Lithium battery system lessons

geem

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This week, I have been sorting out problems on professionally installed lithium battery system on a friends boat here in Antigua. The system is 7 years old. It was very nicely installed and would have been considered state of the art at the time.
It reminded me why complex is not the same as reliable.

Its a 12v system using 16 Winston cells of 200Ah each. Its built as a single battery with 4 cells connected in parallel, then series wired such that you get an effective 800Ah cell x 4.
The BMS is a contactor type by REC with a charge bus and a seperate discharge bus.
The REC selling point is that is can communicate with the Victron MPPT, GX display and the Quattro inverter via canbus. It also has its own REC mini display.
Engine alternators charge the lithium directly using their own inbuilt temperature sensing. They have no external regulator.

The downside of this system is you have numerous single points of failure. One battery and all the ancillaries that go with that mean that when it goes wrong, you go dark ship.

Things we found.
The bms uses RS485 and canbus to communicate. In a marine environment these multi-pin connectors need to be waterproof. We had voltage drops and canbus failure due to numerous bad connections.
The huge 800Ah cells can't easily be balanced by the REC 2A active balancer.
When canbus goes wrong due to poor connections all across the system ( mppt canbus connection, GX connection, REC bms connections were all faulty) numerous faults and miss information occur. (Note that the boat is dry and free from obvious moisture. Everything looks pristine).
The mppt wasn't getting the correct voltage from the BMS via canbus. It thought the batteries were at 14.5V when they were actually at 13.7V so it stopped charging early. It doesn't seem to have done any meaningful cell balancing for a long time.
Cell 3 was hitting a 250mV difference and the BMS tripped in the middle of the night, causing an audible alarm to go off on the Victron GX display that wasn't possible to mute without pulling the wires out of the back of the GX.
My pal had to sleep with a torch by his bed and get up to remove the wires before going back to bed.

We are currently using a benchtop power supply to raise cell 3 voltage. It been installed since yesterday morning and is still going at 4A, 3.6v. The cell voltage has gone up so we didnt get the 0.25v cell differential alarm going off over night.
We have a WiFi module on route from the USA so we can interrogate all the settings in the BMS and determine what we need to change. When the battery was built and the REC BMS was installed, it was considered that the owner wouldn't want access to the BMS settings.

If it was my own boat, I would disassemble the cells to make 4 seperate 200A batteries at 200Ah each at 12v. I would use a JK BMS on each cell and wire the batteries with an isolator each and a class T fuses each.
I would install a Victron Dc/Dc chargers for each engine and do away with the canbus communication.
We currently have the Victron MPPT using a newly installed Victron smart shunt independently of the RECs own shunt. This bit works well.
Canbus has added nothing to the reliability of this system. In fact, we found that if we unplug the GX display the REC BMS will not boot up. An add on to the system should not stop the REC BMS from functioning.

Multiple batteries with their own bms would provide resilience that this current system does not have.
Letting the MPPT control their own charge provides and independent method of charging that doesn't rely on canbus.
Ditto DC/DC chargers on each engine.
In my opinion, the BMS should only look after the safety of the battery. Asking it to do other tasks put all your eggs in one basket.

REC are based in Slovenia with an agent in the USA. When you are in Antigua, excellent service back-up or redundancy are your only two options. For this location, redundancy is the better option
 
Back in 2020 when I was learning about LFP, the conventional wisdom was to use separate contactors, and the idea of running all the current through the BMS itself was generally considered a bad idea.
I came up with a plan that was somewhere in-between: I bought a 120A BMS (the biggest I could get at the time) and planned to run most loads that, but I also bought a relay which would handle the inverter, which is far and away the biggest load. I can't remember the exact details but there was a way to trip the relay off the back of the BMS.

I never did install the relay. I did a 'temporary' installation with everything going through the BMS, and just lived with the 120A limit. After a year I upgraded to a 200A version, and about a year after that added a second battery with another 200A BMS.

It's all about as simple as you can get, and it works flawlessly.

I think in the early days of LFP there was a real tendency to overcomplicate things...
 
