Engine removal

I agree. If it comes down to trying to decide whether to take the 15mm or the 17mm then it's not going to end well. (y)

Especially if #9 is right and the nuts are 22mm ?

The advice to leave the feet on the engine instead is good though, as it will probably let the OP slide it forward instead of having to lift straight up and indeed lower accurately back down. Only reason not to is possibly if they’re lag screws into encapsulated bearers and the condition of the material is dubious, in which case leaving that joint well alone might be prudent.

But if he’s leaving the feet on the engine, I can’t imagine how the OP expects anyone to know what size of bolt might have been used on his particular old boat. And, unless he’s taking his tools on his racing pushbike and wants to minimise weight, why he needs to know in advance anyway. Just take the socket-set down, a roll of spanners in case access is tricky, and maybe a big AJ just in case, and see what fits.

Pete
 
Especially if #9 is right and the nuts are 22mm ?
Indeed, and there doesn't seem to be any agreement between the makers of things and the makers of toolkits about what sizes above 19mm are likely. Below that there seems to be broad agreement on ... 10, 11, 12, 13, 14. 15, maybe 16, 17, never 18, 19 but above that I still regularly have to check and buy.
 
Thats where the big AJ comes in ?

(In fact my Clarke socket set has all those sizes, and my spanner roll has 22 and 24 at the top end.)

Pete
 
Indeed, and there doesn't seem to be any agreement between the makers of things and the makers of toolkits about what sizes above 19mm are likely. Below that there seems to be broad agreement on ... 10, 11, 12, 13, 14. 15, maybe 16, 17, never 18, 19 but above that I still regularly have to check and buy.
You make a good point. Over the years I have collected a set of ring spanners from 6mm to 34mm in every single mm size between those two .... and I have used every single one at least once, although some I have used only once!

Richard
 
You make a good point. Over the years I have collected a set of ring spanners from 6mm to 34mm in every single mm size between those two .... and I have used every single one at least once, although some I have used only once!
Coo. I recently had to buy a 32mm ring spanner to adjust a gate. I also have a collection of BFO sockets for front hubs on cars ...
 
Indeed, and there doesn't seem to be any agreement between the makers of things and the makers of toolkits about what sizes above 19mm are likely. Below that there seems to be broad agreement on ... 10, 11, 12, 13, 14. 15, maybe 16, 17, never 18, 19 but above that I still regularly have to check and buy.

ISTR 18mm fits a Whitworth size, don't ask me which one at this time of night. 21mm is another one - fits 7/16"W, I think.
 
All spanner and sockets between 7 and 27 just in case someones done something strange!

Sockets are very useful as is a pry bar to shuffle the engine forward or back

You may want a source of heat (propane torch) hot air gun if you don't have one can work, and some penetrating fluid if you come across a stock bolt. (I guess you will have a feel already for how rusty things are) sometimes it all comes apart like a breeze sometimes one bolt takes hours!

Sockets also useful as are a couple of differently sized AJ spanners.

Everything should be metric on the yanmar.

It's not a difficult job, in is the same just backwards, lining it up just takes some patience allow all day if you haven't done it before I would say, it can be a frustrating experience. Concentrate in the vertical plane first height and angle then gently persuade the engine into place and line all the mounts up in the horizontal.

Best to take photos but you might well decide now is the time to tidy up!

Good luck
 
When moving heavy kit in confined spaces, a multi-part block and tackle or a small ratchet strap or two can be very useful in taking the strain or preventing a mechanical lump from shifting unexpectedly, especially if you are working on your own..

A bundle of old cloth can be useful to prevent sensitive engine parts (pipes, levers, etc) from banging into hard parts of the boat structure

Is the engine fitted with a lifting point or two at the top end ?
 
Only owning Japanese cars/vans (plus a Beta and Tohatsu on the French boat) means I need every metric spanner between 6mm and 32mm - inc. the even numbers - and I still don’t have anything that’ll fit the crank pulley bolt!

At least the various imperials I’ve collected over the years rarely get used - until I come across a rogue fastener from the 12 years the boat spent in the States!
 
When moving heavy kit in confined spaces, a multi-part block and tackle or a small ratchet strap or two can be very useful in taking the strain or preventing a mechanical lump from shifting unexpectedly, especially if you are working on your own..

A bundle of old cloth can be useful to prevent sensitive engine parts (pipes, levers, etc) from banging into hard parts of the boat structure

Is the engine fitted with a lifting point or two at the top end ?
When I took my Bukh engine and gearbox out I lifted it onto a skate board on a plank and rolled it into the saloon. The saloon floor and locker tops were lined with carpet tiles and cardboard.
 
I agree. If it comes down to trying to decide whether to take the 15mm or the 17mm then it's not going to end well. (y)

Richard
Yes my socket set and spanners are scattered over the work station and in my many tool bags. I spent most of my life looking for things. So rather than spend hours going through bags tables drawers I thought I’d ask you what spanner or socket size for the mountings. Not rocket science but trying to save what little time I have left on this planet with you fellow earthlings. I guess I will have to fill up the pickup with every tool I have - just in case Richard is on his fault
finding mission.
 
Yes my socket set and spanners are scattered over the work station and in my many tool bags. I spent most of my life looking for things. So rather than spend hours going through bags tables drawers I thought I’d ask you what spanner or socket size for the mountings. Not rocket science but trying to save what little time I have left on this planet with you fellow earthlings. I guess I will have to fill up the pickup with every tool I have - just in case Richard is on his fault
finding mission.
That is, without doubt, the only sensible course of action. If you try to take only the specific spanners and sockets that you hope you will need, I guarantee that you end up kicking yourself as the size you leave behind will be the one you need. Ring spanners and sockets up to 24mm plus a large adjustable should cover it.

I really was only trying to be helpful.

Richard
 
Easy job. Disconnect everything (mounts from beds rather than engine from mounts) probably leave the gearbox on, slide forward if necessary, Use a tackle from the boom (suitably braced) and lift. Not heavy and could be done singlehanded but extra hands useful.

I removed an old Stuart Turner and replaced it with a Beta 10 in my previous boat (Invicta26) single handed using the boom as Tranona suggests, my only comment on Tranona's advice is that he doesn't mention the excruciating back ache that seems to accompany any major engine work.
 
Hi digger, go for it. You will learn as you go, it is really quite simple to undo the engine, the slightly more difficult bit is getting it out of the boat. We used a length of 2x4 and two guys to get my engine out ( Volvo 2002) it weighed around 70k I think, we also used the same method to lift a Volvo md2b which was a lot heavier. Good luck you will do fine.
 
Top