Corribee

Given that your going to be on a pontoon with shorepower I would use a small oil filled electric heater on board for all heating. Our 700w unit heated a 31 foot boat when we had ice on the deck. It's clean and quick to heat when you come back during the winter evenings, stowes away and drys the boat out, because condensation will be a problem during the winter.

Might also be worth looking at a small two ring electric hob. Used one whilst rebuilding my kitchen and found it very useful and quite inexpensive. Anyone can be uncomfortable but to make a success of this you need to be warm, have lights and feel comfortable rather than feeling you are in survival mode.

A good cockpit canopy or bimmini would also be high on the list as the cockpit then becomes an extra room.

Pete
 
Hi Nathan,
Well. I actually have lived on a Corribee for a couple of years. Cheapest accommodation I have ever experienced..Heating and cooking notwithstanding,the marina bills are going to dwarf any sum that you might wish to save or put towards a decent cooker and other stuff...You dont say whether yours is a twinkeeler or in what part of the uk you are going to be based, but there are certainly far more interesting options than dropping 2-4k annually for being alongside a floating pontoon,in my opinion...if you ask around on the waterfront.

To answer your specific question. Mine came with an Optimus primus 2 burner paraffin stove that was a delight and with a flowerpot inverted on top AND THE HATCH CRACKED OPEN 2 INCHES dry warmth was not a problem. These do come up at boatjumbles or on ebay at far less costr than a bulkier Taylors..I later converted to a 2 burner camping gaz cooker with the bottle on the floor ,TURNED OFF AT THE BOTTLE AFTER EACH AND EVERY USE. I am sure that is completely illegal now but was very simple and straightforward and being right there in front of you, safety and common sense were ever foremost in my mind-you can be sure that everyone and their dog on here will critisise this,but do remember that I did actually do it and live comfortably,safely and very economically on board a boat such as yours,for quite some time,both in the tropics and with wintry frosty decks,no problems...
I have never before or since experienced such a disparity between income and outgoings !
I would not bother to gimble the stove at all,fit a 2 inch bar across the front and a couple of pot clamps so that nothing can fall off and bingo,job done.
You will find that you can easily fit a 100 litre flexible water tank under the cockpit,with a fill point somewhere in the cockpit,a solar panel and or small wind generator and a couple of LED or fluorescent lights will put you independent of shorepower..
Good luck.
 
Re: Corribee / Origo Stoves and IMS / IDA

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Hi, I know you said a camping stove was out because it needs to be gimballed, but how about 1 or 2 of those flat, 1 burner camping stoves that take gas cartridges, on a gimballed shelf?
http://www.millets.co.uk/Camping/Cooking/Camp-Bistro-Stove/product/094502.aspx

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Erm, no I didn't and nor would I! I recommended an Origo spirit stove. As for paying through the nose for marinas and shorepower!! Ho-Ho! Not.
 
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Also, one last question while I'm here... She's currently sat on a driveway having a bit of a refit. I removed the rudder (Mk1 type, ply sheet in steel forks) and the ply has started to rot slightly. I've decided to use the original as a template for a new one, but can't find marine ply in my local area (I have no car and delivery from elsewhere is a fortune for a half sheet). Would it be unadvisable to use exterior grade ply and laminate it in glass?

[/ QUOTE ]Don't use exterior grade. I've been tempted to do this so often, convinced myself that epoxy paint or glass would keep it sound - it hasn't. Anyway, the cost of delivery will be less than glassing. I had Travis Perkins deliver two whole sheets of MP a little while back, £10 for 12 miles. Just how far from civilization are you?
 
Hi Nathan, just wondered if the stag 28 you mentioned was bought off ebay in Preston - or were you the one selling? Just wondered as I nearly bought it as a project but decided that probably too many people had already had a go at getting her ready for the sea!
 
I have played around with various small boat cooking and heating systems. Most have been discarded because of noise (as in tilley lamps, pressure parrafin heaters) or battery draw (Eberspacher).
The solutions have been arrived at cheaply from forumeers or off Ebay. They won't be suitable for all, but seem just about right for me on a 30 foot wooden boat on a swinging mooring.
Heating is from a home-made charcoal heater, similar to the Pansy or Bengco, although the flue is bigger at about 28mm. As well as charcoal I have burned peat and driftwood but they produce gunky tar. Charcoal briquettes are the cleanest and I bag them up in brown paper sacks to store under the bunks. The heater will keep going overnight which is a bonus on a frosty morning.
On a small boat it does not take much to get comfortably warm. If you can't buy a suitable solid fuel stove you could design one to suit, as long as the venting is worked out safely.
For cooking I have a big American built three-burner and oven alcohol stove using a pressurised supply tank. Getting used to the procedure of lighting the burners took a few goes, but I was making the process more complicated then necessary by using a propane blowtorch for pre-heating. Its not needed and does not save time.
I was interested in reading about the licencing for IMS. I don't have a licence and buy IMS (clear ethanol) in 2.5 litre cans for about £8 -ish.
 
