Italy

[sailaboutvic]

Nice Vic.
But what can a sailor do in bad weather? I see that all the anchorages are open to W, SW...

Funny you mentioned that Alex, Vyv asked me almost the same question In a early posting , the different then I was ask why all my anchorages good from the S or W ,
Off cause we only using anchorage that suite the wind we getting on the day , isn't that what we suppose to do ?, I started to think I got all this sailing lark wrong .
Maybe time I brought new book , sailing for dummy's

To answer your question , Take where we are right now , if a S or SW blow came in to morrow we head 9 miles to Sestri Levante and anchor there or 18 miles and anchor behind the harbour wall at Santa Margheri well protected from the W / SW.
If those option wasn't there , then it be a 15 mile back to anchorage Palmaria island
Plus there marinas if you really want to use them but as you know we not marina uses of cause if it was the only option then We would have to bit the bullet.

Off cause the name of the game is not to get caught out , read the weather and make sure you have some where to run too. Well that what we do and yes sometime we too get caught out .
Unlike many people we talk to , I not interested in to day weather , that's old news , I looking at tomorrow and the next day , my weather site isn't Windfinder which many swear by , I more interested in further west to me and the gulf of Lion to the North that's where my weather coming from, and believe me when I say I am no weather expert, but it isn't that difficult, plenty of info out here , not like the old days when we spend time drawing weather maps and putting in the pressure systems .
The hardest thing now is turning on the internet .

I except my partner and I are experience sailor and been doing this for some time ,
actually Christine a lot longer then me at the age of 13 I didn't start till I was in my 20s ,
but even so a less experience sailor , even one with basic knowledge shouldn't have any problem cruising this coast,
Research is the key, personally it isn't a problem where I leaned to sailed on the east coast in the UK if you didn't do your sum before setting off you end up on a sand bank or stuck out at sea because you missed the tide and you can't get over a bar , or even go backwards .

Med sailor have got it easy now , gps , plotters the internet and all the other Aids and even better, The Med I a pond of still waters .
Point your boat where you want to go and unless they are a right moron you end up there .
One day soon a aid for anchoring will arrive then most people problem will be over and everyone will be a expert.

Just to finish off , these posting aren't suppose to encourage others to leave their comfort zone and sail these parts , I only posting because many friends I know are heading this way and asked me to keep them updated and by the message I am getting and people we meeting going south , saying they finding my posting useful and knowing what to come ,
There not much being posting from others here but the viewing speak for them self ,
people are interested and hopeful others who may find it helpful who interested in cruising Italy and the south of France that have been put off with internet write up of no where to anchor and expensive marina .




Photos still upside down .tryed to turn them around but some how here don't like it .

 

[One A.]

 

[vyv_cox]

Point your boat where you want to go and unless they are a right moron you end up there .

We met that guy the other day. We were beating along the south coast of Kalymnos. He was motoring in the same general direction but gradually came closer and closer until we shouted at him less than 10 metres off our starboard side. He turned parallel to us but took no other action but I was now pinching a bit so he got in front of us and I went astern of him. Next tack we caught him up again about a mile further on. His steering was incredibly erratic so we kept well clear. We turned north to Emborios but he carried on, sometimes pointing north, sometimes south. Cannot imagine where he was going or why he was behaving in that way.

 

[sailaboutvic]

How did you do that ? I tryed turning them upside down and still they came out the wrong way , I have to stop taken photos with my phone .

 

[sailaboutvic]

We met that guy the other day. We were beating along the south coast of Kalymnos. He was motoring in the same general direction but gradually came closer and closer until we shouted at him less than 10 metres off our starboard side. He turned parallel to us but took no other action but I was now pinching a bit so he got in front of us and I went astern of him. Next tack we caught him up again about a mile further on. His steering was incredibly erratic so we kept well clear. We turned north to Emborios but he carried on, sometimes pointing north, sometimes south. Cannot imagine where he was going or why he was behaving in that way.

Thank god his up your end
Have a good day Vyv

 

[One A.]

How did you do that ? I tryed turning them upside down and still they came out the wrong way , I have to stop taken photos with my phone .

Have a look in your phone settings.... I did it with a resize app that also has a rotation option.

 

[sailaboutvic]

Ok thanks for your help

 

[One A.]

No worries.

 

[sailaboutvic]

Sestri Lavante
Anchor behind or in front depending which way you want to look at it , the yellow buoys plenty of room on sand ,
You can go onto the end of the quay stern or bow on .
There also a bit of room in between the mooring .
Fuel on the quay .
Take care not to anchor too near to the red buoys as a local ferry needed to use a small quay way Down near the town and motor through the moored boats .
Dinghy can be left on the quay near the fuel berth .
Large town ,plenty to munch around and see ,
The yellow buoys are about 400 mts from the beach , the first time we seen them out this far , we been taken sights and so far they been between 200 and 250 mts , well within the scope of most people anchoring tackle for depths .

