Issue with electric engine hatch

[About Time]

Dear boaters,

I have a problem with my electric engine hatch system. I do hope some of you can assist me in locating the problem as I have tried quite a few things to fix it without any luck
Attached is the wiring.

Two actuators work over a switch (#3)..... once the switch is pushed and kept for upward the hatch should open - once pushed and kept for downward the hatch should close. This in fact is the case but in steps of 5 seconds only and then the actuators stop and you need to bring the switch back to neutral and re-push the direction you want. I have checked all wiring and they seem fine. All connections at the relays have been disconnected, tightened and re-positioned. I have also tried to connect the wiring at the switch (#3) directly to see if the switch is bad (20A and still original). No change. Then I bought new relays - 4 pieces 1N4007 (see wiring - exactly same as originals NAGARES RLP/ 52-12D 12V-40A/15A). Still no change....

There is no corrosion on any of the connectors.

I am left with no further ideas.

One thing to add .... Back few years ago it worked perfectly ... Never stopped during operation... then it started to stop now and then and now the actuators stop every 5 seconds.... And maybe important - yes every 5 seconds..... Not 4-10 seconds but every 5 seconds EVERY time the hatch goes up or down.

While typing I wonder if the automatic relay 20A (#5 on the wiring) can go bad or cause such issue. .. It has never popped.

Cross my fingers for some advise. Thanks in advance.

 

[Seastoke]

What is the square by number 5 and have you tried another power source the voltage might be dropping so dropping relays out . Q. You have to be looking at the part that is linked to both ie battery or switch.

 

[About Time]

#5 on the wiring is an automatic fuse 12V 20A. Not sure if this is the exact term in english ..... Anyway the purpose is to cut the power if the current drain exceeds 20A.
Like questioned above will it be possible that this fuse is bad and cause the problem ? I could try to run the power directly from the battery to the circuit but then I will have no fuse in the set up.... not sure this is a good idea ?
I have tried several power sources ... incl. new batteries this season.
Thanks for looking at the problem for me

 

[Seastoke]

#5 on the wiring is an automatic fuse 12V 20A. Not sure if this is the exact term in english ..... Anyway the purpose is to cut the power if the current drain exceeds 20A.
Like questioned above will it be possible that this fuse is bad and cause the problem ? I could try to run the power directly from the battery to the circuit but then I will have no fuse in the set up.... not sure this is a good idea ?
I have tried several power sources ... incl. new batteries this season.
Thanks for looking at the problem for me

Ok so rather than by pass the unit you could a use a clip on amp meter to measure the load being used , or disconnect the door from the rams to lighten the load and try the unit to see if it still cuts out .

 

[About Time]

Thanks. I will try this out next time I go to the boat and will advise outcome.

 

[tico]

Basically what BB said... suggest there is something sticking in the movement causing the motor to need a high current, hence the circuit breaker 'blows' and movement stops. It resets when moved to the stop position.
Check for free movement at the actuators and hinges.

 

[spannerman]

Deleted

 

[vas]

agree with previous posters.
assuming (I'd bet!) that without load (rams disconnected from hatch) thing works and wont stop every 5secs, the issue could lie in various things (rusted hinges, rams getting tired/humidity/rust in them, etc)

However, it could also be that the electronics board or whatever is there with the transistors on it has some components getting out of bounds and wrongly assuming that the thing is overloaded. The 5sec is a very consistent output for a failing mechanical assembly! Further, there's no way the ram goes through the same Nm when trying to just lift the hatch from flat to when it's almost vertical or whatever. The load and torque should be v.different. Same applies (even more so!) when lowering the thing. So if it's a real overload mech issue I'd expect that to appear on the first half of lifting stage and definitely not on lowering the hatch!

My bet is on electronics control circuit issues and not pure mechanical/rust related ones.

V.

PS. try to get a DC Amp clamp, note the DC bit, most cheap ones are AC only. that will be the quickest way to diagnose.

 

[About Time]

Sorry for not responding but I have not yet been to the boat to look at hinges and high current
I can add that the actuaters in fact are NEW (so for sure no rust inside)... but acting same as the old ones. I was so sure it was the actuators as they had 20 years on them but not. The new ones act exactly same (same model) so money thrown away, I will let you know what I find.