Dream Boat Has Osmosis, What to Do?

[The Real Flipper]

Well I'm glad to know the hull manufacturing process has improved.
Though I think osmosis will be a relevant subject to me for quite some time as my dream second and third boats are from the 80s as well.
Hallberg-Rassy 352, 38, Westerly Oceanlord, etc.
I'll be looking for a bigger heavier cruiser long before I'll be looking for a more modern faster boat.
And unless my plans of winning the lottery somehow don't work out, I'll actually have this boat quite a while ;-)

 

[The Real Flipper]

Back to the present...

I just wanted to give a quick update as it's been a while.

So I think I mentioned that part of the sale agreement was a 'major repair.'
The repair is a mast support replacement to be done by vendor agent at their on site shop.

Well, they said two weeks waiting time, and now have dragged their feet over two months in getting that repair started.

So there's a block in the bilge and the mast support is bolted onto it.
I scraped rust off of it in places that was almost a centimeter thick! I stopped scraping as I never reached pure metal and I only wanted to go so far.

I was told that hatch and cockpit leaks (that I mentioned before on my fix it list) caused the bilge to fill with water, and it sat a few years before going up for sale.

Some here have said keep the bilge dry to prevent osmosis.
So I'm considering that maybe this standing water is what caused the osmosis in a boat that otherwise made it over 40 years with no osmosis dramas.

So anyway, I'm wondering now if other damage was done.
For example I noticed the coupling (don't know the proper term) from transmission to prop shaft looks pretty rusted.
And I'm wondering if this is related.
I also wonder if the engine got in the water. Which would probably be a deal killer.

Now this is where it gets fun.
A week ago they put a few coats of primocon on the opened osmosis spots, and put the boat in the water.
And took it right back out, saying it was sinking.
Lovely.
Water coming in the 'prop shaft seal' which I think means the cutlass bearing?
So then I wonder why that seal is failing, because wouldn't this be replaced with the new engine in 2019?

Also I worry about the keel bolts being underwater so long, even though surveyor said they are stainless steel and fine.
But then he didn't find the osmosis either...

So now vendor is supposed to provide the boat in the water, with the mast support repaired, for final inspector survey (arranged by me) before final commitment to buy.
I negotiated this.
But I don't want to pay for the cutlass bearing and put more time and money into the boat now, just to have surveyor find more problems, (EG bad engine because it sat in water!)

Am I being paranoid? Should I just fix the cutlass bearing. Shop wants 500 bucks (including and extra crane haul).
They told me for sure the boat didn't have osmosis. Then I found osmosis myself.
Maybe I'm just nervous the way they are dragging their feet on the mast support work.

I've literally bought houses with less worry/drama.

 

[Biggles Wader]

Seems like a bit of a project rather than a single repair issue and then sail away. I do hope it is very cheap.

 

[The Real Flipper]

Seems like a bit of a project rather than a single repair issue and then sail away. I do hope it is very cheap.

Well it has multiple leaks, one in a forward brand new Lewmar hatch that someone tried to fix the leak by super gluing the rubber seal to the bottom frame, sealing it permanently shut... and not fixing the leak.

The navigation equipment is not connected so I only hope connecting it will be enough.

The water tank hose is clear plastic and black from fungus so the whole thing will probably need some kind of flush and the hose replaced.

The gas system for the stove needs replaced, including hoses and fittings.

The teak in the cockpit is shot and needs replacement with... something.

The V-birth cushions got ruined with the moisture from the leaks.

The tiller attachment in loose.

It has sat for years so I wonder if engine/transmission oil should be replaced.

Gas system may also need flushed.

I think the refrigeration may be out.

The dodger needs a small repair.

The prop shaft seal is leaking.

A few other issues that I can't quite recall right now.

And it has osmosis.

Aside from that it's tip top! So yeah, project boat.

But it does have a new engine (if its not water logged!), new standing rigging, and good sails.