Would it be fair to say that lithium systems have evolved and a new, professional installation would not have these pitfalls?
I think one of the biggest things is that the cells have become so much cheaper. That changes how you approach things. You don't need a gold plated system that ensures that no harm can ever come to those precious cells. You don't need them to last twenty years to make economic sense. You can also have a much bigger bank now which solves a lot of high current issues.
I don't think the high current BMSs were available five years ago, so if you wanted to run anything that was using a lot of power, you did need to go with an external contactor.
 
Would it be fair to say that lithium systems have evolved and a new, professional installation would not have these pitfalls?
If you went the route of REC BMS using contactors, not much has changed. There are still plenty of single points of failure.
The system is way too complex.
Yesterday we discovered the charge contactor was opening such that the MPPT stopped charging. It is initiated by the fact we still have a cell with a greater that 250mV difference. Its going to take a few days to get the 800Ah cell up to the same state of charge at the other cells.
The BMS trips the contactor to stop charging. It comes up with a fault code that tells us its high volt differential. The fault clears on the display but the contactor won't reset until the volt difference drops to 150mV. Until you realise this is what happening, all you are aware of is the contactor won't close.
There is nothing to tell you the contactor is open. It would be far nicer to have contactor status on the REC display.
The open contactor is not a great way to control MPPT output. Its still connected to the PV but not the battery. I suspect this is what killed the old MPPT. Continuous disconnect from a 250mV cell difference.
 
KISS

Generally good BMS have got better and most people have larger packs with multiple BMS which allow high loads and redundancy so much of the "extra" level protection is non needed. My 1260 ah bank can run 800 amps on the current JK BMS (x4) which is more than I have ever needed but today I can order 4X300 amp rated JK BMS so run higher loads still. 10 Years ago none of this was possible with simple, cheap, off the shelf stuff - today it's routine.

I am a paid up luddite in many ways - no canbus on my boat, no Czone etc, no automation of systems that I can check myself in seconds each day and it has never failed, never been offline for even a second in at leat 5-6 years of constant daily use, never even blown a fuse - simple , strong and with redundancy is the way to go.
 
KISS

Generally good BMS have got better and most people have larger packs with multiple BMS which allow high loads and redundancy so much of the "extra" level protection is non needed. My 1260 ah bank can run 800 amps on the current JK BMS (x4) which is more than I have ever needed but today I can order 4X300 amp rated JK BMS so run higher loads still. 10 Years ago none of this was possible with simple, cheap, off the shelf stuff - today it's routine.

I am a paid up luddite in many ways - no canbus on my boat, no Czone etc, no automation of systems that I can check myself in seconds each day and it has never failed, never been offline for even a second in at leat 5-6 years of constant daily use, never even blown a fuse - simple , strong and with redundancy is the way to go.
Ditto
 
I think in the early days of LFP there was a real tendency to overcomplicate things...
I don't think that was an early days thing so much as a people on the Internet thing. There are still lots of overcomplicated designs out there that somehow add no resilience despite the complexity.

Nice to see discussions on how to approach simplifying things, especially with older setups that have loads of life left in them. If this was lead you might be installing the third set of batteries by now!
 
As Geem said in post #1, each battery should have its own BMS, fuse and isolator. Any solar just goes the the LFP. Separate mains charger for LFP too. Dc-DC charger to charge from the engine.

Fit an emergency start solution, which should also give you backup power for the domestics, in the unlikely event you lose all of the LFP. For small engined boats an emergency parallel switch or solenoid works OK, for bigger engines a BMS bypass can be fitted. Giving due care to prevent accidental use of either.

All very simple and very robust.
 
Don’t write off contactor-based BMSs just yet; they’re still a lot more robust than mosfets in this situation. For example, a Blue Sea 7700 contactor is rated for 1450A for 30s.

I agree with keeping things simple. Here’s the complete wiring diagram for our house battery system. And since the battery easily powers a bowthruster, windlasses etc., boat wiring is also kept simple. A separate lead acid battery starts the engine, but the house battery could do this if it was ever needed.


mBMS Wiring 01.jpg
 
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