Fairline Fury MK1 restoration/refurb

[waynes world]

I dont know how folk do it, or dont do it.

I sold a GRP boat canopy to a chap, had it sent by courier, Tuffnells. The canopy is 170cm x 115 cm x 20 xm. so not small.

They have lost it , god knows how.

I bought a part rebuilt block for the next engine from Coastal Rides, last week. Buzzing as it WOULD of saved me rebuilding one i have.

I say `would` as they sent me the wrong engine. Ok some folk can make mistakes. I called them straightaway to tell them, and then had to wait two days for them to call me to say they cant find the engine block i bought.
WTF, they dont seem very professional at all.

So now i have took a gamble on a chap that has got one that was a good runner and he bought it for a few bits. Full engine for £180. so no big loss there if its as bad as the ones i have. That should be here next week.

Well today i got motivated, once i get going i am good and love it. Not like used to be when i was on it every waking spare hour, still getting there now.

Today i rebuilt another pair of carbs and started to clean and check a manifold. And another problem as the ultrasoinc cleaner is playing up and the seller still hasnt been to collect it to repair it. The month that goes by with no cock ups will be amazing.

just waiting for paint ti arrive.

Got myself a moisture ( love that word Moist dont know why ) meter to see how damp the timber is and its not to bad.

This is the bottom of the worst area. above 20% which is to much. but 6inch up and better

I have been all around the bulkheads etc except for the main as thats coming out soon once the canopy is fitted. Cut all the areas out that have readings above 10%. These will be sealed with epoxy then new ply fitted inplace.

The rest is in good order so i decided nt to rip it all out. Why make more work than needed.

That bottom timber will dry out quicker now.

small patch needed

The heads is a bit rough so ripped it all out. well it was needed, no chance on keeping that in

The lower damp left area is 6mm ply, and the rest is 6mm veneered 12mm ply.

Looks better already

Reckon ill remove and patch up these non used stopcocks.

Oh yes, another disaster a week or so ago.

I like to research all new gear i buy. Now i want a Tubela pipe bender but costly at £1200 with a couple of dies so for now i got a cheapo chinses tat. All looked good on YT videos and reviews. Yes it did a great jb for the first maybe dozen bends.

Great hey, for £100 its good.

So as the canopy is being made ( at long last after a 10 month wait ) in a few weeks i needed to make the new rails for the stern. The original wooden ones have sharp edges and make hard waring on the canopy.

so i knocked these up

I managed to bend them to keep the original mount points to save drill more holes

Sorry to say though there scrappers . The bender as said lasted maybe a dozen bends. this was while i was making the bender better as the pipe clamp needed to be smoothed out a lot to prevent it leaves dents in the tube. So these rials have a bad crease around the corners due to the die and pivot waring out.

Well P`d off i was. I hope to be getting another sent to me soon. A UK seller but from shanghai, they tried to fob me off with a 45 day wait for delivery when i got this on three days....we will see.

I have a good bit more in tomorrow so more to come

 

[vas]

typical Coastal Rides I'm afraid Captain F...
sending you what you actually order must be a rare occurrence with CR. At least they are cheap
good luck!

 

[waynes world]

typical Coastal Rides I'm afraid Captain F...
sending you what you actually order must be a rare occurrence with CR. At least they are cheap
good luck!

Well its cheap if i turns up ha ha. and £600 for a block isnt that cheap when they didnt rebuild it but was told so. Bunch of Pirates i am afraid.

 

[waynes world]

Bit of a naff update but sat chilling with nowt to do at the minute and why not.

lets see, i have been faffing with the diesel heater and where to stick it. I was going to fit it in the engine bay at first, to get the inlets and outlets where i want them was a pain due to the main fuel tank and where to fit the fuel tank for it.
So in the end, and as it is wasted space i have fitted the heater unit under a locker in the main cabin.

Just a matter to cut out an access hatch in the base. All that area under that seat base was wasted. but for the far right has an small opening for the depth and speed transducers.

Still deciding on where to route the combustion lines, either behind the far panel you see with the single hole or trough what will be the new battery locker with the inlet for the heater ducting. .