And it is very cheap for a boat this size. Which is just big enough for me to live aboard and go far.
If I can get it all working

 

[Tranona]

That is typical of a boat left on the hard leaking and bilges full of water. Of the mast compression pad is repaired properly then the rest of the bilge can be cleaned up with a couple of days hard graft. The Volvo shaft seal is easy to replace if they can get the coupling off the shaft easily - and clean it up and paint it before reinstalling. Suggest you ask them to fit the Radice version of the seal with vent tube and greasing point. Electrics and nav gear problems are again par for the course particularly on older boats where owners have added to and "improved" over the years. Insist the engine is properly re-commissioned before use. Standing unused in a damp environment is not good. Having said that I laid up a boat with a new engine for 9 years and all it needed was an oil and filter change and started first time. However the boat was under covers and well ventilated so no damp.

Warning. You will probably spend far more fixing it than the extra cost of buying a similar boat that is in commission and working! The only thing in favour of buying a neglected boat (at the right price) is that you can get it more to your liking while doing the repairs and upgrades.

 

[The Real Flipper]

That is typical of a boat left on the hard leaking and bilges full of water.

You mean the rusted mast support or the osmosis?

Of the mast compression pad is repaired properly then the rest of the bilge can be cleaned up with a couple of days hard graft. The Volvo shaft seal is easy to replace if they can get the coupling off the shaft easily - and clean it up and paint it before reinstalling. Suggest you ask them to fit the Radice version of the seal with vent tube and greasing point.

Good tip thanks I'll ask.

Insist the engine is properly re-commissioned before use.

So what should I have changed?
Engine oil, transmission oil, oil/fuel filters, flush the gas tank? Is this all required?
Anything else?

Standing unused in a damp environment is not good. Having said that I laid up a boat with a new engine for 9 years and all it needed was an oil and filter change and started first time. However the boat was under covers and well ventilated so no damp.
Warning. You will probably spend far more fixing it than the extra cost of buying a similar boat that is in commission and working! The only thing in favour of buying a neglected boat (at the right price) is that you can get it more to your liking while doing the repairs and upgrades.

Yeah I have to seriously consider if this 'good deal' really is, in the end.

 

[The Real Flipper]

Wait a minute. So is #1 in the photo the shaft seal?
Then maybe the rust on #2 was caused by the leaky shaft seal and not caused by the water leak that rusted the mast support?
They told me the shaft seal went bad on the land, but this would seem to indicate that it went bad long ago, while in the water.

 

[vic008]

All that just looks like a page out of my maintenance log. Just tackle one by one. Dipstick the engine looking for water. Certainly change oils. The only deal breaker in my book would be old teak deck. (I have painted successfully on mine with Kiwigrip) The rusty shaft coupling looks the same as mine, if anyone knows how to protect? The leaking Volvo shaft seal is a little concerning. Live with till next haulout? Shaft wear?

 

[TNLI]

All that just looks like a page out of my maintenance log. Just tackle one by one. Dipstick the engine looking for water. Certainly change oils. The only deal breaker in my book would be old teak deck. (I have painted successfully on mine with Kiwigrip) The rusty shaft coupling looks the same as mine, if anyone knows how to protect? The leaking Volvo shaft seal is a little concerning. Live with till next haulout? Shaft wear?

Wire brush it, then spray it with Waxoyl like wot we older types use. under our cars, not that I ave one at present, cos it's in Germany.
Hammerite HAM6702118 400ml Waxoyl Aerosol - Black : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Some of the rusted mounting plates need angle grinding before waxing, and I do not like shaft seals, cos if you hit one they can split. Good old fashion stuffing box with a greaser unit. A few turns after stopping the donkey will stop any drips from the stuffing box.

Don't panic about a few blisters, as Osmosis is like rust with steel, just a fact of life for a plastic poly boat, rather than a real McCoy, (West Marine are good), genuine epoxy hand laid hull. Open them up with a chisel, then use a hairdryer for as long as practical before filling with a suitable epoxy filler. Make sure it is a flexible one if possible without bankrupting yourself. Delamination is another matter, as that can write a boat off in repair cost terms.

