Fairline Fury MK1 restoration/refurb

Hi Wayne, perhaps some inspiration for you with images of Snowgoose's interior. I bought her in 2014 with a Bradley 2750 trailer from a gentleman in Beverley who had done a complete rebuild, both of securedownload8.jpgthe boat, the twin AQ130 engines and VP 270 gear. Will attach another picture showing the canopy from the rear.
med varmaste hälsningar, Chris
 
Hi Wayne, perhaps some inspiration for you with images of Snowgoose's interior. I bought her in 2014 with a Bradley 2750 trailer from a gentleman in Beverley who had done a complete rebuild, both of View attachment 134609the boat, the twin AQ130 engines and VP 270 gear. Will attach another picture showing the canopy from the rear.
med varmaste hälsningar, Chris
 

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We have similar taste, that was the colour i was going to go for as i love wood on boats but SWMBO changed my mind to go grey/white. What do you think of the engines, bit thirsty i believe, not that i am bothered about that or i wouldnt of bought it. The heads looks good for space saving with the loo of choice. We have basic porta loos but i have been thinking about a swivel type to go as close into the corner as possible. Thats the only down side to these boats, the Heads size, but then we dont spend a whole lot of time in there.

Thanks for the pics kida :)
 
Lovely boat Chris and once again amazing wort Wayne. Your skills and dedication are incredible.

The vide of that engine sounded amazing just like an engine should sound.

keep up the good work
 
Things are rocking here hey. been out again and got things done/started :)

As its not costly a si have the materials i got on with the transom. When i removed the transom plate there was a good few SS screws snapped off, so only way to fix that was to grind them back and epoxy fill them, aswell as the rest of the holes.

The transom is all good, so as few suggested an owner must of had the plate fitted to save more transom damage in the future.

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So tapered out the hole and ground out the studs left behind.

Wet out the holes then used the usual Epoxy and 407 ( i think i forget now which filler )
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Easy job really and chilling out job.

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On the transom top gunnel where the nav light was i will be having access from the bathing deck i will be making so them holes can be filled aswell.

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sorry as usual i loose a picture of it finished but you get the idea from the other, fill and fair in.

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And more second time around. I am thinking an owner fitted the plate as couldnt be bothered to fettle the scratches so cover them up.

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Ill finish them off tomorrow and fair back and see if more needs doing.

This thing is coming out now. I cant see the point in it really unless you have a lot of water down blow and need to drain the bilge before towing. , never had one before on any boat but a dinghy.

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That will take some filling, thick transom this.

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Why do the designers make things so hard to get at. This rail has fairly good access for all stanchion bolts but for one base where there just isnt any without removing the rear deck.

Before i remove it though i need to alter the wooden top as the corners stick out to far and will rub the canopy as you mite see here

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So in red i can make a new section and let if follow the boat profile, or in blue make a new stanchion for the back rail to support the end and leave the corner rail open. Ill decide over time.

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And to finish the day as tired i was sick of seeing the big gash in the side so as i had the sander out slapped on a 120g disc and went at it.

And after a few minutes its fine, just a bit of primer and then paint, it feathered in right good. So rest of the hull just needs a sand to prep for new paint. And the below water line is good aswell, give it a scrub and AF it.

It did go down to the GRP so a bit of high build primer will be reat.

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no to bad a day really :)
 
And today efforts in Faffers boat yard :)

Decision is made i will be making a new rear rail from 22mm SS, going to get one of these benders, they are good for the money and after researching them thye do a good job

VEVOR Steel Pipe Tube Bender Manual Bending Machine 10/12/14/16/19/22/25mm 7Dies 278716893005 | eBay

I need to get that made asap really before the canopy is sized up as the canopy will be touching it as before.

Now today i finished another window for fitting next week and then cracked on removing the rear deck so i can get to the tank and last rail stanchion nuts.

Getting this deck out was a reat faff about. not looking forward to putting it back in, needs to go back in soon aswell for when they size up the canopy. just be easier i think for them, and safer.

