Cutless bearing replacement Malo 36

[Finbar]

Had the boat out overnight for cleaning and antifouling, and cutless bearing replacement. The bearing housing screws into the stern tube and is bolted to the shaft log. Removed the two bolts and put a stilson on the housing, tried a quarter turn, no problem. Took a look inside to find the whole stern tube was turning, so with time tight, turned it back, rebolted and left it for another day. To be clear it is the same set up as a HR, no P bracket involved.
I understand the stern tube is usually glassed in, but some builders may grease it before fitting in the grp so it can be withdrawn if necessary.
Very difficult to get a tool on the inboard end to which the stern gland is attached.

Anyone been there and done that? Not interested in general comments unless experience based. Is the stern tube sealed with polysulphide or equivalent when fitted? Is there a way of getting hold of the inboard end to unscrew the bearing housing? Can the tube and bearing housing be withdrawn as one piece and refitted ?

Have heard of major work being needed to refit damaged stern tubes, from drilling out to hacking away the deadwood grp to refit, so not looking for trouble. Dry gland so far but will check for leakage given the movement. Cutless bearing worn but still serviceable.

 

[emnick]

Had the boat out overnight for cleaning and antifouling, and cutless bearing replacement. The bearing housing screws into the stern tube and is bolted to the shaft log. Removed the two bolts and put a stilson on the housing, tried a quarter turn, no problem. Took a look inside to find the whole stern tube was turning, so with time tight, turned it back, rebolted and left it for another day. To be clear it is the same set up as a HR, no P bracket involved.
I understand the stern tube is usually glassed in, but some builders may grease it before fitting in the grp so it can be withdrawn if necessary.
Very difficult to get a tool on the inboard end to which the stern gland is attached.

Anyone been there and done that? Not interested in general comments unless experience based. Is the stern tube sealed with polysulphide or equivalent when fitted? Is there a way of getting hold of the inboard end to unscrew the bearing housing? Can the tube and bearing housing be withdrawn as one piece and refitted ?

Have heard of major work being needed to refit damaged stern tubes, from drilling out to hacking away the deadwood grp to refit, so not looking for trouble. Dry gland so far but will check for leakage given the movement. Cutless bearing worn but still serviceable.

I have been there!.

Apparently there is a tool that will slide over the prop shaft and remove the bearing. The stern tube is connected directly to the rubber hose, this in turn connects to the stern lubricator. Its best not to force this. The stern tube is glassed in and will need re sealing if removed.

I couldn't get the tool so I ended up removing the prop shaft, I then cut through the bearing with a hacksaw blade, its a slow process as you don't want to cut into the stern bracket. You will need to make at least two cuts and a small cold chisel will split it.

There is also a grub screw (alen head IIRC) that you have to withdraw.

If you buy a standard 30mm x 45mm brass bearing it wont fit!! I think the housing is imperial. I last changed ours in Grenada and I had to get the standard one turned down. It shouldn't be a real tight fit as the grub screw hold it in place.

PM me if you need any more info...... hope this helps

PS the tube does NOT unscrew on ours we are hull number 155 Malo 36

PPS you may start to get slight water ingress now as the seal is broken, just a thought.

 

[Finbar]

I have been there!.

Apparently there is a tool that will slide over the prop shaft and remove the bearing. The stern tube is connected directly to the rubber hose, this in turn connects to the stern lubricator. Its best not to force this. The stern tube is glassed in and will need re sealing if removed.

I couldn't get the tool so I ended up removing the prop shaft, I then cut through the bearing with a hacksaw blade, its a slow process as you don't want to cut into the stern bracket. You will need to make at least two cuts and a small cold chisel will split it.

There is also a grub screw (alen head IIRC) that you have to withdraw.

If you buy a standard 30mm x 45mm brass bearing it wont fit!! I think the housing is imperial. I last changed ours in Grenada and I had to get the standard one turned down. It shouldn't be a real tight fit as the grub screw hold it in place.

PM me if you need any more info...... hope this helps

PS the tube does NOT unscrew on ours we are hull number 155 Malo 36

PPS you may start to get slight water ingress now as the seal is broken, just a thought.

Many thanks for that. Apparently HR reckon you can hook the bearing out along the shaft with a stainless wire, but does not work in practice. Sounds like your method should work best. Did the prop shaft come out without fouling against the rudder? In any case the job will have to wait for next winter's lift out.
I'll be sailing tomorrow and will check for water leaking along the stern tube. The bearing I have is indeed 30mm by 45mm brass, so good to know. She is hull 136 built 1988/9

 

[DinghyMan]

From your description it sounds like its similar to the Southerly cutless/cutlass bearing setup but Southerly do leave a small amount of bearing to get hold of and their bearings also have a space on the inside that can be hooked by a tool, in theory, but are easier to remove by pulling with a slide hammer.

REPLACE CUTLESS BEARING | S/Y Bella Luna shows the HR tool

 

[emnick]

Many thanks for that. Apparently HR reckon you can hook the bearing out along the shaft with a stainless wire, but does not work in practice. Sounds like your method should work best. Did the prop shaft come out without fouling against the rudder? In any case the job will have to wait for next winter's lift out.
I'll be sailing tomorrow and will check for water leaking along the stern tube. The bearing I have is indeed 30mm by 45mm brass, so good to know. She is hull 136 built 1988/9

Yes.... the prop clears the rudder just about. I think you have to turn it (the rudder) to one side to get it out. Check the small hose hasn't been torn or dislodged when you put the grips on the stern bracket! I think you can buy a 30mm x 1 & 3/4 if I remember correctly.
Good luck with it.

 

[emnick]

From your description it sounds like its similar to the Southerly cutless/cutlass bearing setup but Southerly do leave a small amount of bearing to get hold of and their bearings also have a space on the inside that can be hooked by a tool, in theory, but are easier to remove by pulling with a slide hammer.

REPLACE CUTLESS BEARING | S/Y Bella Luna shows the HR tool

Ha ha I have left about 6mm for that very reason, I can't see that it would do any harm not being flush, it was also very tight by then so had not much choice. Thanks

 

[Finbar]

Many thanks for all the very useful information. Another job for winter when she is on the hard. Sailed today and no seepage from the stern tube, which is good news. All replies helpful and to the point, which must be a record. Batteries and anchors seem to draw the trolls!

 

[Norman_E]

Yes.... the prop clears the rudder just about. I think you have to turn it (the rudder) to one side to get it out. Check the small hose hasn't been torn or dislodged when you put the grips on the stern bracket! I think you can buy a 30mm x 1 & 3/4 if I remember correctly.
Good luck with it.

Yes, that size is available. My Jeanneau uses it. Losts of suppliers and easy to get Marine Cutlass Bearing- Brass Shell, 30mm shaft 1.75" housing Aqualube Cutless | eBay