Madhatter
New member
Last edited:
Débutante 21
- Thread starter Madhatter
- Start date
oldharry
Well-known member
Look carefully at the seams where the plywood sheeting is glued and screwed to the frames. In plywood boats that age the glue has often dried out and is only held by the screws. The seams need to be watertight, otherwise water penetrates the end grain meaning that although the sheet appears sound, where there is a failed seam there it will be rotting from the inside out. That means replacing the entire sheet. Not beyond DIY skills by any means, but just how many of the sheets are affected this way? A very common fault in plywood boats of the 60's as the glues they used proved to have a limited life.
Madhatter
New member
Thanks Oldharry
Madhatter
New member
Oh well I have "gorn" and bought it now !!!
So I am sure I will have lots of questions for the next few months , please be patient with me .
Drawings would be handy if anyone has some please.
Complete repaint ( after stripping back all the old ), so what is the best for a plywood hull.Do I "skin" it ?
Replacing the keel bolts (maybe re-enforcing the mounting area is required ??).
And on and on ------>
If you are interested I will post progress photos ?
Derrick
So I am sure I will have lots of questions for the next few months , please be patient with me .
Drawings would be handy if anyone has some please.
Complete repaint ( after stripping back all the old ), so what is the best for a plywood hull.Do I "skin" it ?
Replacing the keel bolts (maybe re-enforcing the mounting area is required ??).
And on and on ------>
If you are interested I will post progress photos ?
Derrick
PeteCooper
Well-known member
I would suggest contacting 'Sixpence' of these fora - often found on the East Coast Forum, he has recently refurbished a Deb.
Lakesailor
New member
You need to get it under cover and let it dry out, after stripping, for a few months.
Epoxy can regain some integrity where glue has failed and has the advantage of soaking into the wood.
I rebuilt some very feathery ply panels with epoxy coatings and it made a very respectable repair on a 50 year old Heron.
Epoxy can regain some integrity where glue has failed and has the advantage of soaking into the wood.
I rebuilt some very feathery ply panels with epoxy coatings and it made a very respectable repair on a 50 year old Heron.
oldharry
Well-known member
Oh well I have "gorn" and bought it now !!!
So I am sure I will have lots of questions for the next few months , please be patient with me .
Drawings would be handy if anyone has some please.
Complete repaint ( after stripping back all the old ), so what is the best for a plywood hull.Do I "skin" it ?
Replacing the keel bolts (maybe re-enforcing the mounting area is required ??).
And on and on ------>
If you are interested I will post progress photos ?
Derrick
Good - that will keep us going for a while
Seriously, so much of what needs doing depends on how good or bad it is now. There is no point in stripping back a sound paint coat if it is still adhering properly and in good condition, unless you need to do things to the timber underneath. Keel bolts will definitely need checking, but re-inforcing the mountings? Again only if they are weakened. If its held for 40 years, and the timber is still good, then it is probably strong enough still. You will find plenmty to do without going looking for work!
As Lakey says, the first thing to do is to get her under cover where she can dry out thoroughly. Try to glue or paint anything 'damp' and you will just be creating more problems for yourself later on. This is specially true with epoxy resins - they dont stick well to water! Forget about using polyester resins, they are strong, but polyester does not stick to wood when water gets underneath it, and it will. You then end up with ideal conditions for rampant rot!
Good luck, and show us some pics when you have time. The Deb was reckoned one of the best of the Tuckers, and several have been beautifully restored.
sarabande
Well-known member
D
have you seen these pages ?
http://debutante.0catch.com/
I have a 24 ply chine boat; similar method of construction. If you can't get a a set of plans, mine will show you many of the standard details.
have you seen these pages ?
http://debutante.0catch.com/
I have a 24 ply chine boat; similar method of construction. If you can't get a a set of plans, mine will show you many of the standard details.
Madhatter
New member
Thank you all for your replies.
I am quite pleased with my purchase (so far) as it comes with rigging mast boom and sails also included is a working seagull and a spare one for repair all at a snip of a price ,collection will cost more than the boat did .
So that cost leaves me with a reasonable budget to play with.
I am quite pleased with my purchase (so far
) as it comes with rigging mast boom and sails also included is a working seagull and a spare one for repair all at a snip of a price ,collection will cost more than the boat did .So that cost leaves me with a reasonable budget to play with.
