Could the Brunton autoprop be what I need?

If you do any motor-sailing, the Bruntons Autoprop is fantastic.
I got my present boat (motor sailer deck saloon) six years ago, and she needed a new prop. I fitted the Autoprop in the first winter, and it has made a huge difference. Less drag when sailing, but the real benefit is if motor-sailing, when the speed from the engine revs is added to the speed from the sails, up to a point.
 
Oldog, on my Bavaria 38 when we had the old 2 blade prop fitted we burnt about 2.5 - 2.75 litres per hour to keep a steady 5.5knots. The engine was going at about 2,250 - 2,500 rpm. With the Brunton fitted we burn just under 2 litres per hour with the engine at 1,800 rpm. Hope that helps a little.
Duncan, thanks a lot: first concrete evidence (at least I couldn't find any before) permitting a cost conscious decision. You saved about 20% (up to 25%) on fuel at cruising speed.. Of course - not apple-to-apple comparison (as you had only 2 blades before), but still very interesting figure.

And, Norman, I, too, have a motorsailer (Fisher 34) - so count a lot on your opinion; thanks
 
Rather than Bruntons have a look at Steel Developments - not auto pitching but adjustable pitch

Hey, Cliff, I had a look at that adjustable pitch prop: their Autostream, right?
Couldn't find a clue about the price..
Do you say that such prop should be at least as effective (as autopitch), and in some cases better (under an experienced operator of course)?

A thought/question: prop walk sometimes helps, sometimes has a very negative effect when handling a boat at close quarters; it seems possible with adjustable pitch to make the prop walk to help you in any case (providing you can control the pitch up to negative figures - as you should because SD say you can turn blades 180% for revers)
Some explanation if not clear: having RH screw your boat turns to starboard on twopence, but to turn her to port is quite a task, right? But having the controllable pitch you can actually work your prop as a LH screw if you wish!
Am I right?
And if I (very likely) am: one can save enormously on putting bow-thruster idea aside..
 
For what its worth I fitted a Flexofold 3 blader last winter. It has given a major improvement in sailing performance and as far as I can tell no reduction in motoring or motorsailing performance. The autoprop would certainly have given better results for motorsialing BUT the Flexofold works extremely well when mooring (both forward and reverse). I mean that I can slow down or speed up easily and in a controlled maner without excess prop walk. If, like me, you find half the stress in sailing is mooring in tight spots I would recommend you consider the Flexofold. The drawback of the Autoprop for mooring is that is gives substantial drive even at low revs which may not be what you want if you a gentle moorer rather than a slam it in quick one.
 
I had never in the past though of buying a fancy and expensive propeller because I mainly either do cruising (with family) or just a little of bit of sailing around the bay during weekends. My only plan was to replace my 2-blade fixed propeller with a 3-blade fixed (during the next lift out which was initially planned for last November but now postponed for October this year!), mainly to get rid of some annoying vibrations (this is a different story).
Nevertheless, I have lately started thinking how I could make my passages last less (yes, it’s the trip not the destination that counts but when you have two kids aboard anxious to arrive priorities change…). Living in the Med I do a lot of motor sailing especially during those long passages of 80 - 160 miles non-stop. For a 36ft boat at an average speed (let’s ignore sails, head winds and nasty Med short waves for the moment) of around 6 knots and motoring at 2400rpm (Volvo Penta MD2030) this means around 13-27 hours. Quite long. And if you add now some chop/waves facing the bow, even if sails are up (and I do use them in every single possibility; the joy of having a furling main sail) some more hours are sometimes added. Buying a bigger, faster boat is not allowed even in my dreams for the next 150 years. Running the engine harder is a possibility but I would like to avoid due to less comfort, higher noise, more vibration and higher consumption (not very convenient when you have a 75lt diesel tank). So, could the autoprop offer me what I need? Could it increase my average speed? And how much (to justify the cost)? Is the autoprop good when motoring against waves/head seas (I am a bit confused there trying to understand various older posts; seems that it pitches down in those conditions and needs higher rpm).
Thanks
Having had an Autoprop for over 20 years (mine cost £883) I can confirm the following points.

1. The sailing performance improvement does not match that of most modern folding props.
2. The fouling does affect performance more than with a conventional fixed prop, but a sure way of preventing this happening is to use the boat consistently and frequently.
3. The effectiveness for motor-sailing is, IMHO, the greatest benefit of the unit, not so much for achieving increased speed but to maximise light-wind progress.
4. Fuel consumption is vastly reduced - my 3YM20 returns an average of 1.2 - 1.5 litres/hour - any attempt to justify the additional cost over a conventional prop, by fuel savings is, however, far fetched.
5. The vastly improved thrust in reverse, over a fixed or folding prop carries some risks - it takes some few revs to repitch the prop and suddenly increasing revs can pitch unwary crew off the foredeck - in the case of the shaft-clamp of the Yanmar, this can also cause the shaft to be pulled out of the clamp.

