Genoa T-rail cars

[Nina Lucia]

Wheels on our genoa cars are cracked and broken. Any suggestions how to repair them or replace them?
I have been told that they are not Lewmar.
Boat is Aphrodite Najad and looks like they are originally fitted over twenty years ago.
I really don't want to replace rail tracks because they are in perfect condition.
Thank you

 

[DinghyMan]

Wheels on our genoa cars are cracked and broken. Any suggestions how to repair them or replace them?
I have been told that they are not Lewmar.
Boat is Aphrodite Najad and looks like they are originally fitted over twenty years ago.
I really don't want to replace rail tracks because they are in perfect condition.
Thank you

Could be Barton?

Like most cars wheels can be removed by carefully drilling out the end of the retaining pin, then knocking out the pin, remove & replace wheel, either refit pin and swage the end over to retain it or replace with pin and nut

 

[Nina Lucia]

Could be Barton?

Like most cars wheels can be removed by carefully drilling out the end of the retaining pin, then knocking out the pin, remove & replace wheel, either refit pin and swage the end over to retain it or replace with pin and nut

It's not Barton. I was thinking something similar, just need to see if I could get similar pin with fittings.

 

[B27]

I don't know who made those, but there are a couple of ebay sellers who offer bespoke acetal sheaves.
I believe some genoa cars MAY be interchangeable between brands of track and car.

 

[RunAgroundHard]

I had similar cars, no obvious branded, same damage. The best replacement was from the Barton Catalogue. They mostly fit standard T track, you just need the dimensions of your T track to compare. I ended up buying a pair so as not to have an odd one.

I think they are plain bearings and you would have to drill out the expanded end piece. Perhaps press out a bush. I wouldn’t imagine it would be that difficult.

 

[Nina Lucia]

I had similar cars, no obvious branded, same damage. The best replacement was from the Barton Catalogue. They mostly fit standard T track, you just need the dimensions of your T track to compare. I ended up buying a pair so as not to have an odd one.

I think they are plain bearings and you would have to drill out the expanded end piece. Perhaps press out a bush. I wouldn’t imagine it would be that difficult.

Thanks, I'll definitely check Barton

 

[William_H]

I have replaced the sheaves on my jib cars. First thing is to remove the car sliding it off the end of the track. Use a sharp drill and lots of pressure to drill out the end of the rivet. Might have to do both sides. The sheave and axle will come out. (note here you need a new "sheave ") Fairly easy to find in nylon.
I used on mine a bit of stainless steel tubing. Just long enough to sit between the cheeks and leave the new sheave free to turn. Space between cheeks and sheave. I then fitted a bolt with nylock nut through the tube to hold it all together.
An alternative is to find a clevis pin. (head on end split pin hole in the other end) of suitable diameter for the sheave. You might have to drill out the holes in the cheeks to get pin through. Split pin to hold it in place. No you won't be able use the original axle which was rivetted at each side.
If all this seems to hard I think you will find replacement cars more expensive than a cheap pillar drill which will serve for many jobs. Stainless steel is hard to drill with hand held drill as it is hard to get the pressure needed. Buy a new drill bit in any case. ol'will

 

[geem]

I am just having the local machine shop make me some sheaves for my mast. Acetal is the material commonly used. It's an easy job for a machine shop

 

[Nina Lucia]

I have replaced the sheaves on my jib cars. First thing is to remove the car sliding it off the end of the track. Use a sharp drill and lots of pressure to drill out the end of the rivet. Might have to do both sides. The sheave and axle will come out. (note here you need a new "sheave ") Fairly easy to find in nylon.
I used on mine a bit of stainless steel tubing. Just long enough to sit between the cheeks and leave the new sheave free to turn. Space between cheeks and sheave. I then fitted a bolt with nylock nut through the tube to hold it all together.
An alternative is to find a clevis pin. (head on end split pin hole in the other end) of suitable diameter for the sheave. You might have to drill out the holes in the cheeks to get pin through. Split pin to hold it in place. No you won't be able use the original axle which was rivetted at each side.
If all this seems to hard I think you will find replacement cars more expensive than a cheap pillar drill which will serve for many jobs. Stainless steel is hard to drill with hand held drill as it is hard to get the pressure needed. Buy a new drill bit in any case. ol'will

Thank you!