In general, how are windows fitted/replaced in small GRP sailing yachts?

[NingNong247]

Let's say a sailing boat needs it's windows replaced, and we're going to do it ourselves, given we have good general DIY skills, access to a good variety of tools, and time.

Is it a case of the only realistic way to go about it is to buy it as a ready made spare part, and every boat design has their own supplier, etc? Or is it realistic to fabricate them oneself? Perhaps there's something in the middle - kits that are generic windows which work on most boats, and then you just adjust them to fit the model of boat in question.

I'm particularly wondering about the curvature you see in many yacht windows, and how that tends to be achieved by the non-professional boat builder, should they have to replace a window like that themselves.

Having grown up on canal boats, I look at most things that might need doing on a sailing yacht and have an idea of how to tackle it should I need to, but the window thing is something I don't really have a frame (lol) of reference for.

 

[jamie N]

I replaced all of the windows on my wooden Folkboat a couple of years ago without any great sweat. I used the 'old' windows as the template, scribed the outline on the new perspex, and cut away with a handheld jigsaw, then if any adjustment or trimming was needed, I did those with either a plane set very finely, or an orbiter.
The 'glass' is set into recesses in the cabinsides which is where I liberally applied CT1, then reaffixed the outer frame over it all, using the holes that were already there.
The windows were all pretty much flat, so that wasn't really a problem; again CT1 is your friend here.
As you're undoubtedly become aware of, all boats are different....
Isn't it fun though.... .

 

[Stemar]

Mine were something like this.

I tried new seals, both between frame and cabin and between frame and perspex. Worked sort of, ish, for a while. What did work finally was to cut the angle part off, turning an h into an l. I then got new perspex the size of the outside of the frames and drilled it to match the existing holes in the frames. I then fitted it with, butyl tape, perspex, neoprene tape then the ally as a trim on the outside. Inside, as the edges of the window holes weren't brilliant, I made trim from 3mm marine ply.



I reckon it looked OK and, best of all, no leaks.

 

[PCUK]

For curves heat the perspex with hot water or hot air gun. Bed down using choice of sealant, window seal tape or silicone. Fit a washer on the screw (bolt?) between the superstructure and perspex to prevent all the selant being squeezed out while tightening. (Standard professional practice).

 

[NingNong247]

For curves heat the perspex with hot water or hot air gun. Bed down using choice of sealant, window seal tape or silicone. Fit a washer on the screw (bolt?) between the superstructure and perspex to prevent all the selant being squeezed out while tightening. (Standard professional practice).

Is there a limit to how far you can take this before it distorts too much, or is it just a question of going slow? (the curving)

 

[Tranona]

Let's say a sailing boat needs it's windows replaced, and we're going to do it ourselves, given we have good general DIY skills, access to a good variety of tools, and time.

Is it a case of the only realistic way to go about it is to buy it as a ready made spare part, and every boat design has their own supplier, etc? Or is it realistic to fabricate them oneself? Perhaps there's something in the middle - kits that are generic windows which work on most boats, and then you just adjust them to fit the model of boat in question.

I'm particularly wondering about the curvature you see in many yacht windows, and how that tends to be achieved by the non-professional boat builder, should they have to replace a window like that themselves.

Having grown up on canal boats, I look at most things that might need doing on a sailing yacht and have an idea of how to tackle it should I need to, but the window thing is something I don't really have a frame (lol) of reference for.

A "how long is a piece of string" question as there are many ways of fixing windows in boats from the simple bolted through perspex as described here to fully framed opening windows (portholes?). Most of these can be replaced or repaired DIY even if some, particularly framed ones can be challenging because of corrosion of both the frames and fastenings. There are specialist companies that refurbish windows and supply parts and materials.

When you get your boat and it needs work then post your specific problem here or the owners association site (if there is one) for advice. Plenty of articles in PBO magazine on the subject of window repairs as well as youtube

BTW when asking questions here it is much more helpful to provide specific information about the problem - general questions like this only get general answers. For example if you want comments on a specific boat you might consider buying then any photos, details of the model of boat or a link to the particulars will get you useful feedback.

