Lubricating ideas - YSB8

Hereward

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My old Yanmar YSB8 has the 2-lever control system (a big one for the gear change and a small one for the throttle).
I wanted to replace with a single lever system but it seems that cannot be done, so I am trying to make the best of what I have.
The problem is the friction between the two levers. This means that when going from neutral to forward, the throttle also gets pushed forward. More annoyingly, when going out of forward and into reverse, the throttle gets pulled right back, often stopping the motor completely.
Thus I need a hand on each lever, and another on the tiller when trying to manoeuvre in the marina - that's one more than I have available.

I cannot find any workshop info for this control system. It's not obvious how to dismantle it for cleaning. Does anyone know if there should be a bush between the levers to keep them apart. Or any suggestions for a good lubricant that isn’t going to result in goo getting smeared around the cockpit?

Thanks
 

NickRobinson

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I think you can use a single lever Morse-type OK. I had a single lever YSM.
You may need to re-route or use longer cables. (not expensive)
BTW, I just happen to have a surface mount single lever on a nail in my garage...
 

earlybird

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My YSE8 in a Tomahawk had 2 separate levers, so no interaction, but still a PITA for manoeuvring. Sorry, not much help.
Edit, Just read previous post. Surprised to hear of use of single lever. My YSE8 gearbox had too much travel and load for that IIRC.
 
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davidmh

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I had the two lever system on a Trapper 500 and it was very easy to use, I never found the gear lever was moving the throttle. if i remember you can easily take the levers apart and lubricate the spindles mine were really free once you disconnected the cables. The beauty of the two lever system is close quarter work you set the throttle to just give you steerage and then flick the gear in and out to ease your way about.

David MH
 

RichardS

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I had the two lever system on a Trapper 500 and it was very easy to use, I never found the gear lever was moving the throttle. if i remember you can easily take the levers apart and lubricate the spindles mine were really free once you disconnected the cables. The beauty of the two lever system is close quarter work you set the throttle to just give you steerage and then flick the gear in and out to ease your way about.

David MH

I wouldn't have thought it generally advisable to engage and disengage gears at anything other than engine idle speed but I guess it depends upon what type of gearbox/clutch mechanism one has.

Richard
 

Spyro

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Can't help with your question but i know the set up. I once had a surveyor tell me the throttle needed adjustment as every time he pulled it back the engine cut out.
 

scottie

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Single lever will not work
There are 2or 3 types of control that were used at that time
Morse MJ or MjB which has two curved cast levers and can be stripped and cleaned the B had a brake on the throttle for exactly the problem you have. It used 1 33c cable and a 64c heavy for gear.
Teleflex D4 which has round rod type handles and may? Have had a brake again the you can strip and clean the bushes
There was a 3rd type that I can’t recall the make that used same cables as the MJ
There were also brakes available to put drag on the throttle cable which were actually cycle cable ones
 

Hereward

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Thanks to all for the replies. Looks like I will simply have to take it apart and clean it up.
I can imagine that if the levers were free to move independently, the system is workable using a fixed throttle setting for manoeuvres.
I have seen from earlier forum discussions that these early Yanmars cannot be converted to single lever because of the gearbox travel needed.

I think from Scottie's description above I might have the Teleflex D4 (tubular rods with black plastic spheres?) - I have been trying hard to upload a photo but I have to admit defeat.
 

Tranona

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I wouldn't have thought it generally advisable to engage and disengage gears at anything other than engine idle speed but I guess it depends upon what type of gearbox/clutch mechanism one has.

Richard

Twin lever controls like this are still popular in the US, particularly on MOBOs as it is easier to steer a twin engine boat with the engines at low speed. Throttle at tickover and move in and out of gear with the gear lever. In the early days of small diesel auxiliaries as when the YSB8 was built single lever were new so existing twin levers were used to suit the gearbox. For low speed work the same technique was used - engine at tickover (very low, 500 rpm or so) and gear moved in and out to control speed and direction.

How things have changed in the last 50 years, but for some of us it is all in living memory!
 

RichardS

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Twin lever controls like this are still popular in the US, particularly on MOBOs as it is easier to steer a twin engine boat with the engines at low speed. Throttle at tickover and move in and out of gear with the gear lever. In the early days of small diesel auxiliaries as when the YSB8 was built single lever were new so existing twin levers were used to suit the gearbox. For low speed work the same technique was used - engine at tickover (very low, 500 rpm or so) and gear moved in and out to control speed and direction.

How things have changed in the last 50 years, but for some of us it is all in living memory!

Indeed ..... but as you say, moving in and out of gear at idle, the same principle as a single control. Setting an engine speed above idle and then engaging and disengaging gear does not seem generally advisable.

Richard
 

lw395

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Indeed ..... but as you say, moving in and out of gear at idle, the same principle as a single control. Setting an engine speed above idle and then engaging and disengaging gear does not seem generally advisable.

Richard

If we are really jsut talking about 'fast idle', it's no big deal.
If it engages with a bang, you're over doing it.
 
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The shorter throttle stick can be released by undoing the single nut on the back end of the shaft. No need to undo the grub screw. The throttle shaft and lever will then slide out front with help of WD40. Seizing come from white powdry alloy breakdown inside shaft. Scrubbed and greased mine to free it up from binding gear leaver. Gear lever needs grub scew undoing so shaft and box will come out from rear to work on.
Single, dual control Teleflex type control will work if you fit additional cable pull system, same as the compression pull lever, but this needs linking to the diesel governor to act as the engine stop. You may need to change the gear cable for a type C33.
Good luck, if not already sorted.
Peter
 
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