Dummies Guide to Seagulls

[VicS]

No viable recoil starter for that model, although Siba did make one in period it was a real heath robinson affair and not really needed.

I assumed that was a misprunt and he meant recall.

 

[ghostlymoron]

Nothing to worry about. That is just unburnt oil residue because the engine should be running on 10:1 mixture. You may find it is reduced if you get the correct needle for the carb and run it on 25:1.

I managed to persuade my '65 featherweight (somewhat of a misnomer) to run well on 20/1, it didn't like 25/1 even with the replacement needle. Tremendous saving on oil costs and also reduced pollution (Dylan please note if you're watching).

 

[VicS]

I managed to persuade my '65 featherweight (somewhat of a misnomer) to run well on 20/1, it didn't like 25/1 even with the replacement needle. Tremendous saving on oil costs and also reduced pollution (Dylan please note if you're watching).

I have converted my 1974 Featherweight to run on 25:1 by fitting the appropriate needle.

I have had to adjust the needle setting quite considerably from the " normal" position in order to get it to run well. It is now screwed down about 3 turns ( the maximum recommended) below flush with the top of the throttle valve piston. Any higher than that then it tends to fourstroke.

Engines earlier than 1968 ITYWF have smaller bearings and are generally considered to be unsuitable for 25:1 mixtures

 

[jwilson]

There may be no need for an adjusting collar. Most small dinghies are made with a transom board 15" above the waterline which is correct for your standard engine. However, many of the early inflatables such as Avons had lower transoms so we made a shorter engine (40 featherweight) with 13" shaft, but you could shorten the 40+ with the collar.

You can shorten the shaft length of a Seagull with a hacksaw - takes about 5 minutes. One of mine was shortened thus, then a couple of years later trip to a metal tube supplier to buy 3 new bits of metal lengthened it to an ultra-long shaft for a small cruiser.

 

[merc450se]

VicS has the dating correct. We ran a reconditioning service at that time and it is quite possible that your engine was originally used by a hire fleet - we had hundreds of engines on lakes and reservoirs on fishing boats etc and regularly reconditioned them for the operators. The R signifies that.

There may be no need for an adjusting collar. Most small dinghies are made with a transom board 15" above the waterline which is correct for your standard engine. However, many of the early inflatables such as Avons had lower transoms so we made a shorter engine (40 featherweight) with 13" shaft, but you could shorten the 40+ with the collar.

No viable recoil starter for that model, although Siba did make one in period it was a real heath robinson affair and not really needed.

Hi, Many thanks for the reply and the history of my seagull. Do you have any idea how long they would have hired them out for? I wonder if anyone still has a recorded of when they went on hire and come off hire and then sold.

 

[Tranona]

Hi, Many thanks for the reply and the history of my seagull. Do you have any idea how long they would have hired them out for? I wonder if anyone still has a recorded of when they went on hire and come off hire and then sold.

Lost in the mists of time! Record keeping was not a strong point in the old Seagull works, except engine numbers. A hire engine could be back for reconditioning after only one season, for example if it ended up at the bottom of a lake like the one I have. Was part of my induction to recondition it, and then I added all sorts of experimental bits to it and kept it when I left. A reconditioned engine could have parts from other engines and ended up looking like new, hence the need to put the R on the crankcase to avoid it being passed off as new.

 

[merc450se]

Lost in the mists of time! Record keeping was not a strong point in the old Seagull works, except engine numbers. A hire engine could be back for reconditioning after only one season, for example if it ended up at the bottom of a lake like the one I have. Was part of my induction to recondition it, and then I added all sorts of experimental bits to it and kept it when I left. A reconditioned engine could have parts from other engines and ended up looking like new, hence the need to put the R on the crankcase to avoid it being passed off as new.

Hi, you are so knowledgeable and great to read the history of the engine. I wonder how many owners it has had. I bet quite a few.

Anyway going to test the engine and boat out to day in the harbour.

 

[merc450se]

Hi, you are so knowledgeable and great to read the history of the engine. I wonder how many owners it has had. I bet quite a few.

Anyway going to test the engine and boat out to day in the harbour.

Hi, just to give you a update, went out in the boat yesterday, the water was quite choppy but good to get out for an hour. really please with my seagull and could not believe it did not use much fuel

 

[WayneS]

May be covered later in the thread but I do not have time to check. There are a few points to add


0.5 Make sure you have a first aid kit to hand

1 Undo the air bleed on top of the tank

2 Let the fuel out of the tank by pulling the fuel tap out

2.5 Tell everyone else to lie down in the bottom of the boat

3 Tickle the carburettor till it floods

3.5 Give those that are not lying down one last warning

4 Flip down the metal choke

5 Set throttle to halfway or a little more

6 Ensure it’s in neutral – if there is one

7 Give it a smart pull

7.5 Start first-aid on the chap that sat up and got a good whipping from the pull cord

Been there - done that ...many times

 

[ghostlymoron]

This thread just runs and runs..........just like the doughty Seagull itself.

