Diy standing rigging replacement

Crinan12

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Hi all

I've been quoted 2500+VAT to replace my standing rigging. That's for 7 wires plus the bottle screws. It is a 30ft yacht, masthead rig.

I was considering taking everything off the mast myself this winter and sending it away to get replacements made. Or Scotia rigging is near me so i could get them to do it.

Is this fairly straightforward? The only bit that looks like it could be tricky is the forestay.

My knowledge of rigging is limited so just trying to get an idea if a DIY job is sensible. Are there obvious pitfalls?

Obviously the yard would put the mast back on and i could then get someone to tune the rigging.

Thanks.
 
A few years back I replaced all my standing rigging on my 34ft yacht (masthead) myself, including the bottle screws. The most important issues is to get the lengths roughly correct which is easier once the mast is down and each bit of rigging is taken off. I used Jimmy Green to make the replacements for me - have a look at their website and give them a call as I found them very helpful (I hadn't done this before).
 
Years ago in Singapore I re-rigged.
I had one end professional attached. Then used Sta-Lok fittings on the lower end.
If you have the old rigging to measure off it is not so difficult.
Problems may arise with insurance though.
That boat is still sailing in SE Asia with that rigging.
40 years..
To answer you question.
My knowledge of rigging is limited so just trying to get an idea if a DIY job is sensible. Are there obvious pitfalls?

Yes, it can be a DIY job and the pitfalls that I see are how your insurance company will feel abut it.


gary
 
A few years back I replaced all my standing rigging on my 34ft yacht (masthead) myself, including the bottle screws. The most important issues is to get the lengths roughly correct which is easier once the mast is down and each bit of rigging is taken off. I used Jimmy Green to make the replacements for me - have a look at their website and give them a call as I found them very helpful (I hadn't done this before).
A few years back I replaced all my standing rigging on my 34ft yacht (masthead) myself, including the bottle screws. The most important issues is to get the lengths roughly correct which is easier once the mast is down and each bit of rigging is taken off. I used Jimmy Green to make the replacements for me - have a look at their website and give them a call as I found them very helpful (I hadn't done this before).
Thanks
Did you send your rigging to them or did you just give them measurements?
 
About 10 yrs ago, I changed the standing rigging on our previous Sadler 29 by sending all the old to Z-Spars. They remade new, and returned to me in about 2 weeks. Cost then, for 7 lengths, (fore stay, inner forestay, 2 cap shouds, 2 lowers and a back stay) in 7 mm was around £600, inc new bottle screws. I also had to pay the yard to unstep, store and restep the mast. The actual removal and refitting was very easy.
 
About 10 yrs ago, I changed the standing rigging on our previous Sadler 29 by sending all the old to Z-Spars. They remade new, and returned to me in about 2 weeks. Cost then, for 7 lengths, (fore stay, inner forestay, 2 cap shouds, 2 lowers and a back stay) in 7 mm was around £600, inc new bottle screws. I also had to pay the yard to unstep, store and restep the mast. The actual removal and refitting was very easy.
Thanks
I think I'll give it a go myself

Seems like a huge saving
 
What is your make of furler? Mine is a Furlex and you need to open the StaLok fitting at the drum to remove the forestay from the foil. Others can advise on different types of furler or check with your handbook.
It is best to send off your old rigging but make sure you lock the screw adjustments on the bottle screws so your new rigging is the correct length.
It is often recommended that you have bronze bodied bottle screws with stainless screw fittings as it is less likely to gall and seize. I have never had a problem with galling on all stainless bottle screws but it is possible.
I also went for Dyform wire (it has a new name now). This is stronger and has lower stretch. My logic was that I could have slightly lower tension for the same stretch which would be kinder to my deck stepped mast. Similar boats have had problems with the mast step sagging.
£2500 is way too much and it is a good exercise to get familiar with your rigging so that you can check it yourself.
Selden do a guide for setting up the mast and rigging. It is not difficult.
Selden guide
 
What is your make of furler? Mine is a Furlex and you need to open the StaLok fitting at the drum to remove the forestay from the foil. Others can advise on different types of furler or check with your handbook.
It is best to send off your old rigging but make sure you lock the screw adjustments on the bottle screws so your new rigging is the correct length.
It is often recommended that you have bronze bodied bottle screws with stainless screw fittings as it is less likely to gall and seize. I have never had a problem with galling on all stainless bottle screws but it is possible.
I also went for Dyform wire (it has a new name now). This is stronger and has lower stretch. My logic was that I could have slightly lower tension for the same stretch which would be kinder to my deck stepped mast. Similar boats have had problems with the mast step sagging.
£2500 is way too much and it is a good exercise to get familiar with your rigging so that you can check it yourself.
Selden do a guide for setting up the mast and rigging. It is not difficult.
Selden guide
Thanks
My furler is a profurl proeng. I think it is very old.
 
£2500 is way too much and it is a good exercise to get familiar with your rigging so that you can check it yourself.

Guess you have not done the job recently - that is the going rate for that size boat - although of course depends on whether it includes mast handling
 
Guess you have not done the job recently - that is the going rate for that size boat - although of course depends on whether it includes mast handling
I think you are correct. I replaced my rigging about 5 years ago. 26' boat with 9 wires and 8 bottle screws came to about £700. I built a gantry to remove and replace the mast but that should only cost around £250 in a yard.
I've just had a look at Jimmy Green and each stay and rigging screw is going to be about £200!
 
Guess you have not done the job recently - that is the going rate for that size boat - although of course depends on whether it includes mast handling
Seems rather steep to me. I got Barry the Rigger (Emsworth and Thornham) to do our new boat (Sadler 290, 6 lengths of 7 mm rigging) in Sept 2020. Just shy of £1400 to supply, fit and tune, plus £140 for the yard at Thornham to unstep and restep mast. All prices inc VAT.
 
Guess you have not done the job recently - that is the going rate for that size boat - although of course depends on whether it includes mast handling
I have had it done recently for a 31' yacht, and it cost £1610 and some coppers, including sorting out a Furlex system. So £2,500 is definitely over the top for a 30' yacht. That did not include getting the mast up and down, which was done by the boatyard. I can't cost that separately, but the total cost for haul out, propping, mast up and down and relaunch was £430. I will admit that the yard I use is cheap for yard services!
 
The boat winters ashore and mast will be down anyway, so i don't really see that as a cost as I'd be paying it anyway

If i could get someone to do it for £1400 I'd be happy !
 
Seems rather steep to me. I got Barry the Rigger (Emsworth and Thornham) to do our new boat (Sadler 290, 6 lengths of 7 mm rigging) in Sept 2020. Just shy of £1400 to supply, fit and tune, plus £140 for the yard at Thornham to unstep and restep mast. All prices inc VAT.
That was 2020, NOT 2022. I am doing the job now and I can tell you that is the going rate (including stepping and tuning). See also post# 12. 7 wires at £200 is £1400 to start - just making them.
 
That was 2020, NOT 2022. I am doing the job now and I can tell you that is the going rate (including stepping and tuning). See also post# 12.
Mine was June last year. It included tuning, but as I say, stepping was part of my yard fees, and not separable from the cost of haul out etc. It was done by a rigger with a very high local reputation.

PS That price included replacing all the bottle screws.
 
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