Leaving Outboard on Boat.

[jimbouy]

(Why does this forum only crap out when I have made a long old post??)

Ok. Up to now (three weeks) I have been leaving my OB on its bracket with the engine tilted up, between sails... which looks like it will be 2 weeks at a time.

But there is not enough "tilt" to actually get it right out of the water. So for a couple of hours either side of HT the prop and a couple of inches of shaft are in the water.

Is this likely to harm the engine?

Should i add a storage bracket to a rail so it is out of the water.... it would also allow me to hose it down easilly.

Finnally, during the sailing season should I try and flush it with fresh water and if so how often.

Jim

<hr width=100% size=1> "It is a pleasure to give advice, humiliating to need it, normal to ignore it"

 

[LORDNELSON]

1. I would be inclined to keep it clear of the water in order to reduce the chance of weed/molluscs etc growing in the water inlet/passages.
2. How secure is your outboard? I would not like to leave my outboard on my boat's transom (Solent area).
3. I flush mine out as often as possible, my club has the necessary tank and stand for doing this; it is best to flush as soon as possible after use to get rid of the salt before it crystellises and sticks itself to the cooling water passageways.

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[jimbouy]

Mi Lord.

1) Just as I thought.

2) Best i don't give too much away..

3) No flushing facilities in the harbour, but I think a flushing device is avaliable which attaches near the top of the leg.

<hr width=100% size=1> "It is a pleasure to give advice, humiliating to need it, normal to ignore it"

 

[freebird1]

I found the same thing with the outboard on my last boat. I used a wooden chock to tilt it further. This kept it out of the drink when not in use.

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[Talbot]

If you do decide to leave it drooping in the water, I would recommend attaching a decent size anode to the outboard (dropped over on a piece of wire would be sufficient) as otherwise you may find that the lower half of the leg is not quite as strong as it used to be /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

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[William_H]

Considering the dificulty of flushing the motor I think it is acceptable to not flush it. However you may have to discover how to dismantle and clear out water passages at a later date. i can lift my ob clear of the water by increrasing the tilt with a few turns of rope under the back of the power head tied up to the pushpit regards ole will

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[William_H]

Considering the dificulty of flushing the motor I think it is acceptable to not flush it. However you may have to discover how to dismantle and clear out water passages at a later date. i can lift my ob clear of the water by increrasing the tilt with a few turns of rope under the back of the power head tied up to the pushpit In my case the ob stays at home secure and I rely on sails. regards ole will

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[extravert]

I used to have this problem on my Extravert. There was space to tilt it further, but not so far as to lock it in the highest position so that it was out of the water completely. I fashioned a chock to hold it up high enough from an old brush head with the bristles cut off.

As well as fouling problems, outboard legs can suffer from corrosion. They are made from cast aluminum, and marine-corrosion-resistant aluminum cannot be cast, so they are made from not-too-corrosion-resistant aluminum instead. An anode and paint will slow the degredation, but not for ever.

If you can find some way to get it out of the water, it will be much better for it.

<hr width=100% size=1>One day, I want to be a real sailor. In the mean time I'll just keep tri-ing.

 

[jimbouy]

I shall initially fashion a wooden prop.

But then I think I will consider making up a bracket to go on a rail. I wondered if i could come up with a bracket that also acted as a security device by locking around the fixing clamps.

<hr width=100% size=1> "It is a pleasure to give advice, humiliating to need it, normal to ignore it"

 

[Gordonmc]

The outboard on my Hurley 22 lived permanently in a well. Because of the confines of the well it would not tilt at all and taking it out was a pain (literally).
The leg did not come to any harm as used the trailing anode method and annually painted and hard-antifouled.
It might be worth using a prop bag. Normally used on outdrives they prevent marine growth by keeping out light. Won't help with the corrosion risk, though.

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[Guest]

Common problem ...

Look around your local boat area and count the number of bigger OB'd engine power boats with legs in / bits just in ..... no flushing except when boat is lifted etc.

Ideally the engine should be out of water and flushed after every trip.
If not then - a regular program of lift off - flush and put back is not a bad idea ..... if you have space to lock it to a bracket on pushpit rail - even better.

But hinestly - I know its not best - but many have this problem ....... do the most often flush of engine etc. and clean off of the bottom part of leg that you can .......

DO NOT ANTI-FOUL the leg in any way - except with specially made AF paint for outboards ......


<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ... and of course Yahoo groups :
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gps-navigator/

 

[cliff]

I lock mine to board on safety rails and use a deep rectangular plastic tank to flush out so no need to remove from the boat. I used an old rigid 5 gallon water tank cut down to make the flushing tank which sits nicely on the lazerette lid with the engine clamped to the rail above. - This arangement will only work if you have a neutral gear on your outboard.

When I leave the boat the outboard goes inside out of sight. I would not leave it in the water on in plain view.

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[VicS]

The time I had an outboard engine stolen it was from the cabin. I now keep mine locked and chained to it's mounting bracket, although I have to admit that that is largely due to the fact that it seems to have got progressively heavier as the years have gone by and I can no longer lift it over the rail.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple>Ne te confundant illegitimi.</font color=purple>