inverter question - quiet cup of tea

Whitelighter

Whitelighter

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we can, and do, run the genset for a lot of 240v power requirements on the boat.

But it would be nice to be able to power 240v stuff without starting it, especially in quiet anchorages etc.

How simple would it be to convert say, the galley 240v socket, to run of an inverter. What size is needed to boil a small kettle for example?
 
Whitelighter said:
we can, and do, run the genset for a lot of 240v power requirements on the boat.

But it would be nice to be able to power 240v stuff without starting it, especially in quiet anchorages etc.

How simple would it be to convert say, the galley 240v socket, to run of an inverter. What size is needed to boil a small kettle for example?
Click to expand...

I have a 2kW inverter and a switch above the microwave switches it and one galley socket over to the inverter via a simple 240 relay.

This means I can boil the kettle OR use the microwave without the genny.

Best for underway with engines running. It puts a heck of a strain on your batteries otherwise.
 
Really simple.

Inverter as close to the batteries as you can but after the solonoid.

Remote control of inverter optional as they using nothing on standby but it is of course nice to be able to turn it off.

Mains cable to the galley.

Bear in mind they pummel batteries to hell. A 2kw kettle is circa 8.5 amps on 240 but 170 amps odd ( probably a little more due to efficiency issues) on 12v

I would think cheaper and simpler to start the gen !
 
Or investigate additional sound proofing for the geny cabinet .
Then benefit form not so short runs not only to boil a kettle but charge devices and importantly @ anchor top up the house batts .
 
We have a 1800W inverter and 2000W kettle. I just run the gen. I thought about trying to find a low wattage kettle, but as Porto points out running the gen also tops up other things.
 
I've found a solution to the same issue.

s-l300.jpg
 
You can get an inverter charger that will allow a through current, so you just wire your generator up to it, if the generator is running it will just pass through the current, if not, then the inverter will kick in.

e.g.
https://sterling-power.com/collecti...erter-chargers/products/pro-combi-s-12v-2500w

You can get more advanced models that will parallel the generator and inverter if the generator alone cannot supply the required power.
 
I'm with jrudge on this one.
I spend my life trying to reduce the load on the batteries.
I know that starting the gene for a cuppa seems a bit extreme but you can then take the opportunity of running it for an extra 15/20 mins and charging the batteries at the same time.
Remember, assuming that the batteries are some way through their discharge cycle, a short charge could put a lot of charge into the batteries.
For example, typically, our battery charger will put about 60 amps into the batteries when we have a cuppa - Half an hour later it would be down to 20 amps.

So, IMHO, I wouldn't add an inverter just for this.

That said, I did install a 2Kw inverted last year to drive our new domestic fridge. 2Kw is way more than is required but I didn't know the peak starting current for the fridge and it seemed a good idea to have a bigger one. In answer to your opening post, I connected the inverter to the ships main 24v supply via a suitable MCB and then, as jrudge suggested, I just added some 240v sockets in the galley. So, we COULD have a cuppa without running the generator but I don't encourage it and haven't told SWMBO that it is possible. She knows how to start the gene to make tea.

Incidentally, the domestic (Bosch) A++ fridge is way more efficient than the old Dometic marine one. Our main fridge is one of those tall ones with a freezer under. The old Dometic one had two compressors - one for the fridge and one for the freezer. It used to run at just over 3a per compressor (at 24v) - The new Bosch domestic fridge has a single compressor with a maximum total load of 3a (less than half of the Dometic fridge). It has much better insulation so switches off more frequently and there seems to be some extra clever control electronics.
All in all, I'm very pleased with the domestic fridge vs the old marine one.
Sorry a bit of thread drift.
 
I fitted a 2kw Inverter, and wired the 13 amp output into a short shore lead for 'off-shore' power!

Once we leave. the marina, the inverter. gets plugged into the normal shore power socket instead of the normal marina lead and all the boats electrics are usable up to 2kw, although I run the engine if using the 600w multi cooker or heating the calorifier.

Works fine, although battery charger needs to be switched off.

Total cost (pure sine) £140.
 
mcanderson said:
Not much use on an all electric boat.
Click to expand...
That's a good reason to dismiss all electric boats rather than the kettle, 'cause a gas cooktop is better also for cooking! :encouragement:
In fact, I'm a bit surprised to hear that WL doesn't have it on his boat.
J, was the original cooktop replaced, possibly?
 
MapisM, I agree gas is better for cooking, but the all electric boat is a reality and needs work arounds. My cooktop is a Kenyon and apart from the electric rings has alcohol burners which we have used with success.
 
Fairenuff, whatever works.
'Fiuaskme (and my wife), we would have surely got rid of an all electric cooktop, if we would have gone for a boat equipped with it.
In fact, replacing it with the typical one with an electric burner (just in case) and the others on gas is no big deal, in most boats.
But each to their own, of course!
 
MapisM said:
That's a good reason to dismiss all electric boats rather than the kettle, 'cause a gas cooktop is better also for cooking! :encouragement:
In fact, I'm a bit surprised to hear that WL doesn't have it on his boat.
J, was the original cooktop replaced, possibly?
Click to expand...

took it off.

it was horrendous and anyway I dont like gas on boats.
 
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