Hole in raw water exhaust manifold!

[knuterikt]

No it's an M90 4.236 type LD. the Exhaust Outlet Elbow is similar to this but not quite.

https://www.parts4engines.com/perkins-exhaust-4-108m-outlet-elbow/

This is for 4.108 my old engine, the problem with these is that the inside corrodes, if sufficiently is corroded away inside the sea water injected splashes into the engine head and accelerates corrosion in there.
According to my mechanic costly damages can often be traced back to corroded exhaust elbows.

 

[Tim Good]

Yeah it does look especially tidy where it has been leaking to be honest.

What's the best course of action there? Wire brush what I can and rinse with fresh?

View attachment 65574

 

[Tim Good]

Oh dear what a nightmare.

Ok so I had a local, apparently reputable company weld the hole. They charged me £60 per hour for 6 hours for a small weld and wouldn't give me back the part until I paid £360. I then spent 4 hours getting it back on to find the weld try did is still leaking!. Now they saying it isn't leaking from their weld but another hole which is frankly rubbish.

No missed weather window to depart, £360 down and not fixed.

On top of that I manage to strip the treads inside the block of the manifold which this exhaust elbow attacheds so I can only attached it with 3 bolts now. What are my options there? Is there any way to easily get that threaded studs back into the block securely?

 

[No Regrets]

If possible, helicoil the stripped threads, and, IMHO you should have drilled and tapped the hole to accept a nice big short bolt with a copper washer to block the hole. This would have been a quite acceptable repair for short to medium term on a very low pressure fitting. 6 hours!? seriously?

 

[ghostlymoron]

That's terrible. It's unlikely you'll get any redress.

 

[Bobc]

Sounds like these welders were robbers.

If you can get hold of a tube of Leak-stop (plasic padding), you can gob it up inside and out (so it can't fall out), which will probably sort it until you can get a new one.

As far as the stripped thread, you can either helicoil it or drill and tap it up one size.

 

[Heckler]

Oh dear what a nightmare.

Ok so I had a local, apparently reputable company weld the hole. They charged me £60 per hour for 6 hours for a small weld and wouldn't give me back the part until I paid £360. I then spent 4 hours getting it back on to find the weld try did is still leaking!. Now they saying it isn't leaking from their weld but another hole which is frankly rubbish.

No missed weather window to depart, £360 down and not fixed.

On top of that I manage to strip the treads inside the block of the manifold which this exhaust elbow attacheds so I can only attached it with 3 bolts now. What are my options there? Is there any way to easily get that threaded studs back into the block securely?

Now you have the bit off , can you see the hole from the inside of the casting? Is it aluminium or cast? Drill the knackered casting the next size up and tap the exhaust the next size up.
If you can see the hole, drill it out a bit, get a bolt in from the inside with penny washers and sealing washers on and try and seal it with that.
As others have said it looks like the raw water injection side, not much pressure there. Thinking on now tht the welder has messed around it would probably be clean enough to use JB weld or similar.
Stu

 

[Tim Good]

get a bolt in from the inside with penny washers and sealing washers on and try and seal it with that.

Yeah that's exactly what I've done now with some high temp sealant and some nitrile rubber. Will know if it works tomorrow!

View attachment 65617

 

[Normalfornorfolk]

And while you're at it how about namong and shaming the "apparently reputable" engineering Co that so blatantly ripped you off?

If you cut the whole engine in half with an angledrinder and welded it back together it wouldn't take 6 hrs!

A pinhole leak job like yours might take 6 minutes!

I'd be onto trading standards about them, but in the meantime I reckon there are lots of yotties out there who'd appreciate not falling into the hands of rogues like that.

 

[vyv_cox]

A pinhole leak job like yours might take 6 minutes!

As I said many posts ago, corroded aluminium is always difficult to repair. The welder is constantly filling blow holes in the corroded metal: these are not visible until heat is applied. Many welders will not even agree to try. Six hours does seem excessive though.

 

[ghostlymoron]

Do they have trading standards in Stavanger?

And while you're at it how about namong and shaming the "apparently reputable" engineering Co that so blatantly ripped you off?

If you cut the whole engine in half with an angledrinder and welded it back together it wouldn't take 6 hrs!

A pinhole leak job like yours might take 6 minutes!

