Engine removal

[Caraway]

A good point. I have tried to eliminate glycol brake fluid from my life: the Herald has silicone in it and the DS uses LHM hydraulic oil. As did the 2CV for its braking system, which seemed like a Very Good Thing.

A little warning.

Unlike glycol based DOT 3,4 and 5.1 fluids, DOT 5 silicone brake fluid will not absorb water from the atmosphere or act like a paint remover. Silicone has very high dry and wet boiling points. It is also more compressible and can absorb more air than a conventional brake fluid.
DOT 5 does have its applications. If you own an extremely rare car that has expensive or original paint, DOT 5 is the fluid for you because it will not eat away the paint if spilled.
But, if you use DOT 5, you are almost required to bleed the brakes before you go for a spin. Why? DOT 5 is lighter than water. Any moisture will pool at the lowest point which is typically the calipers or wheel cylinders. Many classic cars have been lost after the owner decided to shake loose the cobwebs before bleeding the brakes.

 

[RichardS]

A little warning.

I suspect that most of us are familiar with the pros and cons of glycol and silicone. However, the warning given is somewhat overstated.

Richard

 

[AntarcticPilot]

Somewhere I still have a 44mm socket (3/4" drive) for undoing front hubs on a 2CV. Which are done up to 260 ft-lb, as I recall and need even more grunt to undo them.

And somewhere I have a 50-odd mm socket for the wheel hub on a VW camper van! These days it would only be useful if I needed a blunt instrument....

 

[JumbleDuck]

I have a complete 3/4 inch driver socket set including ratchet handle, extension bar, and sockets in imperial and metric sizes. I think it goes up to 50mm.

When it's all in it's case, it's almost unliftable so I've never taken in out of the garage.

I inherited my 3/4" stuff. It's nowhere near a complete set and I tend just to buy occasional sockets when needed. I suspect that the advent of affordable impact drivers has reduced the demand for 3/4" stuff in amateur land.

 

[JumbleDuck]

And somewhere I have a 50-odd mm socket for the wheel hub on a VW camper van! These days it would only be useful if I needed a blunt instrument....

Ooh yes, I have one of these two, for precisely the same job. 52mm, I think.

 

[Tamar]

I had loads of big sockets upto 52 mm except a 30mm. And low and behold I needed a 30mm for something or other.I had to buy one as I don't like borrowing tools, It's sat in my toolbox all these years unused after its one big day until last weekend when changing the clutch on my motorcycle, I needed a 30mm for the centre bolt... He who waits ..

 

[JumbleDuck]

A little warning.

I've see doom-and-gloom warnings like that before, but I don't set much store by them, for several reason ...

(1) I filled the Herald with silicone fluid in 2010 and have only bled it once since, when I fitted new calipers in 2018. Still works fine.

(2) Where is all this water supposed to come from? One suggestion is that it diffuses in through rubber hoses, for some reason, but since mine are teflon-lined braided stainless, I've dodged that effect, if it exists.

(3) Citroën changed over to using mineral oil in the DS braking system in the late 60s. That doesn't absorb water either, and nobody ever suggests bleeding DS or 2CV brakes before each trip.

 

[davidej]

What an irritating little man you are. You know nothing about me or my successes or failures. I ask a simple question for help in this forum which I assume that’s what the forum is for. But you pop up with your judgements and snide remarks toward someone you know nothing about. This conversation between us is over. Don’t ever communicate with me again you bully.

You are brave Digger.

You are taking on one of the most opinionated peeps on the forum

 

[RichardS]

I inherited my 3/4" stuff. It's nowhere near a complete set and I tend just to buy occasional sockets when needed. I suspect that the advent of affordable impact drivers has reduced the demand for 3/4" stuff in amateur land.

I bought mine second hand from a retired HGV mechanic. I guess that when you're working on 15 litre-engined artics, everything is a bit larger.

Richard

 

[RichardS]

You are brave Digger.

You are taking on one of the most opinionated peeps on the forum

Read my post #55 and weep.

Richard

 

[Caraway]

I've see doom-and-gloom warnings like that before, but I don't set much store by them, for several reason ...

(1) I filled the Herald with silicone fluid in 2010 and have only bled it once since, when I fitted new calipers in 2018. Still works fine.

(2) Where is all this water supposed to come from? One suggestion is that it diffuses in through rubber hoses, for some reason, but since mine are teflon-lined braided stainless, I've dodged that effect, if it exists.

(3) Citroën changed over to using mineral oil in the DS braking system in the late 60s. That doesn't absorb water either, and nobody ever suggests bleeding DS or 2CV brakes before each trip.

Just reporting.
I assume that the rubber seals in brake cylinders and callipers are as crap as all the other repro stuff on the market now and suck water in as the the brakes cool down. I have never moved to silicone. I use DOT 5.1
I have only ever had brake failure due to boiling when I hammered an old Rover 218 along the roads of Holderness (straight/90/straight/90/straight/90, ad infinitum) so I don't think it's as common as people reckon.

 

[RichardS]

Just reporting.
I assume that the rubber seals in brake cylinders and callipers are as crap as all the other repro stuff on the market now and suck water in as the the brakes cool down. I have never moved to silicone. I use DOT 5.1
I have only ever had brake failure due to boiling when I hammered an old Rover 218 along the roads of Holderness (straight/90/straight/90/straight/90, ad infinitum) so I don't think it's as common as people reckon.

I only ever report stuff on here if it is stuff that I can verify from personal experience.

If you simply report stuff that you have found on the internet, you will be crucified as the combined experience on this forum exceeds any other forum in existence.

Richard

 

[Bilgediver]

What is it with this forum that people can’t stop making judgements? So patronising. I ask the question because I don’t want to drive for 90 minutes to the boat only to find out I have the wrong size spanner you snob.

Most of us would take a set of spanners plus a set of sockets and handles as more than one size needed to disconnect the shaft, Exhaust. Various pipes and electrical connections. You ask about the size for engine mounts which can vary from boat to boat even with the same engine so you have to determine this spanner size.

 

[C08]

What an irritating little man you are. You know nothing about me or my successes or failures. I ask a simple question for help in this forum which I assume that’s what the forum is for. But you pop up with your judgements and snide remarks toward someone you know nothing about. This conversation between us is over. Don’t ever communicate with me again you bully.

I think that is quite unfair, the comment was quite understandable based on the information you originally provided, l did not see any snideness only a well meant bit of advice to the effect that if you have to ask about spanner sizes maybe you should not be doing it.

 

[YankeePirate]

I've pulled&installed dozens of engines and gens in sailboats including monster Detroits and little lovely Yanmars are a piece of cake. THE MOST IMPORTANT thing is move 1/4-1/2 inch at a time so you ding/damage nothing and use multiple lifting straps and cross beams keeping a catch plank / big lever / crash plank near the bottom so if something breaks you don't drop it or smash or hole the boat and as others said prelabel wires and lines, take photos, go slow, anticipate and catch drips and stage landings, rerig, lift to next stage etc. Yanmars are gems. Treat em nice.