Failed to remove the shaft coupling

Now you know about the bearing issue better to sort it. If you leave it it may be wearing the gearbox clutches. Have a look at the gearbox oil. If is gone dark the clutches have been slipping.
 
Okay. I just need your opinions that support me to convince myself to continue! Just rang the marina to extend the hardstanding one more week. And now going prepare to use fire to destroy the old bearing.
 
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In the meantime, I am now buying materials to make the DIY bearing puller as now I have extra time after extension. Hopefully, those bearings removal without too much trouble.

I measured my bearing as 1-3/4 inches in diameter shaft, 2-3/8 outside diameter, 6.5 inches long. But on the market only have 7 inches long size. So looks like need to do a bit of cutting after purchase.
 
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Have you got the weight of the front end of the shaft supported?

If there's any weight on either end of the shaft it will be tight in the cutlass bearing. Thry really grab hold.

For a thick shaft like yours you really need two folk to draw it out, one to take the weight, one to twist and pull.

You know you cant just grap it and twist expecting it to slide out, right?
 
Tried already yesterday. The next boat technician came to help me pull it together, and he also brings his spray grease, but make no difference. It still can just move a couple of cms each pull with the pipe wrench scratching the shaft at the middle very hard. I can confirm this bearing has a problem no doubt.
I am in Shepperton, Surrey, UK.
 
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yes, but the point BB makes is that one has to be inside the e/r and the other outside.
Can you state the split lengths of the shaft?
gb to hull bearing/stern tube
hull/stern tube to p-bracket
is it same resistance if you turn it clockwise and anticlockwise?
 
Oh. I think inside the e/r not going to help as the shaft detached everything from e/r already and the e/r is very limited access. The shaft just wobbles inside the stern tube now.
Never measure the shaft long but it looks like around 2.5 to 3 meters long.
The hull stern tube to the p-bracket looks around 1.7 to 2 meters.
It is the same resistance clockwise and anticlockwise.
 
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In the meantime, I am now buying materials to make the DIY bearing puller as now I have extra time after extension. Hopefully, those bearings removal without too much trouble.

I measured my bearing as 1-3/4 inches in diameter shaft, 2-3/8 outside diameter, 6.5 inches long. But on the market only have 7 inches long size. So looks like need to do a bit of cutting after purchase.
Why cut it? An extra 0.25” at each end isn’t going to cause any problems.

I hope you actually get to use your boat this year.
 
...and just to confirm, shaft is clean from barnacles, old antifoul paint and other layers of whatever? nice smooth and clean (OK, not where you've buggered it I mean!)
does definitely sound like you HAVE TO remove it and find out what's wrong with this cutlass bearing!
 
Oh. I think inside the e/r not going to help as the shaft detached everything from e/r already
the point he makes is that the weight of the inside end of the shaft increases the grab in the cutless: at least hang it on a bit of string. Think of trying to lift the shaft to horizontal only holding one end.
You could use the prop nut and spacers to haul the shaft out a short distance at a time. Laborious though.
 
I had to haul a bearing out with great difficulty as the outer surface had lathe machining marks on it and marine growth had got between it and the carrier. New bearing will quite likely need machining, though hopefully not, but I was told install using copperslip, the animals don't like it.
 
@vas The shaft is crystal clear.

@longjohnsilver Got it. Thanks.

@fisherman Got it, definitely not something to do with the weight I can confirm.

I have ordered some steel plates, tubes, threaded robs and nuts, definitely need to make a DIY puller. I think I will make it push the bearing forward from the propeller side to the stern tube direction. Then cut the old bearing by grinder after it came out from the P bracelet. Then push a new bearing in the same direction by using the DIY puller. That way, I don't have to split the DIY puller tube into half like all other DIY pullers I saw on YouTube did. Because they all push from the stern tube to the propeller direction. I will do the opposite.

Or, I may also split one set of puller tube so I can also push the bearing backward from stern tube to propeller direction like all YouTube video shows if needed. I have ordered 80cm tube, good enough to make 4 set.
 
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I would arrange things to push the bearing out towards the prop end. Get a suitable sized tube and split it in two, then reassemble on the shaft with a few jubillee clips whilst it gets started. Also if you push the other way and the bearing is jammed on the shaft you will run out of room.
 
Ok. Got all the tools ordered as well. I am going to use a jigsaw to split the tube as the saw blade is only around 1mm thick while the grinder disc thickness is 2.5mm. So finger crossing to do the jobs probably next Tuesday or Wednesday when all materials are in place.

I starting feeling good about solving all these problems. I can't imagine I can do all of those without your guy's support! Thanks a lot to all of you.
 
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Ok. Got all the tools ordered as well. I am going to use a jigsaw to split the tube as the saw blade is only around 1mm thick while the grinder disc thickness is 2.5mm. So finger crossing to do the jobs probably next Tuesday or Wednesday when all materials are in place.

I starting feeling good about solving all these problems. I can't imagine I can do all of those without your guy's support! Thanks a lot to all of you.
You can get very fine (and efficient) grinder discs e.g.

Norton Stainless Steel Metal Cutting Disc 4½
 
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