G
Guest
Guest
These seem to be a colossal price. Anyone found a good supplier?
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steve_cronin
N/A
What do you call a "colossal" price?
Take a look at:-
http://www.countrose.mcmail.com/
for example:-
25mm shaft X 40mm shell diam. by 100mm long is £30.19 in brass & £23.48 in phenolic resin.
Steve Cronin
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Take a look at:-
http://www.countrose.mcmail.com/
for example:-
25mm shaft X 40mm shell diam. by 100mm long is £30.19 in brass & £23.48 in phenolic resin.
Steve Cronin
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charles_reed
Active member
But you\'ll have to buy
through a trade supplier.
For the more exotic cutlesses I'd certainly recommend Countrose as producing good quality, reasonable price cutlesses.
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through a trade supplier.
For the more exotic cutlesses I'd certainly recommend Countrose as producing good quality, reasonable price cutlesses.
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G
Guest
Guest
Re: What do you call a \"colossal\" price?
Thanks Steve. The price quoted by Buhk in Denmark is over £90. Since I posted the question I found a price on Altavista cutless rubber but not as good as yours. Cheers.
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Thanks Steve. The price quoted by Buhk in Denmark is over £90. Since I posted the question I found a price on Altavista cutless rubber but not as good as yours. Cheers.
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G
Guest
Guest
Re: But you\'ll have to buy
Thanks I'll try Countrose and have also found Altavista Cutless. Cheers Thanks for coming back.
Shack
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Thanks I'll try Countrose and have also found Altavista Cutless. Cheers Thanks for coming back.
Shack
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Johnjo
New member
Re: What do you call a \"colossal\" price?
Steve
wish I knew of them sooner,
bought the Phenolic Bearing same size as you quote, From local marine engs.
Robbing sod charged me sixty four pounds for it, we all live and learn!
mike
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Steve
wish I knew of them sooner,
bought the Phenolic Bearing same size as you quote, From local marine engs.
Robbing sod charged me sixty four pounds for it, we all live and learn!
mike
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NigeCh
New member
Why not use marine grade Tufnol?
It's about £5 for 25 inner or 25.4 inner x 300 mm and about £5 for CNC milling to get the outer diameter down to the bearing diameter. Then saw off what you require - It lasts about 8 years before you have to remember where you stored the milled offcut to cut another chunk off.
I don't know of any disadvantages of Tufnol over nitrile - They are both water lubricated. Suspended grit may play a part, but I don't know. Anyway, I've used Tufnol for over 20 years and wont change to nitrile.
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It's about £5 for 25 inner or 25.4 inner x 300 mm and about £5 for CNC milling to get the outer diameter down to the bearing diameter. Then saw off what you require - It lasts about 8 years before you have to remember where you stored the milled offcut to cut another chunk off.
I don't know of any disadvantages of Tufnol over nitrile - They are both water lubricated. Suspended grit may play a part, but I don't know. Anyway, I've used Tufnol for over 20 years and wont change to nitrile.
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steve_cronin
N/A
No you don\'t...
at least I didn't eight years ago. I just rang them.
Steve
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at least I didn't eight years ago. I just rang them.
Steve
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steve_cronin
N/A
Explain....
that to me again please Nigel.
Are you saying that you don't use a conventional cutless bearing but a 300mm diameter cylinder of "Tufnol" (trademark of Countrose incidentally- or the other way about) with a 25.4mm inside diameter machined down to (say) 40mm? Isn't the inside ribbed to allow water to get freely at all the shaft?
Steve Cronin
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that to me again please Nigel.
Are you saying that you don't use a conventional cutless bearing but a 300mm diameter cylinder of "Tufnol" (trademark of Countrose incidentally- or the other way about) with a 25.4mm inside diameter machined down to (say) 40mm? Isn't the inside ribbed to allow water to get freely at all the shaft?
Steve Cronin
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Heckler
Active member
you are all babies
worrying about machining bushes, piece of p*** for any sixth form student with a lathe, never mind a CNC machine, when i was a lad we did it with scrapers and round nosed chisels!!
stu
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worrying about machining bushes, piece of p*** for any sixth form student with a lathe, never mind a CNC machine, when i was a lad we did it with scrapers and round nosed chisels!!
stu
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NigeCh
New member
Oh Steve ...
