Fastenings for headlining panels

[AntarcticPilot]

I have a Moody 31, and most of the headlining is on thin plywood panels that are screwed to a framework of battens that are glued to the fibreglass. As a lot of wiring runs behind these panels for lighting, instruments and navigation lights, it would be helpful to replace the woodscrews with something a bit easier to do and undo, without the potential to end up with holes in the battens that have become worn and enlarged. I will be replacing the headlining material as well.

I am looking at T-nuts such as these or insert nuts such as these. WHich would be better, or is there a better option? Although Stainless steel is probably not absolutely necessary, I suspect it'll avoid rust marking in future. I would probably use simple dome-headed stainless bolts of appropriate size, perhaps with Allen heads rather than slotted heads.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan? Any suggestions? At present getting the headlining down is not particularly difficult, but putting it back up can be a bit of a pain, especially trying to align the screw holes! It's not exactly an everyday activity, but access to the fittings for masthead fittings especially is something that is needed from time to time.

 

[Sandy]

I pop a matchstick in a number of the holes. Present the headlining back up using the matchsticks to line up then screw the holes without the matchsticks, usually works for me.

 

[AntarcticPilot]

I pop a matchstick in a number of the holes. Present the headlining back up using the matchsticks to line up then screw the holes without the matchsticks, usually works for me.

My main concern is that sooner or later, the screwholes will get worn and no longer grip the screws. Also, I think I'd end up needing 3 hands - one to hold the panel up, one to remove the matchstick and another to insert the screw

 

[PetiteFleur]

I would use the insert nuts (Rivnuts) you mention as you screw them in the right position, preferably with some adhesive to prevent them undoing. The T nuts you mention ideally need inserting from the back of the batten so the prongs bite into the batten and prevent turning. You could use stainless flanged Allen headed screws to fit the panel, perhaps with penny washers.

 

[PCUK]

Heavy duty Velcro!

 

[AntarcticPilot]

Heavy duty Velcro!

Nice idea, but it would have be at the edges of the panels, right where the headlining material wraps round. So you'd be depending on the glue holding the headlining and the foam backing.

 

[Concerto]

I had a similar problem with some timber trim with a bow needed to follow the coachroof sides that was screwed up. The previous owner tried using shortened Rawlplugs, but they did not hold after a couple of years. Then I added matchsticks as well, but these kept failing. Finally the solution was to fill the holes with Gorilla Glue, once expanded trim level and screw into that.

 

[arc1]

Same boat same problem but not using foam liner when I replace the material in a month or so. Plan to try 3M dual lock (velcro alternative). If that doesn't work then rivnuts next on the list.

 

[AntarcticPilot]

Same boat same problem but not using foam liner when I replace the material in a month or so. Plan to try 3M dual lock (velcro alternative). If that doesn't work then rivnuts next on the list.

You'll still be attaching velcro to the headlining material turned round the edge of the plywood panel, so you're still depending on the glue used to stick the headlining down. It might work, but...

 

[rowlock]

These work, use a stainless steel machine screw

 

[arc1]

You'll still be attaching velcro to the headlining material turned round the edge of the plywood panel, so you're still depending on the glue used to stick the headlining down. It might work, but...

I need to change the material anyway so am going to try on an original and leave it until later in the year when replacing it all has moved up the list. If it holds on an original then I'll go for it on all. If not then nothing lost as will be replacing anyway.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

My main concern is that sooner or later, the screwholes will get worn and no longer grip the screws. Also, I think I'd end up needing 3 hands - one to hold the panel up, one to remove the matchstick and another to insert the screw

Break off the matchstick flush with the surface and drive home your screw. Two birds....

 

[lustyd]

Nice idea, but it would have be at the edges of the panels, right where the headlining material wraps round. So you'd be depending on the glue holding the headlining and the foam backing.

You could put in some new battens for the velcro, it’s the standard way to do it these days. I think the gorilla glue idea is probably best though, and make sure you use Monel staples if stapling the fabric

 

[Daydream believer]

If you have difficulty locating screw hiles whilst holding the headlining up , then you will have even greater difficulty trying to locate sockets for machine screws. I would further point out that some types may corrode into the fixing screw & instead of unscrewing the screw one is actually unscrewing the fixing from the batten.
In model making it is common to stiffen the holes in soft material by drilling a pilot hole, Filling with cyno glue to seep into the surrounding material. This hardens it. It may be that it will help with your screw holes if the match sticks ( I would use cocktail sticks-- having first removed the cherry, whilst contemplating the task ) suggested are dipped in superglue first. Then cut flush prior to offering up the panel.

 

[AntarcticPilot]

You could put in some new battens for the velcro, it’s the standard way to do it these days. I think the gorilla glue idea is probably best though, and make sure you use Monel staples if stapling the fabric

I wasn't clear. The existing battens are finished in veneer, and are a visible part of the finishing of the cabin. Replacing them would be a major job, well over my standards of carpentry.

 

[Hydrozoan]

I wasn't clear. The existing battens are finished in veneer, and are a visible part of the finishing of the cabin. Replacing them would be a major job, well over my standards of carpentry.

Ah! I thought that the battens were completely hidden, like mine, with the panels abutting. I used 3M Dual Lock and wood trims screwed into the battens between headlining panels for both support and appearance, thus needing only a few capped screws on edges of high curvature. I had to remove the adhesive on the backs of the pads, score them and use epoxy instead.

(My new headlining was not foam-backed, so it was perhaps easier to remove small sections of the 'return' to accommodate the pads without compromising its attachment - and I was also able to add extra security to the returns by stapling along them craftworkers' 'lollipop' sticks of ca. 2x20 cm, cut as necessary.)

 

[Snowgoose-1]

Ah! I thought that the battens were completely hidden, like mine, with the panels abutting. I used 3M Dual Lock and wood trims screwed into the battens between headlining panels for both support and appearance, thus needing only a few capped screws on edges of high curvature. I had to remove the adhesive on the backs of the pads, score them and use epoxy instead.

(My new headlining was not foam-backed, so it was perhaps easier to remove small sections of the 'return' to accommodate the pads without compromising its attachment - and I was also able to add extra security to the returns by stapling along them craftworkers' 'lollipop' sticks of ca. 2x20 cm, cut as necessary.)

I note that aleading yacht builders use 3m Dual Loch velcro in some areas. Currently I'm experimenting with it to hold down solar panel. The glue does seem a lot better . It's the most expensive have used but hoping it will pay off

 

[Hydrozoan]

I note that aleading yacht builders use 3m Dual Loch velcro in some areas. Currently I'm experimenting with it to hold down solar panel. The glue does seem a lot better . It's the most expensive have used but hoping it will pay off

I had (at least in some locations) to remove the original adhesive and score/epoxy the pads. One thing I would say is that the pad-to-pad grip of the Dual Lock is very strong, so make sure you can get a good grip with fingers under the panel for when you want to remove it!