Ok last night was the first night we been hit by music from the shore , one blaring away from one side and another from the other , only they did stop around 23.00 .
Plus it was mostly 60s and 70s stuff .
It's also the first day we had to motor all the way to our next stop lucky not that far .

Alex you be please to know if you had a strong west of south wind you can find good protection here .

We are now Within around 100 miles of coast to sail before we enter France .

Now what's the chances of getting a free berth in Monaco ?

 

[sailaboutvic]

Our next anchor was supposed to be Rapallo and it was for some hours , long enough to go ashore and get exchange one of my rusty Greece gaz bottle for a nice new one .
An hour later we was approached by the CG Rib telling us we had to leave the port they where about to rise two sunken boats one very close to where we was anchored , so all three boats moved to the next port just a mile and a bit away .
S Marghetrita Ligure large anchorage inside the port .
Buzzing town , this is a well to do area , you just need to look at the cars they driving ,

A combination of Rapallo port being close and it being the week end the anchorages is packed to the brim , and as there no wind everyone is facing a different way , it going to be a interesting night .
Holding good mud and sand , the town has plenty of super market to choose from .
Dinghy need to be taken to the far end of the town quay but quite safe .
Fuel on the quay .

The Italian make boating a family do , they leave the marinas just to anchor out even if in the same port , socialising is a big thing , so it's nothing to see five boats side by side friends and family's . Now and then a song starts off on one boats and before you know it boats around the anchorage are joining in , so it can be noisy as the day cool down , but hey I rather have families enjoying them self then a load of loud months drank charter swearing and shouting .

 

[Mistroma]

Now what's the chances of getting a free berth in Monaco ?

If anyone can do it it would be you Vic. You can stay in SanRemo for free, at least we did a few years ago. I seem to remember it was on left side after entering and we tied up alongside. Saw a huge rat running under cars around noon.

I seem to remember that you can get a train to Monaco but station is about 1km from harbour and tickets were about 30 euro for 2 returns. It's about 1 hour each way. We booked into Monaco for 1 night instead and think it was about 80 euro in Fontveille. Few facilities but interesting stop and only 2nd marina that summer.

You could try Villefranche and take train to Monaco from there, tickets probably much cheaper. I think Villefranche marina is in the same group as the one we found in Port de Golfe Juan. It was good value in high season, approx. 34 euro. We got berth, electricity, water, Wifi, free laundry wash & dry, free unlimited cold spring or sparkling water plus free use of electric bikes. Never tried marina at Villefranche as we always anchored there off Roches du Rube.

Caught out once at Beaulieu sur mer atround the corner. We anchored there to shelter from strong offshore winds. Nothing appeared but a sea-breeze started very late in afternoon. It didn't feel right and we got ready to move. Wind shot up to 40+kts onshore just as we'd closed hatches and started the engine. Everything around turned into a foaming mass of spray. We were lucky to get the anchor up, another 5 minutes would have been too late. Even the big 200m boats were struggling to get out asap and we all shot back to anchor in Villefranche.

 

[vyv_cox]

We loved San Remo. As Mistroma says, free port on the left although we had to move a couple of times to let fishing boats unload. Walk up to the refuge, the obvious church on top of the hill as you look into town. A fascinating warren of little passages and tiny houses. The refuge closes at 1200, well worth getting there in time to look inside.

 

[sailaboutvic]

There say every picture tells a story although not all of it , the three boats in front where less then a half boat length earlier not that much further away now and the yachts in the other where all touching dinghy so much you couldn't tell who dinghy belong to which boat .
and not a word was spoken .
I thought we drifted over night and ended up in Lakka . It then I thought NO cant be , there no one shouting , your over my anchor .
This is the third time we had a anchorage this packed in this whole trip from leaving Aeolian islands , the most we had is six boats , we spend more times anchored on our own .
Of cause this will all change now as we approach the holiday summer season .
In the whole trip we seen three British boats , nice people we shared a few beers, most boats are French,

Last night ended up well by 22.00 surprisingly quiet , hardly a word could be heard , I think the heat may had help , there was the odd splash now and then throughout the night ,

Monaco ... Mike it's not so much that we want to visit it , more interested to see the look on they faces as Christina ask in French where do we find the free transit berth . Wouldn't I be shocked if I was directed next to a super yacht .
We do have a card from a baron ( or so his card said ) we help with his stuck anchor who lives in Monaco from some years back in Turkey , now wonder if he using his berth .



