installing a generator

You could get a water pump 12 v and fit a inlet down stream and lower say a foot or two of the genys
It only needs to be a Y shape bit of metal pipe connected to the exhaust extension kit the geny manufacturers sell .

Then switch this on
On it’s own just seawater runs out of the TTH fitting .
With the geny on it’s sufficient to cool the hot gasses after the Y to the hull .

Some fancy electronic device to interlock the geny so it can’t start with out the pump running ……if you wish .

Interestingly I have two “anchor “ brand 24 v pumps ( it’s a 24 v boat ) on my boat with separate TTH “in “fittings below the WL .
1 is a chain wash for the anchor chain .
2- is in the ER indeed for the geny .
This is at the bottom of the hull so near enough 0.8 M + down pressure wise but water is pumped through the geny .
This is on top of the rubber impeller pump , it as well as .I think it’s interlocked ie runs only with geny on .

Its 370 cc Diesel engines exhaust has a long run btw .
Water is injected into the exhaust stainless steel elbow which is about 30 cm long then this is cooled connected to trad vetus black rubber pipe .This pipe is 3 M or so long runs to the stern .

So the s steel manifold is effectively the Y piece i mentioned .
Where water + hot gas meet .
Incidentally There is a temp guard just a few cm below the meeting point ……so should water flow decrease and temp rise it alarms and switches off .

You could fit a temp guard on your Y down stream as well .

Then google / u tube sound boxes …….plenty of info .

Its a very do able project ….just copy existing designs …………I took CO alarms as read btw in my first response btw .

Blimey what a load of nay say doers ^^^ .

the water thing is easy , use a 24o pump , as the generator runs so will the pump . no need for clever relays
thanks
 
If I may, having spent many years building large scale model planes, exhaust manifolds is one of the very hard things to get right and never last. Every DIY method I have tried and every material I have ever used has eventually failed and needed to be replaced and I have the whole wealth of knowledge of an extremely large world wide hobby group to draw from. Heat, work hardening, vibration and stress. Even the inboards have manifold cooling. By all means knock yourself out by a can do attitude, Darwin loves can-do Fred in his Shed types. They always make delightful reading.
 
No “knocking yourself” out or “Fred in shed needed ” .On the contrary .

Just the OEM ( this is honda ) exhaust extension kit .

B79D841A-344A-460B-ACA6-D343B2339177.jpeg
Like one of theses mated the Y piece + A N other water pump .
AB820093-8CDD-4BDD-8AA5-A0AC4440213C.jpeg

@bruce the exhaust bits already done by Honda Hyundai, or who ever in a plug n play way .No need to even open up the suitcase .
 
If I may, having spent many years building large scale model planes, exhaust manifolds is one of the very hard things to get right and never last. Every DIY method I have tried and every material I have ever used has eventually failed and needed to be replaced and I have the whole wealth of knowledge of an extremely large world wide hobby group to draw from. Heat, work hardening, vibration and stress. Even the inboards have manifold cooling. By all means knock yourself out by a can do attitude, Darwin loves can-do Fred in his Shed types. They always make delightful reading.
why the shitty comment ?

ok . so who said the manifold had to be water cooled ?
the boat has a large vent in the corner . rigging up a fan to help circulate fresh air would not be hard , the exhaust would need to be extended by about 300mm to exit the boat , there is nothing to say it has to exit under the water

I have always said im looking at it as a option , nothing has been said that ill do it anyway

as for can do Fred , I am a electrical engineer , a certificated welder , and a qualified heavy diesel mechanic . I have access to a engineering workshop. , maybe your judging people by your own mistakes , no need to be shitty
 
If I may, having spent many years building large scale model planes, exhaust manifolds is one of the very hard things to get right and never last. Every DIY method I have tried and every material I have ever used has eventually failed and needed to be replaced and I have the whole wealth of knowledge of an extremely large world wide hobby group to draw from. Heat, work hardening, vibration and stress. Even the inboards have manifold cooling. By all means knock yourself out by a can do attitude, Darwin loves can-do Fred in his Shed types. They always make delightful reading.
WATER cooling absent ;) :D
 
C1E3CE62-ED70-4E27-8D9E-059F52F26F79.jpeg
Fisher panda .Above the red line you burn your fingers , below the line see the water injection to the LHS it’s hand warm .

0D9CDC35-2EA2-4250-99FC-F86899875C97.jpeg
Mase Yanmar engine + S steel .Note the water injection and the temp sensor guard / alarm .
Within 20;cm of the Y after the guard it’s turns to black vetus rubber exhaust pipe .

Yours can be the metal like the OEM extension kits to the sea cock , which ought to be above the WL so you hear the trickle as a back up .
You should wrap the hot side , the gas side of the Y in auto heat wrap insulated bandage as well .


I can’t see any issues or down sides as you will be replicating what’s already done with marine genys except the hot bit the un cooled part of the exhaust is just longer .
Indeed I will go further for those with more than 1/2 brain , it’s arguably better .
This is because if you revisit the Fisher panda image the distance for the water injection is so close to the engine there are many folks , Internet traffic if rusty E valves and even flooded engines as it rolls in waves + wake = water runs into open valves = hydrolock.

