Help with soldering

Crinan12

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Hi
I'm trying to solder an n connector to the end of my aerial cable
I take it the idea is that you try and get the solder in the tiny hole on the connector so it drips through and makes contact with the inner core of the cable?
I find it really hard. Just getting solder all over the connector and then it hardens
Any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks
 
Why don't you watch a tutorial? (Better than us trying to explain)

How to Solder Wires Together (Best tips and tricks)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zu3...] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3W5Gr4_bi6I
 
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Cheers coop it's not soldering wires together it's soldering an n connector
Yeah I watched a few tutorials but I'm stuck hence the question
The reason I ask is I usually get good advice and often get told something a tutorial won't tell me I.e skip the soldering and just stick it on
 
If I understand what you are doing correctly, put the wire in the hole first, then heat the wire and connector with the iron. Then touch all three with the fluxed solder. Capillary action draws the solder through the gap between wire and hole. Remove iron.
 
Thanks guys
I think I'm not getting the solder hot enough
It's a cheap butane iron from screwfix
Takes an age to get the solder to melt even a wee bit so maybe it's a job for when I've got shore power
Cheers
 
You can get away with most things for a marine VHF connector.

For proper RF work, the best way for many connectors is to get some cored solder wire in a fine size. Cut a few mm of it and insert inside the connector pin. Insert wire and heat until solder shows through the hole.
The idea is to get the absolute minimum of solder on the outside of the centre pin.

If the OP is finding it hard, I suspect the root cause is an iron that's not hot enough and probably lead-free solder.
Either get some proper toxic solder or a better iron. It should heat the metal parts to melt the solder in 1 second.
If it takes longer, the plastic bits will melt while you mess about.
 
I use a butane soldering iron quite happily for this size and the larger pl259 plugs. Heat applied to the fitting will transfer through to the tinned wire inside.

Are you soldering out on deck? If so then shelter the work from any breeze. It doesn't take much movement of air to cool down whatever you're working on.
 
Martin yes I am on deck and there is a bit of breeze actually
It's just I don't have a choice because their isn't enough length in the cable to do it below
 
Martin yes I am on deck and there is a bit of breeze actually
It's just I don't have a choice because their isn't enough length in the cable to do it below

Any movement of air makes it tricky... If you can feel a breeze then I'm sure it's cooling it down.

Solder sounds good. At least it's not silver.. but these days the solder we tend to use contains flux. If yours doesn't then that will add to the difficulty.

Definitely put something (that won't catch fire) around you and the work to stop any breeze though.
 
One thing you need to be aware of is that these unregulated irons can get too hot. All the flux on the iron evaporates off, leaving a hard surface which does not make a good thermal contact. Thermostatically controlled irons do this too but not quite so quickly.

To further what Vic posted:

Clamp the pin so the hole in the side of the pin is on top, preferably in a way that wont suck all the heat from it: tweezers with an elastic band or better, a clothes peg or small hole in a bit of wood.
Immediately before applying the iron to anything, tin it, that is touch it with solder and flick off any excess. This will make a much better thermal contact.
You might tin the wire, but be very sure you dont make it too big for the hole.
Put the wire in the pin and apply heat from the (tinned) iron.
Dab the solder on the hole in the side of the pin.
Remove iron.
Clean and tin iron.
 
Thanks
Yeah when I put solder on the centre core I made it too big to fit the n connector tip onto !
Just watched a video where the chap coats his tip in flux then wraps solder right round the tip then turns the iron on. I hadn't done any of that
I'll give this a go and see how I get on
The hole in the n connector tip is absolutely tiny so it seems quite hard to get the solder to flow into it
In other vidoes I've watched the holes are bigger so it looks a bit easier to me
Thanks !
 
Sn60 pb 40
Thanks does anyone know how much difference the solder makes to the quality of the signal ?

Should be none at all. Your primary signal path is copper to copper with solder holding it all in place. In the real world there will be a layer of copper/solder alloy. Solder isnt such a great conductor compared to copper, but when it completely envelops the join (as in wire in solder bucket or pin) then the cross sectional area is so high it makes up for it.

Given that the part of the signal path that travels through solder is minuscule compared to the cable run, and that the change in conductor geometry where it enters the plug will cause a change in characteristic impedance, so long as the joint is sound, the difference between solders is not going to do anything you would notice.
 
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