Two good things have happen since I taken the photo .
A..... a little wiz of breeze have arrived and everyone is nicely straighten up .
But still within Chris Tomlinson range for jumping .
B..... already anchor chains can be heard and a few are moving out , probably back to their marina berth where they will finish off they weekend socialising .

Now time for a swim , I just have to step in slowly as diving off the back isn't possible unless I want to end up on the boat deck . Mind you there is a very nice lady topples lying there ,

Mike , Vyv thanks for the tips on the harbours very helpful ,
It was 2013 last time we did this trIp and nearly all the place and harbour we have visit this time are once we missed out on last time ,

Portofino is interesting but I think we may just take the bus ,
Just like to spend time with people of my calibre , NO not rich and famous , more the dyslexic type .

 

[vyv_cox]

I see the houses in the background of your second pic are like the ones in Camogli and other towns along that coast. Must be a local custom. Plain concrete or cement walls but beautifully painted to simulate fancy lintels, shutters, stonework and other architectural features. Really striking.

 

[sailaboutvic]

I see the houses in the background of your second pic are like the ones in Camogli and other towns along that coast. Must be a local custom. Plain concrete or cement walls but beautifully painted to simulate fancy lintels, shutters, stonework and other architectural features. Really striking.

Yes the building are some thing to see ,
I can spend hours walking around looking at the building architecture, some thing that attract me the these country like Croatia, North Africa Italy and France ,
Not to get into the Greek thing , but that's what's I fine disappointing with Greece , but hey let's no go there .
To day has to be Portofino but sadly not by boats although we could take the ferry for €12 return , but an inland bus trip will be more interesting I Think .
The anchorages as emptyed out since yesterday afternoon only five boats here now . Much better then 50
To morrow we plain to take Vyv advise and sail to Camogli .
We trying to keep away from harbour as it's so hot but we might give Camogli a go for a free berth to go in land a bit .

 

[vyv_cox]

Camogli harbour might be shallow for you except the outer end but there is an anchorage nearby. Same painted buildings, beautiful job.

 

[sailaboutvic]

Camogli a picture postcard town .
Thanks Vyv for suggesting it ,
It really is a picture and as dust falls another side of it appears. All the dotted yellow and white lights makes the colourful house stand out more , a sight not to miss .
A town full of dolls houses we called it .

There free 48 hours transit berth just has you go in the harbour ,
but it's a bit of a fluff , pick up buoys then go stern onto the quay.
The buoys are all very close to each other and for a 12.9 mt boat like ours you really need to have control of what's going on or you could easily In up in a pickle .
Not something I wouldn't recommend with a long keel boat .
If anyone else as taken a mooring before you , it make it much more complicated, there buoys are so close that there be a danger of one going underneath and getting caught if you go between them , which would be the only way left .
We did end up moored , doing some shopping but left to anchor as it was just too hot .
Plus it did say mooring up to 9.5
I guess as there not many boats about they probably won't bother you .
Good place for the dinghy .

The town , There a descent size super market one street up from the beach .
Bakery's we countered four,but most of the sea front are restaurant or ice cream what you would expect from a seaside town .
The anchorage we dropped in 11 mts and was just out side the swimming buoys , sand so good holding , the protection isn't that great NE is about it , but with light winds and once the tour boats stop coming and going it was a peaceful spot .
The harbour is much better protected just open to the NW of your caught out and needed shelter.

Time to move on ..

 

[sailaboutvic]

Our next two stops where just pit stop , we just anchored for the night then moved on plus there where early morning sails as the wind was going to turn on us in the afternoon , we wanted to use as much wind in our favour and with over 50 miles to Sanreno we wanted to sail not motor .
Arenrano anchored just out side the marina another sandy spot , only protection is from the South West and North but we had a very quiet night here even tho we had a southerly wind blowing at 10 kts , the marina wasn't that busy so there was very little rocking and rolling from boats .
Alasso we anchored quite away from the marina no other reason but we couldn't be bothered to pick up the hook again , but after exploring a bit we found we could had anchored behind the marina north breakwater and still been well away from the entrance , with the SW 15 kts of winds we where getting it was protected enough to flatten the seas where we was , wind died off totally over night .
That left us with just over 21 miles as the crow flies to our next stop Sanremo .

 

[sailaboutvic]

Sanreno , after a very slow sail we arrived , at times drifting at 1.5 kts although now and then the wind did pick up and we managed a respectable 4 kts .
Sanreno is a big harbour , then Marina takes up the eastern part , which leave the rest to fishing boats and a few local club boat pontoons and some even bigger pontoons to hold large motor boats and lets not to forget a boat yard which can haul out big motor boats .