 

[Daverw]

Wait a minute. So is #1 in the photo the shaft seal?
Then maybe the rust on #2 was caused by the leaky shaft seal and not caused by the water leak that rusted the mast support?
They told me the shaft seal went bad on the land, but this would seem to indicate that it went bad long ago, while in the water.
View attachment 138136

Yes #1 is a Volvo gland and #2 is standard flange drive coupling. As they are normal steel they will have rust, the shaft seal would go bad on land if laid up for some time and dried out and left in one position, it has lip seals inside that seal against the shaft.

 

[Frank Holden]

Back to the present...

I just wanted to give a quick update as it's been a while.

So I think I mentioned that part of the sale agreement was a 'major repair.'
The repair is a mast support replacement to be done by vendor agent at their on site shop.

Well, they said two weeks waiting time, and now have dragged their feet over two months in getting that repair started.

So there's a block in the bilge and the mast support is bolted onto it.
I scraped rust off of it in places that was almost a centimeter thick! I stopped scraping as I never reached pure metal and I only wanted to go so far.

I was told that hatch and cockpit leaks (that I mentioned before on my fix it list) caused the bilge to fill with water, and it sat a few years before going up for sale.

Some here have said keep the bilge dry to prevent osmosis.
So I'm considering that maybe this standing water is what caused the osmosis in a boat that otherwise made it over 40 years with no osmosis dramas.

So anyway, I'm wondering now if other damage was done.
For example I noticed the coupling (don't know the proper term) from transmission to prop shaft looks pretty rusted.
And I'm wondering if this is related.
I also wonder if the engine got in the water. Which would probably be a deal killer.

Now this is where it gets fun.
A week ago they put a few coats of primocon on the opened osmosis spots, and put the boat in the water.
And took it right back out, saying it was sinking.
Lovely.
Water coming in the 'prop shaft seal' which I think means the cutlass bearing?
So then I wonder why that seal is failing, because wouldn't this be replaced with the new engine in 2019?

Also I worry about the keel bolts being underwater so long, even though surveyor said they are stainless steel and fine.
But then he didn't find the osmosis either...

So now vendor is supposed to provide the boat in the water, with the mast support repaired, for final inspector survey (arranged by me) before final commitment to buy.
I negotiated this.
But I don't want to pay for the cutlass bearing and put more time and money into the boat now, just to have surveyor find more problems, (EG bad engine because it sat in water!)

Am I being paranoid? Should I just fix the cutlass bearing. Shop wants 500 bucks (including and extra crane haul).
They told me for sure the boat didn't have osmosis. Then I found osmosis myself.
Maybe I'm just nervous the way they are dragging their feet on the mast support work.

I've literally bought houses with less worry/drama.

View attachment 138121View attachment 138122View attachment 138123View attachment 138124View attachment 138125View attachment 138126View attachment 138127View attachment 138128

Let me guess - this is a Westerly - not a Sealord - maybe a Corsair?
I don't see things that have lain 'under water' for a long time if at all but simply things that have been living in a damp environment under the cabin sole.

First and last photos - the shaft seal would need changing as a matter of course, the coupling would clean up OK - the rest of the engine looks very tidy externally.

Your bilge photos ? You can see the high tide mark . I would scrap the compression post and all that goes with it and renew the lot..

My before and after photos below were taken during the half life refit in NZ in 14/15 - I had owned the boat for over twenty years at the time and the bilge had probably always been wet but never 'full'. Anything running down from your windows would have accumulated outboard of the longitudinals.

 

[The Real Flipper]

Well thanks again to everyone for all the feedback.
The community here has been super helpful!

Let me guess - this is a Westerly - not a Sealord - maybe a Corsair?
I don't see things that have lain 'under water' for a long time if at all but simply things that have been living in a damp environment under the cabin sole.

I'd love to have a Corsair or Sealord. Hopefully the budget allows for one someday ;-)
So yep, good eye. It's a Westerly, a Storm 33.
I have been reluctant to post photos or say the make and model until now because this model is relatively rare, this particular boat is well known in these parts, and I didn't want to dox the seller or jinx the deal.