I'd be onto trading standards about them, but in the meantime I reckon there are lots of yotties out there who'd appreciate not falling into the hands of rogues like that.

 

[Tim Good]

And while you're at it how about namong and shaming the "apparently reputable" engineering Co that so blatantly ripped you off?

If you cut the whole engine in half with an angledrinder and welded it back together it wouldn't take 6 hrs!

A pinhole leak job like yours might take 6 minutes!

I'd be onto trading standards about them, but in the meantime I reckon there are lots of yotties out there who'd appreciate not falling into the hands of rogues like that.

Hermes Marine Services.

I have a new Perkins part order and will collect from Uk providing the sea trials of this repair go ok today. Has no one come up with a special type of plastic hat can withstand these sorts of exhaust temperatures and could be used as an exhaust elbow?

 

[cpedw]

Has no one come up with a special type of plastic hat can withstand these sorts of exhaust temperatures and could be used as an exhaust elbow?

There is high temperature silicone e.g. http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/high-temperature-silicone which is good for 300 degC. Good for sealing; may not make a whole elbow very well though.

Derek

 

[Tim Good]

One day we'll all have 3D printers in boat and a type of night tensile plastic that can be used for anything. Then just print off any part we need from a fork to an exhaust elbow.

 

[Heckler]

Yeah that's exactly what I've done now with some high temp sealant and some nitrile rubber. Will know if it works tomorrow!

View attachment 65617

That looks good, no need to worry too much about high temperature if it is where the waste water is injected in to the manifold.
I made an SS one for my MD22, where the water injection is it is cool to the touch.
Stu

 

[Heckler]

Yeah that's exactly what I've done now with some high temp sealant and some nitrile rubber. Will know if it works tomorrow!

View attachment 65617

PS write it up for PBO with the pics, just keep to the facts with the contentious bits, that is a good practical PBO job!
Stu

 

[double_ender]

https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/5981afe040f0b61e48000037/MAIBInvReport-18_2017.pdf

Read all about what can happen with leaky exhaust, report just published.

I got my rubber muffler changed a few weeks ago after I found it was leaking gas and water in the stern locker
Malcolm

 

[Tim Good]

PS write it up for PBO with the pics, just keep to the facts with the contentious bits, that is a good practical PBO job!
Stu

Ok so I've written it up for PBO and they're keen to publish it

Anyway, the fix got me all the way back from Stavanger to Plymouth! Not a single drip! I'm not removing it and replacing with a new one. I have some Galvafroid anti corrosion paint... would it be a good idea to paint the elbow inside and out with it? Maybe pointless given the elbow is a type of aluminium alloy.

 

[Heckler]

Ok so I've written it up for PBO and they're keen to publish it

Anyway, the fix got me all the way back from Stavanger to Plymouth! Not a single drip! I'm not removing it and replacing with a new one. I have some Galvafroid anti corrosion paint... would it be a good idea to paint the elbow inside and out with it? Maybe pointless given the elbow is a type of aluminium alloy.

Congrats! Its very special when you see an article published. They like lots of pics. The fee they pay is IIRC £100 a page so it will go some way to paying for that expensive non working welding job!
As to leaving it, I would be looking to do what I did, ASAP sell bits and pieces to make your own elbow. I bought the water injection point itself and used SS pipe fittings to join it up to a SS flange that a local engineering shop made up for me. That was over 3 years ago, I did an article for PBO on that as well. If you did it yourself I bet they would publish it as well as a follow up.
Stu

 

[Heckler]

Congrats! Its very special when you see an article published. They like lots of pics. The fee they pay is IIRC £100 a page so it will go some way to paying for that expensive non working welding job!
As to leaving it, I would be looking to do what I did, ASAP sell bits and pieces to make your own elbow. I bought the water injection point itself and used SS pipe fittings to join it up to a SS flange that a local engineering shop made up for me. That was over 3 years ago, I did an article for PBO on that as well. If you did it yourself I bet they would publish it as well as a follow up.
Stu

PS just looked at the www.parts4engines.com link. If I have got my head around it correctly I would think again and maybe make that one fit. If I get it, the bit that was leaking on yours is where the raw waterconnector was screwed in to the manifold but the link shows one with a flange which is a better idea. If so go for the new one.
S