I decided to cut the corners out as they did last time

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I had to drag the boat forward a few meters so i have more room at the back so as before winch post and block n tackle

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Now for the tank. on doing this i see the timber crossmember is a little rotten in the middle so thats going to replaced, rest is good. the bearers unscrewed dead easy, infact no real problem today which made a change.

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With out a gantry i would not be managing this on my own nowadays. It isnt as heavy as i thought aswell.

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I have not measured the tank yet but it is supposed to be 60 gallon. looks about it. Just glad it is stainless steel though so no need to repalce that, just a clean up.

Left it at this stage for today. Next is to look at the bulkhead in readyness to make a new one. Instead of plywood i am thinking on a Carbon Fibre one with a weave but not yet chosen one, but i like the large weave type. This will be a foam sandwich with standard grp internal and just a carbon out skin over csm.

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do like this

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if not just usual plywood.

well another not bad day :)
 
HI Wayne, think the steel fuel tank on twin screw Mk1 Furys were 70 gallons (318 litres) :-):-) On the back rail, the later models had steel ones that are curved at the corners which reduced the canopy rub risk on the inside. One of my earlier picture taken to the rear with her planing shows the rail quite well, but you need to zoom in, Snowgoose's canopy has addition rub protection patches at those locations to counter this risk too. :-) :-)
My wife pointed out on Snowgoose she'd like me to cut away the rather high central bar in the centre of the pulpit to ease physical access to and fron the bow when mooring nose on - not sure if I'll do this as the stainless steel pulpit needs some strength to it , we'll see :-):-) mvh, Chris
 
BTW if it helps I can, next time I'm at Snowgoose (@ 21st May) take some measurements/photos of the SS back rail and it's attachment locations prior to you bending metal? Mvh, Chris
 
As always, Wayne, I stand in awe of the quality and speed of your work over a variety of trades needed.


Just a quick thought on the stainless tank. Stainless is a devil and can work harden through vibration and, over large areas, the 'panting' of panels. Also if the tank has been unused for a while, perhaps it might be harbouring diesel bug (bacteria and fungi) , which can cause corrosion in the tank and fuel lines/filler pipe/breather etc. Can you rig up a pressure test to make sure that there are no micro-cracks developing ? Use a weak detergent like fairy liquid to see if any bubbles appear on the tank surface and underside. Well worth it, prevention etc...


When you get to deal with the fresh water tank and pipes, I will send you a commercial product I use to clear and sterilise agricultural sprayers and tanks. Let me know when you need it as fresh is best.
 
HI Wayne, think the steel fuel tank on twin screw Mk1 Furys were 70 gallons (318 litres) :):) On the back rail, the later models had steel ones that are curved at the corners which reduced the canopy rub risk on the inside. One of my earlier picture taken to the rear with her planing shows the rail quite well, but you need to zoom in, Snowgoose's canopy has addition rub protection patches at those locations to counter this risk too. :) :)
My wife pointed out on Snowgoose she'd like me to cut away the rather high central bar in the centre of the pulpit to ease physical access to and from the bow when mooring nose on - not sure if I'll do this as the stainless steel pulpit needs some strength to it , we'll see :):) mvh, Chris

Hi Chris.
Yes they were originally 70g fuel tanks but the pervious owner said it had a 60g fitted. looking at it again it must atleast be 60g as the tank takes up all the room so therefore must be 70g tank.
As for the rear rails, think i will let the canopy be fitted then make a rail to suit so it doesnt rub on it. Still get a rubbing patch added at the corners just incase. Ill look at that in a bit as how the rail will be and design one. Although not much to design as its just a length of tube/pipe bent in the correct place lol.

An idea maybe for your Bow rail, have the cross bar hinged then locked in with a sprung ball pin. That will keep the stability in the two rails and easy to open.

As always, Wayne, I stand in awe of the quality and speed of your work over a variety of trades needed.


