I have a problem .... with a KAD 300 ---where are you Spannerman ?

[RIMCOas01]

There you are ..... Many thanks.

The boat is out of the water now and in storage .... so cannot test anything ... but have printed out everyones comments and shall present them to the local VP service people over the weekend.

Many thanks all ... shall inform you of the outcome so that it can be added to any bible that might be in someone's keeping.

M

 

[Anjens]

This is an old thread, but I am struggling with idential problems. Engine behaves perfectly normal when starting in the morning and rev's up to plane speed without any problems. But after having on the plane for some time and getting the engine warm (coolant temp 90 degr celcius) and then slowing down to idle speed it enters limp mode when trying to accelerate again. The compressor sounds abnormal with a wierd resonating sound to it just as if it cannot push the air forward. Compressor works fine - spins the clutch plate with my forefinger.

@spannerman or @volvopaul or @RIMCOas01: any new clues how to solve the problem since 2007?

 

[volvopaul]

This is an old thread, but I am struggling with idential problems. Engine behaves perfectly normal when starting in the morning and rev's up to plane speed without any problems. But after having on the plane for some time and getting the engine warm (coolant temp 90 degr celcius) and then slowing down to idle speed it enters limp mode when trying to accelerate again. The compressor sounds abnormal with a wierd resonating sound to it just as if it cannot push the air forward. Compressor works fine - spins the clutch plate with my forefinger.

@spannerman or @volvopaul or @RIMCOas01: any new clues how to solve the problem since 2007?

Before anyone can help we need the faultcode .

 

[Anjens]

Thanks for replying! No faultcode(s) on the EDC panel at the helm, but I am waiting for the local Volvo Penta engineer to find time to do a reading with a VODIA to see if any hidden codes are registered.

 

[Anjens]

Thank you for replying! No fault code(s) on the EDC panel at the helm, but I am waiting for the local Volvo Penta engineer to do a reading with a Vodia to see if there are any hidden fault codes.

 

[Grubble]

This is an old thread, but I am struggling with idential problems. Engine behaves perfectly normal when starting in the morning and rev's up to plane speed without any problems. But after having on the plane for some time and getting the engine warm (coolant temp 90 degr celcius) and then slowing down to idle speed it enters limp mode when trying to accelerate again. The compressor sounds abnormal with a wierd resonating sound to it just as if it cannot push the air forward. Compressor works fine - spins the clutch plate with my forefinger.

@spannerman or @volvopaul or @RIMCOas01: any new clues how to solve the problem since 2007?

RIMCOas01 didn't bother to update this thread with the solution to his problem, but he posted it in another thread:-

*** By the way the problem with the compressor I wrote of earlier was caused by a battery/- charging problem
- did you know that when the compessor in a VP initially cuts in it draws power from the battery !

Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?153302-WHAT-IS-LOGIC#lhg0ZIbowt4MjVJt.99

 

[Anjens]

Before anyone can help we need the faultcode .

Thank you for replying, Volvopaul! No fault code(s) reported at the EDC panel at the helm, but I will have the local Volvo Penta engineer to see if a Vodia can read any hidden fault codes from the engine.

 

[Anjens]

RIMCOas01 didn't bother to update this thread with the solution to his problem, but he posted it in another thread:-

*** By the way the problem with the compressor I wrote of earlier was caused by a battery/- charging problem
- did you know that when the compessor in a VP initially cuts in it draws power from the battery !

Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?153302-WHAT-IS-LOGIC#lhg0ZIbowt4MjVJt.99

Yes, that is too bad as I am really curious. I find it hard to believe that it was a battery/charger problem causing problems with his compressor. The magnetic clutch draws approximately 4A when engaged(resistance of the magnetic spool is 3,4 ohms) and I will argue that the (starter-) battery connected to the running engine will cope with that any day of the week. But if RIMCOas01 says so...

 

[volvopaul]

Thank you for replying! No fault code(s) on the EDC panel at the helm, but I am waiting for the local Volvo Penta engineer to do a reading with a Vodia to see if there are any hidden fault codes.

Hidden fault code is inactive so won’t be the problem

 

[Anjens]

Hidden fault code is inactive so won’t be the problem

As the problem is intermittent, i.e. engine works fine in the morning but not when thoughly warm, I was hoping that there would be some clues as to what is not working properly before recovering overnight. According to the EDC-1 workshop manual the KAD300 stores fault codes that are displayed on for example KAD44P-A but not on KAD300; for example 3.2 charge air temperature sensor error, 6.1 fuel temperature high, 6.2 charge air temperatur high or 6.3 fuel temperature sensor error. All of them potentially causing limp mode. Or am I mistanken?

 

[volvopaul]

As the problem is intermittent, i.e. engine works fine in the morning but not when thoughly warm, I was hoping that there would be some clues as to what is not working properly before recovering overnight. According to the EDC-1 workshop manual the KAD300 stores fault codes that are displayed on for example KAD44P-A but not on KAD300; for example 3.2 charge air temperature sensor error, 6.1 fuel temperature high, 6.2 charge air temperatur high or 6.3 fuel temperature sensor error. All of them potentially causing limp mode. Or am I mistanken?

The codes are stored but inactive codes won’t give a problem.