I've never regretted the purchase of my Autoprop - for me its greatest benefit has been the ability to motorsail at far more than the simple addition of sail-drive to motor drive. It has been in use in the Med for 8 years. I would be chary of claiming that cruising speeds are improved in all conditions - only those of light airs.
 
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Rather than Bruntons have a look at Steel Developments - not auto pitching but adjustable pitch

That looks interesting. I have a feathering Kiwiprop which is good but has a big drawback, the non-adjustable excessive pitch in astern. My setup (VP 2020D with MS10L-A gearbox) is higher geared astern than ahead and doesn't like it a bit. I note the Autostream has adjustable pitch astern.

More info here http://www.seahawk.com.au/images/Autostream_2010.pdf seems to be Australian not made by Steel developments at all!
 
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For what its worth I fitted a Flexofold 3 blader last winter. It has given a major improvement in sailing performance and as far as I can tell no reduction in motoring or motorsailing performance. .

What prop have you replaced? 2-blades or 3-blades fixed?
What size was the old prop and what size is the Flexofold?
Any comparison of speed vs rpm between old and new?

Thanks
 
What prop have you replaced? 2-blades or 3-blades fixed?
What size was the old prop and what size is the Flexofold?
Any comparison of speed vs rpm between old and new?

Thanks

3 Blade fixed with 3 blade folder on 3YM30 with SD20 saildrive
Dia about 1" less but increased pitch on folder (will have to dig out records for sizes)
RPM about same but can now get to max engine speed - before she stopped about 400 r.p.m short
 
I splashed out on a 2-blade autoprop this year, replacing an ancient Flexo-o-fold 2-blade folder.
Very pleased overall for the reasons that others have outlined, especially motor-sailing performance and the response in astern (this particularly was dire with the Flex-o-fold).
I too suspect that its drag when sailing is slightly more than the folder, but not that much.
 
I splashed out on a 2-blade autoprop this year, replacing an ancient Flexo-o-fold 2-blade folder.
Very pleased overall for the reasons that others have outlined, especially motor-sailing performance and the response in astern (this particularly was dire with the Flex-o-fold).
I too suspect that its drag when sailing is slightly more than the folder, but not that much.
Some tests were carried out in the Wolfson tank - the figures unpublished - but, from memory the Gori 2-blade folder and the Maxprop produced less drag than the Brunton.

What is significantly different about the Autoprop is that it is the ONLY true self-pitching prop varying it's pitch according to conditions/effort needed.
Kiwi and MAxprop are variable pitch props, very different devices.
 
Kiwi and MAxprop are variable pitch props, very different devices.

Not strictly correct. They are adjustable pitch props. You can change the angle of the blades, usually by altering the internal stops, but once you have set it the angle is fixed. Variable pitch props can have the pitch changed from full forward to full astern, usually by mechanical means. Among the most common (many years ago) wee the Watermota and the Sabb systems
 
Not strictly correct. They are adjustable pitch props. You can change the angle of the blades, usually by altering the internal stops, but once you have set it the angle is fixed. Variable pitch props can have the pitch changed from full forward to full astern, usually by mechanical means. Among the most common (many years ago) wee the Watermota and the Sabb systems

:D Nomenclature strikes! variable pitch conventionally refers to ordinary props that have blades where the pitch varies along the length of the blade. What you've described there is normally called controllable pitch.
 
Brunton autoprop

I put one on my Dufour 41, also in the Med, 3 years ago and it is brilliant. Normally when motoring i only need to do 1200 revs to achive 5.7 to 6 knots, using little fuel, no oil ( we used to use a lot) and very quiet.
If I need to get a move on, or motor into a sea, I have at least 50% more power than before with the old 2 blade prop.
You will need to service it, which is using a grease gun, and learn how to remove it each winter.
There is no issue of it not working in a sea, the pitch is automatic.
I recommend it.
 
:D Nomenclature strikes! variable pitch conventionally refers to ordinary props that have blades where the pitch varies along the length of the blade. What you've described there is normally called controllable pitch.

Controllable pitch is just another name for variable pitch which is the most commonly used term, whether for aircraft or boats. Most propellors have a varying (not variable) angle of attack along their length. As the pitch/angle of attack along the length is fixed, it can't be variable.
 
:D Nomenclature strikes! variable pitch conventionally refers to ordinary props that have blades where the pitch varies along the length of the blade. What you've described there is normally called controllable pitch.

The two terms (variable and controllable) are used interchangeably to describe props where the angle of the blades can be changed when the prop is rotating. More commonly used in aircraft than boats. Google the term for references.

Never seen variable pitch being used to describe the twist in a propeller blade.
 
H. The drawback of the Autoprop for mooring is that is gives substantial drive even at low revs which may not be what you want if you a gentle moorer rather than a slam it in quick one.[/QUOTE said:
But all you do is knock it out of gear. When you buy something as efficient as the Bruntons thats what you get, you cant have it both ways. when you first use it you find yourself doing 4 knots in tickover (exaggeration), but it is a bit alarming, so you progress slowly by knocking it in and out of gear, with a small amount of practice your speed control becomes second nature
 
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