Converting to slab reefing.

[graham]

Converting our Centaur from roller to slab reefing. I like the look of the Barton kit with a short track with 2 cheek blocks on it.

But it may be cheaper / better to just rivet on a pair of cheek blocks directly to the boom?

Once set up you never need to alter the position so the track becomes pointless?
Couple of questions. How far aft of the reefing clew cringle should the block be?

I am aware of the need to isolate dissimilar metals.

What size line should I use on a 26 ft cruising yacht ? I am guessing 6 or 8 mm braid on braid.

I have a few weeks to think about it and buy the bits.

Cheers

 

[garymalmgren]

But it may be cheaper / better to just rivet on a pair of cheek blocks directly to the boom?
Yes. A block , a fairlead (to stop tangle) and a horn cleat for either side of the boom is the tried and true system.

How far aft of the reefing clew cringle should the block be?
Too far aft and you will have good outhaul tension but too much cringle to boom height. This can be compensated by lashing the cringle down to the boom after the reef is in. Too much is 5 inches or more. (This is what I have.)
Not enough and you will have the cringle down on the boom, but the sail outhaul not tight enough.
Not enough is the length from the mast to the cringle or less.

So I would fit at the mast to cringle distance plus 3 inches.

What size line should I use on a 26 ft cruising yacht ? I am guessing 6 or 8 mm braid on braid.
These are lines that you will have to handle, so 6mm will certainly be strong enough, you will not get a good grip.
You might get away with 8 mm, but I would go for 10 mm.
If you fit blocks that can handle 10mm you can size down, but if you fit smaller blocks you will be stuck with that diameter limit.
You can mount everything and then experiment with lines that you have a board and choose what feels right.

I reef then tie the cringle down to the boom (at my leisure) and then let off the reef line an inch or so.
I just don't like to see how much tension there is on the reef cringle when it is pulled out really tight.
It has to be stretching my new sails. Others will have differing reefing procedures.

gary

 

[Tranona]

Advantage of having blocks on track is that you can adjust the position of the block to tension the foot when reefed. If you have fixed blocks you are stuck with a fixed position which will almost certainly be sub optimal. On an in boom reefing system the sheaves are at the end of the boom so you have adjustment via the reefing line. Ot is the tack end that is more critical, getting the forward turning blocks right as close to the gooseneck as possible and then from the cringle down to the block at the mast base (if you are taking it back to the cockpit). Either 6 or 8mm - latter better for handling but has more friction.

 

[wallacebob]

Fitted Barton system to my Pageant ( bought 2nd H) , easy to fit and setup. As said, allows for tensioning, and fine tuning.

 

[graham]

Fitted Barton system to my Pageant ( bought 2nd H) , easy to fit and setup. As said, allows for tensioning, and fine tuning.

How did you attach it? I was thinking of monel rivets.

 

[dunedin]

Do you have a loose footed mainsail or one with a rope threaded in the boom. Loose footed is easier, as can tie the fixed ends of the reef lines round the boom which is strongest and most flexible.
Most modern boats the boom pulleys are at the very end of the boom, and the adjustment of angles is done by moving the fixed ends tied round the boom.
One factor for me is minimising head injuries. If can avoid blocks and other sharp fittings on the side of the boom then much better - if absolutely essential to have blocks on side of boom, try to position where least likely to meet a head in the event of a careless crew/helm and accidental gybe.

 

[Minerva]

Do you have a loose footed mainsail or one with a rope threaded in the boom. Loose footed is easier, as can tie the fixed ends of the reef lines round the boom which is strongest and most flexible.
Most modern boats the boom pulleys are at the very end of the boom, and the adjustment of angles is done by moving the fixed ends tied round the boom.
One factor for me is minimising head injuries. If can avoid blocks and other sharp fittings on the side of the boom then much better - if absolutely essential to have blocks on side of boom, try to position where least likely to meet a head in the event of a careless crew/helm and accidental gybe.

was going to write exactly this. Blocks far aft on boom and tails made off around boom. Even if you have a bold rope foot, I’d be inclined to put eyes in the sail shelf to still tie off round boom.

 

[andsarkit]

I have a lacing eye on one side of the boom with the block on the opposite side so that they both lead back from the cringle at 45 deg. Another lacing eye along the boom to stop the line drooping and a metal clam cleat with integral fairlead near the gooseneck to secure the line. Repeat on the other side of the boom for the second reef. The luff cringle goes on a reefing hook at the gooseneck. There is very little friction and I have found a 6mm line is adequate for strength and comfortable to pull (26ft boat with 100sq ft main).
It is neat, cheap and efficient and I am probably committed to reefing at the mast as I also need to adjust the halyard, kicker and boom downhaul during reefing so leading lines back is a non starter without changing the mast.

 

[Channel Sailor]

Loose foot, blocks well aft, tie off around boom. Wot they said above.

i find I can adjust the foot length of the reefed sail using tie off around the boom method, instead of being stuck with turning block in slightly the wrong place when trying to flatten the sail in strong winds. If you later change the mainsail then fixed reef points and turning blocks could be in the wrong place, been there.

I also try to avoid nasty sticky out objects on the boom to reduce head injury risk.

 

[wallacebob]

I followed Barton instructions: drilled and tapped to suit the 5mm csk (?) screws. The fittings must be flush on track to allow adjustment.

 

[William_H]

Plus one for reducing hardware on the side of the boom. So yes a track on the side is totally un necessary. As said out haul tension is important so er on the side of closer to boom end. You can run a strap of rope around boom and clew eyelet to get pull down to boom if necessary. In fac this is desirable as the attachment of clew to boom is going to take all of down load from main sheet. So while 6mm might be ok for rope size it may wear through at eyelet with load.
On my little boat with large main sail I use 6mm rope. Both clew and tack lines return to winches at the back of cabin. (as does the main halyard. ) I can pull a reef in while hard on the wind (just off close hauled using jib for drive) I drop the main halyard about half way so boom droops down. I don't use topping lift at all. I then haul the tack reefing line to pull sail down track and take up slack. Hopefully another crew has started winching in the clew reefing line lifting boom. Drop main halyard down to aprox. position then tighten up tack then clew reefing lines. Both very tight. Finally nip up the main halyard to get luff tension. All done quickly from cockpit without losing much distance to windward.
So small winches to handle reefing lines. I fitted a turning block in the top of the boom a bit aft of where the reef clew arrives at boom. A saddle next to is accepts the free end of reefing line. Likewise I have saddles on side of mast below gooseneck and as far forward as possible. 45 degrees to luff and foot. So tack reefing eyelet is pulled right in to mast track and right down to boom. Leaves no aft load on sail bolt rope. Yes I do not use slugs. Makes reefing easy. Ties around the bunt of the sail are optional and often not tied in unless we reef before departure.
I set up only one reef. Suits my kind of local sailing. (racing) However I have been known to fit the second reef before departure. This is pretty crude but effective. A 6mm line runs through tack eyelet around the mast then around the boom to pull eyelet close to mast and boom. similar line around clew reefing eyelet around boom then back to eyelet and out to full main (released) outhaul. I can then use (full) outhaul to tension 2nd reef outhaul. Not so convenient to put in while sailing of course. First reef is deep so usually enough.
Yes as said a clew reefing line from boom end to eyelet then down to tie around boom seems to work ok tough I doubt you can get real outhaul tension this way. You need real outhaul tension in a reef to flatten main sail for strong winds. ol'will

 

[geem]

Do you have a loose footed mainsail or one with a rope threaded in the boom. Loose footed is easier, as can tie the fixed ends of the reef lines round the boom which is strongest and most flexible.
Most modern boats the boom pulleys are at the very end of the boom, and the adjustment of angles is done by moving the fixed ends tied round the boom.
One factor for me is minimising head injuries. If can avoid blocks and other sharp fittings on the side of the boom then much better - if absolutely essential to have blocks on side of boom, try to position where least likely to meet a head in the event of a careless crew/helm and accidental gybe.

We installed a bumper to the end of our boom 10 years ago. It's saved a few head bashings. It's 10mm closed cell foam in an acrylic canvas wrap that fits over the end of the boom. It works very well. My third reef was added by me as the original set up only had 2 reefs. I used a rope clutch mounted on the boom by the mast, a lewmar foot block on the side of the boom atvthe outer end and added a ring below the third reef clew on the side of the boom. At the mast there is a low friction ring to lead the reefing line onto the reefing winch. It works very efficiently. All done with 10mm dyneema

 

[garymalmgren]

Just saw a photo of Golden Globe sailor Jeremy Bagshaws reef main clew.
Mine sets like that and I though something was amiss.
Now I can live with it.
DAY 179: Kirsten and Abhilash fighting for Golden Globe lead and two new Cape Horners!

 

[Minerva]

Just saw a photo of Golden Globe sailor Jeremy Bagshaws reef main clew.
Mine sets like that and I though something was amiss.
Now I can live with it.
DAY 179: Kirsten and Abhilash fighting for Golden Globe lead and two new Cape Horners!
View attachment 152404

thats an interesting use of a soft shackle and low friction ring in the reef clew - I wonder how much benefit that offers over just using the pressed ring in the sail?

 

[garymalmgren]

Sharp eyes Minerva.
Will try that one myself.
Like the strengthening tape at the cringle too.

gary

 

[William_H]

Re nice photo of Oleanna. However IMHO that is a horrible reef and sheet set up. At least for me the boom should be right at the reefing eyelet to get boom as high as possible to avert head contact. To me main sheet arrangement is not ideal as it does not pull the boom down enough to flatten the main sail. It looks like he is relying on the boom vang to do that but vang is not very powerful. I prefer one main sheet with wide traveller track for main sheet. But then my emphasis has always been on windward performance and he would be mostly down wind sailing. My little boat with reef in. I reef a lot. Presumably Jeremy is satisfied. ol'will the main sheet