I was lucky enough to find a bit of stainless steel in the shed to make a mount for the heater to mount to the underside of the seat locker.

Had to strip the unit down though as it is a combined heater unit that i had used for the shed.

You will see it is a 4 outlet jobby, i want a single out let at the minute so will be getting a new single outlet fitting.

.


This where it will be fitting, good room for the pipe work, combustion outlet will be wrapped so temps will be take care of, as always do as i go. So i will sort that when i get to it.

Oh yes, as common sense goes my didnt kick in at first, like to make life hard i see now ha ha

I removed the table pedestal to gain easier access to te heater locker, about time, needed to see how wet the foam is under the GRP soul.

There was water in there where the post was in from the pedestal so i dried it out with a bit of sponge and i was expecting it to fill back up soon after. If water gets in it and spreads a lot then it can get there. After 7 days though no water has flowed back in. Which i can say i am happy about as i am not into removing all the soul to rip out all the foam etc etc etc.

just a matter to mark out the holes etc to fit the eater inplace and there we go.

Ah well, i drilled one hole out of line. be reat

and there we go, to bend it as it is 3mm and not got a press brake yet lol, just do a few runs with a plasma cutting disc and bend it, then another run a few mm at a time untill it gets the angle needed.

in temp situ

Tucked up high and as safe to get the combustion pipes room.

Exciting times

I have been messed about BIG time by a local so called respected canopy maker. After 11 months and being let down many times i decided to jack in waiting for him to do it. he was well priced but good, well you know.
It has cost me a bloody fortune towards the timewaster but i feel better with the new maker and saving money, paying less isnt going to get it done,
So Canvasman near Leeds. sounds very professional and the boat is all booked in ( drop off 1st September, THIS year ) , i am taking it to them to be done at is saves me £700, and they are only an hour away.

Now main job now is to sort the trailer out. When i towed the bat back when i got it a pillock pulled out in front of me and i heard a large thump/bang and then the car shunted forward. Good job i am quick as applied more break and the Shoggy stopped it with ease, thank god.

Goes to show, maintain the trailers people as this happend.

I stripped the hitch after hours of spannering/banging/cutting. To find a all bolts had seized, handbrake handle snapped. And worse still te damper had snapped, so that is what made the bang wen i braked hard.

So tonight i have ordered new damper, boot, handbrake energy store as that is seized also, and got a secondhand handbrake at a bargain £25 instead of £110. somethings work out

The jockey wheel was goosed, but i fixed that as the first thread on the worm gear was dodgy so real tight, just stripped it and got the Dremmel to clean the thread back and greased up and all good now. Another saving, which is much needed now after the canopy situation.

I have bits to do this weekend so ill be back i hope soon. Water tank to finish off, see about the new bulkhead asap. I would like to get that done before it goes away for a couple of months, but alteast when it comes home i can work under cover on the bulkhead and engine bay in time for winter. .

 

[Restoration man]

I recon the foam under the floor is still water logged , I would drill some holes and inject isopropyl alcohol into it , it’s said to dispense water

 

[waynes world]

I recon the foam under the floor is still water logged , I would drill some holes and inject isopropyl alcohol into it , it’s said to dispense water

if it is then i would expect some to drain back to the hole in over a week. and cant be much if there if its waterlogged, will look into it though

 

[Freebee]

I would not inject any iso propyl alcohol anywhere near a boat it has a very low flashpoint and a heavy vapour that will just lay in the bottom waiting for a spark to happen

 

[waynes world]

I would not inject any iso propyl alcohol anywhere near a boat it has a very low flashpoint and a heavy vapour that will just lay in the bottom waiting for a spark to happen

just reading up on it, yep sounds very dodgy to use for what i will gain. I knew it would be wet/waterlogged but no issue, no weight gain if much at all.

 

[limecc]

just reading up on it, yep sounds very dodgy to use for what i will gain. I knew it would be wet/waterlogged but no issue, no weight gain if much at all.

I had a wet transom and dried it out by exposing the core using a 25mm hole saw in a couple of places. I was going to add a vacuum pump to pull moisture out but never got around to that and over winter it dropped from off the scale to under 20%. That was in April, I'll check it again and hopefully should be able to re-seal it. I think a bit of gentle heat from a halogen lamp would assist the vacuum pump and would dry any core really quickly.

