Honda 2

P

Peegee

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Took note of postings last week re servicing/guarantee and agree its not worth paying a small fortune for the service. However the great god of outboard suppliers must be watching , because I'm blowed if I can find my owners manual and wonder if anyone out there can let me know what oil to use in the pinion at the bottom of the leg. ( I think maybe its worth changing the oil for first service ??)
I have drained and refilled sump (if thats what you can call it) cleaned plug, but have not yet drained old petrol from tank, I always ran carb dry after use last season so dont expect any problem from that area, but does anyone think just adding conditioner to old fuel will be enough? Thanks all ....

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Moose

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Sorry if this is not at all helpfull but you could totally neglect it for the next 6 years and it will still run perfectly.
I assume that you are reffering to the gearbox oil, if so I have been advised to use EP 90 in my Evinruide which seems to be perfectly ok. If the oil is not too black and doesnt have too much metal in it then I wouldn't bother changing it, however if you have taken the plug out to see what the oil looks like you may just as well change it all anywat. Definitely change it if you dont know what it is now, you cant mix synthetic and non synthetic oils together.
Why are you going to drain the old petrol? Why not just use it, it won't be too bad,,,,,,will it?

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sailorman

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Hi
i have the book somewhere & will look up spec but i think its 90 grade hypoid as for the fuel just leave as is , i am using last years fuel both in the o/b & lawn mower ( similar engine)

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Metabarca

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I've had a look at my manual (Honda 2.2hp 4-stroke). The gearbox oil (to be changed 10 hours or 1 month after initial use and every 6 months or 50 hours thereafter) is: 0.05l of hypoid SAE#90.
For the engine (same blurb as above): 0.25l of SAE 10W-30

Hope this helps!

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m1taylor

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I am thinking of getting a Honda 2.3 as a spare outboard due its light weight and the fact that its air cooled (no flushing or clogging). How do users of this engine rate it ?

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Talbot

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If you get one, dont forget to buy the ear defenders. Furthermore, you MUST pay attention to which way you place the engine in the boot of your vehicle - the wrong way = oil all over boot. Plus points are the air cooling and the centrifigal clutch. The weight that they advertise is a dry weight (i.e. not including any fuel or oil)

Having looked at that, I replaced my old 2hp yamaha with a 3.5 Tohatsu and am VERY pleased with it. Far more power, quiet, not much more weight than the old Yam, and a neutral gear.

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m1taylor

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I am surpised about the comment on noise - Honda seem to make a virtue of the fact that being a 4 stroke it is quieter than a 2 stoke!

I would be interested in what boats people have use this on and to what degree of success - ie can it act as a back up engine on a small yacht, or is it too feeble?

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Talbot

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as has already been said, the lack of a water jacket means that you get a lot of noise. My neighbour in my marina has complained about a heavy kickback on a couple of occasions. The fact that it is a four stroke single cylinder means that you really have to spin it well when trying to start.

I on a couple of occasions have pushed my 4 ton cat with the old 2 hp yam, but it was flat calm, at top of tide and no wind, otherwise I would have needed assistance. I am sure that the new 3.5 Tohatsu would have enough power to do a LOT better.

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mirabriani

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I agree the three and half Tohatsu is good, now around £370 Pushes my 24 footer at nearly 5 knots in calm water. Of course it struggles more against the wind in a chop but in two seasons I have not had to use my 9.9 hp at all. Incidently my friend has paid £570 for 4 hp Mariner and seems to have the same engine as me except for forward and reverse gearbox.
Briani

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sailorman

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I HAVE FOUND THE HAND BOOK


HONDA BF 2

ENGINE OIL
10 > 30 SF,SG Spec ( 10> 44 OK) CAPACITY .25 Ltr
G/BOX HYPOID 90 .05 Ltr
PLUG GAP .60 > .70 m/m
VALVES Inlet .06 > . 10 m/m
Exhaust .09 > .13 m/m


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Becky

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This is very interesting for me as I have had to let my Mariner 3.3 and inflatable go with my boat-( I have just sold). Now I have to find another outboard and dinghy, and had decided that the Yam 2.3 4-stroke would be the engine of choice, mainly because my partner thinks that 4-strokes are more eco-friendly. But the little Mariner was very light, easy to use and start, and pushed the dinghy like a speed boat, so I will miss it. Also I am concerned about storage- you can put a 2-stroke down any way you like. It seems that this isn't the case with 4 strokes. Any advice out there? Apologies if I am pinching someone else's post

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scarlett

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I've had mine for 5/6 years and it is trouble free. It is a bit noisy if you open the throttle more than neccesary but under normal conditions its OK. 'Servicing' is a doddle once a year and the weight is nothing. Laying it the wrong side down would be a difficult mistake to make.

The big advantages are that when travelling with a following wind you do not get choaked by fumes as with my old two stroke. And starting in neutral removes the element of surprise moving off when it starts. Its neutral facility is useful when entering an area with underwater obstructions.

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whisper

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Herewith the facts from an anorak :-
Honda 2.3 - 4stroke - aircooled - noisier at high revs than norm - centrifugal clutch - store upright or on one side only - Wt 12kg
Johnson 3.5 - 2stroke - no storage probs - wt 13.5kg
Mariner & Mercury 2.5 & 3.5 - 2 stroke - wt 13kg
Suzuki - don't seem to do anything less than a 4hp 4stroke now according to their web pages.
Tohatsu 2.5 2stroke - wt 12.5kg Tohatsu 3.5 2 stroke - wt 13kg
Yamaha 2.5 4stroke - same storage as Honda - FNR gears - twist grip throttle - wt 17kg
Here endeth the lesson !!
For what it's worth I'd choose something with atleast F & N gears which may preclude the 2.5hp 2strokes. I've just bought a Honda 2.3 for its light weight and centrifugal twist grip controls, but haven't used it yet.

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Metabarca

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I have the Honda 2.2. It's not hard to start. The clutch needs a little getting used to but then works very well. I find it rather stiff to turn, however. Certainly, the engine makes a rather rattly noise and it's not quiet. But then, no oil to mix, less polluting, no clogging of cooling system.

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Metabarca

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"If by the clutch being stiff you mean the twistgrip throttle, it is actually adjustable, ours is loose so if you let go it closes to tickover and not in gear. "

No, that's fine (the little thumbscrew job on the throttle). I mean actually using the throttle lever as a tiller to steer the dinghy. The bolt that controls the stiffness is as loose as possible. I find I have to shove the bar much more than on old two-stroke I used before, and then yank it back to the amidships position. Do others have this problem?

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