Inboard engine bleeding advice

[Daydream believer]

I know that you have succeeded but for you & others reading the thread
A point to note when doing this
I am told that one should not to run the starter motor for long periods. Short bursts with gaps between
Others with greater mechanical experience might wish to comment

 

[Plum]

I know that you have succeeded but for you & others reading the thread
A point to note when doing this
I am told that one should not to run the starter motor for long periods. Short bursts with gaps between
Others with greater mechanical experience might wish to comment

Depends what you call a "long period". 30 seconds is a wise maximum, but that is quite a long time. However, after 30 seconds the "gaps between" should be at least 2 minutes, 5 would be better. Lots of very short bursts with just a few seconds in between will achieve nothing as there will be no time for the heat to dissipate and far more current surges.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[lustyd]

I am told that one should not to run the starter motor for long periods. Short bursts with gaps between
Others with greater mechanical experience might wish to comment

Probably more important not to run it with a low battery as the voltage will drop causing higher current which will cause more heat and possibly burn out the fine wiring in the winding. Running for a long time will make it hot, but it's probably the battery voltage drop that will kill it before the heat, and the voltage will quickly drop with such a sustained high load. Waiting a few minutes not only lets the starter cool but also allows the battery to recover.

 

[sailoppopotamus]

Will definitely look into getting a bulb installed in the fuel line like someone said! Sounds much better and I’ve seen a video since about this.

Congratulations on sorting this out. While the bub is a common trick employed to make the whole process easier, it is not unheard of inline bulbs developing a leak, the consequences of which can be rather severe. I'm not sure there is a bulb on the market that's certified to the same standard that your fuel hoses should be (A1). So various authorities advise against installing such a bulb. Personally I decided it's not worth the risk.

 

[snowbird30ds]

The extra seal in cav filters is a common thing for causing an air leak, usually mounted in a position so you can't see it while dangling upside down as your legs go gently numb from the neck down as you change the filter.
Glad you got it sorted.

 

[Laysula]

To be honest, I would dump the cav filter and fit a racor 500 type at the next service. saves all that palava.

 

[superheat6k]

I use my fuel polishing system to assist with bleeding the system, especially when changing filter elements.

By arranging the polishing system to push fuel back into the tank i can perform two useful functions ...

1 The partial pressure allows fuel to prime into primary filters and through the lift pump right through the secondary filter and into the body of the injection pump.

2 This is also useful should a piece of sludge ever block the pickup.

Also to note when bleeding, the pipes from the injection pump to the injectors can form an air cushion that prevents the fuel jerk opening the injector. So slightly loosening the pipe at each injector, spin the engine over and when fuel starts emitting from the loosened pipe joint, nip these up and the engine can then fire.

 

[Blueboatman]

Well done the OP

 

[zulloboy]

Daydream believer said:


I am told that one should not to run the starter motor for long periods. Short bursts with gaps between
Others with greater mechanical experience might wish to comment



That's certainly true with compression. But if you have the cylinders decompressed, the starter will be drawing a fraction of its normal operating current and heating will be corresponding less.

So if you're cranking decompressed to speed up bleeding, it shouldn't be a concern.

Cheers, Graeme