 

[Restoration man]

As it’s been pointed out might be a bit dodgy to use isopropyl alcohol ,I think i read about it in “the fiberglass repair manual “ but they were discussing using it in balsa core deck so prob not such big volume as what you will have under your floor ,
I still wouldn’t want any wet foam on the side of my hull , might be an idea as limecc said and drill some core holes you will see if it’s wet , I’ve watched mikes video on YouTube about his fairline and his foam was so wet it caused osmosis blisters on the inside of the hull, so it would be good to try and get it as dry as possible , I know this is very tough job without destroying the boat , maybe cut some hand sized holes in floor and try and dig as much wet foam out as you can and hopefully anything left will dry if it’s own accord and re foam when dry

 

[waynes world]

Had a bit of a go today, made a change in the rain, been to warm as of late.

I have all parts ordered for the hitch, and also a set of longer studs, as you can see here some are a wee bit short.

When i got the boat/trailer seller said the brakes had been rebuilt, which happy to say they do look like it.

Front axle studs are long on both side, rear axle one side just long enough, the other side way to short. ,

front axle front wheel

Rear axle rear wheel, about 10mm short so ordered a 50mm set.

left front, right rear

Same drums/hubs on front and rear axle aswell. studs look to never of been messed with either. maybe replaced hubs in the past, who knows.

Well all looks good and moving with T yanking on the cable anyway lol.

So glad all is good, dont come cheap these parts. and tyres also are dam good.

Just gave the drums and shoes a bit of a light rub down and clean so all good to go once parts fitted and set up properly .


thats about it for today but for also making a new draw bar damper extension, as to tight to pay £30 for a bar with two holes in it lol

 

[waynes world]

As it’s been pointed out might be a bit dodgy to use isopropyl alcohol ,I think i read about it in “the fiberglass repair manual “ but they were discussing using it in balsa core deck so prob not such big volume as what you will have under your floor ,
I still wouldn’t want any wet foam on the side of my hull , might be an idea as limecc said and drill some core holes you will see if it’s wet , I’ve watched mikes video on YouTube about his fairline and his foam was so wet it caused osmosis blisters on the inside of the hull, so it would be good to try and get it as dry as possible , I know this is very tough job without destroying the boat , maybe cut some hand sized holes in floor and try and dig as much wet foam out as you can and hopefully anything left will dry if it’s own accord and re foam when dry

yes, no harm cutting a few hole sin the soul, i will be crackling on with finishing the water tank tomorrow so i cut a few while in there. I have been thinking if i cut enough and find a gadget to dig out as much as i can i can refill the void with foam. we will see.

 

[waynes world]

Good new to me anyway, i drilled two holes in the sole of the cabin to investigate how bad the foam is under it.

I know these boats are bad for soggy soles but when i checked over this boat when i was checking over it i jumped poked prodded all over it an dit felt good. i would not of bought it otherwise as its a big job to strip a boat out and redo the sole.

Just the bottom 10mm or so is damp, not wet/soggy


stearn where it would be more wet tahn bow

.

dam cant find the dug out picture but you get what i mean.

So while there faffing about i fitted the new lid to the water tank. and scrapped the front cabin walls from the old foam lined foam backing that was left. so front cabin is sort of done ready for the cosmetics.

I wanted to use new screw holes for the tank lid so marked out for new ones and used butyl tape to seal it, ill fill it in a day or so while it settles in and test it again. I forgot about the level indicator i want to fit but ill do that another time now. It be reat as it will just be a little dust getting in the tank from cutting the hole.

And the osmosis, be reat

Hopefully all sealed

Very little to scrape back, took about 15 mins We will be relining with four way stretch carpet. Just to the bottom of the windows though i think.

Found a stow away aswel tucked up in the bow lol

As i feel the front cabin is in a way sorted and all ready for cosmetics i want to sort the fuse box in the heads. I was going to move it

from here

to here around where the coat hooks are.

Near all the cables will reach aswell and there isnt much in the fuse box.

It is either move it or keep it these but fit better fuse boxs and buzz bars fitted. The porta loo mite just fit below it, i will try it out later and see.

