Engine Room Fire Extinguishers

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I need to replace the halon extinguishers in a 435 Princess. There doesn't seem to be much information on the internet on various options other than dry powder is a bad idea (horrible mess and damages the engines - annoying if it goes off by accident!).

I have seen the Stat X solid aerosol recommended in one of the boat magazines and spoke to someone about it at the boat show. He indicated that a system for around 10 cu M would be around £1,800 incl fitting and vat (around £500 for the extinguisher, £500 for the alarm / contoller / sensors and £500 fitting). This would give a system which would be automatic when not on board, but would set off an alarm when at sea with a manual firing option (i.e. allowing you to shut down the engines and bilge fan when safe to do so and to stop the gas being sucked through the engines). The extinguisher is an aerosol type with a 10 year service life and there is a certain logic to setting it up in the way described. The Stat X website in the States appears to only show the extinguisher units themselves rather than the heat sensors / controllers / alarms - so these are presumably from another supplier but I can find no information on such things on the internet.

A cheaper (simpler, but probably more compromised) route would seem to be a 6KG Fireblitz FBA G6 Clean Agent Gas extinguisher which I could buy for around £400 and fit myself. The service life is around 5 years, but it would be temperature activated and would be ineffective if the engines are not shut down before it activates (which is quite likely in reality). In principle of operation it is similar to the two (banned) halon extinguishers currently mounted over the engines, but would in theory be more effective as it is a single extinguisher - so should deliver the full volume gas in one go (as opposed to one going off, being ineffective as insufficient gas to flood the engine bay and then the second going off when the fire reignites and suffering the same problem).

I'm surprised that there is so little information available on systems and options as this must be an area of high turnover (lots of boats and extinguishers with relatively short service lives). Any thoughts, recommendations or references to useful articles would be much appreciated as the Fireblitz option doesn't really sound the way to go (although presumably they sell alot of them).
 
any system with powder will corrosively affect electronics and some plastics.

Systems used in large-scale computer rooms are comprehensively covered in this doc:-

http://www.periphman.com/Fire-Suppression-Considerations.htm


My preference would be to use CO2, as it will prevent the engines working PDQ if you don't have an auto shut-off.

CO2 has some hazards if you in a closed room when the gas goes off, but it is otherwise the least damaging extinguishant at the early stages of a fire. If you have a fire that is well under way, then you need something to cool the material, as well as fight the flames and that's AFFF. These are not suitable for use on fires involving live electrical equipment but may be used on 12/24 volt electrics.
 
I would definately take a look at Sea-Fire, they are the leading replacement for older Halon systems and use the clean agent FM200 waterless system. It is available from hand held portable extinguishers to fully automatic plumbed systems.

http://www.sea-fire.com/

Good luck with the changeover.


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I fit a lot of seafire and they are usually good,

My favourite system is the firetrace as you install the tube all round the engine room and cable ducts and will extinguish in the correct area of fire, and these do work quickly.
www.firetrace.co.uk
 
I need to replace the halon extinguishers in a 435 Princess. ).

Have they lost pressure, or are you changing them because they are deemed illegal ? ( but still very much more effective than anything else available). If the latter, bear in mind that the military are still allowed to use them; just as they are still allowed to use tin based antifouling. Why is that? Because they are the most effective! There must be an opportunity for "dry powder" stickers to affix to Halon extinguishers!

Graham
 
I would definately take a look at Sea-Fire, they are the leading replacement for older Halon systems and use the clean agent FM200 waterless system. It is available from hand held portable extinguishers to fully automatic plumbed systems.

http://www.sea-fire.com/

Good luck with the changeover.

I recently decided to upgrade my Seafire remote monitors (one at each helm) to the newer waterproof type.
The wireing was a challenge and so I contacted Malcolm at Seafire UK.
His support was second to none - I was able to talk directly to his engineer who helped me resolve and retest the system afterwards.

Excellent service - give them a call.
 
.... another vote for Sea-Fire .. good product and as mentioned TOP people to deal with - nothing too much trouble. I also replaced a Halon system in a 14m3 engine room, with a Sea-Fire cylinder and I am very pleased with the result.

Here's hoping we never have to use them ..... !
 
I still have two halon handhelds aboard, but changed my two? engine room halons to one much larger FM2000 one, good price and again hope I never have to use them.
I will keep my halons.
By the way, when I removed the halons from the engine room, I found one empty! and I had checked it not six months before! Other one was fine, disposed of it through the marina.
 
When we replaced the engine room halons on our 435, we used the Fire Pro aerosol system with the incendiary fuse. The main reason for the choice was that with the generator, Eberspacher etc, space was so tight there was no room correctly to install most other types. So far, we haven't needed it, luckily.
 
Many thanks for all the advice, this gives me a few more people to talk to before making a decision. The main reason for the change is not just that they are illegal, but it seems the insurance is also invalid if they are not changed.
 
what ever you fit you probably wont save the boat - go for time to get off rather than recovery. I sold my last boat full of various fire extinguishers etc. The next owner had an "accident" - it burnt to the water line in 15 mins. Put your money in fire/ smoke detection and liferafts - just get off asap.
 
I replaced halon with Seafire.

You must shut down engines and fans.

Mine is auto and manual. Ie if i dont notice it can go off automaticaly ( it needs to be seriously hot) or if i know I have a fire I can set it off manualy.
 
PCUK

The extinguisher may or may not stop engines.

If its powder ingines will need a rebuild.

Any extinguisher if a large part of the extinguishant is consumed by the engine it probably wont put out the fire.

If the fire is caused by diesel being pumped out of a cracked injector pipe you are adding more fuel.
 
Firepro

I went for firepro to replace my halon, the good thing about firepro it is much lighter in weight and compact compared to FM200, CO2, Powder etc. I saved quite a few kilos and still have more coverage than my old halon set-up. It has a fuse wire that goes across the engine to the canister to ensure it catches the fire early, it is also I believe won't damage your engine (when running). There is an alarm auto system to go with the Firepro, I didn't have that installed at the time as it was in development (5years ago). Lastly there is no expiry date with the system, so no replacing the unit after five years etc.

Have a look this:

http://www.firepro.info/whatisfirepro.php

Hope that helps.

One last thing, they also provide small cartridges (size of a small flare) with fuse to fit in small places, I have one fitted in the gas locker.
 
If its powder ingines will need a rebuild.

Genuine question: Is the above a fact or is it one of those stories that gets repeated so often it is quoted as fact?

I understand that dry powder ingested into an engine will not do it any good.

My point is though, that on most engines the air filter should surely stop the powder reaching the engine. It is, after all, what they are there for.

I would imagine at worst the air filter will block and the engine would stop through lack of air.

Does anyone have any real life examples of dry powder wrecking an engine and if so how did it get past the air filter?
 
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