Madhatter
New member
Thanks Tim ,had a quick look at the site but pop ups on every move "did me swede in!!"
I'll see how it goes re plans.
How was your trip?
D
oldharry
Well-known member
Re plans: Robert Tuckers son still holds all the plans, and is reportedly very helpful when people contact him about his father's boats. Probably find him through Google.
Madhatter
New member
Thanks Old harry , I have emailed them .
Can't wait to get started
Can't wait to get started
Seanick
Member
From Classic Boat Class notes...
The bilge keels are made from 3/8in mild steel plate, and can be a weak spot as they often break off. They are bolted onto longitudinal ply stringers on the hull and rely heavily on the flexibility of the ply. The older the ply gets the more brittle it becomes and it will need beefing up. As a result you'll often see a Debutante sat in a boatyard minus one of its keels.
Written by my Partner Vanessa Bird......
I rebuilt a Deb about 10-15yrs ago. Strengthening the bilge keels is easy, just a few transverse stiffners from keel to stringer, via the bilge keel mounts with longer bolts through the keels.
I double skinned the bottom of Pelican by laminating a layer of 6mm ply on top of the original 9mm (3/8") ply. Around the keels I increased that to another layer of 9mm.
Did the same to the deck too, to add a bit more youth to the structure. I epoxy sheathed the bottom up to the waterline, and the deck too.
A winged rudder improved handling under spinnaker extremis.
Two owners later, she is back in Paynes now, awaiting a new savouir. :-(
The bilge keels are made from 3/8in mild steel plate, and can be a weak spot as they often break off. They are bolted onto longitudinal ply stringers on the hull and rely heavily on the flexibility of the ply. The older the ply gets the more brittle it becomes and it will need beefing up. As a result you'll often see a Debutante sat in a boatyard minus one of its keels.
Written by my Partner Vanessa Bird......
I rebuilt a Deb about 10-15yrs ago. Strengthening the bilge keels is easy, just a few transverse stiffners from keel to stringer, via the bilge keel mounts with longer bolts through the keels.
I double skinned the bottom of Pelican by laminating a layer of 6mm ply on top of the original 9mm (3/8") ply. Around the keels I increased that to another layer of 9mm.
Did the same to the deck too, to add a bit more youth to the structure. I epoxy sheathed the bottom up to the waterline, and the deck too.
A winged rudder improved handling under spinnaker extremis.
Two owners later, she is back in Paynes now, awaiting a new savouir. :-(
Madhatter
New member
Thank you Nick
BTW nice website
BTW nice website
Madhatter
New member
Just had an email from them :
"The Debutante was built as a production vessel between 1957 and 1966, the builder Blanks & Co went bust in 66.
There are four drawings only available;
sheet 1 sailplan
sheet 2 lines plan
sheet 3 accommodation general arrangement
sheet 4 cross sections
There are no drawings of construction or ballast and other small details.
Reprints are available at £////sheet inclusive of post and packing.
In addition I have copies of the original sales brochures.
I hope you find this useful.
Tony Tucker"
Zagato
Well-known member
Taken any pics yet
Madhatter
New member
Taken any pics yet
Not yet as I have to drive a fair way to pick up and 4x4 is in having some minor repairs.
As soon as I pick her up will post the sad looking pictures
Zagato
Well-known member
The image in your head of what it will be like when finished will see you through. Projects always have a motivational dip in them the trick is not to stop ,push through the trying times. If you stop you will never start it again a bit at a time
the trick is not to stop ,push through the trying times. If you stop you will never start it again a bit at a time
Lakesailor
New member
Is that a Leisure 17?
If you still have it the trick is to keep doing a bit of sailing whilst doing your refurb as that will keep you motivated.
If it's gone, but a cheap dinghy to get your feet wet in.
If you still have it the trick is to keep doing a bit of sailing whilst doing your refurb as that will keep you motivated.
If it's gone, but a cheap dinghy to get your feet wet in.
Madhatter
New member
No its a Sunspot 15 ( I presume you mean my current boat ??) and a jolly nice little girl, but she is too but not quite big enough for cruising with SWMBO as she likes a few home comforts
I shall keep the Sunspot and I am still sailing ( most of the club members have taken out) as I want to learn to handle the bad weather.
I fell in love with the Deb (along with a few others but they were out of my price range) and felt that taking on a project boat I could customise the interior to suit .
