Engine not run for 4 years

[Porthandbuoy]

Advice please. What steps should I take before turning the engine over to see if it will start?
It's an indirect cooled 4cyl Yanmar (not sure of precise model yet). Been laid up indoors for approx 4 years.
My thoughts are, change engine & gearbox oil and coolant. Then what?

 

[JumbleDuck]

Spin it for a bit on the starter with decompressors open (or injectors out), maybe, to circulate oil before putting running loads on things?

 

[Refueler]

Decompress and TURN BY HAND ..... just in case of any corrosion in cylinders .... to check all is free before applying any 'higher speed' turning force.

Unless motor has suffered ingress of water - it should be ok.

Maybe give it a b'day ... change filters, oil and coolant ...

 

[Brentwales]

Change oil and filters, check belts, coolant, take impeller out or replace and lubricate before running. You should be able to crank the engine to circulate the new oil before starting.

 

[dankilb]

As above - at very least crank it until it has oil pressure (a look into the filler cap should show oil circulating the top end).

We’ll be in a similar situation in a month or so hopefully (first start in 5 - 7 years!), so I’ve read recent threads about long term layup of engines with concern! Ours had nothing - only under our ownership (last 2 years) has it at least been disconnected from any sources of moisture and given fresh oil! (It did at least have coolant to strength so hopefully never froze!)

I did wonder about putting some oil/diesel/injector cleaner/sea foam into the cylinders before first start. But on our Beta that would mean cracking injectors or glowplugs for the first time…. I’m not keen!

I figure that ‘recycled’ engines often sit for years in breakers/wreckers yards before going on to have successful second lives.

But interesting to hear any other tips or opinions on this. Maybe a strong dose of injector cleaner to the fuel for first start (I’d use a Jerry can anyway) to add some detergent to the mix? Doubt the lump would notice once it starts up, mind.

The biggest impact will probably be the first chance at an ‘Italian tune up’ under load!

 

[Brentwales]

Forgot to mention, bleed the fuel system to remove any air

 

[RichardS]

Check/change oil and filter as the very first step. The oil will be cold but if it looks used then change it anyway. After that, try turning the engine over by rocking it backwards and forwards using your hands on the belt/pulley or, if it doesn't move, a spanner on the crankshaft nut. Once you know that the engine will turn 45 degrees in both directions from where it has been sitting, then try the starter. Decompress/operate the fuel shut off to build up some oil pressure on the starter for 15 seconds before she actually fires.

If she doesn't fire up then you need to start fault finding but diesel engines are usually pretty reliable even when left for a long time.

Richard

 

[Neeves]

Have a fully charged battery.

Jonathan

 

[Refueler]

My present 4-107 sat for years on a pallet at back of shed after unceremoniously discarded by previous owner. I needed replacement for my 4-99 - it was offered to me by the yard to get shot of it ...

I got the on-site mechanic to turn it by hand ... all felt good ... he asked if I wanted it stripped down to check / service etc .... I said no, so he gave it a 'brush down removing the bird crap and general crud that had accumulated over it ... dropped it into the boat ... coupled it up ... pressed the t*t .... she fired up literally 3rd or 4th press ....

That was ~15+yrs ago ..... never missed a beat since.

 

[Dknightsx]

I agree with Neeves.
Have a fully charged battery.

 

[penberth3]

Check/change oil and filter as the very first step. The oil will be cold but if it looks used then change it anyway. After that, try turning the engine over by rocking it backwards and forwards.......

When I started a dormant engine I warmed it up with a fan heater aimed at the sump and block. I had mains nearby and I was aware of possible fire hazards. Also spent a long time hand-cranking to pump the oil round.

 

[webcraft]

The Beta in Fairwinds has not been run for a couple of years. Is it a good idea to change the oil before running it, even though it is cold?

(I guess I could use a hot air gun /hairdryer on the sump to heat it up??)

- W

 

[dankilb]

The Beta in Fairwinds has not been run for a couple of years. Is it a good idea to change the oil before running it, even though it is cold?

(I guess I could use a hot air gun /hairdryer on the sump to heat it up??)

- W

Now there’s a question that could spark a debate…

If the oil was fresh when stored, I’d run it up - then change it (in case it has acquired any moisture content).

If it is old/dirty already, I’d probably change it cold.

Although I doubt that running just up to temp a few times on ‘bad’ oil could do much harm. The harm is either in the storage or in prolonged/continued use.

 

[Porthandbuoy]

Some good tips there, thanks.
A fully charged battery is a given as new ones will be required. I'd also use a jerrycan of fuel as what's in the tanks may be pretty buggy and will require polishing or discarding. Not so sure about using a hot air gun or fan heater to warm the oil up, it's a big lump to heat up, but I'll bear it in mind.

 

[JumbleDuck]

If it is old/dirty already, I’d probably change it cold.

I would warm it up and then change it, on the basis that doing so will get more out and flush out settled crud around the engine. If it's an old mucky engine I would then run it hot for a bit and change again.

Basically, though, I doubt whether anything very nasty will have happened in a mere four years. My Herald engine lay unused for ten years - I had to rebuild the distributor and carb to get it going, but I did nothing to the engine. Spun it up on the starter to built oil pressure, started and ran it. Only 1,000 mile since then but it is behaving itself fine.

 

[Slowboat35]

It's easy to overthink this. 4 years isn't a long layup at all, especially as it was indoors. There'll be nothing wrong with the oil or belts because of then time-scale and there's no reason for air to be in fuel lines. Unless the oil is really filthy and black I'd leave it be, clean the outside of the engine if necessary, check the air intake/filter is clear of debris and after ensuring, as Richard S said, 45' freedom to rotate each way by hand just fire it up. The oil will be far easier to change once its warm and you'll know you're puttting new oil into a good engine. The one thing that will need changing is the impeller so probably best do that before startup lest it shreds bits into the matrix.
And have a good battery!

 

[Blueboatman]

I never start boat engine without spinning it up on the decompressors until the oil pressure alarm goes silent ..
Then , just run it up , put it in load ( gear) and let it work for half an hour under prop load and check fluids again, change them as you wish

As you say one can overthink these things

 

[dankilb]

Agree with all the above - will be getting ours going and warmed up first and foremost, before thinking about oil, filters or anything else. Ours is not plumbed or wired so fuel/battery will be makeshift anyway.

Jumble’s suggestion to use one fill of cheap oil as a ‘flush’ - or maybe for a few hours’ work until any issues can be identified - is a good one if in proper doubt about what is/isn’t in there already (I’m sure things like that would be done with rare/classic cars, aero engines, etc.).

 

[dankilb]

Btw - I’ve always cranked our engine every few months, depending on the state of the refit chaos around it. The PO volunteered info that he’d done the same during the previous many years’ layup. That’s seems a good strategy, in light of aforementioned layup concerns discussed elsewhere. It also reassures that you won’t come to find it seized when it’s needed again.

I guess it’s too risky to crank - arguably even by hand - if one subscribes to the layup oil, rags stuffed into manifolds, etc., approach…?

 

[Refueler]

Btw - I’ve always cranked our engine every few months, depending on the state of the refit chaos around it. The PO volunteered info that he’d done the same during the previous many years’ layup. That’s seems a good strategy, in light of aforementioned layup concerns discussed elsewhere. It also reassures that you won’t come to find it seized when it’s needed again.

I guess it’s too risky to crank - arguably even by hand - if one subscribes to the layup oil, rags stuffed into manifolds, etc., approach…?

The old crank an engine was not so a problem when Petrol ..... easy to not have ignition live ..... but on a diesel - that crank can have it fire .... seen it happen ...