Pinnacle
Well-Known Member
That's an awful lot of bottles of cava.............
JW's Upgrades for 2016 - Tender
- Thread starter Hurricane
- Start date
CharlieAlpha
Well-Known Member
This may well be why the craftsmen in Adriatic decided to use strips as no doubt the wood costs would have been cheaper.
petem
Well-Known Member
Indeed, just made up some cock and bull story for the punter!
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
In an earlier post, Bart said that he had problems with the seat hinges on his Novurania.
I can now see his problem.
The hinges that they have supplied are hopeless.
Made from stainless steel they simply don't "HINGE".
I suppose they might be designed to have a lot of friction but this much is ridiculous.
These are the supplied hinges:-
When removed, they are so stiff that you can't move them in your hands.
Even if I put them into a vice they need a spanner on the other side to shift them.
I can see exactly what Bart was saying.
So, I removed the lot - all 6 of them.
I couldn't find any hinges with the same centres but I did come across these:-
Much better - the holes to hinge centre line are the same - the distance between the holes is about half a hole out.
But these hinges use bigger screws anyway so they are a good replacement.
Cheap as well
I got them from here (if Bart is interested)
http://www.wdsltd.co.uk/product/3751/hinges-non-detachable-grp-wds-8605
The 8605-209 ones are the ones that I used.
This Novurania dinghy is supposed to be the best.
Generally speaking it is a great boat but it just needs those finishing touches.
I'm prepared to spend the time but this brand is recognised as a superyacht tender - I would have thought that little things like this would have been sorted out.
I'm actually getting on top of things now - it is almost a member of the family now.
I will list my other problems later - after we have it running in Torbay.
I can now see his problem.
The hinges that they have supplied are hopeless.
Made from stainless steel they simply don't "HINGE".
I suppose they might be designed to have a lot of friction but this much is ridiculous.
These are the supplied hinges:-
When removed, they are so stiff that you can't move them in your hands.
Even if I put them into a vice they need a spanner on the other side to shift them.
I can see exactly what Bart was saying.
So, I removed the lot - all 6 of them.
I couldn't find any hinges with the same centres but I did come across these:-
Much better - the holes to hinge centre line are the same - the distance between the holes is about half a hole out.
But these hinges use bigger screws anyway so they are a good replacement.
Cheap as well
I got them from here (if Bart is interested)
http://www.wdsltd.co.uk/product/3751/hinges-non-detachable-grp-wds-8605
The 8605-209 ones are the ones that I used.
This Novurania dinghy is supposed to be the best.
Generally speaking it is a great boat but it just needs those finishing touches.
I'm prepared to spend the time but this brand is recognised as a superyacht tender - I would have thought that little things like this would have been sorted out.
I'm actually getting on top of things now - it is almost a member of the family now.
I will list my other problems later - after we have it running in Torbay.
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petem
Well-Known Member
There was a post recently with a link to a company that will make custom 316 hinges. Worth bearing in mind.
MapisM
Well-Known Member
Yeah, yeah...
...you didn't see what sort of boat refitting that chap was capable of, though - both interiors and decks.
Don't be fooled by the pic of my chocks, my input for them was that I didn't care at all about their look, just about their strength.
But trust me, I've yet to see any Prin/Fair/Sun (or also AZ, Ferretti, etc. for that matter) whose joinery comes close to the quality that guy used to deliver.
I can only think of some Riva and Sanlorenzo, where I've seen a comparable level - just maybe.
I wish he were still working and making up stories for punters...
MapisM
Well-Known Member
M, isn't the axle of those hinges possibly meant to be regulated with an allen key, or am I misreading your pic?
Stiffness aside, I must say that they look better (and possibly more expensive!) than those you used as replacement.
It's indeed weird that they didn't realise the stiffness problem by now... And IIRC, Bart mentioned corrosion rather than stiffness.
BartW
Well-Known Member
I'm on I phone, so shorrt message, my problem was exactly the sticky hinges, i tought it became worse over time due to corrosion of the shaft...
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Yep - I tried to loosen with an allen key but they are all so tight the hex shape inside the allen key just rounded.
As you say, I think that the plastic ones actually look better than the stainless ones anyway.
I'm sure that they will last longer.
@Bart
Do you think the frames inside your seats are still serviceable and could take these plastic hinges?
If so, the company that supplied me delivered them within a couple of days - excellent service.
