KAD44P-B EDC+DP-E fault 3.4 actuator fault?
- Thread starter Sami1000
- Start date
volvopaul
Well-known member
Have you checked the power supply fuse and the earth wire ?
Sami1000
New member
Thanks for answer. All cables and fuses are ok. I have measured them all and no bad connections, fuses or wires anywhere
petem
Well-known member
Have you had any battery issues lately or any other odd engine behaviour?
Is it a twin or single engine boat?
Sami1000
New member
No battery issues. Batteries are charged and in good working order. I have single engine.
Last season engine worked normally. I did have small issues with gears. Like neutral light was on, although gear was still engaged. It appeared sometimes and was annoying, but i didn’t think too much of it. This spring i got my dp-e from service and these problems started.
Last season engine worked normally. I did have small issues with gears. Like neutral light was on, although gear was still engaged. It appeared sometimes and was annoying, but i didn’t think too much of it. This spring i got my dp-e from service and these problems started.
volvopaul
Well-known member
The neutral switch is inside the actuator so I’d say the gears are worn to make the throw in the system not engaging the neutral switch , no neutral signal no start .
Sami1000
New member
it has been tested with a new actuator with no help. Same action than with old one. Old gears seem to be ok. Mechanism action is smooth and micro switches engage and disengage nicely.
Could this be ECU/EDC based problem? Don’t ask me how that’s possible, but i’m open for anything atm…
Could this be ECU/EDC based problem? Don’t ask me how that’s possible, but i’m open for anything atm…
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petem
Well-known member
Have you tried a throttle recalibration? Unlikely to be the culprit but worth a shot as it's free and easy.
Have you tried cleaning the ECU connectors? Likewise the throttle connectors.
Failing that, it could be the ECU
.Sami1000
New member
Oh yeah, thottle calibration is worth trying!
ECU connector seems to be ok same as throttle connection too. Well lubricated with some grease, but i will check those too.
ECU connector seems to be ok same as throttle connection too. Well lubricated with some grease, but i will check those too.
Sami1000
New member
Is it possible to recalibrate throttle if actuator is not changin gear?
Sami1000
New member
Ok, i’ve spent few hours trying to find problem. I only managed to find one faulty switch and it’s the Neutral-switch on that 3 switch combo.
After i changed Diagnosis and Neutral switches i got some near normal activity from actuator. It moved to neutral position and full ahead position and then back to reverse where it got stuck again.
Would that switch possibly be behind all this??
After i changed Diagnosis and Neutral switches i got some near normal activity from actuator. It moved to neutral position and full ahead position and then back to reverse where it got stuck again.
Would that switch possibly be behind all this??
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Sami1000
New member
And by changing switches i meant i swapped their places. I’m going to go buy ne ones first thing tomorrow
Sami1000
New member
Ok, i got old switch working again - luckily! New one would have cost a staggering 188,48€! But it wasn’t that.
I measured throttle with ohm meter and it showed 2,67Kohm at full throttle. 1,84Kohm at neutral and 1Kohm at full reverse.
I tried also throttle recalibrating. But couldn’t finish it. How exactly it should be done on 44P-B?
I measured throttle with ohm meter and it showed 2,67Kohm at full throttle. 1,84Kohm at neutral and 1Kohm at full reverse.
I tried also throttle recalibrating. But couldn’t finish it. How exactly it should be done on 44P-B?
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Sami1000
New member
thank you Mr googler, for instructions.
I did everything according to instruction below, but it didn’t work.
I put gear in neutral, turned ignition to S and let it spring back to ”0”.
Then depressed N button(no light) turn key to ”I” and hold until diagnosis light went out.
Next what should have happened was that N and D lights should have started blinking to conform. BUT instead my D and Active Station lights started blinking!
Has anybody any idea why my N-light is not turning on at all? Where does it get it’s control from, what am i missing here? Why my AS and D lights are blinking instead of N & D?
I did everything according to instruction below, but it didn’t work.
I put gear in neutral, turned ignition to S and let it spring back to ”0”.
Then depressed N button(no light) turn key to ”I” and hold until diagnosis light went out.
Next what should have happened was that N and D lights should have started blinking to conform. BUT instead my D and Active Station lights started blinking!
Has anybody any idea why my N-light is not turning on at all? Where does it get it’s control from, what am i missing here? Why my AS and D lights are blinking instead of N & D?
Attachments
petem
Well-known member
It does rather sound like it's a failed ECU.
Is there a VP engineer who could check everything again before you order an ECU?
There 's someone who posts on here who can repair ECU's if you want to save €3000 or however much they cost now.
Is there a VP engineer who could check everything again before you order an ECU?
There 's someone who posts on here who can repair ECU's if you want to save €3000 or however much they cost now.
Sami1000
New member
I truly hope it’s not that, but i do have mech who has access to Vodia… i guess that’s next step…
I am interested to hear about option of repairing. Does anyone have experience on that?
I am interested to hear about option of repairing. Does anyone have experience on that?
Sami1000
New member
Ok, mech stopped with Vodia and ecu/edc is only getting 0,2V. We couldn’t locate ecu’s fuse. It’s supposed to be under relay box on top of engine, but there was only superchargers 7,5A fuse. Any idea where it might be on 44P-B?
Mr Googler
Well-known member
There are 2 blade fuses usually…..one on top of the other with rubber flip tops
Sami1000
New member
Problem solved! My boat is equipped with EDC main switch witch was badly corroded and did not supply edc with 12V it needs. I cleaned switch and everything is ok again!
Thank you for everyone for your help!
Thank you for everyone for your help!