mattlidster
New Member
No it was from Bosh centre in Southampton. Lever calibration didnt make any difference!!
KAD 300 tick over slight surge/ rev increase
- Thread starter mattlidster
- Start date
petem
Well-Known Member
Did you check the first injector resistance to rule that out?
We actually had a similar problem with one of our KAD44 and it appears to have been solved by replacing the batteries and the original battery charger. A couple of people suggested that duff batteries could have been the issue so I'd definitely recommend that you give the batteries a proper test (with a battery test), even if they appear to be working OK.
Hopefully you'll have eliminated the obvious issue already, like poor connections to the ECU, poor connections to the sensors, knackered fuel lines, etc.
We actually had a similar problem with one of our KAD44 and it appears to have been solved by replacing the batteries and the original battery charger. A couple of people suggested that duff batteries could have been the issue so I'd definitely recommend that you give the batteries a proper test (with a battery test), even if they appear to be working OK.
Hopefully you'll have eliminated the obvious issue already, like poor connections to the ECU, poor connections to the sensors, knackered fuel lines, etc.
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petem
Well-Known Member
The other theory, that @kashurst of this parish suggested, is that there is a anti syphon ball bearing in the fuel pre-filter housing. This can become gummed up and may cause irregularities in your fuel supply at tickover. The fix is to remove the ball (assuming your fuel tanks are higher than your engines). My mechanic at the time was skeptical so we didn't investigate it but if you've had sludgy fuel then it might be worth checking.
mattlidster
New Member
Checking the first injector resistance today all being well, batteries were drop tested and were all good, I did replace the old charger last year as it was one that was charging constantly and had boiled the batteries almost dry. I will check that ball bearing as that sounds like its worth a look. I have read on another forum that someone having the same issue cleaned up every sensor and electrical connector and that resolved their similar issue, so thats the next job on the list!
petem
Well-Known Member
Another couple of suggestions....
1) Check the throttle connectors for corrosion (I believe they are about six inches away from the throttle bodies)
2) Consider fitting an SPM (Signal Processing Module) which smooths the signals sent from the throttles.
mattlidster
New Member
Ok not the injector wire as that is reading 102.4 when testing testing the resistance. Could a faulty lift pump cause this? If the old injector pump was corroded could the lift pump be operating at sub standard efficiency at low revs?
mattlidster
New Member
So despite the amazing weather I have now had fuel polished again and loads of muck came out so was worth doing.
Today I replaced the super charger clutch and cracked open most engine room electrical connectors and cleaned and greased as well as fitting SPM module.
Does anyone know much about the SPM install process? It appears to just be plug and go but I presume I have to do a full calibration as tried to start and get flashing lights on edc and engine is ticking over at 900 rpm.
Today I replaced the super charger clutch and cracked open most engine room electrical connectors and cleaned and greased as well as fitting SPM module.
Does anyone know much about the SPM install process? It appears to just be plug and go but I presume I have to do a full calibration as tried to start and get flashing lights on edc and engine is ticking over at 900 rpm.
mattlidster
New Member
I can’t see where if anywhere the larger 3 pin connectors would be used?
volvopaul
Well-Known Member
They are the power supply from each engine to the module
mattlidster
New Member
Hi Paul, Is there any chance that there is the required plugs behind the dash already or will I need to make them? It’s a 2004 Fairline Targa. I haven’t seen any as yet.
petem
Well-Known Member
Matt, the schematic appears to show two unused sockets.
Volvo Penta Exploded view / schematic Control System for Twin Engines and Single Station.: B KAD44P-C, KAMD44P-C, KAD300-A, KAMD300-A - MarinePartsEurope.com
Pete
mattlidster
New Member
Cheers Pete, if there is one it is extremely well hidden!!
volvopaul
Well-Known Member
They are on the existing loom that joins the helm control , it depends how the builder routed the wiring behind the dash as the looms are often way too long so they coil them up , might be a while digging out the plug on each loom , the looms are colour coded with tape so don’t mix them up ie port to starboard etc as you can on any of the SPM plugs.
mattlidster
New Member
Eventually found it in the mid cabin ceiling, all plugged in and working but still hasn’t cured the problem.
Gary8848
New Member
Hi if anyone still here , did this problem get sorted
petem
Well-Known Member
What engines and symptoms are you experiencing?
mattlidster
New Member
Im still here and living with the issue still! Its no worse but no better! I have found by starting the starboard engine first then port I can hardly even hear it these days!
To date I have had 5 different mechanics from VP main dealer to a KAD 300 whisperer try and pi point the issue without any luck. I think the only thing that hasn't been swapped from one engine to the other is the fly wheels as not had the engine out!briggs
Member
Have you tried replacing the potentiometer on throttle?
mattlidster
New Member
Yes the engineer had their own isolated set up that they connected directly to the engine in the bay so bypassed all the boats wiring directly to the new engine wiring loom.