Anyway it looks like by the responses most of my worries are just future work items and after the mast support is done the deal will probably go through. As long as the mast support is fixed replaced properly by the vendor which should be done early this week. I've never own something so maintenance oriented so I guess I have to get used to long lists of 'to do' items.

Next I'll deal with new engine and transmission fluids as recommended.
I guess I'll do everything including coolant as it's sat for over two years. I don't think it was ever winterized so I can only hope no damage was done from that.

First and last photos - the shaft seal would need changing as a matter of course, the coupling would clean up OK - the rest of the engine looks very tidy externally.

OK good to know the coupling rust isn't a sign of a drama, but normal wear. I'm looking for Waxoil and a wirebrush now as recommended. Maybe WD40 will have to do as Waxoil is hard to find here.

Your bilge photos ? You can see the high tide mark .

Geez I guess you're right I should have noticed that. Again good eye- thanks.
And again it looks like I was overworried or maybe just overwhelmed by this growing repair list.

I would scrap the compression post and all that goes with it and renew the lot..

I'm sending an email to the shop to verify that's what they're doing. They said 'mast support' so I just assumed that included the post.
I'll verify they're doing the compression post as well.

My before and after photos below were taken during the half life refit in NZ in 14/15 - I had owned the boat for over twenty years at the time and the bilge had probably always been wet but never 'full'. Anything running down from your windows would have accumulated outboard of the longitudinals.

Well that job sure came out clean.
Is that a special kind of paint you used?
And did you replace the mast support as well? I see the new brackets.

By the way the latest opinion from the shop techs is in agreement with yours that the mast support was not underwater, but that this is just normal aging on a metal (I assume not stainless steel, iron maybe?) part on an old boat. Which is also reassuring.

So now I'm getting jazzed about this boat again.
Even with all the labor intensive work to do, this is definitely still a dream boat for me!
I'll be sailing mostly in the Northern latitudes, and mostly solo so I wanted something 'overbuilt' and sturdy and Westerly has that reputation. Plus its bigger and roomier than the Albin Vega, Ballad, Westerly Centaur, Longbow kind of size range I was looking at. All boats I'm sure I would have been perfectly happy with by the way.

And this may sound crazy but I really fell in love with the Storm's chain plates. The way they are on both sides of these big burley bulkheads, and the way they bolt right through. First thing I thought was yeah! That's the overbuilt I'm looking for! And everything just looked and felt sturdy. Even the steps in the companion way are thick and wide and angled up at the edges to give you purchase when well heeled, and super easy to get down or up quickly. Thick grab bars, everything. I just love it. The sense of old school heavy built quality just inspires confidence.

Plus now I have a project to keep me busy through the coming winter

 

[Frank Holden]

Well thanks again to everyone for all the feedback.
The community here has been super helpful!



I'd love to have a Corsair or Sealord. Hopefully the budget allows for one someday ;-)
So yep, good eye. It's a Westerly, a Storm 33.
I have been reluctant to post photos or say the make and model until now because this model is relatively rare, this particular boat is well known in these parts, and I didn't want to dox the seller or jinx the deal.

Anyway it looks like by the responses most of my worries are just future work items and after the mast support is done the deal will probably go through. As long as the mast support is fixed replaced properly by the vendor which should be done early this week. I've never own something so maintenance oriented so I guess I have to get used to long lists of 'to do' items.

Next I'll deal with new engine and transmission fluids as recommended.
I guess I'll do everything including coolant as it's sat for over two years. I don't think it was ever winterized so I can only hope no damage was done from that.



OK good to know the coupling rust isn't a sign of a drama, but normal wear. I'm looking for Waxoil and a wirebrush now as recommended. Maybe WD40 will have to do as Waxoil is hard to find here.



Geez I guess you're right I should have noticed that. Again good eye- thanks.
And again it looks like I was overworried or maybe just overwhelmed by this growing repair list.



I'm sending an email to the shop to verify that's what they're doing. They said 'mast support' so I just assumed that included the post.
I'll verify they're doing the compression post as well.



Well that job sure came out clean.
Is that a special kind of paint you used?
And did you replace the mast support as well? I see the new brackets.