 

[kashurst]

probably a bit obvious but have you checked that the wires from the supercharger are not pinched or trapped any where?
I had a stop solenoid on a 71B that wouldn't work when the engine was properly warmed up. Turned out to be a wire trapped between two metal parts. It had been like that when it left the Volvo factory 12 years before.

 

[Anjens]

probably a bit obvious but have you checked that the wires from the supercharger are not pinched or trapped any where?

The compressor clutch is brand new (non-specialist mech’s advise) and the close-by wires moving freely. Not ruling out anything now, so l will check all compressor and sensor wires best I can. Thanks.

 

[Anjens]

Using Vodia the VP mechanic could read errors:
”5:3 - Compressor. Short-circuit to +”
”5:3 - Compressor. Disconnected or short-circuit to -”
”8:2 - Internal error in control unit. Faulty boost pressure sensor, value to low.”

Fault code 5:3 makes sense because I disconnected the compressor deliberately. He recommended that I replace the boost sensor in the EDC unit (part no 881708). If the sensor doesn’t sense any boost/error the EDC will not increase fuel/enter limp mode. He could however not explain why the error is only when the engine is warm.

He said it is possible to carefully carve away the gel-like substance Volvo for some reason has poured over the circuit board and the boost sensor. I guess this makes sense, but appreciate comments and useful advise carving out the boost sensor.

 

[QBhoy]

Does it throw black smoke at the time ?

 

[Anjens]

Does it throw black smoke at the time ?

Difficult to say. I pull back the throttle when I hear and feel something is wrong. When testing for a few seconds I have never noticed black smoke when looking back. The sterndrive (DP-G) doesn’t help seeing smoke.

 

[petem]

Using Vodia the VP mechanic could read errors:
”5:3 - Compressor. Short-circuit to +”
”5:3 - Compressor. Disconnected or short-circuit to -”
”8:2 - Internal error in control unit. Faulty boost pressure sensor, value to low.”

Fault code 5:3 makes sense because I disconnected the compressor deliberately. He recommended that I replace the boost sensor in the EDC unit (part no 881708). If the sensor doesn’t sense any boost/error the EDC will not increase fuel/enter limp mode. He could however not explain why the error is only when the engine is warm.

He said it is possible to carefully carve away the gel-like substance Volvo for some reason has poured over the circuit board and the boost sensor. I guess this makes sense, but appreciate comments and useful advise carving out the boost sensor.

This is the boost sensor (881708)...

If your mechanic is suggesting that you start tampering with the EDC unit itself then I would run away very quickly and find a new mechanic.

What I would recommend is that you or your mechanic carefully unplug, check for corrosion and clean every connector. I had a weird intermittent issue causing over-revving and over-fueling and this seems to have been cured by simply cleaning the connections.

 

[Anjens]

Very kind of you to provide a picture of the boost sensor, thank you! I reckon that the top is where the connection to the EDC is located. Pictures from other angles would be great. Well, tampering with the EDC unit itself is inevitable if the boost sensor is malfunctioning. Its either trying to replace it or buy a new EDC unit at ten times the cost (3000 euro). If you mean tampering with the EDC unit yourself I can understand, but I can always handover the job to him if I feel overwhelmed.

I definitely agree that examining the tube from the manifold to the boost sensor is essential before even considering removing the EDC unit. I have not paid any attention to that before and didn’t have the time last night. Examining the connection from the boost sensor for corrosion means I will have to tamper with the EDC unit as it is imbedded in protective material together with the EDC circuit board (as I am sure you know). Sadly the EDC corrosion protection is mostly about VP revenue protection as I think there are other less destructive corrosion protection methods available. At least the boost sensor need not be imbedded in glue together with the circuit board. Removing the EDC unit from the body is not that complicated, but if you can share your experience of replacing the boost sensor in the EDC it would be very helpful.

 

[volvopaul]

Very kind of you to provide a picture of the boost sensor, thank you! I reckon that the top is where the connection to the EDC is located. Pictures from other angles would be great. Well, tampering with the EDC unit itself is inevitable if the boost sensor is malfunctioning. Its either trying to replace it or buy a new EDC unit at ten times the cost (3000 euro). If you mean tampering with the EDC unit yourself I can understand, but I can always handover the job to him if I feel overwhelmed.

I definitely agree that examining the tube from the manifold to the boost sensor is essential before even considering removing the EDC unit. I have not paid any attention to that before and didn’t have the time last night. Examining the connection from the boost sensor for corrosion means I will have to tamper with the EDC unit as it is imbedded in protective material together with the EDC circuit board (as I am sure you know). Sadly the EDC corrosion protection is mostly about VP revenue protection as I think there are other less destructive corrosion protection methods available. At least the boost sensor need not be imbedded in glue together with the circuit board. Removing the EDC unit from the body is not that complicated, but if you can share your experience of replacing the boost sensor in the EDC it would be very helpful.

Changing the boost sensor is a very easy task , it just pulls away from the gel like cover .
If he isn’t up to the job then as said move on .

 

[Anjens]

Changing the boost sensor is a very easy task , it just pulls away from the gel like cover .
If he isn’t up to the job then as said move on .

Thanks, that is good to hear. It is more the other way around and I enjoy working on the boat. But getting it right is more important than enjoying or saving money.