Just a quick thought on the stainless tank. Stainless is a devil and can work harden through vibration and, over large areas, the 'panting' of panels. Also if the tank has been unused for a while, perhaps it might be harbouring diesel bug (bacteria and fungi) , which can cause corrosion in the tank and fuel lines/filler pipe/breather etc. Can you rig up a pressure test to make sure that there are no micro-cracks developing ? Use a weak detergent like fairy liquid to see if any bubbles appear on the tank surface and underside. Well worth it, prevention etc...


When you get to deal with the fresh water tank and pipes, I will send you a commercial product I use to clear and sterilise agricultural sprayers and tanks. Let me know when you need it as fresh is best.

How do kida. good to hear from you again. Hope all is well.

I have an Endoscope on my next shopping list of gadgets, that is for tracing wiring in the cabin as i mite need to drill some hole in the inner GRP lining to get to rail fittings. So the Endoscope could come in for looking inside the tank. And i yes i will doing a pressure test, i plan on capping off the filler and breather and test it as you mention. Not sure yet on what pressure to set the compressor yet though, any idea ?

I did a similar test once on my last boat if you remember when i had a leak in the GRP shell and couldnt find where it was getting in. Roof was dripping water in and found the very small hole about three foot away when it bubbled up.

On the FW tank. i am going to keep it. I was going to get rid and get a bigger tank but it is 250l so big enough for washing etc for a couple days. drinking water will be bottled. I noticed a crack down one corer though. I didnt get to look at it properly as i was on with other job but will look into that at a later date and repair it. Ill let you know on the cleaner then , thank you and as always good very kind of you.
 
Hi Chris.
Yes they were originally 70g fuel tanks but the pervious owner said it had a 60g fitted. looking at it again it must atleast be 60g as the tank takes up all the room so therefore must be 70g tank.
As for the rear rails, think i will let the canopy be fitted then make a rail to suit so it doesnt rub on it. Still get a rubbing patch added at the corners just incase. Ill look at that in a bit as how the rail will be and design one. Although not much to design as its just a length of tube/pipe bent in the correct place lol.

An idea maybe for your Bow rail, have the cross bar hinged then locked in with a sprung ball pin. That will keep the stability in the two rails and easy to open.



How do kida. good to hear from you again. Hope all is well.

I have an Endoscope on my next shopping list of gadgets, that is for tracing wiring in the cabin as i mite need to drill some hole in the inner GRP lining to get to rail fittings. So the Endoscope could come in for looking inside the tank. And i yes i will doing a pressure test, i plan on capping off the filler and breather and test it as you mention. Not sure yet on what pressure to set the compressor yet though, any idea ?

I did a similar test once on my last boat if you remember when i had a leak in the GRP shell and couldnt find where it was getting in. Roof was dripping water in and found the very small hole about three foot away when it bubbled up.

On the FW tank. i am going to keep it. I was going to get rid and get a bigger tank but it is 250l so big enough for washing etc for a couple days. drinking water will be bottled. I noticed a crack down one corer though. I didnt get to look at it properly as i was on with other job but will look into that at a later date and repair it. Ill let you know on the cleaner then , thank you and as always good very kind of you.
Good idea on hinging the cross bar / adding sprung ball pin locking mechanism, thanks :-) Chris
 
I went to work today felt sick, felt as rough as death warmed up infact, so went back to bed then got up at dinner and played out :) ( honestly i was not well )


So i though an easy job i pressure tested the fuel tank,

Found a of cut of 50mm bar to bung the end of the filler opening with the help of some radiator hose.

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Then got my cheap tyre inflator, cut the tyre vavle adaptor off and connected that to the fuel off take. Bunged up the breather with a bit of water pipe and bar

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And hey presto, lets go blow myself up as i cant measure as low as 5psi as it starts at that. so took a guess lol. Just put enough in so a little less that 5psi which will be enough for this.

1/4 filled with water so easier to see low down leaks

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All fitted seem ok so now ill leave it for a few days and see if the tank gets an softer if you know what i mean, not in tension and any wet spots anywhere.

BTW, its not stainless steel, its Aluminum tank. wondered why it was so light ha ha
 
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