By the way the latest opinion from the shop techs is in agreement with yours that the mast support was not underwater, but that this is just normal aging on a metal (I assume not stainless steel, iron maybe?) part on an old boat. Which is also reassuring.

So now I'm getting jazzed about this boat again.
Even with all the labor intensive work to do, this is definitely still a dream boat for me!
I'll be sailing mostly in the Northern latitudes, and mostly solo so I wanted something 'overbuilt' and sturdy and Westerly has that reputation. Plus its bigger and roomier than the Albin Vega, Ballad, Westerly Centaur, Longbow kind of size range I was looking at. All boats I'm sure I would have been perfectly happy with by the way.

And this may sound crazy but I really fell in love with the Storm's chain plates. The way they are on both sides of these big burley bulkheads, and the way they bolt right through. First thing I thought was yeah! That's the overbuilt I'm looking for! And everything just looked and felt sturdy. Even the steps in the companion way are thick and wide and angled up at the edges to give you purchase when well heeled, and super easy to get down or up quickly. Thick grab bars, everything. I just love it. The sense of old school heavy built quality just inspires confidence.

Plus now I have a project to keep me busy through the coming winter

This was part of a $NZ100,000 refit - with most of the work done by the yard.
Included a couple of new sails, standing rigging, new chain plate tangs, new treadmaster, new dodger and sailcover, beefing up babystay under the deck, relining the fore cabin, assorted engine stuff, rebuilding the galley including new stove, drop and sandblast keel, tanks out and fix assorted stuff under the cabin sole, paint bilge, assorted other stuff, --- and a $30k osmo job.

No idea what they used for paint in the bilge.

Re the mast support, the mild steel foot of the compression post was a bit wasted but cleaned up OK. What you see in the pic is the four brackets glassed into the longitudinals, a great fat alloy plate sits on that and the foot of the post then secured to that.

What sort of chain plates does the Storm have. As built the early Corsairs and Sealords had a seriously flawed set up. I'm sure it was sorted by the time the Storm came along.

 

[STILL AFLOAT]

So after much searching I found a boat that I really love, at a good price due to needing a bunch of minor maintenance.
A few leaks in windows and hatches, water tank needs flush and new hoses, a lot of cleanup, etc.

The boat would normally be totally 'out of my league' budget wise. So I was VERY excited to have her.
Being a 'minor project' boat I thought I had gotten lucky.
Until I found about a couple pairs of osmosis blisters! They have been popped and did have acid inside so osmosis confirmed.

Now I'm not sure what to do. And frankly I feel gutted.
I could walk away but I've already sunk about 3 days of work and several hundred dollars into the boat, including sanding and new antifouling.
I can't afford to replace it with anything remotely close.

SO: I'm afraid to sail it this summer and repair this winter in case the osmosis gets worse.
I don't know why there are only a handful of blisters. Maybe hundreds of others are lurking?
Water meters show a dry hull except for osmosis spots which I don't get.
There are several layers of Primocon and antifouling which may be hiding more starter blisters.

Other than the osmosis the engine is recent, rigging is good, and there are some nice electronics, and overall the boat was well cared for and in good condition.
Seller doesn't want to drop price much more because the boat is already cheap for it's make and model and I can't really argue. He's right.

Anything else I could afford would be too small for a live aboard. So I'm really torn.

Suggestions and advice much appreciated.

Unfortunately, you hastily antifouled the boat, would have been better , after sanding, & opening the blisters,to let the boat stay out of the water, for a few months, treat the blisters, paint with something like Gel Shield 2000 then antifoul and off you go !
Since the initial scaremongering, in the late 70s early 80s, where unscrupulous boatyards charged fortunes over such a serious problem, that has since proven to be rubbish. Chap I know, was recently told by a boatyard, that since his 26 ft boat, had some patches with high levels of water ( N0 Blisters yet ) They wanted 8000 pounds to rip off the antifouling, then coat the hull & antifoul after a month of drying out. I would not worry, buy the boat, fix the problem , then enjoy. As far as I know, Osmosis has not yet sunk a boat.

