Failed to remove the shaft coupling

[Boater On Thames]

As mentioned above. I replace the small mechanical 8" puller legs with the 15 tons hydraulic puller. The result, the connection of the small leg broken, the shaft no movement at all.

The next step, I give up doing it myself, I will let the boatyard workshop try to see if they can remove it, if not, the only option would be to cut to split the coupling and replace it.

 

[Boater On Thames]

I have found a split type coupling. Maybe I just simply cut and remove the old flange and replace it to make it easier for the future. And save the money not let the boatyard try.

 

[oldgit]

If it was me would let the " yard" do the job.

 

[penberth3]

If it was me would let the " yard" do the job.

Yes, this sort of job could easily cause a serious injury.

 

[Boater On Thames]

I got a feeling this old coupling can't be removed just by pulling. Or at least it will be a trouble in the future again. So I decided to replace the new split type no matter the yard can remove it by pulling or cutting.

 

[Daverw]

I am stuck. I still can not remove the coupling after bought two hydraulic pullers 15 tons and 10 tons. Because the centre pole of the 15 tons hydraulic pullers can't even long enough to reach the shaft when it extends to the maximum length! The 10 tons one can barely just reach to the shaft while maximum length but more strength, not even making any movement. They are just not fit to pull something like this small and thin. Any idea what puller can fit this job? Many thanks.

View attachment 119232View attachment 119233

Are you using any spacer blocks to increase reach?

 

[burgundyben]

Did you get it hot yet?

 

[Boater On Thames]

@Daverw No. There is no room. The maximum distance between coupling to gearbox can't even fit the puller in. That's why I replace the legs with small legs and it broke see #21.

 

[Boater On Thames]

@burgundyben Yes, I used a gas torch.

 

[ctva]

@Daverw No. There is no room. The maximum distance between coupling to gearbox can't even fit the puller in. That's why I replace the legs with small legs and it broke see #21.

That’s why I ended up with my disc solution, no space to get a puller. Did you try with a plate and bolts?

 

[burgundyben]

I dont understand what is holding it on.

 

[Boater On Thames]

@ctva No. I don't have the material handy, and I feel the plate and bolts won't work as the coupling is extremely tight and long. And I think it has never been removed since 1992 builds in America. I now believe cut it is the only solution.

 

[Hurricane]

I have heard that some people cut a socket down so that it fits snugly over the shaft in the end of the coupling.
After removing the nut on the end of the shaft, they put the "cut down socket" into the coupling and bolt it back onto the gearbox flange.
This has the effect of pushing the shaft out.

 

[burgundyben]

I have heard that some people cut a socket down so that it fits snugly over the shaft in the end of the coupling.
After removing the nut on the end of the shaft, they put the "cut down socket" into the coupling and bolt it back onto the gearbox flange.
This has the effect of pushing the shaft out.

Yes. I've done that. It works.

 

[Boater On Thames]

@burgundyben Me too. I imagine the manufacturer heat the coupling to very hot and hammer it into the pararel shaft. Then it becomes extremely tight after those 29 years!

 

[Boater On Thames]

The shaft is parallel not taper, and the coupling is about 15cm in length. I think it won't likely pop out like a bullet. It will likely need all the way pull through 15cm under that tension.

Since I already broke the puller, so I don't dare to try to use the gearbox to pull it. That will be one more headache if the gearbox broke because of that.

 

[John100156]

I am sure you have thought of this, sometimes there are two grub screws locking the flange on the shaft, are you sure you have removed both of them if fitted?

I would have thought heat and a decent 15T puller would have been successful, but consult the boatyard or decent local marine engineers, they would have done this many times.

We have Tallers Cornet in Sant Carles, they have made up in the past tools and pullers for all sorts of jobs and can often sort this sort of thing out swiftly, always good to try yourself, just as I would, but when I had to replace two lip seals on my shafts about 18m ago, I called them in and they did an excellent job quickly using some heavy hydraulic pullers.

Don't let these jobs make you lose your joy maintaining your boat, just get them to do it, and concentrate on all the other jobs on the never ending list...!

 

[burgundyben]

The shaft is parallel not taper

how sure are you about that?

 

[GrahamHR]

@burgundyben Me too. I imagine the manufacturer heat the coupling to very hot and hammer it into the pararel shaft. Then it becomes extremely tight after those 29 years!

This thread makes me for once feel smug about having outdrive equipped boats since 2001 ! No seal failures, no water ingress, props slide off every year as the splines are properly cleaned and lubricated. I really hope you get it sorted without too much damage/ expense though .

 

[Boater On Thames]

@burgundyben As you can see the photo. And I measured it using a caliper, it's 45mm the same at the end.