I use marine grade 25.4 mm internal diameter Tufnol tube which comes in 300 mm lengths and have to have the outer diameter milled by about 2.6 mm to suit the old imperial diameter of my stern bearing. There's no internal ribbing and each bit of Tufnol lasts about 8 years with little or no wear on the propshaft. What I've found is that there is more wear on the propshaft at the fully greased loosely tightened Teignmouth sterngland which drips at about one drip a minute when the grease runs out (4 rings of Teflon impregnated packing replaced every 2 years)
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I use marine grade 25.4 mm internal diameter Tufnol tube which comes in 300 mm lengths and have to have the outer diameter milled by about 2.6 mm to suit the old imperial diameter of my stern bearing. There's no internal ribbing and each bit of Tufnol lasts about 8 years with little or no wear on the propshaft. What I've found is that there is more wear on the propshaft at the fully greased loosely tightened Teignmouth sterngland which drips at about one drip a minute when the grease runs out (4 rings of Teflon impregnated packing replaced every 2 years)
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NigeCh
New member
Really?
What are the Health and Safety Regulations on tampering with Tufnol? ... And why?
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What are the Health and Safety Regulations on tampering with Tufnol? ... And why?
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Strathglass
New member
The best price and range I have found is at
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.asap-supplies.com>http://www.asap-supplies.com</A>
look at <font color=red>shaft bearings</font color=red> eg 25 x 40 x 100 bronze retail £18.84+vat. They do mixtures of both metric and imperial in both bronze and tufnol.
Iain
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<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.asap-supplies.com>http://www.asap-supplies.com</A>
look at <font color=red>shaft bearings</font color=red> eg 25 x 40 x 100 bronze retail £18.84+vat. They do mixtures of both metric and imperial in both bronze and tufnol.
Iain
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vyv_cox
Well-known member
Re: Explain....
On sump pumps, a duty not too dissimilar from drive shafts, most come with a cutless rubber bearing for the centre bush. These fail quite frequently, mainly because they run dry when the low level switch fails. Most operators replace them with some type of solid bushing, perhaps Tufnol, PTFE, bronze or something else. Water lubrication seems to be perfectly adequate for these materials without axial grooving.
Recently we have seen the introduction of several new materials based on wound carbon fibre that will stand running dry for a while. Maybe these will eventually reach the marine market.
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On sump pumps, a duty not too dissimilar from drive shafts, most come with a cutless rubber bearing for the centre bush. These fail quite frequently, mainly because they run dry when the low level switch fails. Most operators replace them with some type of solid bushing, perhaps Tufnol, PTFE, bronze or something else. Water lubrication seems to be perfectly adequate for these materials without axial grooving.
Recently we have seen the introduction of several new materials based on wound carbon fibre that will stand running dry for a while. Maybe these will eventually reach the marine market.
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steve_cronin
N/A
Very interesting....
...and another plus must be that you don't get the ribs of salts build-up on the shaft between the ribs (because there aren't any) which occur when the boat is in it's normal state (idle) and probably are the grestest cause of wear to the rubber ribs of a conventional cutless bearing when the motor is put into gear. How far away are your shaft anodes? I always mistrusted that advice about allowing "plenty of flow" God's truth! so long as water is present at all you've got the whole world's oceans as a heat sink!.
Now about that dripping gland: have you tried a Volvo seal? Yes I too was sceptical but having had one on the last boat for 7 years I was impressed. Almost NIL water ingress. Just needed flooding if one dried out (a few seconds job consisting of squeezing the rubber gland once, like milking a goat) but Birgitta being a fin keeler I suppose you don't dry out that often.
Steve Cronin
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...and another plus must be that you don't get the ribs of salts build-up on the shaft between the ribs (because there aren't any) which occur when the boat is in it's normal state (idle) and probably are the grestest cause of wear to the rubber ribs of a conventional cutless bearing when the motor is put into gear. How far away are your shaft anodes? I always mistrusted that advice about allowing "plenty of flow" God's truth! so long as water is present at all you've got the whole world's oceans as a heat sink!.
Now about that dripping gland: have you tried a Volvo seal? Yes I too was sceptical but having had one on the last boat for 7 years I was impressed. Almost NIL water ingress. Just needed flooding if one dried out (a few seconds job consisting of squeezing the rubber gland once, like milking a goat) but Birgitta being a fin keeler I suppose you don't dry out that often.
Steve Cronin
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