 

[Rappey]

According to serious high mileage sailors the most important thing to have - is knowledge on how your boat is put together, plumbed, wired etc.
Doing all those jobs will be putting you on the right track ?

 

[The Real Flipper]

This was part of a $NZ100,000 refit - with most of the work done by the yard.
Included a couple of new sails, standing rigging, new chain plate tangs, new treadmaster, new dodger and sailcover, beefing up babystay under the deck, relining the fore cabin, assorted engine stuff, rebuilding the galley including new stove, drop and sandblast keel, tanks out and fix assorted stuff under the cabin sole, paint bilge, assorted other stuff, --- and a $30k osmo job.

No idea what they used for paint in the bilge.

Wow you must have loved that boat!
What kind of boat by the way? Was it worth it?

Re the mast support, the mild steel foot of the compression post was a bit wasted but cleaned up OK. What you see in the pic is the four brackets glassed into the longitudinals, a great fat alloy plate sits on that and the foot of the post then secured to that.

I was picturing something like that. In any case clean job. Looks professional.
Hope mine comes out half as well!

What sort of chain plates does the Storm have. As built the early Corsairs and Sealords had a seriously flawed set up. I'm sure it was sorted by the time the Storm came along.

Well this is another MUCH nicer example but you can see the chainplates:
(The link goes straight to 2:30 where he shows them from the front)

Hope this isn't the same flawed design that you saw. Basically they're on both sides of those bulkheads and bolted through.
And the steel at least looks thick and solid. And the bulkheads feel really solid.

A few other pics of the chainplates and bulkheads. You can't see but if you look up they go to a flat plate under the deck, and of course one is above:


Above:

Unfortunately, you hastily antifouled the boat, would have been better , after sanding, & opening the blisters,to let the boat stay out of the water, for a few months, treat the blisters, paint with something like Gel Shield 2000 then antifoul and off you go !
Since the initial scaremongering, in the late 70s early 80s, where unscrupulous boatyards charged fortunes over such a serious problem, that has since proven to be rubbish. Chap I know, was recently told by a boatyard, that since his 26 ft boat, had some patches with high levels of water ( N0 Blisters yet ) They wanted 8000 pounds to rip off the antifouling, then coat the hull & antifoul after a month of drying out. I would not worry, buy the boat, fix the problem , then enjoy. As far as I know, Osmosis has not yet sunk a boat.

Yeah, it was May and I just wanted to get some sailing in this summer. Too bad they took so long to start work on the mast support.
Anyway the osmosis gives me another project for the winter. I plan to sail until maybe October/November, maybe later. I want to get some foul weather experience before hitting The North Sea.

According to serious high mileage sailors the most important thing to have - is knowledge on how your boat is put together, plumbed, wired etc.
Doing all those jobs will be putting you on the right track ?

So it's a blessing in disguise to have such a 'work pit' haha. Yeah I have to say I'll know my boat pretty darn well by the time I'm done with everything it needs maintained and repaired, which is basically everything

 

[Frank Holden]

Wow you must have loved that boat!
What kind of boat by the way? Was it worth it?



I was picturing something like that. In any case clean job. Looks professional.
Hope mine comes out half as well!



Well this is another MUCH nicer example but you can see the chainplates:
(The link goes straight to 2:30 where he shows them from the front)

Hope this isn't the same flawed design that you saw. Basically they're on both sides of those bulkheads and bolted through.
And the steel at least looks thick and solid. And the bulkheads feel really solid.

A few other pics of the chainplates and bulkheads. You can't see but if you look up they go to a flat plate under the deck, and of course one is above:
View attachment 138379View attachment 138380View attachment 138381

Above:
View attachment 138383

View attachment 138384



Yeah, it was May and I just wanted to get some sailing in this summer. Too bad they took so long to start work on the mast support.
Anyway the osmosis gives me another project for the winter. I plan to sail until maybe October/November, maybe later. I want to get some foul weather experience before hitting The North Sea.



