AndieMac
Well-known member
Often buried under layers of paint over the life of the boat, if the cutless hasn’t been changed previously
Failed to remove the shaft coupling
- Thread starter Lucas Gan
- Start date
gordmac
Well-known member
Having done cutlass bearings on my last boat I can confirm the weight of the shaft can make it rather more difficult to pull the shaft out, you need to keep it aligned and support the weight as best you can. The job is a pain, good luck with it!
Lucas Gan
Active member
I can confirm the difficulty for mine is not something to do with the weight. It's just the bearing problem.
I have started making the DIY bearing puller today, should finish tomorrow.
I have started making the DIY bearing puller today, should finish tomorrow.
Lucas Gan
Active member
I spent a whole day couldn't make the 64mm big hole on the 10mm thick steel plate. The hole saw in the picture was worn after cutting about 1/3 depth of the job. Then I went to buy another Bosch hole saw. Then I spent another 3 hours still couldn't drill through it as the drill can only spin very slow to prevent the sharpness from worn out again. Also, the handheld drill itself will be overhead after drilling for around 30 seconds, then I have to run the drill with no load to let it cool down for around 2 minutes. Nightmare!
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kashurst
Well-known member
try a local machine shop - have a google in your local area and go and have a chat. Hopefully they will be sympathetic and interested. With a milling machine etc they will be able to make what you need very quickly and for not too much money. Worth a try.
Lucas Gan
Active member
I think I need to keep doing it tomorrow as I did 70% of the thickness already. And I have done another piece of steel plate with a 48mm hole on it.
A tube already split into two half.
So, the job will be done once this 64mm hole is done.
A tube already split into two half.
So, the job will be done once this 64mm hole is done.
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cherod
Well-known member
nightmare mate ,, nightmare
kashurst
Well-known member
Well done, you are hopefully nearly there. Best of british luck with the bearing extraction - you deserve it!
On the bright side sticking it all back together will a) be a pleasure and b) relatively quick! And you will know it was done properly.
On the bright side sticking it all back together will a) be a pleasure and b) relatively quick! And you will know it was done properly.
penfold
Well-known member
Chain drilling the hole would be far easier on your battery drill than doing it with a hole saw.
Lucas Gan
Active member
I have bought a 700w corded drill today as my battery drill can only drill one 6.5mm small hole by one charge. The problem is I only have one battery, and it takes a few hours to recharge. That is why I need a new corded drill. But didn't know the drill will overhead by driving this big hole saw in just half a minute! I think it is because of the leak of the air blowing when I have to drill it at a very low speed to save the hole saw.
Also, I need the hole size more accurate as the p bracket out diameter is just a few mm more than the bearing only. So that's why I have to keep using the hole saw.
Also, I need the hole size more accurate as the p bracket out diameter is just a few mm more than the bearing only. So that's why I have to keep using the hole saw.
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Bran
Active member
You are getting there, I recommend using a cutting lubricant, try WD40 specialist cutting liquid, keep the cutting area covered in the fluid, this will reduce the wear on the holesaw. Also recommend a good quality holesaw, Bosch or Milwaukee are ok and available from screwfix etc.
vas
Well-known member
a bench drill would also help, but I'd go with penfold suggestion of chain drilling with something like a 4mm cobalt drill, then go to 6 and eventually use the massive holesaw on the already perforated plate...
drill overheats as it's most likely a cheap drill, get a good quality low rpm big metal bodied drill (tbh doubt you would find one easily or for less than 400quid) and job would be much easier - not worth it!
where you stand it might have been an idea to turn the plate around and do the last third of the depth on nice clean metal so that your handhelding the drill wont be affected by the inevitable wobbling of the drill and the extra friction from the sides of the already cut metal.
so turn the thing around, you have the pilot hole already, lots of cutting liquid (worth the tenner!) and v.slow speed with decent pressure.
getting there!
drill overheats as it's most likely a cheap drill, get a good quality low rpm big metal bodied drill (tbh doubt you would find one easily or for less than 400quid) and job would be much easier - not worth it!
where you stand it might have been an idea to turn the plate around and do the last third of the depth on nice clean metal so that your handhelding the drill wont be affected by the inevitable wobbling of the drill and the extra friction from the sides of the already cut metal.
so turn the thing around, you have the pilot hole already, lots of cutting liquid (worth the tenner!) and v.slow speed with decent pressure.
getting there!
fisherman
Well-known member
Lucas, somewhere you have a split coupling that fits the shaft........the one you cut off?
edit: no, of course, the bearing has to come through it. Would have done for the inside pusing the bearing out though
edit: no, of course, the bearing has to come through it. Would have done for the inside pusing the bearing out though
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Lucas Gan
Active member
The split old coupling is very thick like 12mm. No use.
I have made a perfect size split tube that fit exactly the bearing size and can go through the p bracket.
I have made a perfect size split tube that fit exactly the bearing size and can go through the p bracket.
fisherman
Well-known member
Yes, I was thinking use the old split coupling to push the split tube. Wonder if an engineer nearby has a coupling, discarded maybe, that's the next size up to allow the cutless to come through while engaging the outside of the P bracket....in other words, a plate with a hole such as you are drilling, and I can see your Wickes cutter is knacked.
The last time I did this there was a steel tube, just bigger and just longer than the cutless. This slid over the shaft, onto the bearing holder (P bracket), and had a plate on the outside end, which could be your old coupling jubilee clipped together. The cutless comes out inside the steel tube. If the tube is long enough ie outside the shaft end, the plate you are drilling won't need a hole
Restoration man
Active member
I would be tempted to drill it from the other side to finish it off , prolonged drilling / cutting seems to harden the surface , so it might go a bit easier, I’ve goto Applaud your patience,
Lucas Gan
Active member
Puller made and put on. But found the two pieces of 10mm steel plate started to bend when tightening the nuts. The bearing has no movement yet. The good news is I have another two pieces of steel plate. The bad news is another nightmare drilling day tomorrow!!
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Croftie
Active member
Lot of paint on P bracket - see post #239
Why only 2 studs?
Why only 2 studs?
vas
Well-known member
+1, sorry if I repeat once more, there are small headless allen (?) screws from the main bronze (whatever) body of the p-bracket, vertical going in through all the way to the bush inside.
Have you found/removed any? I'd expect to have one or two in the side view pic (and another two on the other side) need to wirebrush (or whatever) the a/f out of that to expose them.
fisherman
Well-known member
Lot of strain on one leg of the inside plate which has narrrow sections, use four studs.
Definitely grub screws present.
Using nylocs is not helping you, use plain nuts.
Definitely grub screws present.
Using nylocs is not helping you, use plain nuts.