These hinges are definitely an improvement for very little cost.
I also got the correct A4 stainless screws for the seats and bolts with nylock nuts/washers for bolting through inside the lockers.
The bolts need to be quite long - Novurania made double skin mouldings everywhere - one of their good points.
As you say, I think that the plastic ones actually look better than the stainless ones anyway.
I'm sure that they will last longer.
@Bart
Do you think the frames inside your seats are still serviceable and could take these plastic hinges?
If so, the company that supplied me delivered them within a couple of days - excellent service.
These hinges are definitely an improvement for very little cost.
I also got the correct A4 stainless screws for the seats and bolts with nylock nuts/washers for bolting through inside the lockers.
The bolts need to be quite long - Novurania made double skin mouldings everywhere - one of their good points.
jfm
Well-Known Member
Good going hurricane.
Apologies for my doom/gloom on fitting the plotter- it looks like it fitted:encouragement:. I share your views that novurania should be a bit better. The glass finish is a bit sharp inside the lockers for example. The deep vee hull and ride makes up for it though.
What is the black cable stopped to outside of the elephant's trunk going to the engine? It should be inside. Not the steering cable- that must go outside - the other one. Maybe it's the fuel pipe. You should thread it inside for tidiness sake.
Your 70 MM chock thickness was quite an extravagance- mine are 50mm and cost <£100 for 2 off 50x180x600 from kj Howells in teak not iroko. Still, I don't have the cantilever loads that you have to deal with. Nice chocks anyway
I used same VHF aerial as you but mounted it inside the console so it didn't interfere with covers etc. Grp is VHF transparent. Mind you mine is one aerial length lower than yours which won't help on range
Very nice job anyhow. I'll be interested to hear how those tabs work
Apologies for my doom/gloom on fitting the plotter- it looks like it fitted:encouragement:. I share your views that novurania should be a bit better. The glass finish is a bit sharp inside the lockers for example. The deep vee hull and ride makes up for it though.
What is the black cable stopped to outside of the elephant's trunk going to the engine? It should be inside. Not the steering cable- that must go outside - the other one. Maybe it's the fuel pipe. You should thread it inside for tidiness sake.
Your 70 MM chock thickness was quite an extravagance- mine are 50mm and cost <£100 for 2 off 50x180x600 from kj Howells in teak not iroko. Still, I don't have the cantilever loads that you have to deal with. Nice chocks anyway
I used same VHF aerial as you but mounted it inside the console so it didn't interfere with covers etc. Grp is VHF transparent. Mind you mine is one aerial length lower than yours which won't help on range
Very nice job anyhow. I'll be interested to hear how those tabs work
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Actually the internal glass work is very good on mine - no sharp edges.
In fact all the glass work is excellent.
It was just the little finishing touches that let it down.
Yes - another example of poor finish.
There are two pipes/cables outside the elephant trunk (in the above pic)
The elephant trunk is a kind of mesh and they have forced some cable ties through the mesh to secure the fuel line onto the elephant trunk (the mesh elephant trunk not big enough to take the fuel line as well) - ugh.
Maybe I will look for some better elephant trunk - but that will probably mean unplugging everything to feed it on etc.
The other pipe/cable is the steering one which is probably best left where it is.
I will comment on the tabs later in the year when we have time to play with it - probably in Spain in the lagoon where I can raise them and effectively do a test "with and without" tabs.
jfm
Well-Known Member
mike,
Good to hear your locker insides etc are well finished.
This is the elephant trunking. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150899408...49&var=450115825428&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT. As we both agree, the steering cable cant go in it but everything else can - that's how mine is set up ex factory (my engine was factory; yours was NV installed). You probably want the 50mm size. I use this product (in the small sizes) generally for making up custom looms for the boat. It is very neat and you can create neat "Y" junctions.
BTW, the bow nav light has a short life. Here is mine after 2.5 seasons...
I replaced it with this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271423975316?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT I had to rout into the fake teak to create a bigger footprint for this new light, and add gelcoat to the front, but that's easy. I've sealed it all up and it is LED so it should be better, and also the original light was a bit sunken/obscured by the fake teak whereas this new one isn't.
I also soldered a white LED "bulb" into the anchor light fitting- I'd recommend you do that because the filament bulb just breaks with all the handling/bashing of the pole. Also, as regards the socket for the anchor light pole, it is annoyingly tilted forward. I unscrewed the socket, packed up the front edge with about 3 washers under the screws, then filled in the wedge-shaped gap with white sikaflex. The pole is now vertical, which is much nicer
All these are mods you might want to do in UK if you have time
Good to hear your locker insides etc are well finished.