So it's a blessing in disguise to have such a 'work pit' haha. Yeah I have to say I'll know my boat pretty darn well by the time I'm done with everything it needs maintained and repaired, which is basically everything

She is a Westerly Sealord, the costs sort of took on a life of their own. But it was only double budget.
I had two options - sell her very cheaply and buy another that needed the same amount of work or just grin and bear it.
Yes she was worth it, I have now owned her for 28 years.

Those chain plates look fine... the above deck bit was the issue with early (all?) Sealords. They had a U-bolt sort of arrangement that was prone to failure within the deck and had led to one lost boat, one dismasting and a few almost dismastings.
I had one near miss. .
I'd replace the bolts some time or other.


Zoidberg has PMed me about the 'baby stay beefup' mentioned earlier.
This issue is probably Sealord specific but I'll mention it here for all to see.
As built the baby stay was attached under the deck to the bulkhead between forecabin and saloon. The bottom of the bulkhead? Well it wasn't really attached to anything at all.........
Problem manifested itself by lifting the whole bulkhead about a quarter inch.

Solved by fitting wire from deck to hull longitudinal.
Photo attached plus a few pics of the original job as built. Note the state of the bolts!!!!

The job done on Camomile differed from mine only in detail. Chainplates

 

[GunfleetSand]

Some will spend thousands stripping gel coat and going to town.
Others wouldn't be bothered and would grind out the blisters and epoxy fill when they get round to it.

Having spent the last three months crawling around under a boat, finding bubbles. Pop them, fill them and get back in the water. Otherwise becomes a life’s work and you never go sailing

 

[The Real Flipper]

She is a Westerly Sealord, the costs sort of took on a life of their own. But it was only double budget.
I had two options - sell her very cheaply and buy another that needed the same amount of work or just grin and bear it.
Yes she was worth it, I have now owned her for 28 years.

Yeah I figure the price of my boat is going to double by the time I'm done with her.
And if my labor is worth anything, it might not be such a 'deal' at all in the end. But I'll have a boat in good shape, and I'll know her well.

Those chain plates look fine... the above deck bit was the issue with early (all?) Sealords. They had a U-bolt sort of arrangement that was prone to failure within the deck and had led to one lost boat, one dismasting and a few almost dismastings.
I had one near miss. .
I'd replace the bolts some time or other.

My chainplates were supposedly replaced with fittings and such in 2019, but I see a few signs of minor surface rust.
Maybe it's just corrosion, because it is supposed to be stainless steel.
And wonder if that's normal and how you deal with it. WD40 I'm afraid might loosen the screws which might not be good.
I don't know...

Zoidberg has PMed me about the 'baby stay beefup' mentioned earlier.
This issue is probably Sealord specific but I'll mention it here for all to see.
As built the baby stay was attached under the deck to the bulkhead between forecabin and saloon. The bottom of the bulkhead? Well it wasn't really attached to anything at all.........
Problem manifested itself by lifting the whole bulkhead about a quarter inch.

Solved by fitting wire from deck to hull longitudinal.
Photo attached plus a few pics of the original job as built. Note the state of the bolts!!!!

The job done on Camomile differed from mine only in detail. Chainplates

Again it appears you got a good shop to do the well. It appears quite well sorted.
That addition below looks like it could lift a car.
And perhaps the ladies would disagree, but personally I think it actually looks kinda cool ;-)

 

[The Real Flipper]

Almost forgot to post the requested pics.
I didn't want to 'id' the boat til the deal was done out of respect for the other party, and so as not to 'jinx' the deal getting my hopes up too high etc.
Anyway here goes.
This is her in her more formidable years. Though technically nothing has changed. Same colors, same dodger, etc.
I hope to restore her to her former glory

Actually this is a recent photo. I keep forgetting. She looks like this, just grungier.

For me on my budget, looking at Albin Vegas and Westerly Centaurs and Longbows, and the occasional Van de Stadt Pion (any of which by the way I would have been absolutely delighted with), I was pretty excited to find this one in my- well let's say 'general' price range, though in fairness she was a bit of a stretch. Then I found the osmosis, and the rest is detailed here in these forums.

Anyway, one day, with enough blood sweat and tears she'll look like this again

As promised a while back here are (finally) some photos: