Cleat style pros and cons

Keith-i

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I'm looking at renewing my cleats as part of a major deck refurbishment project and wonder what the advantages and disadvantages of the various cleat styles are. I currently have somehting similar to the first style but now is the opportunity to change. They are ona 32ft semi-displacement motor boat.
 

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ltcom

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I'm looking at renewing my cleats as part of a major deck refurbishment project and wonder what the advantages and disadvantages of the various cleat styles are. I currently have somehting similar to the first style but now is the opportunity to change. They are ona 32ft semi-displacement motor boat.
I don't like number 1...... not enough space and not as smooth edges as other two . I like number 2...... lots of space and easy to bolt down. Number 3 is better than number 1 but not as good as number 2. Only my opinion.
 

MystyBlue2

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All my cleats are number 2.

There strong and can get plenty rope aroumd them. Not a bad word to.say about them tbh
 

Rappey

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All so the same job ? Changing style may mean 4 completely new holes to bolt them down ?
Large ,10-12" style 1 are often aluminium. As we discovered on my friends boat, they can oxidise and expand on the underside and concave/crush the deck underneath
 
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pvb

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Large ,10-12" style 1 are often aluminium. As we discovered on my friends boat, they can oxidise and expand on the underside and concave/crush the deck underneath

That happened on my old Hallberg-Rassy. I fitted the replacements on sealant on top of a thin sheet of nitrile rubber. No problems afterwards.
 

Keith-i

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I don't like number 1...... not enough space and not as smooth edges as other two .
Interesting observation thanks. My current ones are like No1 and they can get a bit tight once you have a couple of lines around them.

Changing style may mean 4 completely new holes to bolt them down ?
The deck surgery required means this won't be a problem :(

As we discovered on my friends boat, they can oxidise and expand on the underside and concave/crush the deck underneath
I would rather s/s for its durability and less likely corrosion.

Not on your list but solid base cleats only require two fixing holes.
I actually prefer the idea of 4 fixing points to spread the load, especially if there is any lateral pull on the cleats.
 

Rappey

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One great thing is that Stainless cleats today are a fraction of the price they used to be so lots more choice of style without the high cost.
 

Caraway

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Not on your list but solid base cleats only require two fixing holes.
Is it my eyes? Isn't #3 a two-hole base. In fact, does it bolt through from beneath into tapped holes in the base? Not ideal.

At 120 Euros a pop they seem a bit dear.
 
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Rappey

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Maybe no3 has large studs protruding from the base but they didn't want to ruin the pic ?
 

Caraway

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Fraid not.
This 4Dek Deck Clamp is made from AISI 316 mirror polished stainless steel and measures 310mm in length. The stainless steel clamp is mounted from the bottom so there are no visible fixings! Use two size M16 screws for fixing.
Centre line fixings will create a rocking effect which would be more crushing to the deck than four-hole fixings.

Cornamusa Inox 4Dek (310mm de largo)
 

Neeves

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Your cleats are only as good as the surface to which they are attached - and the backing plate. You need to make or have made or come with the cleat - decent backing plates. In addition you might also want to add a pad of extra glass.

Your No 3 is going to be more difficult to correctly align the holes for the bolts or machine screws.

Jonathan
 

Bajansailor

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My current ones are like No1 and they can get a bit tight once you have a couple of lines around them.

Apart from getting a bit tight, is there anything fundamentally wrong with these existing cleats?
I presume that they are alloy, and probably looking a bit scuffed now?

What make of boat are they fitted to? You mention a semi-displacement hull - if it is something like a Nelson, then bigger (than usual) cleats would not really look out of place on a hull like this (or even bollards - have you considered these?), especially as the current ones get a bit tight.
 

Keith-i

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Your cleats are only as good as the surface to which they are attached - and the backing plate.

Part of the deck refurb is to replace rotten balsa core. At all fixing points I will be using solid pads of grp for strength and also to prevent future rot if there should ever be a leak. [/QUOTE]
Apart from getting a bit tight, is there anything fundamentally wrong with these existing cleats?
I presume that they are alloy, and probably looking a bit scuffed now?

What make of boat are they fitted to? You mention a semi-displacement hull - if it is something like a Nelson, then bigger (than usual) cleats would not really look out of place on a hull like this (or even bollards - have you considered these?), especially as the current ones get a bit tight.
Indeed, the existing cleats are looking a bit shabby and after almost 35 years I reckon the screws will be seized into them. They are on a Channel Island 32 (similar to Mitchell or Aqua-Star) so slightly oversized would be fine. I'm not keen on bollards though.
 
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