Fuel tank leak

Ok here is a photo…

Let me explain what you are looking at…the tank has now been slid out (from the left of the photo) this was only achieved because all the gubbins on the top of the tank was cut off…this allowed the tank to be lifted slightly to clear the engine bearers and still clear the kitchen floor above.
To the left you can see that there is a catchment area under where the tank is installed…this is make from the fibreglass liner. It holds quite a lot…there is another under the engine (which is under the tank as you see it in the photo). These are easily cleaned…excess diesel made it’s way under the liner to the keel and is only accessible by inserting a tube (connected to a scavenger pump) under the shaft (you can see the shaft coupling to the right).
As you can see, a cut has to be made to the floor (under where the sofa usually sat) because it’s too tight to swing the tank around…of course the tank could still be cut up but it will help with the new tank installation…which will be a few inches shorter.
Tomorrow morning I will go have another inspection
 
at last some progress!
odd they need 10holes on the top of the tank though!
each engine counts for two, sender another one, fill and vent another 2 that's 7, missing three :rolleyes: I could almost accept another vent on the other side. Still two missing unless ST was also available with twin engines or an Eber /webasto system could be fed from the tank and then we are almost OK.

V.
 
at last some progress!
odd they need 10holes on the top of the tank though!
each engine counts for two, sender another one, fill and vent another 2 that's 7, missing three :rolleyes: I could almost accept another vent on the other side. Still two missing unless ST was also available with twin engines or an Eber /webasto system could be fed from the tank and then we are almost OK.

V.
On the top of the tank was the inlet and outlet of the engine and generator....the sender unit is just a hole..there is the filler pipe plus breather...plus some tabs to secure the tank to the bulkheads ....and two (?) screw plugs with some kind of handle on them plus some other tabs that I can’t identify
 
Ok...in the first photo above...the tab on the left of the photo is to hold the manual fire suppressor cable (which runs in front of the tank and has a knob under the stairs leading down to the cabins
 
So when is the expected finish date?
Hope it's soon.
We are awaiting the new tank...I have no more information at present...I’m hoping it will arrive very soon..we were quoted 10 days for its fabrication...but is that ten business days? (there was a very long weekend break that’s just finished)...we just wait for that telephone call
 
We are awaiting the new tank...I have no more information at present...I’m hoping it will arrive very soon..we were quoted 10 days for its fabrication...but is that ten business days? (there was a very long weekend break that’s just finished)...we just wait for that telephone call
Thanks for the update.
Did the yard remove the old tank yet?
 
We are awaiting the new tank...I have no more information at present...I’m hoping it will arrive very soon..we were quoted 10 days for its fabrication...but is that ten business days? (there was a very long weekend break that’s just finished)...we just wait for that telephone call
No need to rush to bankrupt yourself filling it with diesel!
 
Do you dose your tanks to keep the fuel dry etc?

Ive often wondered weather med boat tanks sweat more (except Itama obviously….they have special tanks no doubt)
Mixed bag .Stainless steel in most small ones and fibreglass in larger .They are mounted on frames with straps .Air gaps all round FWIW .Amarti would take you out to lunch look you up and down and decide wether he wanted to build a boat for you .
If he granted your approval as a customer you could semi custom the build choose your own spec etc . The boats were expensive and very bespoke.Most owners new there onions were experienced boaters so most were well specced with out of sight stuff like a boring tank.

As far as preventative measures I have ( you can do it too folks ) despite the “ Med “ warmth always dosed at fuel ups with the water dispersant anti bug snake oil .
Double dosing it in the winter lay up .This is primarily to dissolve the water into the fuel to eliminate that water / diesel interface where the bug thrives .
I just assume despite fresh fuel filler O rings , so called warm Med thus hardly any condensation etc etc …that water will end up in there eventually.It’s a wet hobby !
Got clear racors to see any water and I can’t remember ever draining any off .
The tanks ( all 3 of them ) have drain cocks at the lowest points as well .Two main have sight glasses originating at the very bottom .So if you open there cocks the fuel runs into a glass …you can vis it .

This snake oil practice isn’t a prolong the tank issue it’s a primarily mitigation not get a hosing injector leading to a holed piston .

Water at the injector top spits under pressure / temp and the hydrogen melts / destroys the tip = hosing .
If theres anything you could do to minimise that risk then to me seems worth a punt .

Secondary if the snake oil eliminates water and thus latent corrosion at the bottom of a metal tank them I will take that benefit as well thank you .Just in case I miss it with the drain cock and sight glass and racors bowls .

I have mentioned theses goodies ^^^ further up on here as opposed to Beny supplying the same which I understand hasn’t got theses goodies manufactured in , if i understand the pics and descriptions given thus far ?

@ Bouba . Do you use any snake oil ?
Two varieties - 1- dispersant of water .The other an actual antimicrobial kills the bug but leaves the water to potentially corrode .
 
Yes...it had multiple corrosion spots all in the bottom of the tank...I will post some photos when I see it next...
Do you know if the corrosion started outside the tank or inside the tank?

I wonder if due to the way the tank just seems to sit directly on the hull , could the tank end up sitting in a pool of water corroding away from the outside
?

If so,you probably need to address that otherwise you'll have the same issue again in a few years.

Probably need to go on some bearers like portofino keeps mentioning.
 
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Bouba
If they have not started the tank yet and it is possible to get them to incorporate a sump with a drain valve or a stripping line it would help you to remove the water in the future.

I strip my tanks yearly and remove about an egg cup of water and crud each year.

I then use Grotamar 81 with every refuel without fail. I am considering a change to Marine 16?

Personally i would not use a snake oil that dissolves or disperses water in to the diesel I am very concerned about water getting in to my fuel pump or injectors.
 
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