This is the elephant trunking. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150899408...49&var=450115825428&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT. As we both agree, the steering cable cant go in it but everything else can - that's how mine is set up ex factory (my engine was factory; yours was NV installed). You probably want the 50mm size. I use this product (in the small sizes) generally for making up custom looms for the boat. It is very neat and you can create neat "Y" junctions.
BTW, the bow nav light has a short life. Here is mine after 2.5 seasons...
I replaced it with this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271423975316?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT I had to rout into the fake teak to create a bigger footprint for this new light, and add gelcoat to the front, but that's easy. I've sealed it all up and it is LED so it should be better, and also the original light was a bit sunken/obscured by the fake teak whereas this new one isn't.
I also soldered a white LED "bulb" into the anchor light fitting- I'd recommend you do that because the filament bulb just breaks with all the handling/bashing of the pole. Also, as regards the socket for the anchor light pole, it is annoyingly tilted forward. I unscrewed the socket, packed up the front edge with about 3 washers under the screws, then filled in the wedge-shaped gap with white sikaflex. The pole is now vertical, which is much nicer
All these are mods you might want to do in UK if you have time
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
mike,
Good to hear your locker insides etc are well finished.
This is the elephant trunking. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150899408...49&var=450115825428&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT. As we both agree, the steering cable cant go in it but everything else can - that's how mine is set up ex factory (my engine was factory; yours was NV installed). You probably want the 50mm size. I use this product (in the small sizes) generally for making up custom looms for the boat. It is very neat and you can create neat "Y" junctions.
BTW, the bow nav light has a short life. Here is mine after 2.5 seasons...
I replaced it with this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271423975316?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT I had to rout into the fake teak to create a bigger footprint for this new light, and add gelcoat to the front, but that's easy. I've sealed it all up and it is LED so it should be better, and also the original light was a bit sunken/obscured by the fake teak whereas this new one isn't.
I also soldered a white LED "bulb" into the anchor light fitting- I'd recommend you do that because the filament bulb just breaks with all the handling/bashing of the pole. Also, as regards the socket for the anchor light pole, it is annoyingly tilted forward. I unscrewed the socket, packed up the front edge with about 3 washers under the screws, then filled in the wedge-shaped gap with white sikaflex. The pole is now vertical, which is much nicer
All these are mods you might want to do in UK if you have time
Thanks for those tips
We did notice that the bow nav light did get very hot.
Thanks for the links to the elephant trunking - a larger diameter one might be worth fitting - I'll have a look.
Likewise for the nav pole - didn't really use the Walker Bay one but with this dinghy we might be going further and maybe more at night.
Thanks again to you, MYAG and Bart for all your help with this project.
MYAG for showing me his in the first place (although I do remember JFM pointing his out when it was in Swanwick a few years ago)
And Bart and JFM for helping with the initial specs etc - I definitely wouldn't have started this without the three of you and your help.
Also thanks to an anonymous friend (lurker) on here who has been very supportive - he knows who he is.
jfm
Well-Known Member
Yep you can go much further so nav lights are good. Not that MYAG uses them on his 12nm ride to one of his favourite Turkish restaurants!:encouragement:
Underwater lights? EME still offers forum discount!
Underwater lights? EME still offers forum discount!
MrB
Well-Known Member
It's threads like this that make winter tolerable. :encouragement:
BartW
Well-Known Member
due to the "stiffness" of the hinges, the screws were "pulled out" of the seat bottom plate,
and indeed after taking the hinges off, It was impossible to move them by hand,
I'm astonished that Novu still uses this type, I thought this was only on my production badge, and they changed that by now !
what I did, to make the hinge fixing stronger, I placed a long (approx 0.8...1 meter) L shape SS profile on the rear lower corner of that helm seat,
and screwed many SS "wood" type screws, to distribute the force over the full length / many distributed screws. In both directions of the L profile
than I found in my hardware stock at home ;-) a few "remove'able hinges that fitted nice.
For fixing these hinges to the SS profile, I made some threaded holes in the profile (approx is 2,5..3mm thick)
I have to admid that the SS profile (not polished) doesn't look perfect, but right there behind it is out of view,
and most important it makes the construction much more reliable.
this was right before last season iirc,
I had only replaced the helm seat hinges, the other 2 seats still have the orriginals,
I used to rinse them much better last season, but could feel they became more stiff by the end of the season.