 

[Boathook]

Let's say a sailing boat needs it's windows replaced, and we're going to do it ourselves, given we have good general DIY skills, access to a good variety of tools, and time.

Is it a case of the only realistic way to go about it is to buy it as a ready made spare part, and every boat design has their own supplier, etc? Or is it realistic to fabricate them oneself? Perhaps there's something in the middle - kits that are generic windows which work on most boats, and then you just adjust them to fit the model of boat in question.

I'm particularly wondering about the curvature you see in many yacht windows, and how that tends to be achieved by the non-professional boat builder, should they have to replace a window like that themselves.

Having grown up on canal boats, I look at most things that might need doing on a sailing yacht and have an idea of how to tackle it should I need to, but the window thing is something I don't really have a frame (lol) of reference for.

As per @Tranona what type of windows. Mine are in an aluminium frame. Some same size boats have Perspex bolted in place with no frame.

 

[Alwind]

I did replace Plexiglas windows a few years agon on my sail boat and glued that with Pantera (a competitor to Sika). One major issue which needs to be considered is that plastic glass (e.g. Plexiglas) has a substantial higher thermal extension as RFP. So, the glue may be overstressed. The only solution is to have a proper thickness of glue between the cabin and the glasses. I had 6mm considered. How to keep such a distance is rather easy by getting a stroke of the glue hardened and cut that into 6mm "discs". These discs are glues to the cabin before starting to fix the entire window. After that is finished, the window can be glued to the cabin having the 6mm distance (in my case).

 

[Alwind]

 

[PetiteFleur]

I used Butyl tape to fix my aluminium framed windows to the grp, but you must fit a small stainless steel washer between the grp and frame where the fixing screws are fitted. The washers prevent all the butyl tape from squeezing out completely. Start at the centre of the frame and work your way to the ends so the perspex is evenly bent.

 

[alahol2]

There's a document on this page that describes the process of replacing bolted on acrylic windows.

 

[Neeves]

As Tranona says there are many ways to attach windows and without your being more specific we will not give you the detail you want or need. Today virtually everyone has a camera in their phone I simply don't understand why people, like you, don't use them. It costs nothing.

Our windows had no frames the acrylic was set into recesses in the fibre glass mouldings. Our windows are slightly curved and we found out how the originals were attached when we took them out. Simple stuff - they screwed 2 battens lengthwise with the screw going through the overlap of the adhesive. This way you can induce the bend, slightly. They then back filled the screw hole when they removed the batten. To keep the whole lot and in place we slung 25l water containers off the boom to add some pressure to the acrylic as it set off. We made up card formers and had the windows cut to size by an acrylic processor.

As mentioned there are specific adhesives, sealants for acrylic with specific instructions on how to use the acrylic. Follow them - don't try to be clever.

Work out how you are going to induce the curve, have all the stuff you need to induce the curve ready. Do one window at a time, take one out, needs patience, clean up, needs more patience, apply adhesive, sealant, place window on sealant, fix one side of window (with batten or screws through precept holes, then induce curve with other batten or screws through edge etc etc.

Tell us more and we will tell you more.

Jonathan

 

[Refueler]

The U channel frames found on many 'older' boats ..... an old trick was to use old bicycle inner tube stretched round the perspex and then bedded into the U .... any leak after - usually just a tiny drop was fixed with windscreen sealant or later Captain Tolleys.

Many people used one of the Sikaflex products - but then its a ******** later if you want to service the window ...........

The windows on my boat - I can take the frames out - but where they were originally Sika'd into the U channels - it would literally mean damaging the frames to release the perspex from the frames. I tried but had to accept that Capt Tolleys would have to do the job.

 

[davidaprice]

I learnt a useful trick which I used on my Maxi 999's windows. They are frameless and fit against a wide rebate in the fibreglass cabin sides, held in by a few screws and lots of Sikaflex. The trick is to first put rubber D-profile draught excluder tape around the inner edge of the recess. This gives a neat finish seen from inside, stops Sikaflex spilling over inside, and means that when you screw the screws tight the perspex rests against the tape and leaves plenty of Sikaflex between the perspex and the fibreglass.