 

[ffiill]

May be covered later in the thread but I do not have time to check. There are a few points to add


0.5 Make sure you have a first aid kit to hand

1 Undo the air bleed on top of the tank

2 Let the fuel out of the tank by pulling the fuel tap out

2.5 Tell everyone else to lie down in the bottom of the boat

3 Tickle the carburettor till it floods

3.5 Give those that are not lying down one last warning

4 Flip down the metal choke

5 Set throttle to halfway or a little more

6 Ensure it’s in neutral – if there is one

7 Give it a smart pull

7.5 Start first-aid on the chap that sat up and got a good whipping from the pull cord

Been there - done that ...many times

I have been starting mine for the past 46 years;always fires second time and I would suggest if it kicks back there is something either wrong with the way you pull it or the timing is off.
I love the smell of the 10:1 mix a bit like the old two stroke bikes and scooters.
I have sustained far more damage from recoil starters on lawn mowers and chain saws which when they fail seem to delight in trying to pull your hand into the recoil.

 

[ghostlymoron]

This thread just runs and runs..........like the doughty Seagull itself.

 

[merc450se]

May be covered later in the thread but I do not have time to check. There are a few points to add


0.5 Make sure you have a first aid kit to hand

1 Undo the air bleed on top of the tank

2 Let the fuel out of the tank by pulling the fuel tap out

2.5 Tell everyone else to lie down in the bottom of the boat

3 Tickle the carburettor till it floods

3.5 Give those that are not lying down one last warning

4 Flip down the metal choke

5 Set throttle to halfway or a little more

6 Ensure it’s in neutral – if there is one

7 Give it a smart pull

7.5 Start first-aid on the chap that sat up and got a good whipping from the pull cord

Been there - done that ...many times

ha ha ha ha very good................

 

[jimafm]

Greetings from across the pond. I'm the proud new owner of a beautiful old 40+. I intend to use it to get home when my fancy new four stroke craps out. Having spent years at sea, I believe you just can't have enough spares. That said, do I need a spare prop or just a handful of springs as I have read? I have found a Century prop (weed eater) on eBay, but don't know if it will fit a 40+. From what I read on this forum, both have the 3:1 gearbox, so I need a bit more advice from some of you crusty old 'gull lovers!

 

[deadeyedick]

It's vids like that which give Seagulls a bad reputation, first or second pull, no more than three should be the order of the day if set up correctly and starting instructions followed.
As for tickling, it's rather an unfortunate word as so often you see people pumping away on that button, just depress it and hold it there until fuel drips out.

 

[jwilson]

+1

every time - unlike the Jap I bought to replace it

Both of mine always started first pull. One was a 40+ that I bought new in mid-1960s, one a Century of unknown age. The 40+ started life as a short shaft for a sailing dinghy, three new lengths of pipe/rod converted it to a long shaft to push a small cruiser, which it sometimes did hours on end at a time, except for stops to refill tank. Then got legs cut down again to very short shaft for Avon inflatable dinghy when the next boat I bought came with the old Century. Both always ran on 10:1 cheap straight 30 motor oil. The 40+ once spent several tides underwater: on recovery washed and cleaned it, oiled it and fresh fuel and plug. Started immediately as usual, though very smokily for a few minutes because of all the extra oiling. Kept and used it years on from then.

Wouldn't use one now though: far too messy, despite current 2.5 and 3.5 Jap two-strokes being less reliable.

 

[Daydream believer]

. Don't have anyone stood within 4 or 5 feet. That cord really hurts if it hits you.

Reminds me of a really funny incident on the shore at Stone sailing club some years ago.
Dave Selby- Those that read PBO will know the name- had a rather dodgy Jack Russel ( forget the name) that was always barking & biting people. Dave got himself into the dinghy & shoved off. He pulled the started cord & the end flicked the rear end of the dog, which was standing with front paws on the bow.
The dog did not take kindly to being flicked up the rear & promptly attacked Dave who spent some time drifting down river trying to detach the dog from his elbow.
Every time Dave tried to start the Seagull the dog went for him.

 

[steve66]

You're borrowing a British Seagull to be used as an outboard? ??????
You do realise they were only designed to push water round in an old bin

 

[wombat88]

I will soon give any Seagull a run for its money, I am close to finishing my 2.5 hp (I think) Warrenjet outboard. It may start. If you are out on the water and see clouds of smoke and hear a sort of screaming/tearing sound it will be me.

 

[fisherman]

We had an Aurora Aquajet in the mid fifties, the prop faced downwards and sucked water up to be expelled through a backwards facing nozzle. Early attempt at a jet drive. it didn't work in any way, as I remember.