My tender is in a storage / warehouse since september last year, haven't seen it since then, so might have some work to do when it is back
I'll make some pics when I have her back
regarding SS Screws ?
after so many years, and doing all these rebuildings, I have a collection and stock onboard bigger than any boat Chandler
jfm
Well-Known Member
I think you guys would be better just fitting the stainless steel hinges Novurania used to fit (see pics of my 2013 boat above and below). £5 each, here http://juststainless.co.uk/hinges.asp, 8th from top, part JSPB07. I'd call the supplier and ask for them to be mirror polished if they're not already
Just stainless is a good website generally, btw
Just stainless is a good website generally, btw
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Hurricane
Well-Known Member
I think you guys would be better just fitting the stainless steel hinges Novurania used to fit (see pics of my 2013 boat above and below). £5 each, here http://juststainless.co.uk/hinges.asp, 8th from top, part JSPB07. I'd call the supplier and ask for them to be mirror polished if they're not already
Just stainless is a good website generally, btw
Yep - I searched that website and couldn't find anything with similar centres.
I didn't want to have to fill in any holes
The centreline of the hinge itself was important as well.
The black plastic ones that I fitted are as good a fit as I could find.
BTW
The windscreen in your pic.
I ordered exactly the same but NV told me that it didn't look right so we agreed that they should send it loose.
I have to agree with them - it doesn't look right - could be made to fit but SWMBO suggested that we should try it without.
In fact, since lifting the boat, the decision has been made for us.
I ordered a purpose made lifting strap (in the past I've made my own) and in order to get the new lifting strap to fit, it has to feed through (below) the stainless steel hand rail that is above your windscreen.
We have still got the screen (never been fitted) but it is now very unlikely that we will use it.
I've just looked at pics of the other Novuranias (Barts and MYAGs)
It seems that Bart's has a screen - MYAG's doesn't
So out of the four boats it looks like 2 will have screens and 2 without.
jfm
Well-Known Member
Ok, all understood on hinges
Yep the windscreen is a bit odd, partly because of the offset of the s/steel handrail. It used to be better when they used the old yammie throttle boxes, because the s/s rail was "outside" the Perspex rail both sides. But when novu switched to the nicer Yammie integrated/flush throttle lever they had to move the starboard leg of the s/s rail inside the windscreen, and that made for a lopsided look. On balance I think I prefer it with than without, esp in the angle in the picture below, but it's an each to their own thing and for sure it does not actually screen you from any wind!
It would be funny to get the 4 identical boats lined up side by side for a photo one day!
Apropos nothing I was using mine the other day and noticed I had 62 hours on it - for a boat hose delivery was June 2013 so almost 3 seasons use. I think I should be ashamed of myself for such little use! What hours have you got on the 40hp/Walker Bay? I know MYAG has 600 or something on his Novu!
Did you already sell the walker bay, by the way? That was a nice boat. Time to move on of course, but it did a good job in a neat package
Yep the windscreen is a bit odd, partly because of the offset of the s/steel handrail. It used to be better when they used the old yammie throttle boxes, because the s/s rail was "outside" the Perspex rail both sides. But when novu switched to the nicer Yammie integrated/flush throttle lever they had to move the starboard leg of the s/s rail inside the windscreen, and that made for a lopsided look. On balance I think I prefer it with than without, esp in the angle in the picture below, but it's an each to their own thing and for sure it does not actually screen you from any wind!
It would be funny to get the 4 identical boats lined up side by side for a photo one day!
Apropos nothing I was using mine the other day and noticed I had 62 hours on it - for a boat hose delivery was June 2013 so almost 3 seasons use. I think I should be ashamed of myself for such little use! What hours have you got on the 40hp/Walker Bay? I know MYAG has 600 or something on his Novu!
Did you already sell the walker bay, by the way? That was a nice boat. Time to move on of course, but it did a good job in a neat package
MapisM
Well-Known Member
Yes, nicer it is for sure.
But I still think (we already debated this, IIRC) it's a pity that Yam doesn't make a version of that throttle designed for center console mount, with the trim switch reversed.
This is in fact designed for side mount, where you can control the trim very conveniently with your thumb, while you can't when it's placed either side of a console.
