Kad 44 stopped won't turn

[gordmac]

Friend has a boat with twin kad 44 engines with outdrives. He has had problems with port engine not wanting to start cold. Fuel pump was overhauled, fault with sensor, code 2.2. After refitting the fault re occured after a while. A lot of time cranking when cold then picking up one cylinder at a time. Eventually it would turn over but not fire. At some point in the process it got a new lift pump. Injection pump was re checked and found to be ok. Was refitted and engine started but as it had to be bled no real way of judging how long it took. A few hours later, so engine not totally cold, it started but maybe after 10sec cranking but started ok. Run for a while then it stopped and wouldn't turn over. Previously when it would turn but not start. Foolishly no note of fault code taken. Power switched off for a while and it started. Left overnight to get cold but started, slowly with a bit of cranking, and ran ok for over an hour.
There is something not right with it, anyone any ideas? What would make it stop and then not turn over?
Any advice much appreciated.

 

[jrudge]

Does the solenoid click ?

I would start with battery state. If ok trigger starter manually and see if that turns it. It is a process of elimination.

Could be starter. Given the above seized engine would seem unlikely

 

[kashurst]

fuel shut off solenoid playing up? It is on the end of the fuel injection pump and is powered from the ECU. I think it has 12v applied to it when the engine is starting/running. I would check out what is happening with that. It is easy to swap them from one engine to the other too. I would also have a look at and get some good contact cleaner on the ECU connector and the fuel injection pump connector.
Then check out the flywheel sensor at the back of the engine. They can get rusty and not read properly.
I would also make sure the battery is well charged before doing more testing as a duff battery may result in damage to the ECU!

 

[petem]

fuel shut off solenoid playing up? It is on the end of the fuel injection pump and is powered from the ECU. I think it has 12v applied to it when the engine is starting/running. I would check out what is happening with that. It is easy to swap them from one engine to the other too. I would also have a look at and get some good contact cleaner on the ECU connector and the fuel injection pump connector.
Then check out the flywheel sensor at the back of the engine. They can get rusty and not read properly.
I would also make sure the battery is well charged before doing more testing as a duff battery may result in damage to the ECU!

Wise words!

 

[gordmac]

Does the solenoid click ?

I would start with battery state. If ok trigger starter manually and see if that turns it. It is a process of elimination.

Could be starter. Given the above seized engine would seem unlikely

Thanks for replying.
I don't think the solenoid clicked. Battery turns the engine over fine normally, it took a fair bit of turning to get it going from cold. After turning the power off to reset the electronics it turned so I think it is electronic rather than mechanical.

 

[gordmac]

fuel shut off solenoid playing up? It is on the end of the fuel injection pump and is powered from the ECU. I think it has 12v applied to it when the engine is starting/running. I would check out what is happening with that. It is easy to swap them from one engine to the other too. I would also have a look at and get some good contact cleaner on the ECU connector and the fuel injection pump connector.
Then check out the flywheel sensor at the back of the engine. They can get rusty and not read properly.
I would also make sure the battery is well charged before doing more testing as a duff battery may result in damage to the ECU!

Thanks for replying.
I did wonder about the fuel solenoid but that wouldn't stop the engine from turning. If it comes off with the pump I would have thought it would have been checked when the pump was.
All the connectors were split, checked and cleaned by a competent auto electrician recently. Doesn't mean there isn't a damaged wire somewhere though.
I take it the flywheel sensor gives the engine speed? Looking at the fault code list that one was the only one with an engine won't turn symptom, I did suggest to him that could be the issue, until the fault appears again we wont get a fault code.

 

[kashurst]

You would hope the stop solenoid has been checked and tested but you never know and it could be a whole new issues. They just unscrew, so you could swap them over with the other engine. Although as it is immersed in diesel its more likely an electric issue than a mechanical one.

If it can be got at, it's worth taking the crank sensor out as it detectects speed and I think top dead centre. It's magnetic, so if there is any rusty bits of steel in the housing - and there probably will be from the starter ring/pinion it weakens the responsiveness of the sensor. Take it out, give it a clean etc. What ever you do find as the problem, do the same "fix" to the other engine as it probably won't be far behind.

 

[gordmac]

Worth a look thanks. Will suggest it to my friend.

 

[petem]

I had a 2.2 error one of my engines. Despite what the manual says, it was a battery issue. Injecti pump was fine.

 

[gordmac]

Thanks for replying.
The injection pump wasn't fine, it did need the sensor thing fixed. The engine needed turning over for 20 seconds or so before slowly picking up a cylinder at a time, not sure a poor battery would do that. Worth looking at the voltage when starting though. I can't remember if it has one start battery for both engines or one each. If the former would that not cause issues with both engines?

 

[scottie]

Normally you would expect each engine to have its own set of electrics with possibly a switch to join the batteries