Cost of new rigging

Rhylsailer99

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What would be an approximate cost of new rigging on a 28ft sailing boat. I have a feeling mine is very old and never been changed.possibly looking to get replaced next year sometime.
 
We've just changed the standing rigging on our 33 footer. The job also included taking the mast (keel-stepped) off the boat for an inspection and to take off about 10cm that were rotting due to water+inox mast base. 1500 Euros for materials and about another 1300 in labor. Job was done in Greece.

That being said - take this with a grain of salt. It highly depends on your rigging configuration and many other things that can ramp up the price.
 
It's not really possible to say, because there are so many variables. For example ... how many stays (I have two lower shrouds on each side, but no inner forestay)? What size of wire (I have 5mm, other boats the same size use 4mm)? What end fittings (some of them are hella expensive)? Would you fit it yourself?
 
A good starting point is to use this
jimmygreen.com/content/46-stainless-steel-wire-rigging-custom-build-instructions

Which will give you a good base price. Not necessarily the cheapest but will enable you to work through what you need. You may well find a rigger local to you who will make up new stays and supply fittings for you to replace yourself. Best to do with the mast down as it will give you the chance to check all the other bits on the mast and probably replace the wiring in the mast and running rigging at the same time. Ball park figure for doing all this, materials only £1000-1500 assuming you don't find any nasties!
 
not sure basically the 2 wires that are attached to the top of the mast and both ends of the boat and it has 3 each side 2 going to the top and 2 each side connected half way up the mast.
 
That is the standing rigging and each wire is known as a stay. You have a pretty standard masthead rig. You just need to work out diameter (likely to be 4,5 or 6mm and probably a mix), type of terminals and length. The expensive bits are the rigging screws but they may not need replacing.
 
Pretty standard. measure them roughly using a halyard for those that go to the top and you can probably get to the top of the lowers to measure those. Terminals, forks or eyes are similar in price so you can get a good estimate of cost of each wire from the Jimmy Green page.
 
I have just this week collected my new standing rigging , which I got from Jeckels sails.
My boat is 28' and gaff rigged , she has an upper and lower shroud on each side , a forestay, a gaff span and a three point wire for the throat halyard.
Total cost for these bits was £261 odd with vat.
 
not sure basically the 2 wires that are attached to the top of the mast and both ends of the boat and it has 3 each side 2 going to the top and 2 each side connected half way up the mast.
I think that if you are going to be managing a sailing boat of this size and all the complications involved with sailing, you ought to do yourself the justice of learning the standard names for these items, as well as other common sailing terms. This is not because sailing is an exclusive activity but, like all activities, it has its own set of terms and their use makes communication easier and less likely to be misunderstood. Most names are fairly self-explanatory, such as fore- and back-stay, and others nearly so, such as cap shroud. Some, such as crosstrees and spreaders are interchangeable.
 
A lot will depend on the diameter of the wires you have and the cost of turnbuckles etc. As you have a roller reefing forestay ( the front wire ) that will add to the cost and must be done correctly. I think your best bet would be to take the rigging off and take it to a reputable rigging firm to do the job for you if you are not familiar with the type of rigging you have.
I replaced mine last year - took everything off and took it to Jimmy Green who are local to me and they replaced like for like.
Once the new rigging is installed you will need to tension it correctly - again if you are not familiar with this it may be worth going to a professional rigger the first time, learn from him and you will then understand what to do next time.
 
Personally, I'd get a rigger to do the job. While it will be more expensive they will check your mast and give you all sorts of advice , I had my rigging done over the winter (first time in my ownership on that boat) and spent an hour going over the mast with the rigger. It was an education and their keen eye spotted a botch that had been done last time that I would have never picked up and could have ended with a mast in the oggin in a storm; not my idea of fun.

While getting things lined up is not a dark art they are really good at it and you can record the lengths on the bottle screws once they have finished for when you step the mast in future.

Perhaps a check with your insurance company if they will accept a DIY rigging job would be in order. I'm planning a wee trip to the Azores in 2022 and I am pretty sure my insurer would say non, if I said I had done it myself.
 
Tony Jones from Conwy did mine on a Cobra 850 12 to 15 years ago andI think he charged me about £700. That was for everything except the forestay which I had replaced a couple of years before. I didn't replace the bottlescrews, but Tony was quite happy for me to strip and clean them myself to save a bob or two. Like Quiddle I'm a very satisfied customer.
 
I DIY my standing rigging on my 33' boat a couple of years ago, got quotes from local boatyards who advised me on improvements. Cost just under £900, the mast was down so I took rigging to them for prices. Found a couple of problems on the mast which were sorted as well.
 
I did some calculations for replacement later this year, for a DIY job.
I can take the mast down myself and can take the boat (32 feet) to the marina that has a big shop that press terminals to stays.

For 8 stays from 4 to 6 mm it would be about eu 650,-- with stainless turnbuckles and eu 900.-- with bronze turnbuckles.
The length of the stay is not much of a factor, diameter is.

For this I'd have to take the say of and take it to the shop, they'd return a new one to me, ready to fit.

If you'd need to have the mast taken down and do all the other work for you, it would be a very different price.
 
I think that if you are going to be managing a sailing boat of this size and all the complications involved with sailing, you ought to do yourself the justice of learning the standard names for these items, as well as other common sailing terms. This is not because sailing is an exclusive activity but, like all activities, it has its own set of terms and their use makes communication easier and less likely to be misunderstood. Most names are fairly self-explanatory, such as fore- and back-stay, and others nearly so, such as cap shroud. Some, such as crosstrees and spreaders are interchangeable.
......and the best way to gain a lot of this background knowledge is to do a course. Google "RYA"
 
I replaced the standing rigging* on my 28ft boat about 4 years ago. (*Standing rigging = the wires or whatever that hold the mast up, and don't get adjusted all the time; as opposed to 'running rigging', which is the ropes (usually) that hoist and adjust the sails)

My standing rigging sounds the same arrangement as yours: 1 wire to the top of the mast from the front of the boat (forestay), 1 from the back (backstay), 2 from the sides to the top of the mast (cap shrouds), and four from the sides to the root of the cross-pieces (spreaders) about half-way up the mast (lowers, or lower shrouds). My rigging is 5mm diameter. Both the wires and the tensioning fittings (turnbuckles or rigging screws) were changed.

It cost £790 + VAT (= £950 total), but that was probably expensive at the time because I wasn't in a position to shop around, and the the boatyard organised it and commissioned an outside rigging firm to do it, so doubtless they both got a cut.

In the past I've done it myself on other boats, which is usually cheaper, but I wouldn't recommend this to you until you are a bit more familiar with it all. I agree with a previous poster that a rigger can be very worthwhile, especially for someone unfamiliar with rigging and its issues. They will make sure that all the fittings are appropriate (the old ones you copy may not be!), spot any serious problems, and, if you ask them, set up the tension of the rigging correctly (they will typically leave it to the owner to make final adjustments to their taste).
 
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