Thus the longer ( within reason ) the Y , the water injection is away and lower as well , from the cylinder head the better …..hence what’s not to like ?
 
as a electrician I assure you my generator has run our microwave in our caravan faultless for quite a few years , thanks

Fair enough….I had a big diesel generator that would work hard when I used a microwave…but it was a normal house hold job microwave and the generator output wasn’t pure sin wave . Good luck with it.
 
Fair enough….I had a big diesel generator that would work hard when I used a microwave…but it was a normal house hold job microwave and the generator output wasn’t pure sin wave . Good luck with it.
thank you , ours is a 1300w camping microwave , takes a little longer but is great for a hot dinner
pure sin wave is crucial for electronic gear , won't matter with a kettle tho
 
View attachment 124080
Fisher panda .Above the red line you burn your fingers , below the line see the water injection to the LHS it’s hand warm .

View attachment 124081
Mase Yanmar engine + S steel .Note the water injection and the temp sensor guard / alarm .
Within 20;cm of the Y after the guard it’s turns to black vetus rubber exhaust pipe .

Yours can be the metal like the OEM extension kits to the sea cock , which ought to be above the WL so you hear the trickle as a back up .
You should wrap the hot side , the gas side of the Y in auto heat wrap insulated bandage as well .


I can’t see any issues or down sides as you will be replicating what’s already done with marine genys except the hot bit the un cooled part of the exhaust is just longer .
Indeed I will go further for those with more than 1/2 brain , it’s arguably better .
This is because if you revisit the Fisher panda image the distance for the water injection is so close to the engine there are many folks , Internet traffic if rusty E valves and even flooded engines as it rolls in waves + wake = water runs into open valves = hydrolock.

Thus the longer ( within reason ) the Y , the water injection is away and lower as well , from the cylinder head the better …..hence what’s not to like ?

thanks brilliant . thanks so so much
 
Its why small boats have gas, like ours successfully.

Its why big boats don't have petrol suitcase gennies, but proper installations.

I am not quite sure why you cant exist on a boat without a microwave. Sounds like a huge amount of faff for a 'tv dinner' on a boat.

We have a suitcase gennie. predominantly for emergency power or a quick charge of 240v stuff. We will stick it on the nose or @rse, convenient and safe.
 
Its why small boats have gas, like ours successfully.

Its why big boats don't have petrol suitcase gennies, but proper installations.

I am not quite sure why you cant exist on a boat without a microwave. Sounds like a huge amount of faff for a 'tv dinner' on a boat.

We have a suitcase gennie. predominantly for emergency power or a quick charge of 240v stuff. We will stick it on the nose or @rse, convenient and safe.
yet its already been established I can hide it below deck safely . having a securely mounted generator sounds a lot safer than one sitting above deck on a moving boat in the water
boats have had generators installed for years and years , why is it a issue for some to retro fit this ?
the boat already has a petrol engine in the same area , all I am doing is putting another one next to it . sorry but getting out a genny and pull starting it on a boat is dam more dangerous than pushing a remote to start a generator that is secure and all fuel is away from people .
thanks
 
how is this any different

1 - the engine is water cooled. Your suitcase gennie is air. Your engine bay will be redders before you can say 'pass me an extinguisher chief'.
2 - when the engine runs, the boat generally moves and so you have a natural air flow that rids the exhaust gas. Sat in your cockpit wont be pleasant, noise, exhaust and vibration.
 
1 we have already established I can cool it
2 already said I have a large vent so can add a fan
3 its a silent suitcase Genny it was just under £900 so is a high end quiet unit , no vibration if mounted correctly .
if driving the boat when I use it I doubt ill even hear it
it would be so easy to add a 240v pump and fan , this way as soon as it starts up it will automatically turn on pump and fan , no need to remember to do it , I can tee off the 240l petrol tank in the boat so no need to use a vented cap
 
yet its already been established I can hide it below deck safely .

Has it? By who?

having a securely mounted generator sounds a lot safer than one sitting above deck on a moving boat in the water
I never said we would be moving, if we were we'd have 75 amps available from the engine :p

boats have had generators installed for years and years
But not one in the history of boats has left the factory with your set up.

the boat already has a petrol engine in the same area , all I am doing is putting another one next to it .
See t'other post, your technical naivety is something.


sorry but getting out a genny and pull starting it on a boat is dam more dangerous than pushing a remote to start a generator that is secure and all fuel is away from people .
thanks

People have already shown you instances on this thread of people dying with botched line ups of gennies. I bet you cant find one instance of a death of a person conducting a pull start.

It sounds like you have come on here to ask a question that you already have answered in your head.

Good luck and please keep your family away from your boat!
 
because every one who has offered a negative has no real backing to it , I was told I cant water cool it . yet I can
I was told I cant extend the exhaust , yet there is a kit designed to do this exactly
was told it won't power a microwave , yet it will

no one has actually told me a factual reason it cant be done safely

im not angry at all , more annoyed that it seems im told I cant do it , just because thats the way it is , no other reason , yet its been on bigger boats for years . Americans have used them in RV's since the 70s .
 
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