.

 

[CreakyDecks]

I think you've got your profile location wrong Ben.

 

[Ben Dockrell 22]

I think you've got your profile location wrong Ben.

As your post is rude would you kindly withdraw it ?

 

[CreakyDecks]

Not rude at all, just curious. In the last half an hour you have suggested that 1.2mm wall thickness stainless tubing is a suitable material for making deck fixings and that old 2hp outboards might cost tens of thousands of pounds. Neither of these things are remotely true on planet Earth.

 

[Ben Dockrell 22]

You just fabricated that lie completely. goodbye

 

[Steve Clayton]

Not rude at all, just curious. In the last half an hour you have suggested that 1.2mm wall thickness stainless tubing is a suitable material for making deck fixings and that old 2hp outboards might cost tens of thousands of pounds. Neither of these things are remotely true on planet Earth.

It may be Planet Earth in a parallel universe where it's all topsy-turvy. That said I'm perfectly happy where I am.