I don't think so, JDS!

[Mirelle]

I don\'t think so, JDS!

In the current (February) edition there is a little piece about kedging off, and a photo of a younger Sleightholme rowing out a kedge, which is shown (in this case, a Danforth) hooked over the transom of the dinghy which he is rowing. There is a lot of twaddle about stowing your kedge aft, or in a locker, etc., there is no mention of whether to lay the anchor and row back or belay the warp and row out, but the advice given is indeed to hook the kedge over the transom as you row it out.

Those of us who were brought up nicely, or who read their FB Cooke, were taught to hang the kedge off the transom with a bit of hambroline made up with a slip knot on the thwart.

If you do as JDS is shown doing, and as he seems to recommend, when you get to the end of the line you will have to boat your oars, move aft in the dinghy (risking an upset) and pick up the anchor and chuck it (again, risking an upset, and allowing the warp to pull you back to the boat).

Furthermore, the operation is impossible in an inflatable or a folder, if done this way, as there is no, or no adequate, transom.

Having had to lay out a 112lb Fisherman from a 6ft6ins pram in deadly earnest, in an ice field and a strong tide, I doubt if I, or the boat would be around now if I had done as YM apparently recommends its readers to do.

 

[Guest]

Re: I don\'t think so, JDS!

Exactly so. Here! Here! But I don't think JDS has ever claimed to be 'brought up nicely'!

 

[SNAPS]

Re: I don\'t think so, JDS!

I would be interested to have the benefit of your experience.
How would you carry out this operation?

JACKTAR

 

[Mirelle]

Re: I don\'t think so, JDS!

As I described it above.

Place the coiled kedge warp, capsized so that it is free to run out, on the floorboards of the dinghy, belay the end of the warp on the yacht, hang the kedge anchor off the stern transom of the dinghy with a length of light line belayed round the thwart that you are rowing from with a slippery hitch, pull smartly towards the spot where you want to lay the kedge, i.e. in deeper water, if you are aground, with due regard to the need to get upwind and/or uptide, taking short strokes and checking the warp as it runs out with your foot. When you have got the warp taut, take a couple of sharp pulls on the oars and pull the slippery hitch so the kedge drops.

A variant is to drop the kedge and row back to the boat, paying out the warp as you drop downwind and downtide; this is easier, and better if the wind is very strong, but incredibly annoying if you misjudge the length of the warp!

There is very little point in stowing the kedge aft, because you will normally need to belay the warp forward and bring the warp in forward to get the bows round so as to get off - most boats, be they power or sail, will come off easier bows first, and in some cases you can aid the process by shifting weight forwards.

If you are using an Avon or similar you dont have a stern transom, you have a stern tube, and you dont have a rowig thwart, you have a tube, but that makes no practical difference; belay the short line round the tube with a slippery hitch, instead.

The important points are to pay the warp out from the dinghy, not from the yacht's deck, so as to avoid dragging the warp through the water, and to hang the kedge anchor off so you don't have to stand up and move aft in the dinghy to drop it. Quite a few people have drowned trying to chuck anchors out of dinghies.

 

[jamesjermain]

Another solution

I agree entirely with your point about the light line and slippery hitch.

Howe3ver, the problem with rowing out a kedge is always that of actua`lly pulliong against the weight of all that warp. In any depth of water, and particularly in an inflatable, you are soon doing the music hall trick of one forward and two back.

This idea was described to me by a friend. I have never tried it but I can't see why it should not work.

Take the kedge and heavy warp (chain even) to a suitable distance from the boat (ensure you have enough and to spare). Drop it all over the side attached with a light line to a fender acting as a marker buoy. With a further piece of light line (or an extention of the same line) row easily back to the boat.
Use this 'messenger' to haul aboard the heavy warp/chain and adjust to length with windlass.

It sounds a bit long winded, but it does mean you can get a warp of serious breaking strain a sensible distance from the boat without having to call out the local mooring barge.

JJ

 

[jamesjermain]

Another solution.

I agree entirely with your point about the light line and slippery hitch.

Howe3ver, the problem with rowing out a kedge is always that of actua`lly pulliong against the weight of all that warp. In any depth of water, and particularly in an inflatable, you are soon doing the music hall trick of one forward and two back.

This idea was described to me by a friend. I have never tried it but I can't see why it should not work.

Take the kedge and heavy warp (chain even) to a suitable distance from the boat (ensure you have enough and to spare). Drop it all over the side attached with a light line to a fender acting as a marker buoy. With a further piece of light line (or an extention of the same line) row easily back to the boat.
Use this 'messenger' to haul aboard the heavy warp/chain and adjust to length with windlass.

It sounds a bit long winded, but it does mean you can get a warp of serious breaking strain a sensible distance from the boat without having to call out the local mooring barge.

JJ

 

[Mirelle]

Good idea

My only criticism is that, if you are in the common situation of having grounded on a falling tide, and you are in the usual tearing hurry, it would take too long. But if you were, say, aground on an exposed sandbank and wanted to lay out the bower and chain before the tide returned, it would be a very good way to do it (assuming you have enough rope!)