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Just how far from civilization are you?

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The boat is near Preston Lancs. I've hunted high and low and can't find anywhere nearby that sells the stuff.
 
Cheers blueboatman! Your post has really helped me. Thank you.

Mine is a bilge keeler, and will be based in London. Unfortunately, I'm stuck on a pontoon (in London) because of work commitments... for a while. On the bright side, not having to pay the £700+ per month rent on my flat means I can save enough money over the next 6 months to finally head off into the blue next spring.

The flower pot is an interesting idea, I was thinking about making a pan shaped heatsink that would fit in the pan holders, but a flower pot is even easier. I'm more tempted by the meths burners at the moment because of price but I'm still keeping an open mind. Shore power is something I want to avoid as much as possible and do plan on going down the wind gen and solar cell route, but while I have it, I'd be a fool not to use it especially during Jan & Feb when it gets extra cold.

I'm not convinced on the gas front though, I accept there are far too many overly cautious health and safety fanatics, and the safety aspect isn't a massive concern, but fitting the bottle in my living space is.

Thanks again
 
Hi sr04,

Yes that was the one. I was selling it. I too, obviously, bought it as a project which in hindsight was probably a bit too much for me to handle, but nevertheless I was committed to doing it and threw lots of money in. Not long after though I was given a choice by work of either work from home or move to London as they were closing the Preston office. I ended up moving to London and the Stag had to go. A shame really.
Worth noting though, I was up in Preston last month and paid a visit to the boatyard. She's still there. Whoever bought her appears to have done absolutely nothing. A bloody shame for such a lovely boat.
 
Just a quick note:

I have lived on and off boats from a Pirate (17ft) to my current beast weighing in @ 15 tonnes, for 30 years. The main influence in the last few years (or months) is that Red Diesel has become questionable as the cheapest method of cooking and heating. It used to win hands down despite it's smell. If you are ashore or plug-in able, mains 240volt may beat every other choice. In the water at a mooring, is different of course.

12v Strip lighting & LED's help for light, as bulbs hammer the battery.

Choose only flat smooth WPB ply (never take it unseen) and soak it in clear preservative prior to painting or varnishing, I have boards 25 years old still looking fine varnished.

Also charging the battery from an outboard will kill a lot of connected electronic gear, due to the back EMF spikes the outboard coils create.

Best Wishes.
 
Hi Nathan

Welcome to the adventurous world of Corribee owners! I have a fin-keeled junk-rigged version. Game little boats, and you can boost the accommodation with a square-sided boom tent over the cockpit.

Had many happy times abroad, and never a problem getting a mooring in a crowded French marina. I've also built up the main hatch and topped it off with a plastic dome. OK, I look like Buzz Lightyear when I use it, but you can stand upright!!

I also have a 15-ton, 40ft concrete monster, bought for about the same price as the Corri, but when it comes to mooring, running costs etc - and the sheer fun of sailing - I think the Corri wins hands down.

Another Corri owner is Roger Taylor, who swears by his single-burner alcohol stove. He is currently half-way to the Azores in his bilge-keeler Ming Ming. (You can see some pix of her on the Jester website further down the list of YBW forums. Click on the welcome posting, second down.)

Incidentally, to make the boat warmer in winter and cooler in summer, you can stuff insulation under the headliner. I'll be using Thinsulate from 3M - the stuff in ski-suits.

As for the rudder, I made mine a bit bigger. Some have skegs in front which also supports them at the base. The junk-rigged Corri stalls when going about, but a longer ( and now slightly deeper) rudder really helped.

Glass a good quality ply over with rovings and epoxy, rather than GRP. It will stick better, and is more water resistant.

Totally agree with neutron star, by the way. Lots of good advice there - especially about battery's.

Good luck! The hardest part of owning a Corri is giving them up. Dame Ellen still has hers....!!!
 
Re: Corribee- origo cooker

Just a comment about unventilated heaters. I have an old bulkhead mounted Catalytic heater (probably uses asbetos too!). I cannot use it for long with the hatches shut - but for 10-20 mins it will bring the temp well up so I can get ready for bed. If I want it longer I have the hatch back or the top wash board out and keep it on 1/2 heat or less. I always turn it off when I go to bed - as I suspect I would not wake up if I left it on. But, for short periods & with sensible ventilation it is fine. You know when you are overdoing it, you will start to feel weary - step outside for a breath of fresh air & turn it off when you return!

I guess the greatest danger is reading with a glass in your hand & relaxing to sleep. As I said above Turn it off as soon as you have ANY doubts.
 
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