It didn't take long to find the free transit berth just next to the fuel berth , not the most attractive part but hey it's free and a free berth is always welcoming ,
you can stay for three days , we moored stern on , not the best decision I've made , later in the day the CG told us we had to moor Side on , just to find as we tried to haul up the anchor we was stuck ,
luckily we manage to pull the chain we was hooked onto up high enough to dive and put a rope around it , of cause this put a stop to anyone filling up , has by now we was blocking the very large motor gin from leaving the fuel berth , all good fun this sailing lark .
The town buzzing I not seen so many restaurants tables full , people queuing up awaits for a table .
once the rich use to monopolise the town , now more for the holiday makers ,
but the Sanreno Casio still stand proud so do the grand hotels .
This Good place to stock up with good size super markets , enough shop to keep ladies busy and hopeful some where to exchange another one of our rusty Greek Gaz bottle

CG where very friendly even tho we was told to move in a very friendly way , there only interested in us was our in insurance and registration documents and how many days we was staying , I ask about staying longer and they seem to be fine about it, has long as I reported back .
Time to enjoy Sanreno and see what it has to offer as it could possibly be the last stop in Italy .

 

[sailaboutvic]

We come to the end of this journey, it started when we left the Sicilian island of Stromboli and ended in Villefrancehe France .
To sum it up it's been an interesting trip , taxing at times in the sense that we always looking at different places to anchor should the winds decided to play games ,
although only on a very times where we had to sail any long distances to find a better anchorages .
There been four anchorages where we been surrounded by boats all these where at week end , the rest of the time you can almost say we was on our own with just a couple of boats .

The harbours we visited all had free berth and only once had we paid for a berth the cost of €35 in the river Arno , if we hadn't plain to visit Pisa we probably find a quiet spot to anchor in the river up stream .

We kept a good record of this trip for our own benefit and here what we noted .
33 anchages harbours
760 miles in total which included tacking some days .
Our Engine hours 66 .
We alway estimate it take an hour to drop sail motor to a spot and anchor then do the reverse when leaving ,
33 hours was used mooring be if anchoring or harbour .
200 miles under engine and 560under sail
Our fuel Usages 66 lts fuel there a bouts
All these figures are rough as it depend on speed at the time but close enough .

All in all the west coast of Italy and its islands is a cruising area that well within capability of most sailor as long as you plain ahead , it doesn't have to cost you any more to cruisers this part of the Med then says Spain,Greece,Turkey unless you wish to use marinas in which case the same applied to the for said countries.
Eating out was expensive in some parts in others you could eat out in a nice restaurant for around €15 including a drink , pizza could always be brought for £6 to € 8 and normally one would feed two people . We had our share of pizza
Mostly the food was good valve and plenty off, except in the popular tourist places , but then what new .

We sew very little floating rubbish although one harbour we visited was dirty ,
Some places we sew clean up boats , we not seen anywhere else , these are boats with a kind of scoop in front to pick up any rubbish .

The coastal sites are really some thing , lushly green hill and mountains reaching high into the clouds , the rocky cliff thousands of years being beating by the seas leaving its mark , shore with sharp rock jetting out and miles of long sandy beaches .
Little Houses spread in lonely spots on the hill side , colourful villages with pastel colour houses and as you get close to the big cites of Rome , Naples larges cites spring our of the ground with grand building , although very few high rises building could been seen,

The Italian, well what can one say , in general very friendly open and welcoming only in two places can I think of where one or two individual make life hard and there where on the popular islands bays and we was dealing with pontoon owners who haven't take up most of the landing spot and refuses to even let us pick someone up off there pontoon , other then that we found fishermen happy to tie along side them , one fisher,mean pontoon owner give us a berth for a few nights and another small fisherman harbour move their boats so we could get in .
The coast guards have been very respectful and although first contact seen to be very official we always ended up having a joke and a laugh with them .
There was a couple of harbours which we entered looking for a transit berth where we was approached by marina staff offering us berth for € 60 this was in June so that infect not over expensive for a 13 mts boat , we decline.

The winds which are normally from the northern direction where kind to us we had are fair share of southerly winds we also had our share of tacking to do .

Most of the coast as yellow swimming buoy , some places there another set further out , these buoy we found where 200 mts off shore one time there where put 400 mts off shore , we measured this by using a range finder .

We enjoy are trip of Italy but then we enjoy most places , not to find an enclosed bay to anchor in , don't bother us as it may others so a offshore anchor with a offshore breeze is good enough for us although there wasn't a time when if we needed a sheltered anchorage that wasn't in reach .
The rest of our season will be France , Corsica, Sardinia maybe back to Italy before return to Sicily to start on our copper coating .
Hopefully Every one will have a safe summer , be safe .