How and where would I grease the wheels of this trolley?

steve yates

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I bought a sh boat trolley at my club 2 years ago, its based on an old truck chassis with acrows bolted onto it. I had it towed to the yard, the boat lifted on and towed back, and its sat there for over a year.
I need to have it towed back to the yard and am thinking Ihave no odea when, if ever, the wheels were greased. So, assuming it is something that should be done, and they are not sealed units, can anyone tell from these pics how I grease them, with a grease gun? and where the brease goes?
Thanks.
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Fr J Hackett

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Yes probably a set of taper roller bearings behind a big nut behind the cap. Don’t over tighten the big nut when you undo it to remove clean and repack the bearings, it may be a castellated nut with locking pin.
 

VicS

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Like Ash 2020 says will replenish the grease around the outer bearing but for a thorough job, especially if they've been immersed in sea water, you will have to remove the hubs, remove the bearings from the hubs, clean away all the old grease, re pack with a suitable grease and reassemble.
While it is all dismantled it would be wise to inspect the bearings and replace if necessary.
 
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simonfraser

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like this, use waterproof grease, may have to take the 'dust guards' out of the bearings, then the grease can get out the other side

have done this on my salt water yard trailer for two years now, no rust on the bearings yet

take the brake shoes out - if you can - they'll rust up any way and wont work if you dunk it in the salt water on regular basis

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William_H

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I imagine it is like my boat trailer bearings. ie tappered bearings. Remove the cap with 4 screws. Under neath you will; find grease and a big nut. Probably locateed with a split pin. You can just shove grease in here.
Better however. jack up the trailer to get load off the wheel. Remove the big nut then pull the wheel with hub off. It will be quite heavy. There will be a small tapered roller bearing under a big washer under the big nut. On the inside you will find a larger tapered roller bearing. The outer cone bearing surface of each bearing will be fixed inside the hub. They can be removed and replaced as they are a press fit. Quite difficult and you may need to get a motor workshop to pres sout the old ones and replace with new. However theya re quite likely to be OK for yard use. The rollers in the cage may be rusted to a horrible lump in which case replace the bearing but use the old inner bearing. (horrible I know to the purists but saves a lot of trouble)
Pack the roller bearing cage with grease. Refit the wheel and big nut. This is tightened to medium tightness then backed off about half a turn. The wheel should spin easily but you can't perceive any slop when you try to twist the wheel front to back. Because it si not tight you need to fit the split pin to stop nut turning.
I dink my trailer in water. I can repack bearings 2 sides ina bout 20 mins. Do it every dunking.
ol'will
 

LiftyK

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Another approach would be to eliminate the cap and instead use bearing savers. These are inexpensive and work well on trailers bearings that will be immersed in sea water when launching and recovering. A spring inside, plus grease, maintains a positive pressure inside the hub so no water can enter.

Discussed here Indespension Bearing savers - RIBnet Forums

Explained here How To Choose Boat Trailer Bearing Protectors | Boating Mag

Example shopping U.K. Bearing Savers ideal for boat trailers for sale - Western Towing
I thought they would be about £15 a pair, when I bought my last pair years ago, so do shop around If you are interested.
 
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