I was going to remove the sea loo inlet/outlet, ill keep them just incase for the future, there not in the way.

sorry about the dam side on pics, not a clue whats happening there.

All in its been a good day, not much done but feel got somewhere.

 

[Restoration man]

That’s great news Wayne I did see it and comment on FB ,it’s always a good day when something that could be bad turns out fine , im hoping that my Boat has stopped giving me little surprises of the bad kind ???, I don’t think It’s possible for anything else to crop up , but you never know with boats

 

[waynes world]

That’s great news Wayne I did see it and comment on FB ,it’s always a good day when something that could be bad turns out fine , im hoping that my Boat has stopped giving me little surprises of the bad kind ???, I don’t think It’s possible for anything else to crop up , but you never know with boats

It's why love boats, the little surprises.....OK maybe not lol

That is one reason I would rather start from scratch, same as my last boat. Then atleast there is no surprises. This project was meant to be easier. Which it is than the last. Although if the sole had to cup out it would be a same as last.

We lets both cross fingers for no bad things popping up again.

 

[Bigplumbs]

Good work Wayne you are moving forward well

 

[waynes world]

Good work Wayne you are moving forward well

It coming on yes, bit by bit now. Could be quicker though. I will be happier with progress once the main bulkhead is done. I wanted to have it done before it went to get the canopy made but i dont have the time now. Still get bits done though so once the bulkhead is done it close to interior upgrade/decor.



@sarabande
You mentioned an offer of some cleaner for the eater system, as always i appreciate offers and help but on this all new pipe work will be used. I removed all the old water pipes and will be getting new, for sake of £50 , it will be piping in the calorifier aswell.

 

[Restoration man]

I was in Gloucester docks on Sunday saw this,
Looked in nice condition

 

[harvey38]

Good new to me anyway, i drilled two holes in the sole of the cabin to investigate how bad the foam is under it.

I know these boats are bad for soggy soles but when i checked over this boat when i was checking over it i jumped poked prodded all over it an dit felt good. i would not of bought it otherwise as its a big job to strip a boat out and redo the sole.

Just the bottom 10mm or so is damp, not wet/soggy


stearn where it would be more wet tahn bow

.

dam cant find the dug out picture but you get what i mean.

So while there faffing about i fitted the new lid to the water tank. and scrapped the front cabin walls from the old foam lined foam backing that was left. so front cabin is sort of done ready for the cosmetics.

I wanted to use new screw holes for the tank lid so marked out for new ones and used butyl tape to seal it, ill fill it in a day or so while it settles in and test it again. I forgot about the level indicator i want to fit but ill do that another time now. It be reat as it will just be a little dust getting in the tank from cutting the hole.

And the osmosis, be reat

Hopefully all sealed

Very little to scrape back, took about 15 mins We will be relining with four way stretch carpet. Just to the bottom of the windows though i think.

Found a stow away aswel tucked up in the bow lol

As i feel the front cabin is in a way sorted and all ready for cosmetics i want to sort the fuse box in the heads. I was going to move it

from here

to here around where the coat hooks are.

Near all the cables will reach aswell and there isnt much in the fuse box.

It is either move it or keep it these but fit better fuse boxs and buzz bars fitted. The porta loo mite just fit below it, i will try it out later and see.

I was going to remove the sea loo inlet/outlet, ill keep them just incase for the future, there not in the way.

sorry about the dam side on pics, not a clue whats happening there.

All in its been a good day, not much done but feel got somewhere.

That four way stretch carpet is a joy to use, quick, easy to use and the results can be very impressive

 

[waynes world]

I was in Gloucester docks on Sunday saw this,
Looked in nice condition
View attachment 140022

Looks very much like how my ew canopy will be. But rear main section will come separate from.front top.

That four way stretch carpet is a joy to use, quick, easy to use and the results can be very impressive

Yes good stuff isn't it. Eaay aslong as use good sharp cutting gear. More fun is being in the cabin when using the HT adhesive lol.
I don't think I will be using much now, I have a bit of grey left from last boat build and the white is staying. Maybe a bit in the front cabin. I have grey but fancy a different colour in there.