Difficult bolt to loosen.

[Mudisox]

I had one of my beta 13.5 engines overhauled some 3.5 year ago.
When it was replaced, the engineer said that the sump was different and he was unable to set up the previous lift pump connection for oil changes, and would need to be emptied using the dip stick tube and vacuum pump kit. Worked alright for the first few years, although I was aware that the amount of oil removed was always less that the other engine.[two engines on a Cat]. Difficultly in removing any oil for the last service at the beginning of the year was put down to a possible leak in the silicone tube, and stupidly abandoned [ 216 hours since last service ] .
End of season servicing after a further 223 hrs has also been almost impossible, even with long running of engine to warm up and even diluting oil with a little diesel. Oil seems thick and very black but not more than the other side. Dipstick level now 1.5cms above high.
New oil extraction pump on order BUT. ..... feeling underneath the engine I found a 22mm bolt on the underneath, front which I think should be for the drain hole. There is about 50mm beneath the sump and hull. A 22mm closed spanner just fits but it is restricted by the proximity of the engine bearers and the hull underneath. I cannot seem to apply sufficient force to crack open the bolt. I would like to a. empty the oil. b. attach right angled elbow to attach the original pump.

BUT how to apply sufficient force to the spanner?

 

[PaulRainbow]

If you can get a ring spanner on the nut, put the ring of another spanner on the open end of the 22mm spanner to increase the leverage.

 

[VicS]

If you have a torque wrench try that with a 22mm socket. It'll be longer than a ring or combination spanner and will give you a bit more leverage.
Otherwise a socket and breaker bar which you can extend with a short length of steel pipe if necessary.
With only 2"space it'll be difficult to remove the plug and catch the oil so I'd persevere with an oil extractor and remove the plug only after most of the oil has been removed.

 

[Mudisox]

Many thanks for your thoughts.
Unfortunately there is no room for an extension to the spanner, only 150mm and arc of 45 degrees. No room for a socket and torque wrench either.

 

[Poignard]

Try a ratchet ring spanner. They have 5 degree 'steps'.

Expensive though. Perhaps you could borrow one?

 

[KevinV]

What @Poignard said.
When you've got it out maybe you can get a banjo bolt with a pipe made to fit. Valve on the end and hey presto, easy changes for life.

 

[KompetentKrew]

I must say I'm surprised there's such a dearth of low-profile sockets and ratchets.

Astro Tools' "Nano" sockets look promising - their 78314 kit is available on Amazon, but you'd need the 78315 set for 22mm, and I can't find it in Europe. Will update if they reply to my email.

 

[andsarkit]

Can you put a wooden block between the end of the spanner and the engine bearers and then use a tyre lever or metal wedge to apply force to the end of the spanner.
Silly question, but you are turning clockwise looking from above?(I've been there)

 

[penberth3]

If you're very brave, and you can use a hammer GENTLY (a lot of people can't!) this might be a way of loosening your bolt - if access is difficult for a longer tool.

There is a risk of doing expensive damage, but that applies to any method if "reasonable force" hasn't worked.

 

[LittleSister]

I think in the first instance you should persist with trying to empty it via the dip-stick tube. That's a pretty standard method, and i doubt a little of the old oil left in makes much difference. (You could change it twice in short succession if the long time (but still not that many hours) since your last change bothers you. (Also, I assume you mean, when you refer to the possibly split silicone tube, you refer to whatever extraction kit you are using, rather than an internal engine part).

If you are determined to, or must, persist with trying to get the drain plug out, first check that what you are trying to extract really is a drain plug! Beta are very helpful, and I'm sure will be able to tell you straight away if you have the WOC (Works Order Card) no. (or perhaps even just serial no.) for the engine.

Then, once you've confirmed it's the drain plug, whether it would be worth disconnecting the engine mountings, shaft coupling, (?)exhaust hose, etc. and levering/wedging the engine upwards to give yourself more room to work and apply suitable tools. It might (or might not!) save time and trouble in the end.

And did I mention checking, before you get too far, whether the available space 50mm below the engine is actually enough not only to accommodate the elbow once fitted, but also to be able to screw it into the drain-hole in the first place?

Good luck!

 

[PetiteFleur]

Just a comment to the above - better to use a Banjo fitting rather than an elbow, which you can orientate to suit.

 

[Nauti Fox]

Have you tried a "go through" socket set.
This kind of thing as an example.
There are several variations, but all are low profile.

.

 

[peter gibbs]

I think in the first instance you should persist with trying to empty it via the dip-stick tube. That's a pretty standard method, and i doubt a little of the old oil left in makes much difference. (You could change it twice in short succession if the long time (but still not that many hours) since your last change bothers you. (Also, I assume you mean, when you refer to the possibly split silicone tube, you refer to whatever extraction kit you are using, rather than an internal engine part).

If you are determined to, or must, persist with trying to get the drain plug out, first check that what you are trying to extract really is a drain plug! Beta are very helpful, and I'm sure will be able to tell you straight away if you have the WOC (Works Order Card) no. (or perhaps even just serial no.) for the engine.

Then, once you've confirmed it's the drain plug, whether it would be worth disconnecting the engine mountings, shaft coupling, (?)exhaust hose, etc. and levering/wedging the engine upwards to give yourself more room to work and apply suitable tools. It might (or might not!) save time and trouble in the end.

And did I mention checking, before you get too far, whether the available space 50mm below the engine is actually enough not only to accommodate the elbow once fitted, but also to be able to screw it into the drain-hole in the first place?

Good luck!

Unless there are considerations not mentioned so far, the risks attached to forcing out a well settled plug in the sump are high. A new oil pump (Pela) will do the job with no such risk..by all means tip in some cheap new compatible oil, churn a bit / allow to drain down and extract until you're happy with oil clarity - If there's residue. Removing the plug will achieve no more cleansing than the above.

 

[Mister E]

Can you get your hand in there to get hold of the plug?
If not how will you get it back in?

 

[Humblebee]

I agree with Little Sister - speak to Beta Marine before trying to force the bolt. They're helpful folk, indeed, they set a high value on their after sales service.